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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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  • Having the same experience with my Camry as well. I thought it was just in my head untill I had someone else drive it and he felt it too. I took it back to the dealer and had the "technician" drive it. Ofcourse he drove it like a maniac! I was in the car with him and every time he would mash the accelarator. I finally told him to drive like a human! Anyway, I feel the same way you do. Love the car, great power, smooth ride, I have the navigation package...the car is great, just need to smooth out the trans. I have had the reprogramming done and I felt no change. I also get a slipping sensation between first and second. But sometimes the trans shifts just fine and smooth, which is why I am not buying the whole "it is designed that way" excuse. I will let you know if I get any solutions. I plan on calling the dealer tomorrow.
    Jay
  • I have a 1992 Camry with 157+k. About a week and a half ago, I first noticed the power steering sticking. When I turn the wheel, I meet more resistance than usual but only at certain points in the turn. Also, it doesn't always turn back to center without my manual assistance. The problem seems the worse in the morning and gets relatively better as I drive the car more during the day. I would appreciate any ideas of what the problem could be. Thanks.
  • My 1997 Camry overheated on me the other day, when i went to look for thermostat I could not find it. Can anyone tell me the location of it or share any other ideas of what could of caused overheating? All replys would be greatly appreciated.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Check the PS fluid level and whether the pump drive belt is loose*. But at that car's age and mileage, the pump and/or the rack may be taking a dump, too.

    *The standard "rule of thumb" (literally) is to press the PS pump belt midway between pulleys. If the belt can be deflected more than the width of your thumb, it's not tensioned sufficiently.
  • 2001 Toyota Camry XLE, 105,000 km. V6 loaded. I have experienced starting problems after the engine is warm or hot, the idle control normally at 700-800 rpm will not hold and the rpm's drop off to O rpm's and the engine stalls. This only occurs occasionally, and ocassionally the engine light will come on. I have had a mechanic check the error codes, but nothing is showing up as an error???

    Has anyone had this same problem and do you know of a corrective action to this problem?
  • Hello everyone! I'm new here, so might not be familiar with some rules yet, but I'll try to learn quick). I have a 99 Camry CE (4-cyl) with 100000 miles on it. Great car, love it everytime I get behind the wheel and that's - daily :).

    Sometime ago the MIL started to light up. I haven't noticed any other problems, it starts and drives as good as new. Sometimes MIL didn't light up, and I think it happened mostly in damp weather (on a rainy day), but I might be wrong. Finally the light started to drive me insane, and at the next visit to the dealer (I was replacing timing belts) I asked them to diagnose what's wrong. After spending about 2 hours they came back to me with an ECM code (which I already knew by using an OBD-2 reader) - P1600 (ECM malfunction), and possible nod to the very sloppy alarm installation. That last one was installed at the time of purchase, and worked without problems, but I had a separate grudge on how everything was left loose and tangled. Dealer said that most probably MIL is related to bad wiring or smth like that, but they really have not much clue on how/where to even start diagnosing it because it all looks like one huge spiderweb. I postponed the diagnostics and in the meantime removed the alarm altogether, noticing a lot of wrong cuts (the installer obviously was trying wrong wires at first). Well, this did not fix the problem completely, but it certainly improved it: now on every first start in the morning MIL is OFF! It is back ON on 2nd or 3rd start, and stays ON for the rest of the day... OBD still returns the only code P1600. It's description is too generic for me (I'm a software engineer, and this to me is like a PC giving an error "i'm broken").

    I'm wondering if I should replace the ECM, and if so are there any specifics? E.g. would ECM from a 99 4-cyl Camry with an AT (automatic transmission) work properly on an MT (manual) car? Does it need to be re-programmed (or tuned) after installation?

    The most common answer for MIL seems to be not tightly closed gas cap, but I always close it tightly; also what could P1600 mean more specifically? And why does this now not happen on the first start during the day (I thought of the engine being cold, but then I'd say since morning till lunch time it cools down enough; one day I was working from home, didn't get to it till evening - same story: 1st start - OK, next - MIL is ON)?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you all in advance!
  • Possibly a motor mount.

    Edge
  • Recently I have had my cv-joints replaced by a friend of mine because when I turned the wheel of my car I got a clicking noise. That being done I strt driving my car and once I crested over 60 miles per hour the entire car begins to shake. Thinking that it is an alignment problem I take it to pepboys to have them align the tires and they replace a driver's side rear tie rod. I also got new tires in the purchase as well. Thinking that my problem went away I drove the car around for a while, then opened it up to see if I still had the problem. This time it takes it till about 70 mph before it shakes. The only thing is that it only happens while I am pressing down the gas peddle.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    are no longer "synchronizd" L to R.
  • what should I do to correct this mistake
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    I saw your problem about the power steering sticking I have found that most people never change the power steering fluid and this causes problems. I use dexron 3 transmission fluid and I change it every 25,000 miles. All I do is get a pump from the auto store I pump out the fluid then I put in some dexron 3 transmission fluid then I let the car run then I empty out the power steering pump 2-3 more times to get all the old fluid out approximately 1.5 quarts of dexron 3 transmission fluid. I also do my Lexus LS400 with the same dexron fluid for the power steering. I put 398,000 on a toyota cressida and had the same power steering and transmission just by changing both at 20,000 miles hopes this helps.
  • Re: Please Help! Problem with 2005 4 cyl Camry LE [dom11021]......
    Tomorrow, I plan to take my new 2005 4 cyc Camry XLE for the exact same type of malfunction into my Toyota dealer. The only difference being, it has done this for 3 months(and never did it again) and at first I kept thinking it was something with the "panic buttons" on one of the sets of our keys, but now I know that is not the case.....today I have duplicated this malfunction enough to know it has something to do with the trunk or hood sensors/latches....since I have been off from work for 2 weeks and I know what I have touched before the malfunction started again.
    Will keep you posted if I or the dealer comes across a solution.
    11/04/05 signed tomcat18
  • My warning lights for my emergency brake and lights keep coming on. I checked all my lights and they come on, and with my emergency break I checked the connection between the sensor and the engage lever and it worked fine. Anyone have any ideas?
  • Check the brake fluid level, and if that's okay, then it's probably the brake pades. Happened on my 93 after I pulled a 180. I initially thought it was the parking brake sensors, but after I couldn't figure it out, I took it to my machanic, and he said that the brake pads were worn.
  • mcammcam Posts: 1
    I don't know what the code means however, I have the same model and year and I had a problem with the wiring harnes in the trunk. There seems to be a design flaw where the tail light harnes can be worn through by the trunk hinge. I had to get in the trunk to see it.
  • Anyone have any info on this TSB"

    NV010R-03: Body - Front Door Glass Wind Noise

    I have tried other boards but no luck. The dealer is of no help.
  • My mother owns a 2001 Toyota Camry Solara. Her car is an automatic and only has about 47000 miles on it. For some reason while going slow or at a stand still, her car will buckle and shake, then cut out. She has spent loads of money with the Toyota Dealership and other auto mechanics that can't figure out the problem. What's worst about this is that she is terrified to drive it and it is leased. Does anybody have the same car and is experiencing the problem? Does anybody know what to do in this situation? Does anybody have a general idea about what the problem may be? Help!!! :cry:
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    ...when the GM loyalists/lurkers come in here and crow about a Toyota recall that doesn't even affect models sold in North America? Meanwhile, GM market share in the US continues to plummet.
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    I saw your notice does your mother only drive around town and does the car every get a good hard run at 65mph for at least 20 miles per month. I am going towards maybe a build up of carbon in the engine from only town driving if this is all the car get to do. Lucas has a fuel injector cleaner you can buy at most auto stores such as pep boys or what ever store is in your neighbor hood . I recommend a good shot of lucas fuel injection cleaner and take the car out on a good 50-100 mile drive and clean out the injector s. This might help if there is carbon in the engine from running around town if the car does get a lot of highway mileage go ahead and use the Lucas injection cleaner it keeps the fuel system nice and clean. Hope this helps????? :D
  • dougb10dougb10 Burlington, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 185
    I understand that some Camry owners have had more than their share of problems and sympathize.
    My 2003 Camry XLE (4 cylinder 4 speed automatic) has been an absolute gem. I have had it almost three years, but never got around to accurately checking the gas mileage.
    A recent trip (80% highway, 20% city) returned an overall mileage of 39.7 mpg (Canadian gallon), or about 32 mpg per U.S. gallon. On the highway, cruise control was set at 110 kph (about 69 mph).
    This car, made in Japan, has had no rattles,no maintenance issues...just regular oil, filter,and coolant changes.
    I hope my good fortune continues...am also very pleased with the Toyota dealer who does all the servicing.
    My guess is that the majority of Camry owners (by far), have similar good feelings about their purchase.

    Doug
  • anyone solve their "check engine light" problem with one of those "o2 sensor simulators?" if so, which brand?
  • Thanks for the recommendation. My mom never drives the car out of a 10 mile radius. She never gets the car past 55 MPH. She has already had the fuel injector flush.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Wwest is wrong, there is no way for your left and right CV joints to get "out of synch". Every vehicle, front wheel drive or not, has a differential in the transmission/transaxle that allows the left and right wheels to run at different speeds. If they did not, you would never be able to go around corners. Thus your left and right drive shafts are always "changing synchronization".

    More likely you got a defective replacement part or a bad installation. Your friend may have botched the job.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Sorry, my oversight, I did say L to R which was wrong.

    When changing or rebuilding CV joints the shop manual indicates numerous instances of the need to "match-mark" the various components so they can be reinstalled and "matched" correctly with respect to the inner and outer CV joints.

    I can only assume that if the inner and outer CV joints are not correctly "matched up" on reassembly the result would be a "nutating" effect in the front driveline.

    This is a typical mistake for a shade tree mechanic, friend, such as I, often make. If your friend carefully marked the CV joints so the new ones could be installed "correctly", then I am totally out of line.
  • I am about to order the filter and gasket, and run down to the dealer for some fluid and change my AT fluid on my 99 Camry. I was talking to a neighbor about it, and he said it might be better to leave well enough alone. Does anyboy think there is any truth to that? I know if I mess something up I could do some damage, but short of not adding enough fluid or getting a good seal with the pan gasket I don't see how.
  • Any reason I shouldn't use Dexron 3 in my 1999 Camry AT? The manual says Dexron 3 or 2, but I've read that the newer toyota's use a toyota brand fluid.
  • Thanks, toyotaken,

    I had a check engine light on, but after reading your post, I remembered that I had filled the tank with the engine running.
    And also I hadn't closed the gas cap tightly.
    I disconnected the battery for a while, and reconnected it, and it solved the problem!
    Only problem was I had to find a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. The space was so tight only the exact 10mm socket would work. Wrenches wouldn't fit.

    Another thing was I didn't know the alarm goes off when I reconnect the battery, and I was surprised when the alarm went off.

    Anyways, thanks for the post.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Personally I would suggest that unless your ATF is brownish, looking or smelling burnt, you leave things as they are. My apologies in advance but given your apparent lack of DIY experience you should hire it done.
  • Can you describe how to grease the steering wheel shaft in detail?
    I have the same problem, and I would like to do it myself.
    Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.