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Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling

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  • dio__2dio__2 Posts: 6
    I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and shorted out a fuse when I did it. I got a new fuse and the car cranked and started up but before I got out of the parking lot it stopped again :( The car just stops, buzzes and all the warning lights go on. Then it won't start back up again for a while. I'm hoping that there is nothing severely wrong with the car. Any ideas? I've heard that it could be the fuel pressure regulator or the ignition control module but I have no idea it wasn't giving any codes. My friend thinks that its some sort of "floating short".
  • I haven't done anything with it yet, it is not at the critical stage, just the occasional nuisance stage. My wife had a 2000 Alero ( 3.4 ) and that FPR sprang a leak, that malfunction was obvious. Changing it wasn't hard or terribly expensive, but of course the 3.5 is a completely different engine. Just like changing the oil filter, this could wind up being a whole different experience.I had a '98 Intrigue ( 3800 Type 2 ), and that never had this problem, even with about 123,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, that one was demolished last summer, but it saved my kids' lives in a rear end collision with a Mack dump truck. My daughter was driving, doing 30, the truck hit them doing about 50. They all walked away without a scratch.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    check out the connectors at the battery. Make sure the connection is clean and secure.
  • This is not an electrical issue, something occasionally interrupts the fuel flow during startup. During these episodes, when the engine does finally start (usually after one or two more tries ) it revs way up and then drops low and then comes up to normal RPM's. It acts like the dam just broke and the gas finally rushes in. Engine temperature seems to have some effect, the colder it is, the easier it starts. Could be the rubber diaphragm in the FPS.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I had a hard time following your problem until I realized you used two different user names and two different posts....I think. Either way, if you haven't started it in 5-6 months, I would try one of those fuel line additives that is designed to get the water out. Also you may consider replacing the fuel filter (by the driver's side passenger door). Those are pretty cheap and you should be able to do the fuel filter yourself (start the car; pull the fuel pump fuse and have at it.) esp. if you replaced the crankshaft sensor yourself.

    Also if you turn the key to the "on" position you should hear the fuel pump humming for 2-3 seconds. This is normally a quick way to see if the fuel pump is working. To check the fuel pressure regulator, you need a pressure gage for the fuel line. Those aren't too expensive. You should be able to do a google search on that procedure.
  • dio__2dio__2 Posts: 6
    dennis1957 is someone else with a similar but not the same problem. I only posted the stuff under this screen name. My car will start up when its cold but it will cut off when you get moving, the dash will buzz and the check engine, service vehicle, anti-lock and brakes lights are on. Maybe its electrical maybe its not. The car is most likely to stall when it accelerates, decelerates, or when I'm coming out of the parking lot (the front end is tilted down).
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    Warm engine starting problems. I just ordered up a Borg Warner fuel pressure regulator for $41.00 it will be at the parts house in a couple of hours. A post on another site mentioned that the fuel rail must be lifted up to allow room to remove the regulator. I don't know if this completely pulls the rail up enough to disengage the O rings or not. The regulator just has a clip to hold it in place and reportedly it only took about 20 minutes to replace.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    FPR update. I replaced the FPR and I notice that the engine is smoother running. It's only about a 20 minute job. The injector rail does not have to be moved to R&R the regulator. BW did not include the mounting clip as the oem unit would have, but I doubt that the clip is worth $80.00 or so difference in price. Just required a little motor oil on the O-rings and position the vacuum tube pointing in the direction as removed or the vacuum line will be too short. Located at the rear of the engine, drivers side at the end of the fuel rail.

    Piece of cake.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    You didn't mention if you have a set code or check engine soon light when the car is running. If so take it to Auto Zone and have them check the code. The ignition switch is another known gremlin. Mine would just die going down the road before I spent $300.00, at the dealer, to replace the switch.

    I have had so many problems with the intrigue that I bought an OBDII code reader. But this can be a double edged sword. Engine failed to crank at all and I would get both crankshaft and camshaft position codes. Well! if the engine isn't turning over then they have no feed back. I replaced the camshaft sensor. Wound up having it towed to the dealer and spent $300.00 for a starter. In the days before hi tech I would have had someone rap the starter with a hammer. But???? :cry:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Sorry dio_2. Dennis1957 responded to my initial answer to your post which caused me confusion. Any way.... Since you haven't started it in a while, check the batterry with a voltmeter. On another forum, a low battery caused the light on the dash to "go crazy". Also, you may want to check the gas and fuel filter. If it has been sitting that long, it could be causing some problems. Try one of those additives that gets rid of the water in the fuel. I would also check (and clean) the air filter and throttle body. Those are simple since you already tackled the crankshaft.

    Like coonhound mentioned, the ignition switch could also be the problem.
  • jf79jf79 Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 intrigue my car will start all the time when its cold. it seem like every time i drive for more than 45min.it will noy start back up it takes at least 20-45 min. for it to start again. the thing is it does not allways happen. i can go a few days to a few weeks with no problems. anyone else out there ever had this type off problem or have any advise please help
  • doublebdoubleb Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Intrique, and am having a problem with it starting. It makes no difference whether it is cold or warm. I usually need to turn the key 2 -3 times before it will start. I checked the code on my engine service light and it is PO446. It talks about a circuit condition in the purge vent solenoid. Says it could be defective. I checked the connections, and they seem to be secure, so any ideas. I replaced the crankcase positions sensor last year when it and crankcase sensor were throwing a code. I heard unless both are defective it will not throw a code. Suggestions?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Best I can find it is likely a valve or solenoid for the evap system
  • doublebdoubleb Posts: 2
    Thanks! I realize this could be a solenoid in the EVAP system, but cannot find all the parts. Where is the canister located and and the purge vent solenoid. Does anyone know the location of these?
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    Went to start my 3.5l 99 intrigue and heard a pop sound just as I turned the key, now all it does is crank but not start. Can hear fuel pump come on. Looking for help to do a secondary spark test. The Chiltons I have has no instructions on how to do this. With the coil over design of this engine you can't access the plugs or wires. Just changed the plugs and boots last fall. Love my Olds but have had to spend much $ lattely. Thank for help
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=236930&highlight=P044- 6

    Above is s discussion on P0446 on a 2002 Intrigue (same engine). I believe it is along the fuel filler line.
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw.
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Never heard of this before. Is this part of the starter?
  • bblamirebblamire Posts: 1
    This sounds remarkably like the problem on my 99 intrigue (3.8L)(246,000 km). Mechanics note that when this occurs (took 2 days) they receive a security code. They mentioned that the fuel flow was interrupted. They are still baffled. Do the keys have a "chip"? If so, what senses the chip? Can't be the key itself since the problem occurs with the spare key as well.
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