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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • Certainly doesn't sound right to me, but I am not a mechanic. Personally I would take it back and compare with others on the lot. If it is the exhaust system, then it does get hot and can show rust much earlier than just about any other part. But for a new delivery item, I would certainly check it out.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i believe that would be part of your exhaust manifold assembly (you got a 4 cylinder vehicle?), perhaps you are looking at a heat shield, and the thing that looks like a "spark plug", probably an O2 sensor to determine if the vehicle is properly burning the fuel post-combustion (by taking measurements from the combustion gases on their way to the Catalytic Convertor and the muffler).

    in that location, i would imagine you'd have on the metal, some blueing or slight discoloration due to heating after the vehicle is driven some. not owning or seeing the vehicle, it's hard to say what you are looking at exactly. are there any other signs of rust on any metal structures surrounding the engine?
  • pxkpxk Posts: 1
    I brought mine in August 2005. In the warm weather I get 28 miles to the gal. Was expecting the 34 listed. Was told it is a larger engine and that 28 was good. I lve in New England and with the cold weather I'm getting 25 mpg now. Anyone else getting the EPA recomeded mpg.

    Thanks.
  • I have a 1998 4 cylinder Camry LE - 134,000 miles - I recently changed the spark plugs and noticed that oil is leaking into the #1 cylinder (I noticed it for about the last 50-60,000 miles. Now the engine is burning an extra quart of oil between oil changes. The engine seems to run smooth, though.

    I think it's either the valve guides or piston rings in this cylinder. Does anyone have an estimate as to how much it would cost to install new piston rings and/or valve guides on a single cylinder?

    Thanks in advance,

    Hoosier

    Thanks
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    This is the exhaust manifold, and as part of the exhaust system, it's made of steel and can't be painted because of the extreme heat. It will tend to show surface rust early, but this is nothing to worry about. The part should easily last the lifetime of the car.
  • Yes, it is the exhaust heat shield. It is discolored and has rust on it. It is brand new 2006 camry v4 with 9 miles on the odometer. Everything else under the hood is fine. And it runs fine. But why the rust? What do I do?

    thanks
  • Thanks for your post, it came up just before I posted reply to older message. so it tends to show surface rust early. Do they clean it every couple of months or so?

    thanks
  • I am used to having a Ford vehicle with the numbered keypad on the driver's door. I could start the car to warm it up, lock it and shut the door, and then open it with the keypad. Now I have an '05 Camry and I really miss this feature. Sometimes I like to warm the car up, but I never want to leave it unattended with the keys in it. I tried to lock the car when I got out with it running, but I couldn't. Then I went and got my spare keys and tried to lock it with them, but no luck. Does anyone know if there's a way to do this?
  • Latest news from the Detroit Auto Show on the new lineup of Camrys, right here at the Edmunds blogs:

    http://blogs.edmunds.com/.ee8e56c
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Use the driver door lockset once all the doors are closed.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Despite what wwest reported above, I don't think there is a way to lock the doors with the key still in the ignition, whether the car is running or not. The purpose, obviously, is to minimize the likelihood of locking yourself out of the car. (Of course, if you leave your keys OUT of the ignition, but on the seat or console, you can lock yourself out.)

    The dealer MIGHT be able to disable the feature, but I know of no way to do it yourself. If you do have it disabled, I'd recommend always having a spare key in your pocket or purse.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Despite what wwest reported above, I don't think there is a way to lock the doors with the key still in the ignition, whether the car is running or not. The purpose, obviously, is to minimize the likelihood of locking yourself out of the car. (Of course, if you leave your keys OUT of the ignition, but on the seat or console, you can lock yourself out.)

    The dealer MIGHT be able to disable the feature, but I know of no way to do it yourself. If you do have it disabled, I'd recommend always having a spare key in your pocket or purse.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Despite what wwest reported above, I don't think there is a way to lock the doors with the key still in the ignition, whether the car is running or not. The purpose, obviously, is to minimize the likelihood of locking yourself out of the car. (Of course, if you leave your keys OUT of the ignition, but on the seat or console, you can lock yourself out.)

    The dealer MIGHT be able to disable the feature, but I know of no way to do it yourself. If you do have it disabled, I'd recommend always having a spare key in your pocket or purse.
  • Suggest you don't go to Toyo dealer for your problem-they will only install toyo brakes.
    Go to a good mechanic and have him[or her]install Carbon Ceramic brake pads.NAPA has them.
    They don't squeak and are quiet and have minimal dusting.
    I have 2 '96 Camrys and would never install Toyota brakes.
  • I'm betting if you used a spare key to lock the door after hopping out, it'll stay locked (that's the same as locking with you on the inside, which you can definitely do).
    However, I'd bet that any "electronic" method (button, key fob, etc) would not allow you to lock the door, for the previously mentioned reason of minimizing the risk of locking yourself out.
    Of course, now you need to carry two keys around.

    Brad.
  • mmattmmatt Posts: 5
    Did you get this running? Mine just did the same thing!
    Thanks,
    M
  • mmattmmatt Posts: 5
    Car ran fine yesterday then I washed the motor. It ran fine so I parked it. When I got into it the next day. It started fine for aprox 3 min then it died and has not ran since. There is no blown fuses. I am not getting any spark. I installed new wires and plugs since but still no go. I'm gonna buy a cap and rotor tonight.
  • mmattmmatt Posts: 5
    Peter Pan,
    Mine is doing the exact same thing! I'll try the coil tonight!
  • Alright, enough of the personal issues, let's get back to the real problem at hand - our cars hesitate & jerk. Toyota accepts it as "normal", it is status quo for them and they don't appear to have any intentions of fixing it or changing it. We all agree that the problem seems to be with the 3.3L V6 5-speed automatic and the drive-by-wire "technology", although, how they can call it technology when it doesn't work better than the old method is beyond me. Hesitation wasn't acceptable 30 years ago, so I can't understand why it is OK now. Toyota doesn't care, it is status quo for them. I don't like the feeling of slogging through mud when I accelerate or the herky-jerky shift changes where the computer just can't make up its mind what gear it wants to be in. :lemon:
  • I have an '02 4 cylinder Solara. I took the car to an independent for a fuel injection cleaning & now have a check engine light on which they say is a P0420 code for the catalytic converter performing below threshhold. I had the catalytic converter replaced at 50,000 miles while still under warranty. The car is now at 105,000. I was just wondering if faulty fuel injection servicing can cause these issues. The check engine light appeared about 3 days or so after cleaning. Any input appreciated!
This discussion has been closed.