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Honda Accord Transmission Questions

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  • The 2003 - 2006 Accord V6 transmission has a strainer buried under the Valve Body. 16 steps to remove. Accord V6 ref page 14-236 Service Manual, V6 Supplement Accord. ATF Replacement 14-186: 3. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) , 5. Refill transmission with the recommended fluid .... Always use Honda ATF-Z1... There isn't a servicible filter or screen. The diagram 14-47 is from the 4 cyl and NA V6. The diagram doesn't match procedures. The diagram shows the ATF Filter to be in the return line ATF Cooler (radiator) to the pan. Post if you have actually changed a filter or screen this transmission return line.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I found out, much to my amazement, that the 7th gen V6 automatic transmission does have an ATF filter. Even more amazing is that there is no mention of the filter in the Helm service manual (V6 supplement). This link shows the filter, and where it is.
    link title
  • I just bought a 95 Honda Accord LX. It has 159K miles and the timing belt was just replaced. I noticed after i had only had it about 3 days, that it is having trouble staying at just one speed. The D4 light is out and occassionally the D3 light goes out. I have read that this may be linked to my problem, but thats why I am here! It does shift a bit hard when I slow down then speed back up, but when i try to do a constant 40, for instance, it sounds like it cant just sit there. I hope this makes sense and any advice would help before I take it somewhere! Thanks :(
  • Link to better pics:
    http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17904
    Three large pics. No's 2 and 3 are V6 with Honda filter.
    The filter is about 3.5 inches diameter and 1.5 inches deep.
    Found it on my 05 V6 inboard and below the airbox.
    Looks to be a PITA to service.
    Inexplicable why Honda doesn't specify a service interval.
    Called Honda dealer Parts. First said no filter then after checking filter special order cost about $16.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I got the filter ($10.68) from Majestic, along with the o-ring and washers. It probably amounted to the same price after shipping. This is the link where I first found out about the V6 filter.
    http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13804
    Even the factory (Helm) Honda V6 supplement has no mention of the filter. It shows the part the filter sits in, but just calls it a fluid passage. Many Honda technicians don't even know about this filter. :confuse:
  • I looked at the filter setup again. The paper filter is encased in a spin housing and that's why an O ring is required. Without seeing the filter, it is likely the filter used in earlier model Honda's. About 2 inches dia by 2 inches H. I read an Odyssey blog on replacement. Difficult and did not desire to repeat. Accord has better access that area but will be difficult. Given the steel debris created normal operation I can't imagine why Honda doesn't call for periodic servicing. It may be that the filter will hold all of the debris to normal wear out of the tranny. I'm skeptical in that the filter will fill to restrict flow and contaminated fluid will be bypassed. Have you done the replacement?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I am planning to change the filter at 60k miles (less than 1000 to go). From the link I posted the filter is held in by a cover with three bolts. doesn't look hard to do, after the air box is removed. Tonyware (guy from the link) said at 100k miles his filter was rock solid from all the metal particles embedded in it. My filter should not be that contaminated, because I'm changing it at 60k miles, and I've been changing out 3 quarts of fluid every 15k miles. When I change it (probably in two or three weeks) I'll probably take pictures, and do a How to on it. Hope nothing goes wrong, :surprise: since there are no directions for this in the service manual. :(
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm glad I read about this, it reminded me I haven't had my transmission fluid changed (or brake fluid for that matter). My car is now exactly 3 years old, with 41,000 miles.

    Thanks for the reminder!

    :)

    TheGraduate
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The brake and trans fluid sound like a good idea to me. The 4cyl. automatics have been pretty reliable though. Have your brake pads been checked recently (especially the rear)? I don't trust those little wear indicators. Pads don't wear evenly, and the inside pad is usually worn more than the outside pads.
  • I look forward to the story and pics. As an initial cut, after removal of interference items, I would not remove the filter. Bolt to secure and unscrew the retainer cap to avoid removing hose clamps and hoses. Use paper towels to trap fluid surrounding area. I'm also interested in the amount of debris captured esp steel slivers. I estimate the hose size to be 1/2 inch. Is that correct?
    On brake fluid: My procedure is flush 5 years. I live in low humidity SCal. I plan on flush at independent Honda repair shop with Honda fluid. Honda fluid because that's what Honda specifies and ABS components are very expensive.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    No, haven't had them checked recently, but I'm pretty light on brakes I believe, especially that vehicle. My "in-town" car, the '96 Accord, has 54k on its current set of front pads (original rear shoes after 185k miles!), and it sees much more stop and go than my 2006 Accord, which goes on more highway trips (family 280 miles away gets a visit regularly).

    Now that you mention it, I think I did have them checked at the 30k mile service (at 29k). I added that to the list of items that the maintenance minder called for. I can't remember what they told me they had left, but I know they didn't suggest replacement.
  • 91301RAY004 O Ring (Base of container to cannister)
    91302RAY003 Filter Gasket (Interior filter to cannister outlet)
    25450RAY003 ATF Element
    The element is 2 5/8 inches in diameter by 1 3/4 inches high with a pressure relief valve built in for bypass. Shot glass sized and designed to strain out visible debris.
    Order from Majestic on line best. Outrageous local dealer cost but this time only.
    I'll use Magnefine next time pending inspection and beyond warranty. It is larger, has built in magnets and costs less.
  • Completed 11/23/08.
    As advertised nasty because of interference removal.
    Tips: Due to the spider web of bracket connected air and coolant lines air intake, remove intake from air filter/box end. There is enough clearance to wiggle the intake box out. Remove the battery hold down adjacent for box clearance.
    Caution the box has a wire standoff with bolt. Difficult to install and lost the bolt.
    The 6 o'clock filter body bolt has an interference line that can't be moved.
    Helped to have 1/4 inch driver with 10mm socket.
    The banjo bolt outlet from filter has washers both sides - take care not to drop the inner washer. I used a little blue RTV to tack. The outlet line is stiff and was difficult to start the bolt. Careful not to x thread.
    After test drive, I pulled the left side wheel to inspect (most of) the bottom of the filter and cleaned the half pint of dumped ATF from the frame.
    Filter was black at 27.8k miles. Normal. No steel or other debris and that's good.
    Next service 100k for filter with periodic drains to maintain ATF color.
    Has anyone seen the AT line out of the bottom of the radiator driver side? May be more accessible than buried in the engine compartment.
    What was Honda thinking??
  • Best effort and available information from Honda Service Manual is that this transmission doesn't have an ATF cooling system in the radiator. No lines and no schematics and I can't find lines. Cooling is the aluminum tranny and pan. Not a problem for me.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Filter was black at 27.8k miles. Normal. No steel or other debris and that's good.

    Your filter was black at only 27.8k miles? I am very interested in the condition of my filter. I just hit 60k miles, and I will be changing the filter over the holidays. I change out three quarts of fluid every 15k miles, so the fluid looks pretty clean to me when I check it. The guy who changed his filter at 100k miles said his filter was solid as a rock. Don't know if he ever changed the fluid though.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Bummer!! I've got 93k on my 02 v6 and don't have the skill set to do the ATF filter change. Let us know how your filter looks,Elroy. 1st NASCAR race 2/7/09.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I don't know about the filter on the 02 V6. If it's the same, or if it even has one. There seems to be very little information on these things. :confuse:

    At least I have Steelers' football to tide me over till the racing starts. :D
  • Rock Auto shows an inline A/T filter for the Gen 6 2002 Accord V6. Majestic doesn't show the same filter arrangement 2002 as it does for 2005 Gen 7. Majestic doesn't show any filter. Check with your Honda parts dealer and ask location. May be buried between subframe and transmission. Rock filter is $26.
  • 99 honda 5-speed transmission
    need help on removal, have removed two top bolts to the left of starter, both cv axles five bolts on bottom, undone fork cable, linkage taken aloose, trans mount on top, motor mount in front bracket bolts on rear of trans. but it is still binding at the top and won't slide out. does anyone have pics or suggestion really need to put clutch in asap
  • I have a year 2001 Honda Accord, currently having 89K miles on it. Lately, I started feeling the car was jerking when automatic gears were changing. On the inspection, it was found that transmission oil was leaking, and the Honda dealer came back with recommending to get the trasmission changed ($3.5K for parts and labor). I am debating what is the best option is

    1) Should I get changed with new Honda parts at the dealer? or at AAMCO?
    2) Should I have it changed with new Honda parts, but at a local repairshop?
    3) Should I try to install a USED transmission part at a local repairshop?

    #1 is probably most expensive and #3 is probably least. Some links on web suggested with #3 may result in repeated repairs, is that true?

    Also any thoughts on value proposition of trading-in the car versus donating it?

    Thanks,
    Andy
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