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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Faulty seat belts are not repairable; you'll most likely have to get it replaced. But you don't need to go to a dealer. Any reputable independent shop should be able to help you. Check with friends, relatives, or co-workers for recommended shops in your area. I'd avoid the chains like Firestone, Sears, Pep Boys, etc.
  • joe10607joe10607 Posts: 1
    My 2001 Camry shakes too when braking at high speeds. I'm living with it because the brakes work (even though the car shakess) and that's what matters. I've brought it to my mechanic several times but he won't take my money to fix what ain't broke. I NEVER go to the dealership. I have two mechanics anyone can trust, one in White Plains and one in Tarrytown.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "My 2001 Camry shakes too when braking at high speeds."

    The shaking indicates a high probability of one or both front rotors being warped. While there's no safety issue involved here, the resultant vibration is very hard on affected front wheel bearings and, to some degree, accelerated front tire tread wear. If I were in your shoes, I'd at least try another mechanic. (I share your distrust of the take-yer-moneyships' service departments.) I had an '86 Peugeot that developed front-end shimmy when braking. The rotors were warped and I had them trued. The shimmy was back in less than a thousand miles. Removing enough metal to true the rotors left them too thin to dissipate braking heat effectively. They warped again quickly. Once I replaced the rotors, the problem stopped.
  • becca3becca3 Posts: 5
    I have a 1996 Toyota Camry. While driving to work this morning, the ECT Light came on. Does anyone know what this means?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    ect could be
    electronically controlled transmission, or
    engine coolant temperature

    what does your manual say?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    I couldn't figure that "ECT" light out either - why would the car suddenly decide to remind you that the transmission is electronically controlled? But excessive engine coolant temperature falls perfectly into place. I hope becca3 takes his/her car to a radiator shop pronto to have this possibility checked out. Statistically, cooling system maintenance is the most frequently overlooked procedure car owners check or ask to have checked. The other possibility for overheating is even worse - the bitter medicine to swallow of a '96 Toyota sludgemonster engine about to take a complete dump due to oil starvation to bearings and/or inadequate oil return to the sump.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i was confused myself, googling seemed to suggest maybe there was a button on the shifter. so i cannot say exactly.

    yeah, if the ECT comes on and if related to engine coolant temperature, it may already be too late - specially if becca3 continued to drive the vehicle.

    agree on the cooling system maintenance. engines need spark, gas, and air to run, but without lubrication and cooling, they will seize up and perhaps never run again.
  • becca3becca3 Posts: 5
    If it's the engine coolant temperature, wouldn't the arrow on the temperature gage be pointing towards hot?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes, you are correct; Camrys have temperature gauges.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    is it possible there is a temp sensor for indication, and one for ECU / TCM operation?
  • gunga64gunga64 Posts: 271
    My 2001 had a sticky accelerator pedal. I sprayed lube on the cable under hood no luck. I decided to kick the pedal a little to see if it was rubbing some. After a few good kicks the pedal loosened up. The lube did nothing for me. But I'd try that first
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Have you considered the possibility that the "few good kicks" helped the lube penetrate the cable so it could do its job?
  • carterslccarterslc Posts: 1
    When I get up to 80 there is what sounds like an airflow noise coming from the front of the vehicle. Have checked the windshield for leakage and it seems okay. Also thought it may be airflow through the wiper blades, but by turning on the wipers the noise does not change. Also adjusted the ventilation system with no results. When I bump it up to 90 for a while, and then come back down to 80-85 the noise goes away for a short period of time. It really does sound like airflow though. Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance,

    Steve
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "Moron 1st Class" it is! :D
  • frodo6frodo6 Posts: 16
    Hi All,

    I hear a crackling/static noise in my front driver-side speaker every now and then, and I don't know if this is a problem that needs repair. The noise does not seem to be constant (although it is hard to really tell if it is there all the time or not) but comes very pronounced at different pitches during music playback. For example, a certain track on a CD I play always seems to crackle when it hits a certain note. Is this normal, or something I should get fixed. The noise doesn't seem to appear when I listen to Talk Radio, or other songs (usually, but it does sometimes).
  • rachel7rachel7 Posts: 1
    Hi. My '94 Camry stalled last night as I was turning the corner, going about 20 miles per hour, around 10 pm in Philadelphia. I had only been driving for about 15 minutes. (Two days before I was caught in a rainstorm...but then the day before it was sunny and no rain.) I took the car to the mechanic today. He said that it looks okay--and he checked the charging, starting, and ignition. He also checked the fuel pressure which was good.

    Any tips on what could have caused it or anything else he could check? Any other maintenance or service things I should look into to ensure this car is alright?

    I am concerned b/c I drive an hour commute to work each day, and want to be safe! Thanks everyone!!
  • I have a '93 Camry and my distributor just went on it at 149k. It was pricey around $500 installed. I hope it is something cheaprer, good luck!
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    I'd be suspecting a defective or mismounted speaker, or something near the speaker interferring with cone travel under certain frequencies/playback levels. It's purely your decision whether to go to the next step and pursue a warranty remedy.
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    I am thinking about the rain storm you said you went through did your mechanic check the distributor where the spark plug wires go, he should take it off and see if it could have gotten wet from the rain or possibly a big puddle of water you could gone through. If it happens again ask your mechanic to put your car on the scope he knows what that means it will look at the ignition firing and all the components if they are working well such as spark plugs the spark plug wires and the rotor cap and distributor cap are working ok. The only other thing comes to mind is the fuel filter has it been changer within 40,000 to 60,000 miles if not change it. :shades:
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    it is probably a regular airflow noise. Is your car equiped with an antena? THose make a lot of wind noise to. If not, you can buy wind deflectors for in between the grill and hood.
  • le07le07 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I just got my car less than 1 month ago,I had the same noise coming from the back,when I checked with the dealer,they told me iy might be a bad welding spot...They are in the process of checking with Toyota,they didn't get back to me yet.Have you got any luck??....I need to ask if I'm eligible for a new car....
    Thanks
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    The problem that you are probably having is the throttle body needs to be claened. This was the same case with our 93 camry.Remove the air hose from the throttle body and squirt carburator cleaner in the trottle body and on the walls of it. Take a toothbrush and clean the carbon off. Hope this helps.
  • moeharrimoeharri Posts: 108
    My noise ended up being a "loose tie rod sleeve" or something like that. They tightened some nuts and then gave the car an alignment. The noise seems to be gone now.
  • ramelan1ramelan1 Posts: 4
    :mad: Sounds like a similar problem that I am having. About a week ago the battery died, and when I had it checked by my mechanic, who is very good, the alternator was cutting off and not charging the battery. So far we replaced the alternator and put a new battery in and it is still doing it. Something is causing the problem but so far it has not been corrected. Today, the check engine light on the dash came on. It is frustrating not knowing what is the cause of the problem. I was wondering if your problem ever got resolved. Thanks, Rich at ramelan1@yahoo.com
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    here's what i'd do:

    with a volt/ammeter from RadioShack or HomeDepot or Lowes, you should be able to isolate a constant draw on the battery.

    generally it involves putting the voltmeter in volts mode and measuring across the battery terminals and removing fuses one at a time until you see a good step change in battery voltage.

    another option would be to use the ammeter mode (amps) and read the current draw from the battery by measuring in-line with the negative lead of the battery and looking for a step change in current as fuses are pulled, but you have to use a voltmeter/ammeter rated to handle that current draw and have good leads.

    a third possibility involves using a 12V lamp with leads, i guess accross the battery would be fine, looking for a significant change in intensity as you pull fuses.

    there is either some circuit in your car constantly drawing on the battery (sunroof, power window, power locks, heated seat, power seat, radio, radio amp, etc, interior dome). suspect one of those first - or - i suppose there could be a problem with one of the computers (ECU / TCM), - or - a bad wiring harness or fuse holder with a short.

    i'd suspect any customization first (like a radio install with poor wiring which may be shorting). then any power equipment.

    what i hope you have is a constant problem which can be diagnosed. flakeys like a short or draw that comes and goes can be hard to find.

    good luck.
  • tahla1969tahla1969 Posts: 2
    Any advice?
    I have a 1989 Camry with 184000 miles. Sometimes the car will not crank and act like the battery is dead. The battery had a full charge when checked with a voltmeter. The car generally needs to be jump started, though once in a while if I continue to try and start, the car will start. A little history on recent repairs. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator, starter and distributor. I had the timing belt replaced a couple months ago. I just did the standard maintenance of tune up and oil change last month. Any ideas anyone?
  • tahla1969tahla1969 Posts: 2
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong. My car does the same thing and I have replaced the same parts plus distributor with no luck. If you could give me any insight, I'd appreciate it.
  • ramelan1ramelan1 Posts: 4
    my mechanic talked to a Toyota dealer, a buddy he knows who's a pretty straight shooter, and apparently late model toyota have a major problem with the ecu unit failing and causing a constant draw on the battery. the problem seems to one that should have necessitated a recall although i doubt it there is one, and it is expensive, according to this indiviual. the parts alone are almost $2,000, and it requires about 10 hours labor. is anyone aware of this type of problem and whether toyota has addressed it???
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    ECUs (engine control units) are the computers that track and control engine operation. In some cases they're combined with the transmission control unit on one motherboard. ECUs are warranted for full replacement and labor in the event of failure for 8 years/80,000 miles by federal law in the U.S. and have been since at least model year 1996. (probably several years at the minimum longer than that, but the oldest owner's manual/warranty supplement booklet I have possession of is the one I retrieved out of my '96 Accord after it was totaled...) The ones in my Accord and my '03 Sonata were/are located above the right front seat passenger kick panel and can be unplugged from their wiring harness and removed with a phillips head screwdriver in less than five minutes. Toyota's may be different.
  • ramelan1ramelan1 Posts: 4
    thanks man, i really appreciate you reply. i'm going back to my mechanic today, who is excellent by the way and really and truly honest (that's a breath of fresh air!!), and his father, who has raced and rebuilt racing and antique cars for 40 years wants to try another alternator to see if he has really isolated the problem. there does seem to be a draw in the circuit that includes the ecu-1, rad-1, and the dome accroding to the owner's manual). they pulled all the fuses one at a time and there was a jump in voltage when this fuse, a 30 amp fuse at number 19 on the fuses underneath the hood), which could accord for the draw, which is continuous even with the car turned off. so this draw continues throughout the night and is bringing down the new battery. that seems to explain why, when i idle the car for more that a fews minutes and turn it off to go into a store and come back out the battery does not have enough power to turn the engine over. hope this is of some help to someone out there. also, i think, even though my extended warranty just went over the 100,000 termiation (by 4,500) should cover it. actually, it should have been reported by toyota as a recurrent problem and been the subject of a recall as a systemic problem. anyone got any suggestions as to how i can "fight" toyota on this.
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