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Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling

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  • jf79jf79 Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 intrigue my car will start all the time when its cold. it seem like every time i drive for more than 45min.it will noy start back up it takes at least 20-45 min. for it to start again. the thing is it does not allways happen. i can go a few days to a few weeks with no problems. anyone else out there ever had this type off problem or have any advise please help
  • doublebdoubleb Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Intrique, and am having a problem with it starting. It makes no difference whether it is cold or warm. I usually need to turn the key 2 -3 times before it will start. I checked the code on my engine service light and it is PO446. It talks about a circuit condition in the purge vent solenoid. Says it could be defective. I checked the connections, and they seem to be secure, so any ideas. I replaced the crankcase positions sensor last year when it and crankcase sensor were throwing a code. I heard unless both are defective it will not throw a code. Suggestions?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Best I can find it is likely a valve or solenoid for the evap system
  • doublebdoubleb Posts: 2
    Thanks! I realize this could be a solenoid in the EVAP system, but cannot find all the parts. Where is the canister located and and the purge vent solenoid. Does anyone know the location of these?
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    Went to start my 3.5l 99 intrigue and heard a pop sound just as I turned the key, now all it does is crank but not start. Can hear fuel pump come on. Looking for help to do a secondary spark test. The Chiltons I have has no instructions on how to do this. With the coil over design of this engine you can't access the plugs or wires. Just changed the plugs and boots last fall. Love my Olds but have had to spend much $ lattely. Thank for help
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=236930&highlight=P044- 6

    Above is s discussion on P0446 on a 2002 Intrigue (same engine). I believe it is along the fuel filler line.
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw.
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Never heard of this before. Is this part of the starter?
  • bblamirebblamire Posts: 1
    This sounds remarkably like the problem on my 99 intrigue (3.8L)(246,000 km). Mechanics note that when this occurs (took 2 days) they receive a security code. They mentioned that the fuel flow was interrupted. They are still baffled. Do the keys have a "chip"? If so, what senses the chip? Can't be the key itself since the problem occurs with the spare key as well.
  • dennis1957dennis1957 Posts: 5
    There is no chip, these keys apparently have to be made of the proper metal or they will not start the car. If the keys are of the wrong metal ( affects electrical continuity ), they will trip the "security' code and the car will not run. It will crank, but won't start. My car just seems to be starving for gas initially, but not all of the time, and it always starts. Sometimes it stalls once or twice before it finally catches. I suspect that either the fuel pressure regulator is weak, or there is a problem with the pump itself. That is the LAST place I want to look.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The security code means you have a problem with the ignition switch. When the security light comes on, it cuts fuel flow. A bad ignition switch will cause the problems you have been experiencing.

    The ignition switch can cause some weird problems with these vehicles not just hard starting. I'm having issues with the ignition switch on my 2000 Intrigue. I may try to clean the contacts if the weather holds up this weekend. Cleaning the switch has worked for a number of owners.
  • fadefade Posts: 5
    I've intently read the posts on starting problems. I've owned my Intrigue for 5 years now and it has intermittently failed to start. I should say, it fails to crank. All dash lights work properly and the fuel pump starts as the key goes to "ON". However as you continue to push the key to the "START" position absolutely nothing happens. I regularly clean the battery terminals and regularly spray WD40 into the ignition and the problem goes away sometimes for months. But it always seemed to return. I finally purchased a new AC-Delco ignition switch hoping to permanently cure the problem. It went over 2 months before failing once again. I've have used every suggestion listed here and other forums. Sometimes if I move the shifter it starts. Other times I open the windows to allow air flow to the interior as it seems to occur most often in hot weather. Most times I can pull the key out, turn it upside down a few times and eventually it cranks. But this car did not come with the security system so I can't believe the key itself is the issue. When I lived in Indy it typically did not occur all winter, then begin failing as soon as hot weather arrived. It has no error codes listed currently and I've never found a code that made any sense at all after it refused to crank over. I have had no other issues with the car after 100K+ miles, but this one is simply driving me crazy. My wife refuses to drive it after it happened to her on a shopping trip...lol. But I love the car and would like to put another 50K miles on it before swapping it out. I drive 40 miles to work and it still gets 28 MPG in comfort.
    Has anyone tried any of the previous remedies that actually cured the non-crank issue permanently? My local Chevy dealer continues to scratch his head and offers no resolution other than a new ignition switch and starter. I've eliminated the ignition switch and find it hard to believe the starter would be the issue since I've never had to get out and wrap the starter yet. Seems to me if I had a dead spot, it would stay dead until I somehow moved it off the dead spot as in smacking it with a ball pean hammer. But it always "eventually" cranks. What other GM models used this engine and the basic starter scheme as the Olds? Perhaps I should go to that model dealer who may have heard of this problem. Any, any discussion would be appreciated. THX Fade
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    if you installed a new switch then you should be able to illiminate that for now.
    However, one cannot dismiss the physical connections at the switch. Loose, dirty overheated etc.
    The other possibilities are teh starter relay, the park neutral switch and the stater solenoid.

    Can you hear the solenoid clicking when the key is turned?

    The starter relay is grounded by the pcm and is energized by the key turning and the PN switch engaged in proper gear. The solenoid then transfers battery power to starter.

    Since it is so intermittent, unless you have a meter or lights connected at various points along this circuit, you will not be able to determine what is interrupting the power to the solenoid.

    Second to that, I would look carefully at the back of the ignition switch for overheated connectors. And or measure the resistance of the switch contacts. Should be close to 0 ohms or whatever the leads together are. More than 1 ohm and thats your problem. Also the resistance from the hot side of the switch to the cold side of the PN switch for resistance same criteria.

    The starter solenoid and the starter need a good ground and come from the mounting bolts. loosen and tighten them to reseat the ground connection. also check the ground connection from the bat to the engine.

    cheers
  • fadefade Posts: 5
    I did pull the harness out so that I could clean the connectors and check the physical integrity of the connectors and wiring. All seemed well. I cleaned and lubed the connectors with high-temp electrical grease just for piece of mind.
    I hear absolutely nothing with I hit "START". No clicking, no further fuel pump noise. I have noted the lights go off, however that seems to be a normal occurance even when the switch works. I replaced the battery recently and tore apart the cables for a good cleaning so that should be eliminated. But I did not check the grounds so I will have to go do that. THX. I'll report back. Fade
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    You may want to replace the crankshaft position sensor. Some people have had issue with this sensor and it has NOT produced a code. I'm currently having this problem now. Since you know how to remove the starter, the CKS is right there. Just make sure you get an OEM sensor.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I've been having issues starting my 2000 Intrigue since February. At first it was 2-3 times and then it would start; recently it would take 10-12 times before it started. There were times when the car would stumble when downshifting and stall when driving. While this was happening over the past several months, I would never get a "check Engine" light which was key to the diagnosis. I finally broke down and tried cleaning the ignition starter switch and the connections. The cleaning did not work so I replaced my switch the next day. This has fixed my starting and stalling issues.

    I created a guide to removing the ignition starter switch from the dashboard. I got these directions from another forum. I have used them myself and they do work. You can also apply these directions for accessing the radio, HVAC control unit, instrument cluster (good time to replace any bulbs), etc.

    http://www.carspace.com/guides/Cleaning-the-Ignition-Switch-on-a-2000-Intrigue
  • I have a 2000 Intrigue that has always has problems starting. All of the dash lights come on, and the fuel pump runs for a little while and then nothing. No cranking, no nothing. Throw out two false codes; bad crank sensor, bad cam sensor. I would try 10 times then take the key out and try another 10 times. The most tries was 167, the least was 2.

    The dealers replaced the two crank sensors, one cam sensor, the ignition switch, the security relay, security module, and a specialty shop replaced the starter; $1600 and nothing. If I turn on the head lights with the key out of the ignition, open the drivers’ door, let the key alarm ring 8 times, close the door, and turn off the head lights, put in the key and vroom it starts (most of the time). In two days (if it keeps starting like a normal car) the engine light goes off and life is good.

    If it’s parked for more than 4 hours, it has a good chance of starting. If the car is not ever locked, it starts every time. If you use the remote and lock the car twice with two pushes, un-lock it, it is guaranteed that it will not start. This is what I do, every time, to demonstrate it to each dealer.

    Sometimes I just hold the ignition key on for 30 seconds and out of nowhere it cranks right up and starts. Three dealers, one specialist, and lots of time and money, and nothing.
  • fadefade Posts: 5
    I'm not certain whether I'm glad or sad that others are having my exact issue. After replacing the ignition switch and having no luck I took other advice and replaced the crank and cam sensors. It has slowed down the dead start switch syndrome, but it still occurs. I'm not certain I understand why many have had great success replacing the switch and others haven't.
    Does anyone know whether the dash mounted switch senses the key in any way? My Intrigue does not have the security system so they keys have no chip on the them. Although I replaced the ignition switch with an AC-Delco part, it did not come with the key tumbler so I'm wondering if there is some sort of sensor in the tumbler mechanism that senses the key. I say that because way back when this first began several years ago, I could always turn the key upside down and it would start normally. Later I had to turn the key several times, but that finally quit helping leading me to clean and later replace the ignition switch. Any thoughts? Gary
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    babylonbob: Here's a discussion from another forum that discusses your exact problem. Since the cam shaft and crankshaft position sensors are failing at the same time, repeatedly, the most likely problem is a bad ECU. It appears this is a plug-in part. Read it over and decide.

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=908503
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I think whatever "sensor" there is for the key is inthe tumblers. The ignition switch is designed to re-use the tumblers so a re-programming of the key is not necessary.

    since you replaced the ignition switch, cam and crank sensors, read my post above. It may be the solution to your startign problem.

    right now my Intrigue is starting to be a bit more trouble then I would like. I need it to make it another 6 months then I can start to look at replacing it.
  • ffresh420ffresh420 Posts: 2
    I also have an intrigue like yours that I purchased at an auction. My car would do the same thing. To get it to start I would have to mess with the battery because there is a short in my cables. Sometimes, however, the car would start without that if you tried it a few times. I never fixed the problem because the dealer wants over $400 to replace the lines. I figured the inconvience was worth it.
  • ffresh420ffresh420 Posts: 2
    My car is not in good shape like most of these other posters. I purchased my car two years ago at an auction. The car had been stolen, so it wasn't in great shape. Anyway, I was trying to install a radio, but didn't use a kit to hold it in place. Because of that it ended up shorting out my dash, meaning I do not know how much gas I have or how fast I am going, and the only light that works is the "service engine soon" light. Recently the radiator busted and I replaced it with a new one. The car was not having any immediate problems after that, but seemingly the car got worse and worse until yesterday.
    Yesterday I got into my car to run some errands. I started having problems a few miles from the house; when I would press on the gas the car would struggle to get up to speed. In fact at lights and while making turns the car would sometimes cut off and make a weird knocking noise. I stopped to get some gas (about 3.4 gallons=$15) then proceeded to drive for about 35 miles, and the car continued to perform the same. After the 35 mile mark (three blocks from my destination) my car cut off and wouldn't start back. It cranks but nothing else, even if you press on the gas (seems to respond the same wether on the gas or not). I though that it may be out of gas, so I dumped four more gallons in and it was still the same. Tried to give it a jump as well and it was still the same. I don't know if the pump works or not when you turn the ignition to on (don't know what to listen for) but the service engine light was on sometimes, other times it was off, and other times it would blink. The only other things that i think it could be would be the fuel filter or the fuel pump. Please help me!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    There are several things that could cause the issues you are having. The first thing I would do is have the car scanned for any trouble codes. That will determine if we are dealing with a fuel delivery issue or an ignition problem. Otherwise we are all simply guessing.

    Since your Intrigue has been troublesome, I would invest in an OBD II scanner. You can get one off EBay or like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94168
  • I been having the stalling problem, now on a daily basis. I can start the car without much issues (sometines its a little rough start). Now everyday driving, somewhre between 6-11 mins the engine will sputtter and stall. When re-starting, it will either not turn over (starter ok) or it will missfire and it feels like its running on 3 or 4 cyc. I changed the ingition pack and had a new fuel pump installed. I rarely get an error (service engine lite, on right side), sometimes this lite will appear but the dealer didnt get any code. reading the OM it said this lite will be related to emissions. After several attempts to get the car to re-start It will run perfectly ok for the rest of the trip. HELP! this is making me nutz!
  • My 1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue is running good but some time it won't start even the starter is cranking. I wait about 5 to 10 minutes and it starts OK; then the engine dies when I make a stop and no display on the pannel. I restart again, it may starts right a way or I have to wait again for it works.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    If the service Engine light comes on, there should be a code stored. I'm leaning toward the crankshaft sensor. Also have you changed the spark plugs? How many miles do have on this vehicle?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    is the service engine soon light on? If no light is on, it could be the ignition switch.
  • only sometimes the service engine lite will come on, more so when the fuel tanks is 3/4 full or /14 mark (dont know if this matters). I changed half of the plugs.. cant pull the boots off the rear of engine. Last time the Service engine lite came on I took it to the dealer and they found nothing stored. They told me i need to replace my water pump and there is a oil leak coming from the intake gasket. Buts is really odd it happens usually at 7 mins after I start engine. Tonight it worked ok past the 7 min mark w/o problems, but the RPM did change when I came to a stop lite, and it got a tiny rough for about 2 sec.
  • is there a way to monitor the fuel flow / psi while driving? are their any guages that can be attached? I'm suspecting a fuel cut out issue, but I had a new fuel pump installed so I dont think its the pump, I think it can be a relay.
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