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Chrysler T&C EGR Valve

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Comments

  • jdcar2jdcar2 Posts: 3
    Thank you every one for all the useful info. I feel as though I am ready to try and replace my egr valve, one question though. (History is that my engine light went on and my mechanic said code stated egr valve needed replacement, cost to me approx. 250$ for parts and labor). I was told from a third party that replacing the egr valve with a new one will not turn off my engine light and that I will need to take van to dealer and pay them to reset code to turn off engine light . Is this correct. I thought brain module would resend signal and reset itself automatically. Excuse my terminology as I am not sure of proper terms. Any reply would be greatly appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,282
    The code will clear after about 40 cycles without a recurrence, or you can use a code reader (these cost between $80 and $150, depending on what you get) to pull the set codes and reset. One or two uses of this device (rather than taking to a dealer) and it will pay for itself. ;)
  • thanks you very much for the info. I appreciate your time very very much.
    any thoughts on dealer egr valve versus auto zone parts store egr valve. Auto Zone is 55$ cheaper but I know some people think dealer parts function better. With weather warming up slightly here in the northeast I am gearing up to trying to replace this thing now that you have empowered me with the knowledge LOL
    jd
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,282
    Often times these parts have the same manufacturer and the only difference in price is the source. I purchased a new fuel filter for my van in August and spent $250 on it; I could get the same part off amazon.com (of all places) for almost $100 less. Unfortunately, I just did not have the time (or so I thought) at the time to wait on the ordered part. I got a whopping one week of use out of the van before an electrical gremlin destroyed its reliability. *sigh* Live and learn.... or just live. :D
  • jdcar2jdcar2 Posts: 3
    Thank you everyone for your help. Dealer part was only about 10$ more expensive than some of the auto part store prices. Paid $118 for dealer egr valve with option code xzz, which I was told my particular van has that option code. Some of the auto part stores did not specify that, so I played it safe with dealer part made for my van. Did job in about 1/2 an hour. Hardest part was that bottom bolt, which needed to be taken out with needle nose pliers after it was loosened. Engine light is out now, and I just got my inspection sticker and passed all emissions tests. I'm good to go!!
    Thanks again!!
  • mrmom31mrmom31 Posts: 1
    At 57K my `06 T&C with 3.8 ltr began hesitating intermittantly. Then flashed the check engine light. Checked with pocket scanner & got code P0404 and determined it was the EGR Control Circuit Range/Performance. Surfed between here and Dodge Forum and decided to buy the part from NAPA for $79 - but they only had one option (?) Followed the install instrux in this thread, and was done in :20 mins. Also used a 1/4" universal socket adapter and a piece of 3/4" black iron pipe to gain leverage on the 1/4" drive. Cleared code manually with scanner. Will report back if problem continues and/or CE light returns. Thanks for the advice and the $avings.
  • Anyone have a problem with power door locks that stopped working?
  • This looks like a great site for repair help. I am getting code PO404. I think I have located the EGR valve on my 3.8L . It is on the drivers side rear bank near the spark plug wire distribution connections. I don't want to break anything but I can't get the electrical connector off. I did slide the red lock tab to the right. The connector should just pull off...is that correct ? or are there more locking devices on this connector ?
  • I called a garage after my "check engine soon" light came on. I asked them what is meant and they said we will charge you $130 for a diagnostic and then the cost of parts and repair. I went to autozone and they tested it for free and got code PO 400 which is for EGR valve. They said they has one and it was $120 and I could put it in myself with littke mechanical skills. I called garage and asked them hypothetically if it was a EGR valve what would I be looking at turn key. He said $130 for diagnostic, $229 for ERG and $80 for installation. Total $439.00. I went back to auto zone with my tools and bought the part, put it in, and even had them confirm that the diaphram was bad. They reset my engine light and I put 100 miles on and then got my inspection sticker. I saved $319 and, as I had a free oil change coupon from the first garage, got my oil done for free. He noticed the new inspection sticker and the new EGR and asked why I didn't have them do it. I explained that I did it myself and saved $319 and thanked him for the free oil change!!! He was pissed...imagine that! :D :) :)
  • How do you reset the light? I never did swap mine out. It supposedly doesn't effect much (I haven't noticed) it's been about 3 years since it came on. I should probably swap it out though.
  • Full procedure how to reset oil service light Chrysler Town and Country. If you like to reset any maintenance oil light after an oil change. Or reset check engine light, airbag light, inspection key or insp errors when maint reqd, for Chrysler cars. Or any warning light for service reminder which appears on the display.

    http://resetservicelight.com/reset-oil-service-light-chrysler-town-and-country/

    Info pictures whit the steps
  • joef123joef123 Posts: 2
    I have the exact same issue as post #30 on this- as Dsurek on this same vehicle -how do you disconnect the connetor from the EGR valve- I also slid the red tab to the right to disengage, but the connector still seems quite stuck - anyone have a suggestion or a video that shows this
  • dsurekdsurek Posts: 2
    edited April 2013
    I have replaced my EGR valve myself. It is difficult to get one because it is a dealer only item ($94). Places like NAPA may have a listing but soon find they can't get it. When I slid the red tab to the right this time, it came out and the plug almost came off by itself. Leave the pipe connected to the EGR vale. Remove the screws for the pipe in the valve cover and a hold down bolt from the pipe bracket. Pull out the 3 rear plug wires and brake vacuum hose out of the area. I also disconnected the negative battery cable and put a rag over the positive. Remove the two bolts holding the EGR valve and remove the valve and pipe at the same time. Now it is easy to remove the pipe from the EGR and put it on the new EGR with a new gasket. First I spayed some cleaner through the pipe and wiped out the gunk as best i could. I put some compressed air through it to blow out any debris. Clean up the area where the new EGR will mount and install with the new metal gasket. Put the three rear plug wires #1,3,5 back on. Put the power brake vacuum hose back on. Put the connector and red tab back on. Buy or borrow a scan tool to erase the code and that's it. So far, so good, no codes coming up. It was about a 2 hour (three beer) job.
  • joef123joef123 Posts: 2
    HI Dsurek
    Thanks for the reply - I figured out the connector and I have a 2009 van - I think the EGR valve got rotated 180 in the 2009, as it is on the drivers side and I see one bolt that will be a challenge, but I think accessible with a universal joint - I also found several sources online for the 2009 EGR valve, and it was about $85 shipped to my door - I would agree - it looks like a 2-3 hour job for a Saturday afternoon - I have sprayed all the bolts with PB blaster already for it to have a few days to make the bolts easier to come off in a few days when the part arrives -

    Thanks for the reply
  • aubrickaubrick Posts: 1
    What sensors have input to controlling the EGR valve operation?
    Van missfires/surges on flat roads under high vacuum and spark advance conditions, when barely "off throttle." It's so bad, we don't drive van on flat interstate highways; only secondary hilly roads when this problem isn't noticeable.
    -Disconnected EGR valve and symptoms disappeared
    -Replaced EGR valve, solenoid, etc. with new assembly and rehooked and symptoms returned.
    -Disconnected EGR valve and symptoms disappeared
    Problem must be with something giving input to the main computer controlling the EGR valve.

    Any suggestions on a sensor or controller that could be bad?

    Thanks
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