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Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling

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Comments

  • mybabygirlmybabygirl Member Posts: 3
    2001 oldsmobile intrigue.( 360000 k on car, 150000 k on motor.. ) have had the car for two years, has always had starting issues. never failed me but would crank over 8 to 10 times before actually starting. NOW, it cranks over and starts but makes a grinding noise when cold, as soon as it warms up the noise lessens but does not go away.... about a week after that started, lights started going wonky in the dash and engine started hesitating, acting as though the tranny was slipping.... could it be the starter is going or is it possibly a short somewhere because the starter is overheating.. help, i dont want to put any more money into this car if the tranny is going... ( put in over $800.00 in the last couple of weeks.)
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    Well....this is another one of those strange Intrigue problems! I had a slow starting problem....first time ever (and never ever had an issue with stalling).
    The mechanics said it was the battery....and replaced a perfectly good one.
    Still hard starting. They said it was the alternator....replaced that ($480 for a rebuilt!).
    Still hard starting. Finally, went to my old mechanic and he replaced the STARTER....fixed!
    Now...all this time, and before, my instrument gauges were crazy...and the trac off light would come on. After the starter was replaced.....no more problem!

    But here's the thing....two years ago had a used transmission put in. It was never right, but the mechanics said...no problem....replaced torque converter selenoid....other stuff. Finally, they had to admit the transmission was shot, and replaced it AGAIN.
    My problems with the crazy gauges began after they replaced the transmission the first time!

    I always thought it was an electrical/grounding issue....like they took the thing apart and did reattach the grounds to the right places, but they did not want to hear that and kept saying it was all fine.

    The Intrigues do have some strange issues, but, seriously, it is a fun car to drive and I don't think 150K miles on that engine is an issue. Mine has 160K and the engine is the best thing about the car....besides the ride and power :o) I just bought a Mazda 3....to save gas, etc.
    Duh! The Olds was getting 21-23 mpg and the best the Mazda 3 gets is 28! And the ride is awful!

    BTW you shouldn't have to crank the car 8-10 times...ever.
  • mybabygirlmybabygirl Member Posts: 3
    It has always had an issue starting.... lets just say it takes about 2 minutes for the car to start once you have the key in the ignition ...... now it makes the loud grinding noise.... but i am replacing the starter and hope that solves the rest of the issues.... thanks for the help.....
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    There are some other posts about hard starting related to the ignition switch. Might be that?

    BTW...just remembered....when the mechanic put in the starter, it made a loud grinding noise (never heard anything like it before), so he replaced that starter too. Then it was fine.
    Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
  • kkim_hikkim_hi Member Posts: 7
    my car did the same thing; 1st I replaced the sensor behind the pulley, then 4 months pass, it stalled without any codes, would start then die randomly.
    i had a used spare ignition module from the junk yard and replaced that and it worked for 6 months and died one day. i switched to the old module i had in the trunk and it worked fine. I suggest to try replacing the ignition module with a new one. I was told GM cars dont give a code or a inaccurate code if the ignition module is faulty.
  • pz4wfqpz4wfq Member Posts: 3
    HELP !!!!! I'm having similar problems. Considering the age of the car don't feel like putting any more money into it but like it to have it last few more months, at least until I find a job.

    Problem: Currently Engine light is ON due to crank positioning Sensor being gone for second time (This is not the real issue, I learned to live with the results of crank position sensor being out, means it takes little longer to start but the car will start).
    The real problem right now is that sometimes engine does not turn over when trying to start, again this occurs intermittently. There are time when it start without any issues but now there are times when you turn the key, all the lights and sounds are there and you can hear the crank relay click but engine does not turn over. After few times(could be up to 10 retries) the engine will turn over but won't start, and on next attempt it start fine.

    What I've done so far: Initially I thought it was crank relay or ignition relay, so I have replaced crank relay, I believe relay 11 under. It didn't resolve the issue.
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey There this might help you out.. read along...
    if you have questions email me [email protected]

    So is your car stalling while driving, not starting sometimes, engine lights and all the dash lights glow and the needles fall back to zero.??
    Here is my story with my car:

    I just reposted what I said to others, Let me know if this is whats happening to your car??

    My car had this problem for awhile before I got it figured out. Almost a year of intermittent issues. What my car would do would not start some days and others it would be fine. Many times it would actually stall while driving at any speed, It even stalled on me on the damn highway. I had a bunch of parts replaced, the crank sensor, the computer, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, actual ignition switich (the switch where the key goes into).The problem was so hard to find since it was intermittent. At one point I had no problems for two months but the problem eventually got worse and worse to the point where the car would not start at all.
    I finally to it to a local GM dealer and they found the issue.

    ""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"

    So I'm pretty sure it was the swtich behind the key cylinder(the key cylinder is below)

    I think that this was the part giving me issues ====> http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_switch/oldsmobile/intrigue.html
    It is a switch behind the above part.
    It was shorting out the voltage to the battery shutting down the engine.
    Yeah the dash lights and the engine light would flash on and off, the rpm guage would just die.. it was weird..
    Have a mechanic you know try to fix if if you can cause the GM dealers rip you off..
    maybe quote what i did above should help.
    Since they fixed that part my car has been fine..
    hope this helps
    keep me posted..
    thanks
    chris
  • drpmd08drpmd08 Member Posts: 3
    Here is what is going on with my car:

    Whenever I drive it to the point of the car warming up and getting to running temperature, the engine spits and sputters and will stall out. Sometimes it will start back up, others it won't and I'm stuck on the highway. When the engine starts acting up, the accelerator shows abnormal response, and finally before it stalls, the car almost pukes and a smell of something rich comes through the car. This is when I'm driving. But when I'm idling after a short distance, like if I drive the car a 15 mile distance, stop, and wait, the car will idle funny, choke, and part of the dash lights will dim, and the headlights will dim also, and then when the car comes back to normal idle (~800rpm) it will all be fine again.

    I've read through these forums over and over, and found that someone suggested the ignition switch behind the dash, which I replaced, and still have this problem.

    We've run a scan on it over and over, and no codes are showing up, and none have been stored. It sounds like it's electrical, but I can't figure out where the problem would be even located. If anyone could help out, I would greatly appreciate it!

    Car Stats:

    1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL 3.8L
    119,000 miles, regular maintenance.
  • mick1mick1 Member Posts: 84
    i would check the basics, fuel, air and spark. how about a clogged fuel filter
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    How did this turn out? Sporadic starting problems where you turn key and get nothing, then other times it starts, can be the starter. It was on mine. Only cost $250 for a new one installed and my issues were over.
  • drpmd08drpmd08 Member Posts: 3
    This past weekend we replaced the upper intake (mine was warped), the coolant, the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body, and put a new serpentine belt in. Will keep posted on how this helps. I still think there is an electrical issue going on, even though I've replaced the ignition switch already.
  • drpmd08drpmd08 Member Posts: 3
    Alright, so after changing everything this weekend, when I came to a stoplight yesterday, the RPM dropped and caught itself, and then would do it again and again, drop below 800, then catch itself and it would rev up to 1500 by itself. So it's not the intake, fuel filter, ignition switch, spark, and no codes. We've even clamped a few vacuum lines to make sure they stay tight, so those can't be the issue...

    Any help at all would be appreciated. This car is turning into a money pit...
  • dablack80dablack80 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same issue so many people here have. Car will start but only after several tries. Already replaced ignition switch, and battery. SEL light is on and produces these codes P0385, P0340, P0335. Which all pertain to the cam and crankshaft sensors. I'm hesitant to replace them and waste more money as it seems that a lot of people have replaced these and had no succsess. Also I have been having turn signal problems with the car since I bought it but pressing the hazard lights fixes it temporarily. Anyone out there that can help?
  • indydad618indydad618 Member Posts: 1
    we just bought a used 99 intrigue, when we bought it we replaced the fuel pump and filter as they were in need. we had the car about a month and it started all this hard to start and stalling at stop lights stuff. I took it to a mechanic friend who sprayed the areas that would have a vacuum to see if it would stall or not, which it didn't. I have replaced the throttle position sensor and the idle air control valve and neither have resolved the issue. I read about it possibly being the electronic ignition switch, but I am hesitant to spend the money on replacing this and it not fixing the issue. Is there any way to test the one installed in the car presently? Anyone have any additional ideas as to what it could be?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks so mch :mad:
  • jeffm16jeffm16 Member Posts: 1
    I have read through this forum and I kind of have the same problem as the starting and then stalling.. the car was working just fine untill my wife had a miror finder bender now when I start the car when its cold starts up just fine.. then after a few minutes of warming it up it stalls out.. I also can drive it when it gets cold and keep it above 1500 rmp it wont die but only when the car it warm it does this... cold the accident have shook something loose. Ive done a once over checking mostly all of the electrial connections.. what could the problem be??
  • tazman330tazman330 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 intrigue that won't start. There is nothing from the starter not even a single click. I was hoping it was my 4 year old battery but when I changed it out still nothing at all. There have been times when i shift from reverse to drive that the lights dim out but no engine sputter. I checked the fuse and it is fine. I do have a short in the dash that effects the Hazard button/turn switch but it has never effected the ignition. The service engine soon light stays on when i hit the ignition but all other warning lights go out. It has hesitated to start before but once i gave it a little gas it kicked over right.away, and has stalled out once on me. I was going up hill in the summer and in traffic so i figured it just didn't get enough air because it started right back up.

    Any advice yall can give would help. I have all original parts in the car still.
  • tazman330tazman330 Member Posts: 2
  • jeffreyscottjeffreyscott Member Posts: 6

    my car just keeps cranking I have a Oldsmobile Intrigue 2000 it started out too crank for about 4 or 5 seconds then it would start now I went out there and it just keeps cranking if someone can give me a little help I would appreciate it thanks jeff and im a new guy on the block

  • wyckitwyckit Member Posts: 1

    Hi all, seems as if I'm late to the party, but I am now experiencing what most of you have described. Any resolutions? I have a 2002 Intrigue, and it has been experiencing the hazard/turn signal issue, with the always on check engine light. Lately, however I have been getting the intermittent stall outs, and it is frustrating. I'm hoping someone has a handle on what is the cause so I can get it fixed, and not have to try a bunch of different things. So far, everyone I have told about this has suggested different things, and I cannot afford guesses right now.

    Your help would be appreciated.

  • johnncassjohnncass Member Posts: 1
    I have a ‘99 intrigue. The first time I drive it for the day it starts right up. If I shut it off and then try to start it again within 30 minutes or so it takes a couple times to start. A lot lately it has been stalling, not really while I’m driving but when I stop at a light or something. Sometimes it will start right back up but most of the time it takes at least 5 minutes of trying and I usually have to pump the accelerator a bit. Just had the fuel pump changed about 2 months ago, but did not change the filter....so you think this could be something as simple as that?
  • jotscanjotscan Member Posts: 1
    Have 2001 Intrigue with 365,980 miles. When the car is driven at freeway speed of over 55 mph and going uphill the engine stalls and dies. But after about half an hour, the car starts and run. Dealer mechanic says low compression on cylinder #3, 70 psi, compression on cylinder #1, 140 psi. Compression specification: 140 - 170 psi. (page 6-153 Intrigue engine repair manual). Recommend to replace the engine.

    Was able to drive the car for another 3,000 miles before the second incident. Time to donate the car.
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