Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

1100101103105106164

Comments

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I've tried to answer before; let me give it another go.

    Another poster said to go to another dealer if possible. If the noise isn't obvious, tell them in as much detail under which condition it occurs (cold vs. warm engine, cold vs. warm outside temps, in gear vs. in Park or neutral, high speeds vs. low speeds, etc).

    Don't say it's a valve noise, because you really don't know.

    If the dealer says it's normal, then ask to drive one or more new or slightly used Camrys with a 4-cylinder and see if they do it also. If they do all do it, then it probably is normal.

    I haven't noticed any such noise from my '04 Camry 4-cylinder, but they run/ride so quietly that any slight noise can be noticeable.

    As Click and Clack would say, good luck!
  • niki1niki1 Posts: 52
    210,
    Yes I got your response on this issue a few weeks ago, and took some of your advice. I was told that this noise is caused by the solid lifters installed in the 2005 Camrys. What I'm asking is, are there any other owners of the 2005 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine experiencing a very noticeable tapping noise coming from the engine? This tapping noise is more noticable when the vehicle is in gear. Thanks for all your help 210. Much appreciated!!
    Thanks
    NIKI1
  • zone1zone1 Posts: 11
    I'll clean the lamps and sockets on the right side this weekend and let you know the result.

    But I don't understand why it will have any effect, since as I said, the signals work fine during the day. At night, when all the lights are on, the right turn signal flashes about twice as fast as it should.

    It may be as you suggest - that the connection with one of the bulbs is bad. But it just seems odd that the connection is only a problem at night. And I've actually been driving when the sensor shifted from day to night or from night to day. The change is immediate: if the car leaves night and goes to day, the signals work perfectly, even though just seconds before they were flashing too quickly. The opposite is true as well: I can be driving at dusk and the signals will work fine. But as soon as the car shifts over to night and turns on all the lights, the signals flash too fast.

    Anyway, I'll clean them and see what happens and report back.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Hmm, I'm pretty sure the 4-cylinder now uses hydraulic lifters, not solid (mechanical) lifters that need periodic adjustment. Here's what Car and Driver reported on the Camry 4-cylinder engine as installed in the Scion tC (from Car & Driver, August 2004):

    Magnesium cam cover
    Variable intake-valve timing
    Hydraulic valve lifters
    Electronic throttle control (by wire)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It does seem odd that the flashing rate changes when you go from bright to dark ambient light, but it won't hurt to clean the contacts and see what happens. You may want to even put in a new bulb while you're at it.
  • knapperknapper Posts: 1
    I have several wires broken between the drivers door & the body (Hinge area). The passager window will go down but not up. Should I try to replace the whole door harness or just splice the wire?? Also (I don't think it is related) the main dome light is shorting out every time I replace the bulb.
  • Hi Linda,

    I too bought a camry two months ago, an se v6. I too just noticed rust on pretty much the entire front gasket plate or whatever, and on that part only. It looks almost actively corrosive, like it is "bubbling" a little in areas.

    I guess it's warranty time at the dealer now.

    Chris
    Paramilitant
    JusticeNow.com
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Common problem. If it's like most cars, it's part of the main body wiring harness and you DON'T want to get into replacing that. Repair the broken wires. Twist, solder, heat shrink tubing, done.
  • hi
    i was changing my tires and the wheel screw broke off. does anyone know how to fix that or would i have to get a new piece and if so where?
  • commish1commish1 Posts: 30
    I have recently noticed that when I turn on my car that the "Maint Req" light flashes about 6 or 7 times. This is after all of the other lights that come on with the car go off. Has anyone else seen this problem or do I again have to go to my garbage dealer for this garbage car!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    This is not a ;roblem, but a reminder that the car is about to be due for an oil change. The light will stay on continuously once the 5000-mile mark is past since the last reset.

    Check your owner's manual for how to reset the light -- it's a simple procedure.

    The warning light was added because of the sludge problem a few years back, when some (many?) owners weren't changing their oil often enough.
  • jacy2jacy2 Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Camry LE, 4 Cylinder with 85,000 miles. In the past 6 months I have had four occasions where I started the car (not cold) and it died soon after starting. My mechanic put in fuel injector cleaner at the last oil change and a few days later I had problems again. I am concerned about the engine/sludge problem that I read about with the '97 Camry. I had always taken my car to the dealer for maintenance until I had a bad experience and now take it to my local mechanic who I trust more than the dealer. Any ideas? Do I need to do that engine flush that the dealer suggests?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If you have the oil changed often enough, you should not have the sludge problem. And considering you've made it to 85K miles, I seriously doubt sludge is the problem. A lot of the sludging occurred early in the cars' lives. Don't waste money on an engine flush, but by all means see your mechanic.
  • jacy2jacy2 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response. I have changed the oil every 3,000 miles, but I worry about what dealer recommendations I need to follow. They have been telling me for years that my oil pan gasket is starting to leak and that it would cost $200+ to replace. I garage the car and have yet to see a drop of oil on the floor. Thanks again.
  • Chris,

    We have a new 2005 Camry XLE that has (I think) the same rust problem you are describing. Not only the plate, the bolt shafts to which the nuts attach. The nuts themselves are not corroded, but the plate and bolt shafts are. (Sorry about the terminology, but since I don't have a specific enough manual to refer to properly name the parts involved, it's difficult to know if we're talking about the same thing. The plate runs pretty much parallel to the radiator but attached to the engine and mostly hidden or protected behind another molded plate that attaches in front of the rusted/corroded plate.

    Al
  • niki1niki1 Posts: 52
    210,
    I only know what the dealership is telling me, and that is that the 2005 4 cylinder Camry has solid lifters. How could I find out for sure? Maybe this is the problem, and they need adjusted? Thanks for all your help 210.

    NIKI1
  • Can anyone outline the procedure to remove & replace the radio from a 2002 to 2004 Camry LE ? Is there any security codes that I need to know about if I replace the radio in this model car ? Also, I noticed that the new 2005 Camry LE have audio controls in the steering wheel...will a radio from a 2002 Camry LE fit & work in a 2005 model (the 2005's don't have the cassette player as standard equipment) ?
    By the way, has anyone else noticed that sound quality of the standard 2005 Camry radio is much worse that the 2002-2004 model ?

    Thanks for your help.
    Rita
  • loucapriloucapri Posts: 214
    If you search this msg. board, I posted the same problem as you described. I have a 97 LE with 105K miles. Right after the engine started, it would die unless I put my foot on the gas to keep it running. As soon as I let my foot off, it would die.

    It happened on a warm sunny day. NOT cold too. I added a fuel injector cleaner myself (got it from costco, 4 for $10) I also switched to a higher octane gas for the next 2 tanks of gas, the problem was gone and now I switched back to regular gas. BUT I will start using the premium gas maybe after every 4 tanks of regular.

    It works for me, give it a try, it's easy and cost less. And so far (touch wood) I haven't seen the problem coming back yet.
  • loucapriloucapri Posts: 214
    Where is the rust you are seeing? Are you talking about the metal plate that on top/next to the engine with a 'no hand' sign?
    or somewhere under that plate? (exhaust)
    or a plate that in the engine? (the gasket)

    some corrosion is normal especially it's near a very hot area. I think there is different between rust and corrosion.

    corrosion looks like a tiny bubble and feel rough. You can find those (almost always) near the exhaust.

    You can ask your service manager next time when you take your car in. Besides, your 05 is still under coverage, just have them check it out.
  • My daughter just switched from a manual Honda to an automatic 92 Camry. When she depresses the brake while in drive, she can feel strong vibrations in the steering wheel and throughout the car. No trouble with driving or engine noise. Vibrations decrease to normal level when accelerator is pushed down or while in park. Is it just the transition to the Camry, or is it a tire / transmission problem?
  • if the problem is warped rotors, does any one have any experience with having this fixed, cost-wise? dealer projects 190-450 depending on length warped. can i get it done independently for cheaper?
  • Hi Al-

    The plate is flat, approximately 8 inches from left to right, and is vertically parallel to the radiator and mounted on the front of the engine. It looks like a steel gasket cover maybe. It has three non-rusted nuts along the top edge. I can see below in the left side another non-rusted nut on a rusted bolt. The view to the top three bolts is obstructed by the bulging stainless steel cover that is mounted over the front of the plate. The cover looks like some sort of heat shield.

    I see loucapri stated that parts that get hot rust faster but I've only had this car a month and a half and am around 3,500 miles, most of them highway. It just seems odd that everything else looks brand new and this one part (and the bolt I can see) are rusting. On closer examination in sunlight today I will say that it does not appear to be actively corroding. It is solid to the touch.

    I am trying to get the car in to the dealership but they are giving me a bit of the runaround on a specific time. They actually had a salesman contact me about buying a new car. I explained the situation and he said he would forward my email request for a service appt. but that was 2 days ago and no one has contacted me. So much for the convenience of online service scheduling...I'll keep you posted after I get the car examined by the dealer and thanks for the heads up on your situation.

    Chris
  • Chris

    It definitely seems like we're describing the same part. It does seem very strange to me that a vehicle with such low mileage would be showing such signs of rust on a given part so quickly (ours has close to 5,000 miles on it). We've got to bring our vehicle to the dealership soon because we have one window where the new tinting has some bubbles that have not gone away (we were told that any bubbles that remained in the tinting after more than a week or so should be reported back to them). That ought to give me a good opportunity to ask about the rust issue myself. Maybe we can compare notes on our mutual visits and responses.

    Al
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    You can almost certainly get the rotors turned or replaced cheaper by an independant shop. Whether they can be turned or not depends on how badly they are warped and if they have been previously turned.
  • kippikippi Posts: 16
    I'm in Los Angeles, about to buy a car, deciding between a 4cyl Camry LE automatic and the comporable Honda Accord. My previous cars have been Colorras (well, one was a Geo Prizm, basically a Corolla). I've got a few concerns that i'd be very grateful if Camry owners would be willing to address before I buy.

    1. Camry impressed me as comfortable and quiet, though the seat seemd a bit low on thight support. I'm a big guy, 6 feet, 270 lbs. Are you pleased with the comfort an isolation from road noise, and does it remain the dsame over the lidfe of the car, or is the car prone to develop rattles or other noise problems.

    2. On a short test drive, the 4cyl engine seemed sluggish, the handling vague, and the braking soft and slow. I'm not sure whether this is just because the car is different from what I'm used to, or whether these would remain frustrating aspects of the car.

    3. I have no garage and have to park on city streets, which means lots of parallel parking. How easy is the Camry to manipulate in city traffic?

    Your thoughts on any of the above will be greatly appreciated.
  • niki1niki1 Posts: 52
    Kippi,
    The brakes are very soft. You just need to push a little harder, and I'm use to it already. The ride is very quiet, and I can see where a big guy like yourself will have some troubles with the Camry, because of the head room, and the tight seats. I just got the Camry, and this is the first one I ever owned, so I can't comment on the ride and the noise question you possed. I owned a V6 before the Camry, and I'm very pleased with the way the 4 cylinder performs. Now to answer your parking question. I go my XLE with a spoiler and even if it didn't have a spoiler I'm sure this vehicle would still be hard to judge when backing in into a parking space, because the back end is so high. Hope this helps.
  • lucian95lucian95 Posts: 11
    Dear members:

    I would like to get an advice regarding the purchase of a high mileage Camry LE 1996 (4 cyl). The car has 160K miles and the seller is asking 3K. Before I even consider getting into the negotiations, I would like to get some advice whether I should stay away from such a high mileage Camry altogether. Also, what is a realistic price for a Camry with these many miles.

    Thanks a lot for your help,
    Lucian
  • I took my car (97 Toyota Camry) to my mechanic for an oil change. He told me that my oil and transmission pan gaskets needed to be changed. Being the newbie car owner, I had it done in addition to an oil change.

    Now, my car is leaking more oil. Is this something common after a change and then it will stop? I have to take my car back to him on Saturday for something he broke on the interior that he has to fix. I just need some assistance on how to approach him about this. My car was leaking some drops of oil but not nearly as much as after the change.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    Although the looks are deceiving, the Accord is actually slightly larger than the Camry but the difference is less than 1" for length and width. The Camry's extra 1.6" height makes it look larger I think.

    They also have about the same turning circle so parallel parking shouldn't be much different between the other other than possible visibility differences which I can't comment on. You should try parking each during your test drives.
  • clampitclampit Posts: 1
    The power front seat of my 04 Camry XLE is uncomfortable for me. It is too high, too confined and has too much lumbar support even with lumbar adjustment set at best position. Recently sat in an 03 Avalon seat and it felt great. Anyone know if I can replace the Camry seat with the Avalon seat ? In short, the Avalon seat feels like a luxury car while the Camry seat feels like an entry level vehicle to my body. Who should I turn to for help, as I have always gotten a purely legal answer from Toyota on such matters.
This discussion has been closed.