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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • damon34damon34 Posts: 124
    I am sorry all of you are having this problems with ur 2007 camry 4cyls but i am glad that I am not nuts. Everybody is almost describing their car almost to a T like my car acts. Hesitation problem dangerous at times. barely climping up hills. THe cuise control is terrible i dont even use it.But what nobody has answered yet is if their gas mileage has went from good to bad like mine. Mine has lost about 4 to 5 miles per gallon. But nobody else has said anything about theirs so i am just wondering?
  • flyingjflyingj Posts: 7
    You're not nuts...Toyota is nuts! I am getting 19 miles to the! :lemon:
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Posts: 52
    Just an update on my coolant problem. I filled the radiator up and the reservoir. After doing so I drove about 2 hours and it went down a little in the reservoir. I topped it off again and checked the radiator again and the radiator was full. It has been a whole day and the car has lost no more coolant. What could have caused the leak stopping, if there ever was one? It lost an entire reservoir and half of what was in the radiator, during this summer. Could it all have just boiled off? Or do I still need to change the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The belt was changed at 80,000 miles and it now has 186,000
  • ach1199ach1199 Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having same problem with my 99 Camry. Was the problem turn out to be the Turn Signal Relay or something else? If it was the relay then where did you find it on the car? I looked under the hood in the fuse box and could not find it. Thanks.
  • aruaru Posts: 1
    Hi! I'm in the market for a 2007 SE 4 cyl. But I'm rethinking my choice after reading about the hesitation problem. Is this problem only present in this particular model? Will I fare better if I purchase the 6 cyl or a different model?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Until just recently the only engine/transaxle delay hesiation common threads, seemingly, was Toyota/Lexus, DBW, FWD or front biased AWD, and the V6 w/5-speed.

    Several reports of the problem on the new RAV4 indicate it may have now propagated to the I4. Is the RAV4 I4 mated to the 5-speed?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "...Chose this Camry because of the good reputation of Toyota and the reasonable price....over a Sonata Hyundai. Now have been told that the Hyundai bought 10-14 Camry's and took them apart and rebuilt them and fashioned Sonata after this (really have been told this)...Maybe I should have bought the Hyundai..."

    I can't say you should've bought a Sonata. And, not to rub salt in an open wound, I'll relate my experience. After my '96 Accord was totaled (Sound familiar? ;)), I did buy a Hyundai Sonata V6. 3 2/3 years later the only warranty issue to date was discovering a defective cabin dome light fixture switch shortly after delivery. I'm no expert, but I doubt Hyundai intentionally patterned any of the Sonata's key mechanicals specifically after those of the Camry. I don't doubt Hyundai engineers took a Camry or two apart to observe and study Toyota's design considerations (Accords and Altimas, too, for that matter), since that's SOP for nearly all automakers. In other words, why "re-invent the wheel" from scratch when others have already gone down that road? And, if it ain't patented, it's fair game.) However, by observing how others have handled a particular issue, they then have the opportunity to make it better or cheaper (or even both if they're really clever).
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    If the coolant level has stabilized, just drive the car and watch it. You may've had the simplest "problem" in the book after a coolant changeout: trapped air inside the system. If so, it sounds like it's finally worked its way out and burped into the overflow bottle. Since the liquid in the bottle is heavier than air, when the engine cools, it sucks coolant out of the bottom of the bottle to equalize the radiator coolant level as the coolant contracts when it cools. Just keep an eye on it. Once a week you should remove the radiator cap before starting the engine when it's cold to check the level in the radiator. The coolant level in a cold radiator should be right up to the ring in the filler neck that the radiator cap gasket seals against. Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. Pressurized coolant hotter than the boiling point of water shows no mercy. You can be seriously scalded.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Posts: 52
    Hey thanks for the advice, I had a guy here in town that is my dads friend agree to install a water pump, timing belt, and new thermostat for 320 dollars? This includes all the necessary belts and parts and labor. Is this a deal or am I getting ripped off? :(
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    If that includes parts, that is a very good deal.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Hey, that's a pretty good deal even if it doesn't include the parts. Dealer quotes are in the range of $1000 plus.
  • I hope that you all can give me some help. I currently own a 99 Camry with 117K miles. I was just going to trade it in for a new TCH, but when I started my car yesterday afternoon, I noticed a big plume of white smoke coming from the tail pipe. :cry: The mechanic that I use specializes in Toyotas said that it would most likely be the seals and maybe the rings. Now, to fetch a good price for the car, I should probably fix is, but then it means that I am spending more for a car that I was planning to. I would like to get an idea of how much it would cost to repair. If it is significant (the car's trade-in is only $4000), I would rather fix the other problems are are more minor as well.
    The engine gets really bad gas mileage when I use gas with lower than 91 octane. (20 mpg with 87 octane but about 29 mpg with 91 octane) Is this something wrong with the car or is this just how the car was built.
    The mechanism that enables the release of the fuel tank panel - Is it easy to replace and where can I find the replacement cheap?
    Other than that, I have loved this car since day 1 (bought it new). I had the problem starting but not maintaining the rpm to keep the engine running for a while and no one know how to fix it until I found the mechanic that I use now. He only charges me $150 for the idle control unit and it has only been changed once. It will probably be time soon. It seems to go out every 60K miles. Once I fix the seals issue, I would like to know how long people have had before needing additional repairs other than regular maintenance. I am just wondering whether it would be better to just keep the car once I fix it rather than buying the new TCH, great as it may be. Please help. :confuse:
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    Also have him drain the radiator and engine block of the old antifreeze and you have a great deal change the antifreeze every 2 to 2 1/2 years even with the new 5 year antifreeze to help keep your engine block and radiator clean. Here is something you can also do when you get your car back take it to the local $2.00 car wash and wash out the front of the air condition what looks like a radiator that is in front of your radiator with hot soapy water and then go from the engine side and wash out the radiator not getting the engine wet. You will find a lot of dust mud bugs and whatever that will flush out helping your air condition to run cooler and radiator to help the engine run cooler. Don't forget to change out the transmission fluid every 20k miles. :shades:
  • eg3941eg3941 Posts: 2
    Re: my concern about rear seat air conditioning vents on 2005 Camry LE, when I switch the airflow to the floor I do get cool air out of the rear seat vents BUT in a typical hot Texas summer day it is virtually useless so I have to switch back to regular front seat vents and try to direct the air to the rear seat which is also not very effective. Is there an e-mail address direct to Toyota where they respond to questions like this?
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 881
    4 cyl or V6? We have a '99 4 cyl auto with 120,000 miles; gets 30 mpg on any kind of gas on the highway. So far only oil changes for maintenace, but we have only owned it about 2 years. We've been very pleased with it.
  • It's a 4 cyl auto and does get anywhere between 29-30 mpg on 91 octane. When I use 87 the mpg goes to about 20-23. I have had regular oil changes and maintenance. Changed the timing belt @ 90K. I have been very happy, but now I'm wondering whether I should retire it and buy a new one.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    If the overall air ducting system is like my RX300 it really helps to close, or close slightly, those front (manual only, always open otherwise)air outlets near the left and right front windows.

    That will "baffle" the dash outlets airflow, "forcing" more of the cooled system airflow out of the rear high level air ducting.

    I have often considered adding booster fans inside the rear ducting to increase the rear airflow. Luckily we don't often have rear seat passengers plus do not have a lot of HOT weather here near Seattle.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The 2002-06 Camry LE and SE, however, don't have "high level" rear air ducting.

    There are vent outlets under the front seats only, and I haven't yet checked to see if cooled air comes out of them.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    There cannot be such a mileage discrepancy between 87 and 91 octane for the 4-cylinder engine. In fact, there should be none.

    Are you comparing apples to apples: multiple fillups in the same kind of driving conditions? One way to check would be to take a long trip using regular going one way and premium coming back. Of course, this will only work if the traffic conditions are similar both ways and you're not going uphill one way and downhill back!
  • Yeah. It's similar driving conditions. About 80 CA freeways and 20% city. The reason why I am specific about CA freeways is that there are point where it is bumper to bumper but that is usually about 5 miles going home from work. But the mileage problems, I am really worried about the smoke coming from the tail pipe at start up. :sick: The mileage issue was notice about 1 year into owning the car when I started community about 45 miles one way to work and the premium gas was adding up. I switched a couple of time to 87 and I notice a huge difference in the mileage because I was going to the pump more often. When I asked the mechanic, he just said that it was a typical occurence in cars built in the 90s and early 2000s. When I did the math, it ended up costing me the same so for the convenience of not having to get to the gas station so often, I opted for 91. But this is not major issue. I need to consider whether I need to fix the smoke problem or buy a new car. If I can fix the smoke problem affordably, I would then see about fixing this gas issue. :confuse:

    Update: I contacted several mechanics today and they seem to think that it is the head gasket that needs to be replaced. If this is true, they quoted about $1200-$1300 to fix. This would be worth fixing, but does that sound right to the mechanically abled on this page.
This discussion has been closed.