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Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling

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  • tayers812tayers812 Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Alright, to get straight to the point. I'm having the same symptoms as many of the other people on here. I have to crank on the car for a bit to get it to start, some times it starts right up other times it chokes then dies. And it loves to stall on me in traffic which is going to cause me a wreck, it also likes to surge forward so I take note not to follow to closly. And to top it off I keep getting pulled over because my speedometer is reading ten MPH slower then I'm actually, Ive tested it by having a buddy ride next to me. So far Ive replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, the Camshaft Position Sensor, the entire ignition, the battery, the starter, the fuel filter, and tried three different ECUs. Ive cleaned the MAP sensor, the EGR valve with gasket, the MAF sensor, and the throttle body, replaced all gaskets and O-rings, I regularly run Lucus fuel system cleaner through it once a week when I fill up and I only run 89 and I watch where I get it to make sure there is no water contamination, all carefully with q-tips and the proper cleaner not to ruin the parts. As well all my dash lights are on, Ive used my OBDII, as well as a friends, and Autozones', and no codes are pulling. Ive tested the battery, the charging system and starting system and everything is showing good. I'm using the factory key as well as a spare and they both do the same thing. To make a long story short I'm torn on what it is most likely to be, I'm willing to change every electrical part on the car I just want to know what I should shoot for first. Right now I'm torn between replacing the fuel pressure regulator or the MAF, if those don't work next will be the coil packs and the fuel pump, and after that the alternator and TPS. To most this seems like a lot of work and wasted money but I'm determined not to let this beat me. Also I work at Autozone and I'm having a lot of people bring in these cars as well as the Alero and Aurora with similar problems and I would like to help others as well as my self while becoming more knowledgeable about these kinds of things. If anyone out there has any ideas, tips, or hints I'm willing to listen but please be serious no sarcasm. And thanks for reading my post and sharing info. If possible please E-Mail me directly at tayers12345@gmail.com and if any one as any questions for me feel free to ask I'll try my best to help.
  • I sent you an email from bender1972@hotmail.com
    Email me direct if you don't get it...
  • I think I may have stumbled onto the answer to most of the electrical issues with these, and other GM cars.

    A few people have done extensive research and have found low voltage at the computers of cars with issues. The GM engineers set up these systems knowing there was sufficient voltage and current to operate the car properly. It is assumed there is always enough voltage to operate the systems. If the starter turns over well, the battery is OK. Some change the ignition switch and this seems to be the big key to many of these issues. This can help as there is a voltage drop through any switch. The new switch can bring the voltage up just enough to raise the voltage where the car will work again. I took it one step further.

    If the battery is not providing sufficient voltage to the system, then the computer will not work properly. The wife's 99 Olds Intrigue will start and then stop. Only with a little gas will it keep running. This uses the initial fuel pump shot to get the engine running, and with a little gas pedal, then the alternator comes on line to boost the voltage to the computer. It runs.

    So, I took a voltage reading of the battery with the engine off. It reads 12.5 volts. According to the experts this is the battery condition by voltage:

    12.68 Fully charged
    12.45 75%
    12.24 50%
    12.06 25%

    So, I may be at roughly 80% of the required voltage for the car. The starter turns over quite nicely so I took this one step further. I took a reading, at the battery, during starting. The voltage reading was 10.5 volts while cranking. This is way to low to operate the computer and components of the car. It appears that all voltage is being consumed by the starter with no residual voltage to run the computer, etc..

    The battery in the car now is a low grade jobber battery which came with the car when bought. I cannot determine when it was made or how old it is.

    The FIX, I think!

    I am a firm believer in a very good battery like a Delco or Sears Die Hard. There may be other good batteries out there but these are my two favorites. I get the biggest battery that will fit into the tray with the longest warranty. I can usually pickup one of these Delco's, with a seven year warranty, for around $80.00. This is a bit higher than the others but, I never have to clean the cables, they work well past the warranty period, and I never have to get a jump start. The Delco's just work, and well.

    My son has a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix. It came with a Delco battery and has had no electrical issues, at all. The 1999 Intrigue, which the wife drives, has already had the MAF Sensor replaced, the temperature reading for the climate control goes flaky occasionally, and I have the start/stop issue going. All electrical issues.

    Low voltage is a killer to any electrical system. This is like sending 90 volts to your home computer. It may work, but it may not. Ask any electrical engineer about low voltage issues.

    I will be heading to the Delco dealer next week for a new battery. Will keep you informed if this simple fix makes the difference I think it will.
  • i have a 99 intrigue 3800 motor. as i was driving to work one day my car just shut off. almost as if i ran out of gas... i tried to start it and the battery was dead!!all my lights were on and windows rolled down but very slow and dim.. we replaced the battery and the starter and the altinator. someone said to try the crank shaft position sensor? we have jumped the car and even double jumped it and the car wont start. the battery is draining everytime.. what do i do?
  • I see you have posted this long ago. I have an Olds Intrigue 2000 3.5L same exact symptoms. I can tell you what its not because these are the things I did to remedy the problem. Spark plugs, air filter, PCV valve, MAF sensor. I only cleaned my MAF sensor by taking it off the plenum and spraying it with carb cleaner and using an air compressor to get any carbon buildup off there. I used a nylon brush to clean the screen and it really was filthy but when I got it back together and test drove it, there was no change at all in stalling or starting with a warm engine. Mine starts fine in the morning and then later its a total cluster F.
    My local shop gives a trouble code reader for free and it has absolutely no trouble codes. My next step is to try the fuel pressure regulator, CPS, and fuel filter. Did you fix yours? HELP, I don't want to put a lot of money in this car again....
  • Hey I'm just reposting what I replied to others...hope it helps

    My car had this problem for awhile before I got it figured out. Almost a year of intermittent issues. What my car would do would not start some days and others it would be fine. Many times it would actually stall while driving at any speed, It even stalled on me on the damn highway. I had a bunch of parts replaced, the crank sensor, the computer, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, actual ignition switich (the switch where the key goes into).The problem was so hard to find since it was intermittent. At one point I had no problems for two months but the problem eventually got worse and worse to the point where the car would not start at all.
    I finally to it to a local GM dealer and they found the issue.

    ""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"

    So I'm pretty sure it was the swtich behind the key cylinder(the key cylinder is below)

    I think that this was the part giving me issues ====> http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_switch/oldsmobile/intrigue.html
    It is a switch behind the above part.
    It was shorting out the voltage to the battery shutting down the engine.
    Yeah the dash lights and the engine light would flash on and off, the rpm guage would just die.. it was weird..
    Have a mechanic you know try to fix if if you can cause the GM dealers rip you off..
    maybe quote what i did above should help.
    Since they fixed that part my car has been fine..
    hope this helps
    keep me posted..
    thanks
    chris
  • e-mail me at Bender1972@hotmail.com if you like
  • I also had a problem with the car not starting. It took longer and longer for it to crank until it finally wouldn't start at all. This was one problem I never had before (160K miles). I also never had a problem with the Olds stalling or cutting out.
    'Mechanics' first said it was the battery, and replaced mine ($250), even though it tested fine! Problem continued. Then they replaced the alternator (almost $500). No difference. Finally went to another mechanic, and they replaced the starter ($300). Problem solved!
    ALSO....after the starter was replaced, the instrument gauges were FINE (no service engine soon light and trac lights going on and off, and the gauges weren't going crazy)!
  • $250 for a battery, that a ripoff, batteries should be no more that a $100 bucks plus 20 to install, get a new mechanice.. lol..
    if you still have probelms read my other posts.....
  • $250 for a battery, that a ripoff, batteries should be no more that a $100 bucks plus 20 to install, get a new mechanice.. lol..
    if you still have probelms read my other posts.....
  • 2001 oldsmobile intrigue.( 360000 k on car, 150000 k on motor.. ) have had the car for two years, has always had starting issues. never failed me but would crank over 8 to 10 times before actually starting. NOW, it cranks over and starts but makes a grinding noise when cold, as soon as it warms up the noise lessens but does not go away.... about a week after that started, lights started going wonky in the dash and engine started hesitating, acting as though the tranny was slipping.... could it be the starter is going or is it possibly a short somewhere because the starter is overheating.. help, i dont want to put any more money into this car if the tranny is going... ( put in over $800.00 in the last couple of weeks.)
  • Well....this is another one of those strange Intrigue problems! I had a slow starting problem....first time ever (and never ever had an issue with stalling).
    The mechanics said it was the battery....and replaced a perfectly good one.
    Still hard starting. They said it was the alternator....replaced that ($480 for a rebuilt!).
    Still hard starting. Finally, went to my old mechanic and he replaced the STARTER....fixed!
    Now...all this time, and before, my instrument gauges were crazy...and the trac off light would come on. After the starter was replaced.....no more problem!

    But here's the thing....two years ago had a used transmission put in. It was never right, but the mechanics said...no problem....replaced torque converter selenoid....other stuff. Finally, they had to admit the transmission was shot, and replaced it AGAIN.
    My problems with the crazy gauges began after they replaced the transmission the first time!

    I always thought it was an electrical/grounding issue....like they took the thing apart and did reattach the grounds to the right places, but they did not want to hear that and kept saying it was all fine.

    The Intrigues do have some strange issues, but, seriously, it is a fun car to drive and I don't think 150K miles on that engine is an issue. Mine has 160K and the engine is the best thing about the car....besides the ride and power :o) I just bought a Mazda 3....to save gas, etc.
    Duh! The Olds was getting 21-23 mpg and the best the Mazda 3 gets is 28! And the ride is awful!

    BTW you shouldn't have to crank the car 8-10 times...ever.
  • It has always had an issue starting.... lets just say it takes about 2 minutes for the car to start once you have the key in the ignition ...... now it makes the loud grinding noise.... but i am replacing the starter and hope that solves the rest of the issues.... thanks for the help.....
  • There are some other posts about hard starting related to the ignition switch. Might be that?

    BTW...just remembered....when the mechanic put in the starter, it made a loud grinding noise (never heard anything like it before), so he replaced that starter too. Then it was fine.
    Good luck with whatever you decide to do!
  • my car did the same thing; 1st I replaced the sensor behind the pulley, then 4 months pass, it stalled without any codes, would start then die randomly.
    i had a used spare ignition module from the junk yard and replaced that and it worked for 6 months and died one day. i switched to the old module i had in the trunk and it worked fine. I suggest to try replacing the ignition module with a new one. I was told GM cars dont give a code or a inaccurate code if the ignition module is faulty.
  • HELP !!!!! I'm having similar problems. Considering the age of the car don't feel like putting any more money into it but like it to have it last few more months, at least until I find a job.

    Problem: Currently Engine light is ON due to crank positioning Sensor being gone for second time (This is not the real issue, I learned to live with the results of crank position sensor being out, means it takes little longer to start but the car will start).
    The real problem right now is that sometimes engine does not turn over when trying to start, again this occurs intermittently. There are time when it start without any issues but now there are times when you turn the key, all the lights and sounds are there and you can hear the crank relay click but engine does not turn over. After few times(could be up to 10 retries) the engine will turn over but won't start, and on next attempt it start fine.

    What I've done so far: Initially I thought it was crank relay or ignition relay, so I have replaced crank relay, I believe relay 11 under. It didn't resolve the issue.
  • Hey There this might help you out.. read along...
    if you have questions email me bender1972@hotmail.com

    So is your car stalling while driving, not starting sometimes, engine lights and all the dash lights glow and the needles fall back to zero.??
    Here is my story with my car:

    I just reposted what I said to others, Let me know if this is whats happening to your car??

    My car had this problem for awhile before I got it figured out. Almost a year of intermittent issues. What my car would do would not start some days and others it would be fine. Many times it would actually stall while driving at any speed, It even stalled on me on the damn highway. I had a bunch of parts replaced, the crank sensor, the computer, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, actual ignition switich (the switch where the key goes into).The problem was so hard to find since it was intermittent. At one point I had no problems for two months but the problem eventually got worse and worse to the point where the car would not start at all.
    I finally to it to a local GM dealer and they found the issue.

    ""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"

    So I'm pretty sure it was the swtich behind the key cylinder(the key cylinder is below)

    I think that this was the part giving me issues ====> http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_switch/oldsmobile/intrigue.html
    It is a switch behind the above part.
    It was shorting out the voltage to the battery shutting down the engine.
    Yeah the dash lights and the engine light would flash on and off, the rpm guage would just die.. it was weird..
    Have a mechanic you know try to fix if if you can cause the GM dealers rip you off..
    maybe quote what i did above should help.
    Since they fixed that part my car has been fine..
    hope this helps
    keep me posted..
    thanks
    chris
  • drpmd08drpmd08 Posts: 3
    Here is what is going on with my car:

    Whenever I drive it to the point of the car warming up and getting to running temperature, the engine spits and sputters and will stall out. Sometimes it will start back up, others it won't and I'm stuck on the highway. When the engine starts acting up, the accelerator shows abnormal response, and finally before it stalls, the car almost pukes and a smell of something rich comes through the car. This is when I'm driving. But when I'm idling after a short distance, like if I drive the car a 15 mile distance, stop, and wait, the car will idle funny, choke, and part of the dash lights will dim, and the headlights will dim also, and then when the car comes back to normal idle (~800rpm) it will all be fine again.

    I've read through these forums over and over, and found that someone suggested the ignition switch behind the dash, which I replaced, and still have this problem.

    We've run a scan on it over and over, and no codes are showing up, and none have been stored. It sounds like it's electrical, but I can't figure out where the problem would be even located. If anyone could help out, I would greatly appreciate it!

    Car Stats:

    1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL 3.8L
    119,000 miles, regular maintenance.
  • mick1mick1 Posts: 84
    i would check the basics, fuel, air and spark. how about a clogged fuel filter
  • How did this turn out? Sporadic starting problems where you turn key and get nothing, then other times it starts, can be the starter. It was on mine. Only cost $250 for a new one installed and my issues were over.
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