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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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  • i have a 96 camry that backfires out the intake manifold it wont pass 400 rpm as if it was flooding out timing belt is right the money replaced crank sensor coolant temp sensor is fine there are no codes present only cyl #2 and 3 are working, it has good compression head job was done so valves are fine replaced injectors, it has spark and inj pulse
    don't know what else to check
    Please, : anybody has any advice
    :confuse:
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    w.r.t. the brakes, i'd say there is an issue worthy of inspection by another dealer or an independant. i thought abs may cause longer stopping distances (in general) if people don't stomp, but rather pump the brakes as they would in a non-abs vehicle.

    drive the other person's Camry with the ABS. if it is taking a lot of effort in your vehicle, but not theirs, there is something wrong.

    follow your instincts.
  • I have a 1993 Toyota V6 Camry. It seems to intermittently over heat. I changed out the thermostat.
    The cooling system does hold pressure.
    It will boil over.
    With the radiator cap removed and the car at operating temperature I can not see the coolant circulating.
    Water does not come out of the exhaust.
    With the heat on I get a fog out of the vents.
    Do I have two problems?
    A bad water pump and leaking heater core?
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Most antifreeze contains ethylene glycol as the antifreeze/anti-boil agent. If you have a ruptured heater core, you would probably notice a "sweet" odor inside the car from the ethylene glycol* (assuming you're not running your car's cooling system on water alone). Coolant should ALWAYS be up to the lower rim of the radiator opening. In a properly working cooling system, any coolant overflow will be caught by the plasric overflow tank connected to the radiator cap opening with a rubber hose and drawn back into the radiator by the vacuum that forms in the closed system as the engine cools down after shutoff. If the coolant level is consistently decreasing, it's leaking out under pressure. Other leakage sources are a blown cylinder head gasket, a leaking radiator, a bad radiator cap, a bad seal at the thermostat housing, a bad water pump seal, and/or failed radiator and/or heater hose(s). I'm also assuming when you replaced the thermostat, you didn't inadvertently position the new one bass-ackward.

    *I have no idea what the so-called low-tox antifreezes which use propylene glyclol smell like.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I second user777's advice. ABS does NOT cause longer stopping distances, except in fresh wet snow or on loose surfaces like gravel. If your brake pedal must be pushed extra hard, again it's not the ABS. You have some kind of other problem, possibly a faulty vacuum booster.

    As user777 said, how does your car compare with your friends' Camry and Altima? You're not totally clear on that point.

    Regarding the bumper cover re-paint, unfortunately it's not all that uncommon for dealers to improperly fix cosmetic damage that may have occurred during shipping. You should have complained loudly the first time it became obvious. It's probably too late now for the dealer to do anything on their dime, as the car is 3 years old.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    ABS activation will always, ALWAYS, elongate your stopping distance, unconditionally.

    The SOUL purpose of ABS is to allow you to maintain directional control.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,707
    >ABS activation will always, ALWAYS, elongate your stopping distance, unconditionally.

    elongate relative to what?

    If you're on ice and you don't have ABS, the operation of the ABS will shorten your stopping distance by keeping each wheel effectively in rolling contact with the surface and allowing maximum decelleration. Otherwise one and more wheels would keep locking up, giving no stopping power, and you would release the brake pedal then reapply and start the process over again.

    The ABS can shorten the stopping distance on poor surfaces compared to not having ABS operating, but the stopping distance would be longer than on a normal dry asphalt surface.

    This message has been approved.

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Sorry you are incorrect. I've personally witnessed numerous demonstrations on dry asphalt at 50-60 mph with accurate measuring equipment on board the test vehicle, and 4-wheel ABS always slightly shortens stopping distances. The chief advantage of ABS, however, as you point out, is to maintain steering ability.

    On wet surfaces, it's no contest, because the ABS allows directional control, especially if one side of the pavement is more slippery than the other.

    The only situations where ABS may "elongate" stopping distances is when a wedge of material (wet snow or loose gravel, for example) builds up in front of locked wheels, permitting shorter stopping distances for non-ABS vehicles. Another is on extremely bumpy pavement, where one or more tires may lose contact with the pavement altogether.
  • I have a 2000 Toyota Camry. I keep the oil changed as suggested. The engine light is on and when I went to get an inspection sticker - the car failed the emission test. It said something about airflow, etc. Then they suggested that I take it to the Toyota Dealership - which really frightens me.

    Can anyone shed light on what it usually cost to get emission issues cleared up so I don't walk into the dealership at their mercy? :cry:
  • more often then not but sometimes sporadic when I start my car and give it gas it starts to sputter, like I'm waiting for the engine to kick. Last night it did it again and when I put it in park I could feel a shaking. Could this be my transmission, maybe low on transmission fluid? I just had the fuel injection cleaned out with an oil change recently and nobody said that my transmission looked bad, any help would be great. thanks.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i don't think anyone is going to give you an answer with any specificity, because your question is still too general and without detail to WAG an estimate.

    what you could do is have a local automotive parts store (AutoZone, NAPA, PepBoys, etc) read the code(s) for you.

    Then you could google those codes and camry and see what you get in terms of probable cause and part location.

    Then you could go to an online auto-parts website dealing in Toyota and get an idea of the cost of the part.

    Then you could get a local independant quote the confirmation of the diagnosis and contingent replacement of the part for comparison.. (ie labor).

    Hopefully, the process that I describe in general will yield some useful information to you.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Sounds like at least a problem with the mass airflow sensor, though a diagnostics may uncover other fault codes, too. Depending on your locale and/or the provisions of the Federal Emissions warranty at the time your vehicle was manufactured, your repairs may be covered by Toyota. (Check your owner's manual or whatever warranty supplement material was included with the original paperwork for details.) In any event the problem(s) won't go away so you have no choice if you wish to continue registering your Camry for use on public highways. The engine's emissions control systems have to be repaired to meet its original emissions standards.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Transmissions do not cause engine sputtering. Fuel or ignition problems cause engine misfiring/sputtering. May be time for a tune up. There may be other engine management issues that have to be dealt with, too.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    or a problem with an 02 sensor / heater element... the code and some research should yield more.
  • ops1ops1 Posts: 25
    Has anyone ordered parts from toyotaparts4u.com? If so, are they OEM parts?

    Their posted prices seem much cheaper (even with the shipping) than getting OEM parts from my local Toyota dealer.
  • I bought my car 2 months ago (beginning of August) with the dealer-installed security system. From day 1 (literally -- at 30 miles on the odometer) I began having problems with it. On 4 occasions, the alarm system went ga-flooey, sounding off whenever it felt like it when I locked the car. The service manager at my dealership instructed me how to de-activate the alarm system, which I did. After that, on one occasion, the horn started blaring as I shut off the ignition. So I had the alarm system removed by the dealer.

    After that, the beeping system went off after I locked the driver's door with the latch on the side of the door. Instead of one beep, it began sounding like a sick cow. I tested this twice after and the same thing happened. The only way to shut off the sound was by hitting the "unlock" on the remote. I brought the car back to the dealership for the second or third time and, of course, it did not happen again.

    Today, the horn started blaring again as I shut off the ignition (remember -- there is no longer an alarm system in the car). I called the service manager again today and he suggested that I go the lemon law route because he cannot find a problem.

    I am not crazy. These things have happened. I have been driving quite happily for about 45 years. I am a serious driver (although not a 'car gal'), and I like to love my cars. This is the first car I have owned, from new, high performance luxury cars (8 cyl, 400+ hp) to used econo-boxes (4 cyl, 90 hp) that I have not even liked.

    Has anybody else found a similar problem. I don't really want to go the Lemon law route because it's a pain in the neck. I'd much rather get some input from people like you who have actually thought about these problems so that perhaps I can present a possible solution to the service manager at my dealership.

    My hunch is that the alarm system, when it was installed, was connected to the horn system, and the underlying problem is somehow connected to the horn.

    Many thanks for any information you can give me.
  • I have a 1999 Camry. Just yesterday, the remote keys (both) stopped working, after I locked the car with one of the key. It won't let me unlock the car using the remote keys. When I unlock the car by inserting the key in the door, it let me do that, but when I open the door, the alarm sounds off, and the ignition won't turn.

    Can someone please help?
    Thanks.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Probably a long shot, but the first thing I'd do is check that the hood and all four doors are completely closed. (that means open 'em each one-by-one and slam 'em closed) Any one on its secondary "safety" catch could cause exactly the problem you described. (Once armed, the system can't be disarmed except with the keyfob - and that won't happen if one of the doors or the hood is inadvertently open. While you're at it, make certain the trunk lid is fully closed, too.)
  • My 99 Solara 3.0 started having the same problem with the iac valve at 70,000 miles and exactly 364 days later it failed again (made the warranty by 1 day). Have you gotten any satisfaction from Toyota concerning this matter or do they expect you to keep paying each time in full ?
  • My 99 Solara is having the same problem with the iac valve. It's been quite a while now since you cleaned your valve. How long did this fix last? Is it worth doing in the long run?
This discussion has been closed.