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Hyundai Santa Fe Brake Problems

mineownmineown Posts: 4
edited September 30 in Hyundai
I have a 07 SantaFe AWD 7-passenger version.
The engine is 3.3L, I noticed a problem that almost happens every time after I start up the car and try to accellerate very slowly through 30KMs.

As soon as it hits 30KM in speed, I can feel a very small feedback from the gas pedal, I can also hear the 'click-click' sound when it happens. It feels like something is trying to be hooked up at that time. The weird thing is, this only happens only the first time I accellerate through 30KMs after I start up the car. After that, as long as the car is still running, even if I reduce the speed to 0 and try hit on gas to go beyond 30KMs (very slowly) again, it doesn't happen. So it happens only the first time I start up the car.

I took it to a hyundai service but the mechanic couldn't feel anything during a test drive. But the problem still happens almost on a daily basis, esp. for a cold start (parked overnight).

Anyone has any suggestions?
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Comments

  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,632
    Sounds like the normal ABS self test. Most ABS equipped cars run a test when first driven that often sounds like a clunk clunk that you hear and sometimes feel (my van's brake pedal shudders during the inital start). I think it's caused by the ABS pump activation. Your mechanic should have been able to diagnosis that over the phone.

    Now, if your make/model doesn't have ABS, then I don't know what to think.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • mineownmineown Posts: 4
    Thanks for your reply.
    The feedback (clunk, clunk) is very similar to what you'd feel from the brake pedal when ABS kicks in on a slippery road.

    And Yes my model does have ABS, I am pretty sure.
  • wolf62wolf62 Posts: 5
    Had the same problem with my 2007.Took it to the dealership where it was identified as the ABS pump self test at 30kph. One of four "problems" I had with my 2007 (other three:crack in console,tear in leather seat and pebble behind front brake disc). :mad:
  • mineownmineown Posts: 4
    Oh, that was a bit relieving.
    Is this a problem or simply the way it works?
  • wolf62wolf62 Posts: 5
    Simply the way it works.The dealership claims they checked two other new 2007's on the lot and they had the same noise (I originally described it as a clunk at 30kph,which I originally thought was a driveline noise).I think this issue has been discussed in earlier forums, if you want to do a search.
  • mineownmineown Posts: 4
    Thanks, did a search by ABS test and turned out quite a few posts on the same topic.
    Now I am feeling a bit better that I didn't buy a lemon.
  • I have Hyundai SF SE 3.3 automatic transmission. Brand new. It seems to me that parking break is too weak. Whenever hill is more then 35 deg. and you don't use park on your transmission (let's say you leave it on N) and use just parking break it is so weak that it will not hold car. I had small car before and park break was able to keep car stopped even on 45 deg or more with no problem. Is my parking break broke? What are yours experiences?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    I had small car before and park [brake] was able to keep car stopped even on 45 deg or more with no problem

    I'm curious. Where would that be? 45° is quite extreme. The brake would have to support about 70% of the car's weight with that grade.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • slateblueslateblue Posts: 110
    Well, why would anyone want to park their car on a hill or anyplace else with the transmission in neutral and the key in the ignition with just the parking brake applied? With a/t you can't remove the key without gear shift being in park. It's an unsafe situation even with the parking brake applied and holding the car. Rather than theorize have the dealer inspect it for problems.
  • Yes, we too have SF Limited with 3.3 and a Weak Parking Brake.
    We've TWICE asked the dealer to 'tighten it up'...it still rolls on even a gentle hill, until the Parking Pawl engages..but under heavy load, or steep slope, that is Not healthy for the transmission 'pin' that locks it in Park. In our use, we have a boat, and on the launch ramp, I assure you, you MUST use the parking brake to launch & retrieve. This brake, even when I step will all my weight to depress the pedal, it holds, but needs the assist of the parking pawl. This brake will not hold the vehicle from rolling on a gentle slope driveway. This is not my first car, all other vehicles would lock the tires and you'd drag them and flatspot them if you were silly enough to try....my point being, a parking brake should be THAT strong, to not allow any tire rotation. Anybody else have SUCCESS with the dealer on this issue????
  • rick2456rick2456 Posts: 320
    I agree about the parking brake. I have noticed however the brake tends to work when facing downhill, but not to well when facing uphill (rolling backwards). I do wish this vehicle had a parking hand brake in the middle console (like my 2007 Sonata) as I hate the foot brake concept.
  • I have a 2001 Santa Fe. I have had problems recently with the brake pedal. It usually happens when it is cold and on initial startup. The brake pedal only presses down slightly, therefore only working slightly, and can take MANY attempts to press down normally. I have had the brakes inspected and said to be fine. Tried flushing brakes and replacing fluid but problem reoccured again 2 weeks later. Has anyone else had this problem? Please advise.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    You said you had the brakes inspected. Did they inspect the brake pedal? It sounds like the problem may be there.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • cherrmancherrman Posts: 8
    I have a 2007 santa fe, with 27300 miles. The left rear caliper is sticking to the disc brakes. I called the dealer and it sounds like I will be stuck with the bill. Can anyone help me out before Friday 4/17/09?
  • cherrmancherrman Posts: 8
    I have a 2007 santa fe with 27300 miles. The rear brakes started squealing. I think the left rear caliper is sticking to the disc brake. The dealer doesn't seem to know about this problem. Brake pads are not a warranty item. Is the caliper covered? I have an appointment 0417/2009 with the dealer for them to look at it. I have found many post on other website stating this is a problem with the santa fe. I called Hyundai USA and they don't see it as a safety issue, so it probably will not be covered under warranty. Can anyone help me?
  • ineedajobineedajob Posts: 12
    27K is very low for rear brake replacement, in fact a good rule of thumb in most cars you will go through two set of front pads to every set or rear. If it’s just the left rear that needs to be replaced, it’s obviously a sticking caliper most likely as the pressure is split between the front and the rear and the left and the right so one should not have (sizable) more wear then the other. 27K would be in the normal range for the fronts. On the same note, brake jobs are relatively inexpensive to do and definitely in the do it yourself category. If you have a friend that can do it, you may be able to that route. Do NOT just do the one side, also do it in pairs Front (L&R), Rear (L&R). By the way, if it was indeed sticking, you should have noticed some strange smells from that rear caliper. The one brake job I did on a SantaFe was at about 28K (fronts) was very easy to do.
  • ineedajobineedajob Posts: 12
    You either have a bad Master Cylinder, Power brake unit or a vacuum leak. The Master Cylinder is what transforms your foot pressure to the brakes on your car. A car without a power brake unit would (appear) like the brakes are weak, when in reality you just have to press hard. The Power brake unit increases your foot pressure so you don’t have to push so hard for the brakes to engage. A good test would be this.
    Find a safe place to do this with a SLIGHT incline. Park your SantaFe and turn the engine off. Place the car in Neutral and take off the parking brake (the car should start to roll down the incline). Press the brake (it should feel normal, very little pressure like when you normally drive). Press the break maybe 10 more times and you will use up all the left over vacuum in the lines. Now, it’s VERY hard to stop. Does it feel the same as when you start the car (I would guess yes). If so, you know you have either a vacuum leak or power booster leak. Go ahead and start your car again and you’ll feel the brakes are easy to push again. You can put a vacuum gauge on the power booster and watch it over night (if possible) and see if it goes down (it will somewhat). I would guess you most likely have a bad power brake booster. Flushing will have no effect on this, nor replacing pads. It’s further up the line. Good Luck
  • cherrmancherrman Posts: 8
    I have looked at the brakes front and back and there is plenty of pad. I can't see the inside pad because of the dirt shield around the rotor. I'm trying to find if any other santa fe owners have had this trouble. I just don't want to be taken by some dumb excuse the dealer is going to tell me.
  • lemarkllemarkl Posts: 1
    cherrman,

    I had the same problem with the rear brakes at only 14K miles. They started squealing Easter week and I didn't have a chance to get them looked at til after the weekend. By that time the rear left brake had eaten into my rotor so much that I needed it replaced. I am going to call my Hyundai dealer and let them know this is BS. If you have talked to them already let me know some feedback on how it went. Good luck to the both of us with this fight.
  • cherrmancherrman Posts: 8
    I had to take a ride with the service guy, but he heard the noise. The rotor also smelled HOT so he looked at that side only. He told me it would all be replaced under Hyundai warrenty. You can do a google search under 2007 hyundai santa fe brake problems. There are lots of complaints. Try safercar.gov
    I hope I helped you.
  • mikebutkusmikebutkus Posts: 16
    My '07 with 29K and I checked both rear pads, both had plenty above the notch in the pads. Maybe the early models had problems? They have an aluminum plate that the pads ride in. So they shouldn't "stick". Most likely it was the piston not returning when pressed.
  • stovebolterstovebolter Posts: 48
    My wife's 2007 Santa Fe SE AWD has the same problem - the left (driver side) rear brake caliper has been tearing into the rotor. She started hearing the noise of the caliper rubbing at about 13-14k, we brought it in, the dealer said everything was fine. Now at 18k the damage is visible. No word yet on whether this will be a warranty issue, but I'm going to insist on it. I'll try and remember to post the results.
  • cherrmancherrman Posts: 8
    The problem is the caliper is not releasing from the rotor. It might help you to point out the blue color of the rotor, Due to excessive heat. The dealer I took it to told me all was good. I had to take him for a ride and then he tried to blame the nosie on something else. After the cailper drags for a while the rotor will have a burnt smell , point that out. Point out how much hotter that wheel is compared to the other wheels. The dealer did replace the whole cailper rotor and pads, on that side only. :)
  • stovebolterstovebolter Posts: 48
    Thanks for the reply.

    At this point, I don't think there's any question to what the problem is - looking at the rotor, you can see it's been worn quite badly, particularly in comparison to the others.

    Did the dealer/warranty cover the cost for you? Or am I looking at a big bill?

    I'm rather upset that when the car was in 6 months ago they told me that nothing was wrong, particularly if it means I have to pay for a rotor (or two), when the rotor would have been fine if they had corrected the caliper issue.
  • stovebolterstovebolter Posts: 48
    Update to my situation:

    The dealer replaced the pads on both sides of the rear, machined the rotors, and "corrected" the calipers to prevent seizing. All were covered under warranty.

    I have to admit, I was muttering some bad things about Hyundai last night, but after how quickly they responded without giving us any trouble (other than the inconvenience of being without a car for a day), I have to take it back and compliment them on a job well done.

    I hope anyone else with this same issue gets the same treatment we did, I'm quite satisfied with both Hyundai and my dealer.
  • somedai1somedai1 Posts: 416
    machined the rear rotors? that would be a mistake.
  • stovebolterstovebolter Posts: 48
    Why would that be a mistake? Provided the rotors are within service limits, of course.
  • Glad I found this thread! My wife has a 2007 Santa Fe GLS AWD with 16k miles. I smelled a burning smell when she pulled into the garage one day. Pinpointed it as coming from the rear driver's side wheel, but it went away soon after. She's now started complaining about it squealing when she's driving (after letting off the break & moving forward). Was just getting ready to take it into the dealer when I saw this thread. Hopefully it will give me some leverage to get the parts replaced under warranty.
  • mrnyjetmrnyjet Posts: 2
    my 07 santa fe started around 18k with the screetching noise. the dealer says the factory requires a caliper service as part of the 15k service. they charged $80 for the caliper service and the noise is gone. stated that they removed accumulated rust and clean and re-lube the cailper parts and hardware/shields.

    never had this problem with other hyundais i owned , either elantras or sonatas. :blush:
  • richpacrichpac Posts: 2
    Just started with the 07 Santa Fe screeching about 5 days ago and already, the rotor has been cut into on the rear driver's side wheel. I will update you with the outcome. I had my car state inspected in January at the same dealer and, prior to that, my car was fine. Now at 42k mi. I already have a brand new transmission and will see what they do about the brake problem. I loved my 03 Santa Fe and never had a single problem with it.
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