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Ford Expedition Electrical Problems

1568101114

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  • Ok...update, the code that is UDP flashing is "16", and means 'failure of Transponder to communicate with the PCM, or SKF network error...or some crap like that. Every fragment i can find on this on the internet, says that the keys have lost code, or that the transponder (transceiver in key cylinder) is dead, or that the GEM is bad. Ok..great...except, if I disconnect the battery, turn the ignition to on, drain all circuits of power, wait a few minutes, then turn it all off and reconnect the battery - hey...no PATS "THEFT" light BS...and turn the key to it starting right up. Now, it will run...good...for 2-3 minutes, then it stutters, turns off, and THEFT flashes again.

    Anyone have any idea how complex it is to pull the PCM out of the dash? I am thinking that a blow dryer on it to dry it out, and it will be fine...it is snowy and humid outside, and this all started on a bad snowstorm day...so, I am thinking that some in this post are kinda on the right track...that the PCM has been dampened by humidity or rain...and is acting squirreley...I just don't have the $1000 to play with the dealer on this truck right now!!!

    Thanks.
  • shrek57shrek57 Posts: 1
    i hv a 99 expedition and i had the same problems u did. i went from thinking it was the fuel pump to the alternator to thinking it was the tow hitch cables. u name it i thought it messed up my car. after 4 mechanics that wanted to rip me off i found a guy that told me he would take the instrument cluster and resauter 7 cables that go connected to the cluster. he said he would charge me $160 and i figured nothing else had worked so what is $160 to fix my problem. 3 days later sure enough its been a year and knock on wood it hasnt had a problem. i live in miami so if u live near by i can give u his #.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    i can give u his #

    Please don't post telephone numbers in the Forums.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Hey...thanks for your post, because you confirmed what I found on only one other post, and that is that final absolute resolution to this whole problem isn't the PCM, EEC, or the Transceiver in the key/column, but in that damn short in the cluster. Ford had a tech bulletin out on it a year after the vehicle was made.

    Funny...it had been snowing here for 3-days, right at 32-deg., 'snow-snot' all in the floorboard, snow fog all over, nasty weather...probably had 3-inches of snow up against the windshield by the air intake screen around the wipers...flat broke for the time, I pulled the battery and the PCM plug...hmmm...moisture. Ok...I pulled the PCM...and the inside of the cover seemed to be moist/damp. So, little low-temp blow-dryer, lot of WD-40 on the plug and the recepticle at the PCM...put it all back together, fire it right up...wham...no problem...then, 10-minutes later, it died. So, with no hesitation, I went to the store and bought 2-bottles of ISO-Heat (Isopropyl dryer for fuel) and put them in the tank...started it up...AGAIN...and kept foot to the pedal at 2,000-RPM for 10-minutes (it wouldn't die then)...and you could feel the engine begin to smooth out some...and it has worked perfectly since.

    By the way...the odometer on mine intermittently goes off and on while going down the road...DUE TO THE WIRE-SHORT in the instrument cluster that I am going to solder when weather warms up, now...should fix it all.

    FYI...THIS SHOULD BE THE FIRST DIAGNOSTIC DONE ON THIS SPECIFIC ISSUE...I hunted the internet for 3-days, saw a thousand posts IDENTICAL TO MINE, and no one ever printed a resolution...though it seems LOTS OF PCMs got sold as an attempted fix.

    Guys, I am telling you...try this first...this worked better than dropping a locker into a 9-inch rear, to get better traction!!!
  • Ok...I got it fixed, drove it...ran great. Then, drove it during a heavy rainstorm about 60-miles away from home, and it DIED! Cost $240 to have it towed back...sat for 4-days, disconnected the battery, reconnected the battery...and on a beautiful sunny day, took it for a drive...ran great! Ok...drove it around for a few days...ran WONDERFUL. Next time I needed to make the same 60-mile trip, again it was raining...same deal, but $280 tow bill this time!!!

    Got it home, dried it out, again...drove great about 3-days later...put maybe 500-miles on it...ran great...not one miss. Went out this morning, raining like a dog...started it. It ran for MAYBE 10-seconds, and DIED. Won't start, PATS is flashing again...and I am sure that when the rain stops, and all is dry, it will run PERFECT AGAIN.

    HELP SOMEONE!!! What is getting wet, or humid, that even sitting still in the driveway, just starting it causes this?!?!?!
  • I'm trying to help as many folks as I can. I thought it was the windshield that was leaking ... MAYBE! We had the windshield replaced the day after a hard rain (we had a "starburst that eventually lead to a long crack"); hubby tried to find any possible leaks ... but we didn't see anything wet, when the windshield was pulled off (the seals appeared dry :) ).

    Our windshield tech told us that the "groove" on the top of the truck (where the luggage rack is), is notorious for causing LEAKS. In other words, where the "luggage rack" is attached ... big hole ... it is HOLLOW right there.

    So we lucked out ... we were able to follow where the water was getting in and we sealed all the HOLES accordingly.

    Since a new windshield was installed, we had a "good seal" there (#1 culprit @ times).

    We took the luggage rack off and basically made a "gasket" before putting it back on! (when you take it off, you will see what I mean).

    We also sealed the hole(s) where the inside, assist handle is located. (the handle in the upper, left corner).

    Hopefully, this helps someone else. Not exactly SURE which method worked (I believe it was the LUGGAGE RACK HOLES), but we no longer have that problem when it rains anymore.

    (** note - we had the battery replaced and a new alternator, before figuring this out .... sheesh )
  • chammonschammons Posts: 1
    Ok so I have had this truck for almost three years now and the both front windows wont go up or down. I was just wondering if anyone else was having this problem? They say there is no recall on this but I just don't see how they could just go out with out there being some era on their part. :confuse:
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Posts: 19
    Does your radio work or not when the windows don't work?
  • wroewroe Posts: 1
    did you find out what was the cause of your troubles. Every time I go to car wash it dont run right.
  • bknesalbknesal Posts: 1
    I know exactly what the problem is. You need to have your window taken out and resealed. There was a factory prob. that lets rain in. It drips to the ele. box and fries everything. When it dries the prob is gone. I did mine and I havent had a problem since. It happens in the 1998-2002 models.
  • I am having a problem with my tail lights not working but all other light functions are working also tag lights not working. And the instrument panel lights and some of the radio lights are not working it all started at the same exact time I bought a gem mod and changed it out but nothing changed I was told by a dealer that it did not have to be revamped can someone please help me thanks little kuntry :lemon:
  • my 97 exp while driving using electrical controls (ie windows a/c front or rear)
    vehicle stalls or sometimes dies the dash gauges fluctuate wildly ( ie temp from low to high gas full to empty) change battery a week ago cause had to keep jumping it off
    any ideas
  • My 2000 Expo keeps blowing the #13 fuse as soon as I put it in. I checked all the bulbs and I did find that the brake lights on the hatch were in really bad shape. I did put new sockets and bulbs, but it did not help. Now I am about to change the brake switch and hope it will fix my problem. The #13 fuse is for my brake, signals and hazard lights. The cruise control is also on this fuse. I recently had the dealer change out the cruise control recall switch thinking maybe that was the problem too. That didn't help. The only other thing wrong is the odometer reading comes and goes every now and then. Oh I forgot to mention that I did change the multifunction switch too. Question- I did find that that two of the wires that plug into the mutifunction switch were not locked in to the socket or plug that goes into the mutifunctin switch, would that cause a short blowing that fuse?
  • The backup sensor quit working a long time ago. I would turn it on and it turns back off. Every so often, it works but it is rare. The radio controls on the steering wheel will turn the volume up when I click on the volume down button or it will change stations. Now, the heat and cool functions on my seats are not working. I click on the button, it lights up and then the lights go off. The seat never heats or cools.
    Ideas? I just paid it off. I was hoping to go a year or two before I had to put much money into it.
  • Back up sensors are probably a wire shorting somewhere, one place to look is where the wiring harness goes into the driver side tail light. I spent a lot of time diagnosing a similar problem that the dealer found in 5 minutes. The seat issue is most likely the blower. I have had one replaced by the dealer for around $400, they take the seat out for it. I have recently done a replacement cushion and tilit motor on my driver seat and going forward would tackle a blower myself from above.
  • tajitaji Posts: 1
    We purchased a 2010 Expedition w/200 miles on it 12 Oct 10. It has physically been out our house 4 days; the rest of the time at the dealer because of numerous electrical problems. Our dealers response to us, when it was taken there the fourth time on Monday, is for us to get a lawyer. We have attempted to work w/Ford directly and they are not much help either. I am so sorry we made this extremely expensive purchase and will be meeting w/a lawyer tomorrow to find out how to get our money back. :lemon:
  • You dont need a lawyer to use the lemon law, it is designed for an individual to use it. Look it up in your state and fill out the paperwork,. Cake.
  • “We purchased a 2010 Expedition w/200 miles on it 12 Oct 10. It has physically been out our house 4 days; the rest of the time at the dealer because of numerous electrical problems. Our dealers response to us, when it was taken there the fourth time on Monday, is for us to get a lawyer. We have attempted to work w/Ford directly and they are not much help either. I am so sorry we made this extremely expensive purchase and will be meeting w/a lawyer tomorrow to find out how to get our money back.”

    Hi Taji,

    My name is Joanne with the Ford Customer Relationship Center. I am sorry to hear of the circumstances that have prompted your post. We would be happy to take another look at the situation, please feel free to call the Customer Relationship Center at 800-392-3673 at your convenience. We are unfortunately unable to address your concern on a public forum.

    Kind regards,

    Joanne
    Ford Customer Service Division
  • Sweet. Unfortunately if this person is like most of the posters here, they are "one and done". They come by to gripe and never come back. They joined Nov 3, posted once and that was it. Very nice to think that customer care would monitor forums.
  • archlarchl Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 expedition that needs jumped every time I try to start it. I replaced the battery and the alternator has been checked and is working properly. Are there any other known electrical draws known for this model?
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