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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I'd assume, without knowing more, that there's something amiss with the security system.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I don't know how much it would cost. Perhaps your best bet is to call a few repair shops in your area and find out that way.

    But also keep in mind that the problem may NOT be the sway bar bushing. When you take the car to the shop, you should just describe the symptoms in as much detail as possible and let them figure out what the cause is.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,011
    This article may be helpful for you.

    Getting Some Lemon-Aid From Your Lemon Maker

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    More information is needed. I assume you bought a new Camry. I never bother with extended warranties, figuring they're a waste of money for reliable cars like the Camry.

    It wouldn't surprise me that rentals aren't covered for relatively minor issues like rattles where the car wouldn't have to be kept overnight. Is this a Toyota extended warranty or one supplied by an aftermarket company?

    Could you arrange for a friend or co-worker to pick you up when you leave the car for service? Does the dealer offer a free shuttle service to in-town locations?
  • yes, i bought a new carmy LE 10days ago, and bought the extended warranty at the same time. this warranty is bumper to bumper one and includes the rental and road services.

    I thought if the rental is free, why not use it instead of bothering friends to pick me up.

    the rattling is not biggie, but i wouldn't expect a 10 day old car has this.
  • I just bought a 2000 toyota camry last week...I had it checked out by my mechanic and he said it was in good shape and there wasn't anything wrong with it...I noticed a couple of days ago that when I first turn on the car the check engine light, battery light and another light that looks like water dripping out of something light up, they dont stay lit but they light up briefly when the car is turned on....now I admit I know absolutely nothing about cars and I dont know if this is normal or if there is something wrong with my...it has been driving fine and there is nothing else to make me supsect something is wrong...
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    When you're turning on a Camry, most of the indicator/warning lights light up for a moment just to make sure they're all working. That is not an indication that there is anything wrong, just the opposite. If you have any of the lights come on other than just when you turn it on, you want to look into them more closely.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • slim2slim2 Posts: 20
    I bought a used 02 Camry LE 4 cylinder with 30,000 miles and the previous owner has not change the coolant or transmission fluid. Does anyone know at what mileage they should be changed ?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I don't know about the 2002 specifically, but for the 2004 and 2005, the coolant used is Toyota Super Long Life and doesn't need to be changed for 5 years or 105,000 miles.

    The transmission fluid on 2004 and 05 models does not have to be changed at all if your car is not used under Toyota's "Special Operating Conditions." See your owner's and maintenance manuals for more information. If you don't have the manuals, ask a Toyota dealer, but be firm and make sure they give you the factory recommendations.
  • fredsonfredson Posts: 1
    I have the 1995 Camry Lumiere with 1.8 engine 4 cyl. auto with climate control system, on the start a/c works very good then after some time getting less & less cooler on the end just blowing normal air but the compressor still engage and looks like that some device just by passing the system, another problem observe
    is when you leave the car under the sun for sometime and when you want to use the a/c after starting specially noon time a/c does not work but the compressor again is engaged ,Icould not figure out who controls this trouble some sensor?
    thermostat?? bring to one A/C shop but could not find as well the problem.
    Traveling in the long distance a/c works little bit longer than in city driving .
    Needs help disperately :cry:
  • Hey!!! I have a 2005 Camry SE. Does anyone know where to get the LED flashing lights on the side view mirror???? I need ASAP thanks!!! SOmething like this Image hosted by Photobucket.com but in silver !!!!!">
  • ricareyricarey Posts: 25
    I could be the IAC valve. Sometimes this can be remedied by cleaning it out w/ throttlebody cleaner. I would try to clean it first and see if the idle improves, otherwise you may need to replace it. For a '99 it costs a little over 200 for the part and about an hour or so of labor. The mechanism of the IAC valve gets all dirty and eventually doesn't work properly. Another method is just to give the car gas when you start it...which is fine for those not using remote start. If you don't mind treating your car like it has a carburetor that's a decent solution.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    yes as toyotaken has indicated, the fact that the indicators come on and go off during the start cycle is a good thing. imagine a warning indicator that doesn't light when there's a real problem, because there is something wrong with the indicator!!! it wouldn't serve much purpose would it?

    since you admit to not knowing much about cars, my sincere suggestion would be to look in the glove box for an owner's manual for the vehicle and if you find it, take some time in a quiet place to read it cover to cover.

    since your 2000 is used and the owner's manual may be absent from the vehicle, i'd recommend that if it cannot be located, hat you either contact the manufacturer or you perform a google search to see where you might purchase one for a reasonable price.

    some people may believe it isn't necessary to read their manual and perhaps only consult it when there seems to be a problem...

    to fully understand your vehicle and to be prepared for signs of trouble, you can't go wrong thoroughly familiarizing yourself with the purpose behind each dash indicator, the recommended maintenance intervals, location of various fluids, etc.

    an owner's manual isn't expensive, and reading it could save you many multiples of its cost over the period of your ownership. consider also that your safety and the safety of your passengers may come down to your recognition of a problem, or proper maintenance of your vehicle based on what you learn from the book.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Did you call 9-1-1? ;) Sounds like a true emergency here!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Couldn't agree more about reading the owner's manual. That warning light with what looks like water drops coming out of a container is your low oil pressure warning light. (It's supposed to depict oil dispensed from an old-fashioned container.)

    It that light ever comes on while driving (not on startup), you had best stop the engine as soon as possible or you will be looking at an engine replacement!
  • rdavis4rdavis4 Posts: 1
    My AC works fine for about 2 minutes when I start my car, then it shuts down and the light starts flashing on the button. After i shut the car off and turn it back on, it works fine again for about 2 minutes. Please help?????
  • storm4storm4 Posts: 1
    Wife drives an 02 camry (4cyl)

    It smokes for a few seconds (out the tailpipe) at startup.

    Large light blue/white cloud that has dissipated by the time she backs out of the garage.

    Why is it doing this?

    Thank you very much, you fellers seem nice and smart.
  • I have a 98 camry LE with 4 cylinders. I want to replace the spark plug by myself. The problem is I can't find the spark plug torque specification. The Haynes maual says it should be 13 ft/lb. The Denso double platinum I bought says it should be 15-22 ft/lb. And my owner' manual doesn't say anything. Which number should I follow?

    Another questions is whether I need to use anti-seize. Some sources suggest it is a bad idea because it would mess up the torque.

    I am new to maintenance. Any help is appreciated.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Valve stem seals.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "Which number should I follow?"

    Use the spark plug manufacturer's specs.

    "Another questions is whether I need to use anti-seize."

    Absolutely not.
  • lma52lma52 Posts: 1
    I've done numerous tuneups on many cars for the past 35 years. When tightening a spark plug, torque is not as important as properly seating the metal gasket against leaks. Most plug mfrs. recommend about 1 to 1-1/4 past hand tight (zero clearance, or when the gasket first touches the metal seat). If you tighten 15-22 ft-lb per Denso it should be fine. You can check this by tightening with one hand while standing normally without bearing down on the socket wrench, you shouldn't need to do more than this. I would also use anti-seize (small amount enough to lightly and evenly coat the threads) as it will be easy to remove the plug later. The anti-seize should not affect the torque.
    Regards,
    LMA52
  • Just bought a used 2003 Camry last night. The car didn't come with an Owners Manual and I have a couple of questions regarding the headlight and DRL operation. I'm sure this car has the Auto headlight feature but I can't seem to figure out how to enable it. The control stick on the left side of the steering wheel has several different settings that you can select. There's DRL, DRL Off, Lights and maybe another. When I select DRL and it is dark, only the running lights come on. If I select Lights and it's dark, the lights come on but so not shut off when I shut off the car. Can anyone tell me how these things work? I traded in a Pontiac that had this feature and I don't believe I ever changed the setting - thanks
  • If you have the auto headlights, all the way forward should be auto headlights with DRL (DRL all the time, and headlights when it is dark enough). The lights will turn off after a few minutes (I think 5) after you have gotten out and locked your car.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "When tightening a spark plug, torque is not as important as properly seating the metal gasket against leaks"

    Unless it's a tapered seat plug.

    "Most plug mfrs. recommend about 1 to 1-1/4 past hand tight (zero clearance, or when the gasket first touches the metal seat)."

    Which would guarantee the plug would snap or pull the threads out of the cylinder head.

    "I would also use anti-seize (small amount enough to lightly and evenly coat the threads) as it will be easy to remove the plug later."

    Most vehicle manufacturers specifiy no coatings on plug threads because it can adversely affect the heat transfer characteristics of the plug, causing it to run hot and promote pre-ignition. Most times a stuck plug isn't caused by thread bind, it's caused by carbon buildup on the end of the plug threads protruding into the combustion chamber. A dose of combustion chamber deposit cleaner such as GM Top Engine Cleaner takes care of it. Weekend warriors and hacks like to use anti-sieze on the threads based on the mistaken assumption that it'll make removal easer later on.

    Here's a quote from the '99 GM G Platform manual:

    UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or components, or fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener or component torque and clamping force, and may damage the fastener/component.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I agree totally with alcan on not using anti-seize on spark plugs.

    Toyota's own spec for the spark plug torque (I had a '97 Camry 4-cylinder) was 13 ft-lbs. Obviously, if you go with the lower end of the Denso recommendation (15 ft-lbs.), it won't be much different.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yikes! This is the first time I've heard this happen with the newly designed 4-cylinder, which was first used on the 2002 models. Alcan is right -- it's the valve stem seals.

    I had the problem happen twice on my '97 Camry, the first time at 57K miles (repaired under warranty) and again at 102K miles (did not repair, sold with disclosure on eBay at 111K miles).

    Oil in the top of the engine (under the valve cover) seeps down through the worn, hardened valve stem seals into the cylinders overnight. When you start the car in the morning, the oil is burned, resulting in the blue cloud.

    If your car is out of warranty (5 years / 60K miles), isn't noticeably consuming oil, and doesn't smoke at other times, I wouldn't worry about it. I don't think you'll have a problem with emissions testing at this point (if you have such testing).

    And I thought Toyota had solved this problem with the new engine!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If your car doesn't have auto headlights (I think only the XLE model had them that year), then the 4 switch positions are as follows:

    DRL off: no lights at all (not recommended)
    DRL: only the daytime running lights are illuminated when engine running and parking brake off. The DRLs are the high beams operating at a lower intensity.
    Parking lights: DRLs plus parking lights and taillights are illuminated
    Headlights: Headlights plus parking lights and taillights are illuminated (DRLs are off). Normal high beams are selected by pushing lever away from you.

    If you leave the switch in the headlights-on position when you exit the car and remove the key, all lights will automatically turn off after 30 seconds (but seems forever). You should not do this if the car is to be left for more than a week (could run down the battery).
  • newbertnewbert Posts: 4
    I have a '92 Camry V6 XLE. When I'm driving and it redlines it acts like it doesn't know what to do. It starts to shift then it hesitates. If I let off the gas just a bit it will easily shift into the next gear. This is an automatic mind you.

    Anyone had a similar problem, or have any insight in what it maybe?

    Other than that I have no porblem with the car what so ever. It runs great. As long as I let off the gas just a bit before redline I can avoid the problem. It only has 105,000 on it. Please help me.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Is this a new problem, or has it always done this?

    If I may ask, why are you revving an automatic to redline?

    Seems to me the easiest solution is to do what you've been doing - ease off the gas before redline.

    Beyond that, I do not know what may be causing this problem.
  • snhoj2usnhoj2u Posts: 4
    Will, those black boxes, as you call them, are the coils. You will see 3 of them. Each coil fires a front and a rear plug on your V-6. The smaller wire you see is the trigger mechanism so that the plugs fire with the correct timing. If you remove the coil you'll find the plugs located underneath...simple, clean, and efficient.

    Be careful when you remove the plastic clips going to the rear plug wires from the coils as they break easily.
This discussion has been closed.