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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • markwindermarkwinder Posts: 1
    Yes, the same thing happen to me Monday, the dealership wants to charge $215 parts and labor. I feel the latch design is defective and Toyota should replace it. I feel this is a common problem.
  • The flex pipe itself can be replaced by a local muffler shop. I had a similar problem with my 97 LE. it is a different body style, but the exhaust systems are very much alike. Be sure to find a local shop, as opposed to corporate franchises. My local shop keeps the flex pipe part in stock as it is a relatively common problem. It cost me $120 + tax to have him cut away the old bad flex pipe and weld the new one in place. Works great now.

    I pondered doing it myself, but since I have little to no welding experience, thought better of it.

    Most importantly, do not replace the flex pipe with a fixed pipe as you will crack the manifold.

    Can't help with the other problems. Never had experience with them.

    Good luck.
  • 05camry33se05camry33se Posts: 67
    The break in period is said to be at least 500 miles.

    Also, I did get the rusty part in the engine looked at (discussed a couple pages back). It is the exhaust manifold and the dealer says they all look that way. Told me the steel heat shield is there to improve the look of the engine by covering it up.

    I noticed an increase in the tranny hesitation when I picked it up today from the dealer after having a horn sensor replaced, I hope someone there didn't hammer the accelerator too many times while it was there.

    Has anybody heard anything new regarding a fix for the hesitation of the "intelligent" tranny? Or tried the "pull the positive battery cable for 5 seconds" fix?

    -Chris
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    I have an 05 SE-V6 and an 04 Highlander V6, both with the 3.3 liter/5 sp powertrain. The hesitation on the HL is worse than the SE but to me, neither is bad enough to make me dislike the vehicle. As someone pointed out a while back, the driver can avoid most of the problems by managing the gas pedal inputs.
  • niki1niki1 Posts: 52
    Imac,
    Is this problem on the 6 cylinders only, or the 4 cylinders as well?
    Thanks
    NIKI1
  • cam2003cam2003 Posts: 131
    Not only Camry and HL have hesitation but also Lexus' car as well.
    It happens for all 5sp trans regardless of V6 or 4 cyl.
    The 4 cyl with 5sp Camry starts 2005, so I expect to see more people complain about this problem as volume ramps up.

    See under this linK
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef4cdbd!make=CATS&model=Transmission&ed_make- - - - index=.ef4cdbd
  • niki1niki1 Posts: 52
    Cam,
    Man that's a whole lot of info from that link you provided, and as far as me understanding some of the comments, sorry I'm not an engineer LOL. I have a 2005 4 cyl. Camry 5 speed auto, and have not expierianced this hesitation issue yet. The vehicle has 1000 miles on it, and my question is does this occur when you floor the gas pedal only?
    Thanks
    NIKI1
  • moeharrimoeharri Posts: 108
    I'm guessing you may soon experience the problem (I've had it the whole time I've owned the car, now about 6k miles), as I have the 4cyl as well (2005). It happens to me in the same location every day because of how the road is set up. I come to a yield sign that I have to slow down for on a curve so I can see if anyone is coming. As soon as I see no one is coming, I go back to the gas pedal and it kind of does nothing for about 1 second (not sure exactly how long) and then I kind of jerk into the turn. It's not as bad as it may seem, but I'd be happier if it didn't do it. I still love the car though, it seems to be getting better and better, especially the gas mileage (which I calculate myself, not with the trip computer).
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    "my question is does this occur when you floor the gas pedal only?"

    The situation typically occurs when you slow from around 40 mph to maybe 15-20 mph like when you are turning a corner or coming up on a line of traffic. If you try to accelerate briskly, the transmission seems to hesitate before it downshifts. Sometimes it's just barely noticeable and other times quite obvious. To me, it's not bad enough to get upset about but rather only mildly annoying.
  • niki1niki1 Posts: 52
    Moe and Imac,
    Thanks for the info, and yes I agree don't get upset, and don't sweat the small stuff, but we must ask ourselfs three questions. 1. Is this a safety concern? 2. Is this a non-conformity? 3. Will this problem affect the resale of the vehicle? If you answered yes to one of these questions then friends we all got lemons on our hands. I just got ride of a lemon, and don't want to go through that process ever again, but I will if I have to. Lets all understand that Toyota too produces lemons too. Good Luck All.
    Thanks
    NIKI1
  • dekesterdekester Posts: 322
    Rearing it's ugly head again, I see.

    Had the wife's 03 LE V6 checked out and on two test drives - one with tech driving, other with me - got it to happen as described above.

    The "issue" is the accelerator needs to be used with a light touch. If you stomp it too hard and catch the tranny at a shift point, the computer is temporarily confused, forces a downshift (as if you were passing on the highway) and then once the pedal position is fed in, then it upshifts.

    Since I learned to drive with a light foot, there have been NO problems whatsoever.

    When I get behind the wheel of my 1970 440 Road Runner, well, that's a different story! Pedal to the metal!

    Deke
  • lbaileylbailey Posts: 2
    I BOUGHT A 2001 CAMRY BACK IN 2002 FROM A TOYOTA DEALERSHIP. I THOUGHT I WAS GETTING A GREAT DEAL. A USED CAR WITH LOW MILEAGE LESS THAN 20K. IT HAD BEEN A RENTAL. I NOTICED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMING ON DAY AFTER I BOUGHT IT. I TOOK IT BACK & THEY SAID IT WAS A COMPUTER SENSOR & REPLACED IT. THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON AGAIN WITHIN A WEEK. THEY TOLD ME IT WAS STICKING NOTHING TO WORRY ABOUT.NOW I FIND OUT THE INDICATOR LIGHT STAYING ON IS JUST A START. READ THE LINK BELOW. IT WILL BLOW YOUR MIND!
    http://yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html

    http://yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html
  • lbaileylbailey Posts: 2
    THIS LINK TELLS OF HEADGASKETS BLOWING & OIL LEAKS.
    toyota is repairing some 1997-2002 camrys
    http://yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html
  • mearleymearley Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Solara, having 2 problems. I have an obnoxious rattle coming from the moon roof when closed. I have to keep the shade shut to muffle it but I can still hear it. I also have what I believe to be the dashboard trim rubbing against itself at the seams-I only hear it when I hit bumps. Other times I don't hear it all. It's driving me nuts! Anyone have a similiar issue? :mad:
  • chrismchrism Posts: 3
    I have a 04 XLE and they do not have auto headlights on this model. Why i do not know. They do on the cheaper models, it makes no sense. It does have the sensor on the dash. The auto feature only turns the lights off after 30 seconds or 2 beeps of the lock button with the remote after you get out of the car. Maybe the 05 models are different? Chris
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    I thought there was a TSB for the moonroof rattle....check with your dealer. Funny, someone just posted how few rattles posts there were with the 04/05 Camry's.
  • mortysnerdmortysnerd Posts: 1
    My left turn signal flashes fast about 75% of the time (it comes and goes) while my right turn signal flashes normally 100% of the time.

    Both left turn signal bulbs have been replaced. Both times, it started flashing normal for a while only to return to flashing fast 1-2 weeks later.

    I've been told that on the 1999 Camry's, there is a breaker switch that is faulty and that this is a common problem on 1999 and 2000 models only.

    - Has anyone else seen this?
    - How hard of a repair is this to do myself?

    Thanks!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Your lucky day -- I've had this problem myself and here's what I advised in post #3160 (4/5/05):

    The other problem (rapidly flashing turn signals) is caused by poor electrical contact between the front turn signal bulb and its socket, if the bulb still functions as you indicate.

    Remove the bulb from the socket, use a rough rag to wipe off the bulb's contacts and a pencil eraser to gently clean the socket terminals. To get to the bulb, see your owner's manual. This will work temporarily; based on my experience in a 97 Camry with the same turn signals, the problem will return eventually.


    You may also want to gently pull up the socket terminals with a pair of tweezers to ensure firmer contact between the bulb and socket.
  • plytleplytle Posts: 1
    I have a '96 or '97 Toyota Camry. Recently it began clicking even after the turn signal had returned to its starting position. About two days ago it began clicking, as though I was turning, continuously. The turn signal is still operating normally and the lights still work but the clicking does not stop. Any ideas?
  • 96 Camry 4 cylinder with 196K miles. Recently had the head replaced in a local garage. Also replaced some other parts: all belts, radiator, water pump, had a hole in a freeze plug, and fuel filter. It was running very well after having the head replaced, but broke down one day. Everything in the car had power, but the engine won't turn over. Had it towed to a garage where they couldn't find the problem. Was able to start it again and got it home, where it broke down again and won't start again. Everything still has power..all battery connections are clean. Any ideas?
  • motownusamotownusa Posts: 836
    Could be the spark plugs. How old is the battery? It could be the battery doesn't have enough amps left to crank the ignition but has enough for the stereo,windows, and lock.
  • Forgot..it also has a new battery and we've tested it with another charged battery as well...doesn't seem to be a battery issue.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    I don't own a Camry, however have this comment which could apply to any car. If your engine actually doesn't turn over, it could be you have a bad starter or the relay that powers the starter is not kicking in. Rebuilt starters are usually cheap and easy to replace on most vehicles, though I am sure a dealer will set you back a couple hundred or more to change it out.

    If your starter engages and the engine actually turns over but does not fire, then you have some sort of fuel problem or you are not getting spark to your plugs.
  • Forgot more detail...we also can't get the engine to turn over by manually turning the crankshaft.
  • Did you get a resolution to this yet? My problem sounds VERY similar to yours...mine is post 3335.
  • r0de099r0de099 Posts: 35
    I have a 95 camry.The problem i have right now is every i step on the break the steering wheel and break pedal is shaking.Somebody said that maybe my rotor
    is warped if really that is the problem what kind of service i need for this so i have an idea before i take it to the mechanic are they gonna ask me to replace the pads also?Because the pads are still new.Can they just fix the rotor without replacing the pads?I just need some advice.THANX...
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    Yes, you can replace (or resurface) the rotors without replacing the pads. If the rotor has never been turned (resurfaced), they may be able to do this if it isn't worn too much.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,534
    If rotor is warped to any degree, unless the quality of rotors is superb, I think you'd be better replacing two rotors with a quality brand rotor rather than putting money into turning one or both. My experience has been once a rotor has warped, it warps again more easily; sort of like a tire with a bad belt it will never be true again.

    Are the Toyota rotor's up to turning or is replacing with a good heavy aftermarket rotor a better way to go on a car you're planning to keep another XX K miles?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    ... should be fine as replacements. No need to go to the aftermarket. In my '97 Camry 4-cylinder, the front brake pads lasted until just shy of 110K miles, and I never had any trouble with warped rotors. I sold the car just 1000 miles later to get my '04 Camry.

    On the other hand, the brakes started shuddering due to rotor warpage at only 17K miles on my '90 Mercury Sable.
This discussion has been closed.