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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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  • yeah, they arguement is in the glue used to connect the pleates to the cardboard end caps vs. better end caps for the other brands. I've used frams a very long time and even have used some advanced auto filters (2.50 each or sometimes buy one get one free) and they're made by fram. I've never had an engine problem from a fram but with my new honda and new camry, I only buy purolators (pep boys brand is made by purolator and is a little cheaper). napa's made by wix are good but I haven't bought any of those yet as they are higher priced. Thanks again for the discussion.
  • I have a 2002 Camry XLE, 40K miles. About six months ago, the driver's door lock failed to work with the key fob or master door lock control; it would only lock manually. My mechanic could fix it only by replacing the door lock/latch assembly, about $350. Then one month later, the same thing happened to the front passenger lock. Another $350... Everything is working fine now, but I have two more doors. :-) The mechanic had not seen this with the current generation of Camrys. Has anyone else had this happen? Was there some fix other than replacing the whole latch & lock assembly? It seemed odd to have this happen to two different doors over a one-month period. (FYI, I have an excellent independent shop that did this work, so I don't doubt their work.)
  • The rotors were turned and the pads were replaced after 8 months of squeeling. They continue to squeel. I've given up!

    Thanks for your help.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    I think Toyota oil filters labled, "Made in USA", are also sourced from Purolator. Purolator Filters' parent company, ArvinMeritor, is a supplier to a number of foreign and domestic auto manufacturers in the U.S. OEM market. In most cases these are simply relabled Purolator PremiumPLUS oil filters, but in some cases they're manufactured to the individual contractor's specifications. Pep Boys' "ProLine" oil filters are relabled Purolator PremiumPLUS oil filters sold at a sensible price.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,464
    Do you have any links and data to show the the PepBoys oil filter are exactly the same as the Purolator PremiumPlus filters.

    Another store loves to say their product is the same item as a brand name transmission filter. I'll buy the Purolator and put it in MY car, thank you. How do you know there is not a quality shortcut taken to reduce the manufacturing cost?
  • have 2002 4cyl Camry which pulled to right since new. alignment at 22k miles failed to correct so rotated front tires at tire dealer suggestion and still pulled no matter what kind of road. dealer said Camrys are very subject to "camber steer" in other words they follow the crown or slope of road. changed from low quality (worn out at 25k miles) Goodyear Intergity tires to Falken Ziex ZE 512 tires and car still pulled right. Ziex tires replaced under warranty at 4k miles! due to uneven wear. replaced with Michelin HydroEdge and I love the improvement!!! NO PULLING - steers dead straight. fabulous in Florida's heavy rain. very tight sporty road feel and steering. Camry OEM tires are junk and won't steer straight.
  • alp2alp2 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 camry 4 cylinder with 190k kilometres on it - this car has been babied by me - I am the original owner. Oil and filter changed religiously every 3000 kilometres , car is tuned regularly and it has never been overheated, belts changed on time and valves were done at about 150 k kms. Most of mileage is highway. I was driving at 120 kms per hour (70 mph) - temperature was 30 degrees centigrade (90 degrees fahrenheit) suddenly heard a ticking , slowed down to about 5 kph and then the engine seized. Has anyone else run into a similar problem - dont expect this to happen to an engine which has been well maintained.
  • This is just a theory but has your timing belt been replaced during this time? 190,000kilometers is almost 120,000 miles and if the timing belt has not been changed it very well could be the belt snapping.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Unfortunately on the lower line Camrys (Standard and LE), cheap tires like the Goodyear Integrity are used. The XLE uses either Michelin (treadwear rating = 400) or Bridgestone Potenza (treadwear rating = 160). Guess which ones I have on my 2005? :(

    But since I have steel wheels, and most XLEs don't, I didn't trust the dealer to swap the tires off the rims when I bought the car, so I'm hoping for the best. They do handle fine, however.

    BTW, the '04 Camry LE I gave my son had the Goodyears, and I didn't have any problems with them. But before he drove off for CA, I replaced them with virtually new Hankook Optimo tires I got for a good price at work (treadwear about 380, traction A, temperature A).
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    He said he replaced the belts, which I assume includes the timing belt. Why a bearing failed I guess is the luck of the draw.
  • Hey,

    Yet again my 1995 Camry 2.2 LE has a problem. We recently (about 2 months ago) put a new radiator in it. Now with 171k it is leak power steering fluid to the point where it goes through a reservoir a day. What could this be and is it gonna be expensive. There is a leak that I saw one day while changing my breaks on the driver side. It was a drip but must have gotten worse. What is it???? THANKS IN ADVANCE and Happy Motoring!!!!!
    :sick:
  • The inside release lever was working fine, then abruptly would no longer open the trunk. Remote fob opener works fine. Is this a cable adjustment, or is it perhaps electrical? Would appreciate any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and repair. Thank you!
  • I have a friend who has a 2000 Camry LE 6 cylinder with 15-inch tires and rims. The rims are oxidizing. They shouldn't oxidize because they are alloyed rims. Why are they oxidizing?
  • Did you ever figure out your High idle at start up. I have the same thing and I have replaced the temp sensor and totally cleaned the throttle body including the IAC valve but nothing helps. Still 1800 rpm until warm.
  • Can anyone help with a high idle at start up that last about 5 min. I have cleaned the throttle body,cleaned the IAC, and replaced the temp sensor. Still get 1800+ RPM until warm up. (96 V6 Avalon) I also tested the TPS.
  • Please switch to 87, Your camry does not know the difference, If you feel the change it may be time for a minor tune up or timing set.
  • not an expert in metallurgy but I'd assume with the right conditions, any metal will form it's oxide or oxidize. Maybe the protective surface was removed with age and or chemicals and that opened the door to oxidation.
  • go to car talk and search for oil filters. I'm sure you'll come up with loads of discussions. There's a link to it. Go to http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html and find a study where they tore apart the filters and rated based on construction. That study gives fram a bad rap and loads of loyal fram users balked. He states that the pep boys is just a purolator premium plus (the white filter not the blue, more expensive one). as to cutting costs??? He didn't see any from his comments.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,464
    Thanks. I've been buying Puro, I'll pick up the PepBoys next time.

    The oil guy website IIRC determined the Fram was smaller in area for the filtration. So it filled up with fine particles more quickly.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    "Oil and filter changed religiously every 3000 kilometres , car is tuned regularly and it has never been overheated, belts changed on time and valves were done at about 150 k kms. Most of mileage is highway. I was driving at 120 kms per hour (70 mph) - temperature was 30 degrees centigrade (90 degrees fahrenheit) suddenly heard a ticking , slowed down to about 5 kph and then the engine seized. Has anyone else run into a similar problem - dont expect this to happen to an engine which has been well maintained."

    I agree absolutely with you. (if my conversion math is right, 3,000 Km is 1,800 miles - a very short oil change interval) If the timing belt let go, and IF the Camry's I-4 engine is an "interference" design (one in which open valves will contact the piston towards the top of its travel) the top end would've been torn up, not the main bearings in the bottom end. Main bearings seize for one reason and one reason only: insufficient oil pressure. As you might expect, the repair will be expensive. The real question is why would there be insufficient oil pressure to the mains in a well maintained engine? It turns out that early through mid-nineties Toyota V-6 and I-4 Camry engines had insufficient oil return from the head(s) and tended to pool oil "upstairs". Coincidentlally these engines tended to sludge up, further exacerbating the problem - and earned the nickname "sludge monsters". In short, it wasn't your fault! It was an engineering/production oversight. (Yep, it can even happen with Japanese engineering, though it's a rarity.) Toyota eventually provided a fix for new production in the form of larger oil return gallies back to the sump, and would fix customer cars out of warranty on a case-by-case basis. In the U.S. at least. But, I don't have any information about "secret warranties" over this issue for Canadian owners. Nevertheless, I strongly urge you to contact a Toyota dealership to discuss the matter. If you kept receipts for materials and maintenance at the proper or more frequent intervals, you could well have a basis for a rebuilt short block and installation labor charges on Toyota. Even lacking the documentation, you should still pursue the matter. Best of luck. Google "bobistheoilguy" and do a search on "Toyota sludge monsters". (Prepare yourself to read a LOT of posts.)
  • Please let me know if you get an answer to this question. I have done extensive searching on the web, and have not been able to find an answer to this question. My husband has a Dodge Dakota, and his manual told him how to disengage the beep. I saw where someone else posted this question on another site and was just berated for not wearing his seat belt. I am not wanting it disengaged because I don't wear my seat belt. In fact, I am the person that gets on any friends of family I see not wearing their seat belt. I often make deliveries in my neighborhood of newsletters and whatnot. I get in and out of my car several times, and each time I have to hear that annoying beep going off. I absolutely LOVE my Camry, but that beep is so annoying I would have to say it would affect me purchasing another one. Does anyone know how to disengage the seat belt beep or chime, or whatever you want to call it?
  • Hi, I purchased a 1996 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, 4 door back in May. I did not realize that it had a theft alarm system until one day I was reading the information on the windows. Under the dash to the left of the driver's side is a toggle switch. However, I have no clue as to how this system works. I took it to the Toyota Dealership in my city and the mechanic told me that if I cut the switch on and the red light is on it means that the system is disarmed. My question is, How can you tell if the system is working or not. I always thought that if the light is on, it means it's working . Can somebody please help me? :confuse:
  • 94 Camry V6 - Had trouble adding oil to oil inlet after oil change. Wouldn't flow in very fast. Found a lot of carbon particles in the oil inlet. What's going on?
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    It's called sludge* - and you got real trouble. Engine sludging in early to mid-90s Toyotas and some lower end Lexis models was an all-too-often problem - especially for owners who followed the semi-extended oil change intervals Toyota recommended for "normal service" driving (7,500 miles I believe). Toyota is aware of and has acknowledged the problem and offers owners of affected cars a fix - including a replacement engine if necessary. Get your car to a Toyota dealer and inform the service department immediately, if not sooner. If the dealer balks (some of them claim they're unaware of the defect or the warranty extension), contact Toyota USA directly. The contact infromation is in your owner's manual.

    *Engine sludge (or the more correct engineering term, "oil gelling") is a witch's brew of partially oxidized fuel and motor oil insolubles held together by a sticky mass of varnish and acids that form from overused oil and moisture condensation - literally a cruddy, gritty, grease-like consistency, but it's absolutely no good as a lubricant. Hot running engines and/or engines with inadequate oil return gallery diameter are especially subject to this problem. Toyota's engineers miscalculated on the oil return issue. Consequently, oil tends to pool in the cylinder head(s) where it merrily "cooks" from the high heat there. (the cylinder heads are where the fire is made) When the issue was identified, Toyota made a running production change that allowed for enhanced oil return from the head(s) back to the oil pan. Late 90s and later engines have been typically Toyota reliable.
  • I have a 1997 Camry with only 68,000 miles and it started having the blew smoke come from the tail pipe everytime I started the egnition. One day while the car was idle in the drive way, the engine blew up and pieces fell to the floor. I had :cry: the car towed to 355 Toyota and they informed me at first that the piston rode went thru the engine. They took the car apart and then said that the 3rd cylinder connecting rod bolt come loose and fell inside the motor causing the engine to cease. That there were no signs of oil buildup. I am not convinced because when I asked what would cause the bolt to come loose he stated that it could be because there wasn't enough lubrication. To me that means that oil wasn't getting to parts it was supposed to. The dealer wants $7,200 to repair the car. The Blue Book value is only $7,155. What can I do?
  • I also have a 99 camry with134,000 miles on it that vibrates on the hwy between 65-80mph. The vibration is intermittent. 1 out of 5 times it happens. tires are balanced wheels are aligned bearings and struts are good. Usually after I stop and leave the car sitting for a while it corrects itself. When I stopped into the dealer an owner of a 2000 camry says he has the same problem. I can drive the car for a week trouble free and then it reoccurs. Any suggestions I'm stumped
  • The 99 camry vibration feels like its coming from the right front. The steering wheel just shakes.
  • Would your situation come under the engine gel warranty? See message #3954, just above your message. Did you get a letter from Toyota as I did? Call Toyota USA. Don't give up.
  • Are the wheels round? Some are not.
  • I had a serious Power steering fluid leak and my independent mechanic replaced a long, twisted hose that wraps around the engine. He says it is the first thing to fail in a Camry. He replaced it and then the pump leaked. He said this is typical also. He replaced the pump. This is the only repair I have had on my 97 and he said probably nothing else will bother me and so far, it hasnt.
This discussion has been closed.