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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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  • paul29paul29 Posts: 178
    The Celica was owned by another family member , the others mine. All shop manuals were purchased from Toyota direct except 4 Runner (dealer) . All were reasonably priced IMO except for the 02 Camry.
  • I thought ECM was main central computer and ECU just controlled ignition? Are they actually the same thing?

    Oh well. I am generally lost when it comes to most sensors and sending units anyway. Coolant temp. sensor (ECT?) and oil pressure I am ok with. Start talking MAP, MAF, O2, etc. and it's all greek.

    I know far less about the computer in my car than the one on my desk :)
  • Do you remember about how much they were?

    I'd love to know, so I could find out how much they're trying to overcharge me at the local Toyota dealer when I ask :)

    They wanted $1070 (or some such) to do all 4 struts on my car. The most anyone else in town wanted was $700. I ended up doing the fronts myself. Both struts cost me $95 (incl. tax). The spring compressor tool I borrowed free from autozone- took about 2 hrs (w/ friend). Alignment afterwards was $50. Haven't done the backs yet (the ride feels so good now I can't make myself do it). They don't look any harder to do, though you do have to remove the rear speaker shelf.
  • I too have that dash rattle...sounds like something in back of the radio. At my first oil change in a few weeks I am having them pull it and see what's up. I also have rattles at ears height in the door area on both passenger and drivers side.....very sad for such a supposedly high quality car.
  • paul29paul29 Posts: 178
    The manuals vary in price as there can be up to five manuals per platform. You can order direct from Toyota at 1-800-622-2033 in Ca . It is better if you decide which ones you need before calling ie. engine , chassis , electrical , diagnostic , transmission etc ( "normally" you would only need the first two or three for most DIY repairs ). I warn you that they are more expensive than Haynes or Chilton but are much more comprehensive and specific and you have to have more than just a passing interest in your vehicle to justify the cost . Good luck
  • Thanks very much. I would definitely like to have something more in depth than Chiltons. But don't feel the cost would be justified for my Camry, since I probably won't keep it for more than another year or two. Next new car, I will look into this.
  • alexhhoalexhho Posts: 5
    I have a 00 V6 Solara, and don't want to mess around with stock items. I'm just wondering if by adding a front strut brace or a rear sway bar or both would increase the car's handling significantly? And does it matter what brands of bars? Any recommendations and where to get the parts? Thank you for your time.

    Alex
    alexhho@yahoo.com
  • I have the exact same rattle somewhere in my dash. When you find out please post the results. Good news about the wind noise I frequently hear at ear level near the shoulder belt adjustment. It turns out my window isn't shutting properly and is ajar ever so slightly. The window, and electric regulator needs to be replaced according to the dealership. Now that I have the seat rattle taken care of, and the wind noise solved, I just have the dash rattle left.
  • etcbetcb Posts: 42
    Does anyone know when Toyota made changes to the V6 to stop the sludge problem. I just purchaced a 2002 Camry made Aril 02 with a 1MF-FE engine. All I've read says the problem engines were 1MF V6 made before July 2001. Am I out of the woods?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    toyota revised the PCV system I believe or in that area but many people do not feel that this is the problem. The problem appears to be that these engines just beat up the oil and Toyota (for marketing/competition reasons) refuses to change its owners manual to reflect that shorter oil changes are necessary, like 3000 severe and 5000 normal.They just will not change the manual and people that go the 7500 miles as noted in the current manual are the ones most likely to incur problems with sludge.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Have you tried taking your car to the auto repair garage that is on Fort Bragg?

    A friend of mine who is stationed at Bragg tells me car dealership around Ft Bragg will rip people off badly.

    Now I'm back in Jersey from my trip to Ft Bragg
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    michaelm10: It's fine. It's standard manufacturer statement regarding aftermarket rims. From the factory, whether you get a Camry or some other Toyota with steelie or alloys, all they do is swap rims. It's just there for legal reasons.

    A full size steel rim is still better than a donut, where with donuts you get a speed limitation and how many miles you can drive with it on, lowers the car approximately 1", adversedly affects handling, etc.

    hfgrant47: I'd start looking into the distributor components: ignition module (coil) and the pickup assembly, basically the electronic components of the distributor
  • My Camry blew a head gasket last week. My mechanic figured it was gasket failure and not an overheating issue since such a large leak was present. He estimated it would be about $1100 after machining and everything. Does this sound reasonable?

    If it is that much I'm not sure I will fix it. It is a '90 with 94,400 miles on it. Relatively low miles, so I'm mad this happened. But it is getting old, and I'm not sure it is worth the money- just makes me angry to lose a head gasket under 100,000. Any guesses how much it would sell for used? Trade in?
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Look into the cost of a rebuilt engine...it may be slightly more than going in, and doing all this machining work.

    Trade-in...or selling, with a blown head gasket, you won't get much out of it.

    Use the Edmunds TMV function to figure out the value of your car.
  • ralpiralpi Posts: 26
    2002camry: thanks for the info on your rattle. I would like to investigate this solution on my car, as well. Do you know exactly what the dealer did to the passenger seat? Possibly it is something I can fix on my own. Thanks!
  • I have recently seen a notice from Toyota about a oil jelling problem. Can anyone tell me what this is? I have bought a 1999 Camry 4cylinder back in July, and would like to know if this is the same problem I had with the sludge and foaming I had in my 90 Camry. I thought at the time it was a pvc problem or a leaking head gasket. But I changed the brand of oil I used and continued a changed every 3000 miles and didn't have much problems after that. The car is still on the road with about 200,000 miles on it. If this is a new problem, has anyone been seeing it.
  • juzefjuzef Posts: 37
    Hello all,

    Some of you may know me. Over the past two years or so, I've posted my Toyota experience on this site. It's been a while so here's another update.

    First let me say, I love my Camry but as of now, it is not without flaws. I have a 2000 Camry V6 XLE with moonroof and leather. Currently I have 116,000 miles on the car which is alot, but they are mostly highway miles. I've had regular maintaince and oil changes.

    Here's the current status of my car.

    Problems:
    1.) Car shakes when applying brakes on Highway while traveling high speeds (70-80mph). I'm a gentle driver, especially with brakes. For example, I had my brakes changed @100K miles and there were still plenty of thinkness left on the pads. The car was shaking in a similar manner before the brake change but went away after I had the rotars cut and new pads. Recently, after about 3months after the brake change, the car is starting to shake again while braking on HW. I rotated and balance the wheels, with no help. Don't know what to do at this point. I'm afraid this is gonna cost alot of $$$ to fix. I'm inclined to live with the shaking, but it gets me nervous.

    2.) Check Engine Light & Traction Control Light
    - These lights came on at the same time roughly
    a few weeks after the car started to shake. I took the car to a Toyota Dealership. They wanted $70 JUST TO PUT IT ON THE COMPUTER! And they wouldn't apply this to the cost of fixing whatever is causing such a problem. So I took the car to AutoZone..and they put it on the computer for FREE!..turns out the ERG sensor or something related to emissions. Which reminds me of why Bob Ciasulli's Dealership for Service SUCKS..I'll explain further down.

    3.) My 'in-dash-6-CD/Cassette player' Doesn't accept CD's. Infact, this occured about a year ago. Doesn't that SUCK??..believe it or not, this in-dash 6-CD unit costs nearly $1000 to be replayced and the Dealership refused to look at it at the time since I just exceeded the warantee. Well, I'm living without it for now but unhappy about it.

    That's about it. What I'm really worried about is the shaking while driving..if anyone knows about this..please respond.

    Now, let me describe the nightmareish experience I had at Bob Ciasulli's Toyota Dealership on Rt 46 around 1-2 months ago. I hope the whole WORLD including Bob-Ciasulli sees this! A few months ago, I was pulled over for a flash road inspection. Turns out I was late for inspection. Anway to my surprise, I failed the emission's test. I couldn't believe that my 2000 Camry would fail emissions. Hesitantly, I took it to Bob Ciasulli. I hesitated since I had a chilling experience two years earlier with their sales department. I won't go there here. I thought, that their service department would be different. BOY WAS I WRONG!!!

    The service guy was called Danny I believe, a FAST speaking and very impolite gentleman. I'm mentioning his first name only, but this guy was something else..totally disrespecting me as I will now explain. I took the car to him and told him, I failed inspection and that I need to be inspected. He told me he could not inspect my car but he handles failed inspections all the time and was sure he could get my car to pass inspection. He ASKED me if I had the inspection paper work he had to fill out. Turns out I forgot that at home. I told him, after he fixed my car, I'd go home and get the paperwork and bring it back for him to fill out. After putting it on the computer, he suggested some service including changing the spark plugs and wires as well as some sort of cleaning service all of which would cost around $500. Fine..the cost wasn't the problem even though I felt it was too high..I just wanted to get my car to pass inspection and get on my way. So I went home, got the paper work and returned to the dealership and asked Danny to fill out my paper work. He told refused saying No No..I didn't have to fill that out..just use my Receipt which had all the information for the Moter Vehicles EVEN when the paperwork said that the STATE of NJ mandated that the person who did the repairs MUST fill it out. He refused to fill out the paper work and told me to use the reciept..I was irritated but fine..I went to the department of moter vehicles and waited in the small line..since it was still early. When it was my turn, they asked for the paper work and I showed them the reciept. They told me I MUST have the dealer fill out the paper work and refused to check my car. I was bent at this point. I drove back to the dealership and told Danny to FILL out the paper work politely. He resisted but finally agreed to fill it out with a nasty attitude proclaiming the Moter Vehicles and not HIM was giving me a hard time. He quickly SCRIBLED ALL over the document in such a way, my 3 year old God Son could have done a neater job! Fine, he filled it out OK..I left and went back to the dealership..and the line as 3 times as large as last time..taking about 45-1hour for me to get to the inspectors. They looked at the document and they guy said 'What is this??' They couldn't read it! They told me it was incorrectly filled out and unreadable and that the guy who filled it out is 'busting my balls', pardon the language. Anyway..Now I was really upset. The inspector, knowing this was now my 2nd Time at the inspection line, further did some checking and said that that Toyota Dealership is not even Authorized to do any work on my car to fix the emissions problems. At these facts I was furious. He said it would be better for me to do the work myself! They turned me away..and I returned very upset to the Dealership and demanded to speak to his manager. Danny boy sends for a manager. The Manager who came didn't care the least for what just happened to me. Infact, he agreed totally with Danny boy that the Motor Vehicles were just busting MY balls! I told the manager that Toyota is not even authorized to do inspection fixes in the state of NJ. I asked him WHY did Danny boy NOT fill out the paper work at first, and then very sloppilly, when He himself told me he had to fill them out before I even started the work. I wondered whether or not Danny boy or even the management knew that they weren't authorized to do work on inspection failures.

    In the end, I filled out the document as if I did the work myself. I went back to the inspection station where I promply waited 2 hours before being inspected. Guess what the kicker here is..the guy who did the inspection said that my car NEVER really failed emissions in the first place and that the police erroneously made their
    quick inspection of my emissions 'under no load', and the test should have been done WITH a load.
    Infact, my emissions numbers were EXACTLY the same NOW after spending around $500 as they were during the time the erroneous test was made a week earlier!

    Anyway..that was my experience. The bottom line is..the current
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    The rotors are warped

    I've always had the same exact problem on my old 88 V6. I eventually lived with it.

    and your story....which is why I work on my car myself.
  • juzefjuzef Posts: 37
    Hello all,

    Some of you may know me. Over the past two years or so, I've posted my Toyota experience on this site. It's been a while so here's another update.

    First let me say, I love my Camry but as of now, it is not without flaws. I have a 2000 Camry V6 XLE with moonroof and leather. Currently I have 116,000 miles on the car which is alot, but they are mostly highway miles. I've had regular maintaince and oil changes.

    Here's the current status of my car.

    Problems:
    1.) Car shakes when applying brakes on Highway while traveling high speeds (70-80mph). I'm a gentle driver, especially with brakes. For example, I had my brakes changed @100K miles and there were still plenty of thinkness left on the pads. The car was shaking in a similar manner before the brake change but went away after I had the rotars cut and new pads. Recently, after about 3months after the brake change, the car is starting to shake again while braking on HW. I rotated and balance the wheels, with no help. Don't know what to do at this point. I'm afraid this is gonna cost alot of $$$ to fix. I'm inclined to live with the shaking, but it gets me nervous.

    2.) Check Engine Light & Traction Control Light
    - These lights came on at the same time roughly
    a few weeks after the car started to shake. I took the car to a Toyota Dealership. They wanted $70 JUST TO PUT IT ON THE COMPUTER! And they wouldn't apply this to the cost of fixing whatever is causing such a problem. So I took the car to AutoZone..and they put it on the computer for FREE!..turns out the ERG sensor or something related to emissions. Which reminds me of why Bob Ciasulli's Dealership for Service SUCKS..I'll explain further down.

    3.) My 'in-dash-6-CD/Cassette player' Doesn't accept CD's. Infact, this occured about a year ago. Doesn't that SUCK??..believe it or not, this in-dash 6-CD unit costs nearly $1000 to be replayced and the Dealership refused to look at it at the time since I just exceeded the warantee. Well, I'm living without it for now but unhappy about it.

    That's about it. What I'm really worried about is the shaking while driving..if anyone knows about this..please respond.

    Now, let me describe the nightmareish experience I had at Bob Ciasulli's Toyota Dealership on Rt 46 around 1-2 months ago. I hope the whole WORLD including Bob-Ciasulli sees this! A few months ago, I was pulled over for a flash road inspection. Turns out I was late for inspection. Anway to my surprise, I failed the emission's test. I couldn't believe that my 2000 Camry would fail emissions. Hesitantly, I took it to Bob Ciasulli. I hesitated since I had a chilling experience two years earlier with their sales department. I won't go there here. I thought, that their service department would be different. BOY WAS I WRONG!!!

    The service guy was called Danny I believe, a FAST speaking and very impolite gentleman. I'm mentioning his first name only, but this guy was something else..totally disrespecting me as I will now explain. I took the car to him and told him, I failed inspection and that I need to be inspected. He told me he could not inspect my car but he handles failed inspections all the time and was sure he could get my car to pass inspection. He ASKED me if I had the inspection paper work he had to fill out. Turns out I forgot that at home. I told him, after he fixed my car, I'd go home and get the paperwork and bring it back for him to fill out. After putting it on the computer, he suggested some service including changing the spark plugs and wires as well as some sort of cleaning service all of which would cost around $500. Fine..the cost wasn't the problem even though I felt it was too high..I just wanted to get my car to pass inspection and get on my way. So I went home, got the paper work and returned to the dealership and asked Danny to fill out my paper work. He told refused saying No No..I didn't have to fill that out..just use my Receipt which had all the information for the Moter Vehicles EVEN when the paperwork said that the STATE of NJ mandated that the person who did the repairs MUST fill it out. He refused to fill out the paper work and told me to use the reciept..I was irritated but fine..I went to the department of moter vehicles and waited in the small line..since it was still early. When it was my turn, they asked for the paper work and I showed them the reciept. They told me I MUST have the dealer fill out the paper work and refused to check my car. I was bent at this point. I drove back to the dealership and told Danny to FILL out the paper work politely. He resisted but finally agreed to fill it out with a nasty attitude proclaiming the Moter Vehicles and not HIM was giving me a hard time. He quickly SCRIBLED ALL over the document in such a way, my 3 year old God Son could have done a neater job! Fine, he filled it out OK..I left and went back to the dealership..and the line as 3 times as large as last time..taking about 45-1hour for me to get to the inspectors. They looked at the document and they guy said 'What is this??' They couldn't read it! They told me it was incorrectly filled out and unreadable and that the guy who filled it out is 'busting my balls', pardon the language. Anyway..Now I was really upset. The inspector, knowing this was now my 2nd Time at the inspection line, further did some checking and said that that Toyota Dealership is not even Authorized to do any work on my car to fix the emissions problems. At these facts I was furious. He said it would be better for me to do the work myself! They turned me away..and I returned very upset to the Dealership and demanded to speak to his manager. Danny boy sends for a manager. The Manager who came didn't care the least for what just happened to me. Infact, he agreed totally with Danny boy that the Motor Vehicles were just busting MY balls! I told the manager that Toyota is not even authorized to do inspection fixes in the state of NJ. I asked him WHY did Danny boy NOT fill out the paper work at first, and then very sloppilly, when He himself told me he had to fill them out before I even started the work. I wondered whether or not Danny boy or even the management knew that they weren't authorized to do work on inspection failures.

    In the end, I filled out the document as if I did the work myself. I went back to the inspection station where I promply waited 2 hours before being inspected. Guess what the kicker here is..the guy who did the inspection said that my car NEVER really failed emissions in the first place and that the police erroneously made their
    quick inspection of my emissions 'under no load', and the test should have been done WITH a load.
    Infact, my emissions numbers were EXACTLY the same NOW after spending around $500 as they were during the time the erroneous test was made a week earlier!

    Anyway..that was my experience. The bottom line is..the current service at Bob Ciasulli's Toyota Dealership on Rt 46E in N
  • juzefjuzef Posts: 37
    Sorry, my last post was so long I didn't get the above message through. Read my last point and find out why I don't trust the service at Bob Ciasulli on Rt 46E in NJ.

    Hopefully, this will warn others.

    good luck.
  • you can post your reviews/experiences at:

    www.mechanicyak.com
  • We just got a 95 Camry XLE. The trunk light is not working. A new bulb didn't fix it, and all of the fuses are fine. We cannot find any mention of the trunk light in the manual, nor can we find any switch to turn it on and off. Someone mentioned needing to have the headlights on in order for the trunk light to function, but that doesn't work either. Can anyone help? Thank you.
  • Hi Alpha01 and Armtdm,

    Alpha01, I fought it up to the regional rep who denied it. I don't have the expectation that Toyotas last forever as cars are cars, but I do have the expectation that good service and customer satisfaction are two things that can be made to last forever. So that ended my business relationship with Toyota. That's behind me now.

    Armtdm I have replaced the spark plugs with the specified denso double tips platinums and I still have the idle revving problem. I've used two bottles of fuel injection cleaner to no avail. With the transmission in drive and stepping on the brakes, the RPM drops slowly from 1000 (where it's fine) to 600 (where it starts revving to 800 and back). What is the RPM on your cars when you're stopped at a traffic light?

    When I let go of the gas on the highway going 60MPH, I notice slightly more engine drag than before as the RPM drops quickly by about 400 before slowly dropping with speed. I never paid much attention to this before, but in my Honda, when I let go of the gas pedal on the highway, the RPMs slowly diminish with speed and never drops quickly.

    Is there some computer setting that my mechanic should have adjusted after machining the head? Could these two problems be related?

    I am really hating to take this back to the two Toyota dealerships in Fogelsville/Allentown as they are really bad. Granted not as bad as juzef's NJ dealership though.

    Any suggestions you may have would be extremely helpful and appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • Since I don't see a mechanism for threads on this board, I thought a manual thread would be helpful:

    939 - original post
    940 - armtdm's post
    954 - alpha01's post
  • Metallic creaking or popping noises from the area of the two front struts. Dealer removed, cleaned & reinstalled both struts, but action failed to correct problem. Tightening tower brace between struts also failed to correct problem. Occurs whnever body flex is high, such as slow tight turns in a culdesac, or crossing over a speed hump, or sudden acceleration, or uphill starts from a stop. Sounds like same problem as #73.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Mine idles (after warm up) at 750 in gear at a stop and if A/C kick in it will drop to 600-650.
  • I owned 1991 camry. In '98 because of lawsuit of
    overcharging ad fees. Toyota sent me a check of
    $150 for class action suit.

    Coupon due to expire in Dec 31 this year. I am
    trying to sell, there is a 800 number listed
    to call for info. But the number is out of commission.

    wrote to Toyota no reply yet.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,032
    You might get a better response posting your question on the Smart Shopper board.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • It is coming from a little piece of hard rubber/plastic that runs on the inside of the top of the door area that the window closes into. The rattle/crackle occurs with the window up or down or when you push on this little piece with your fingers. Some have said to spray silicon in this area but I do not see how this would help unless the silicon got up underneath this piece. I probably did not do a great job describingg the part but if you look in the area on the inside of the car and follow along the portion where the window goes when fully closed you will see it. It is the same way on the passenger side which explains why I get the same noise there.
    Is there a fix? IS there a bulletin? If I could get rid of these (and the one behind my radio) my car would be almost perfect!!!
  • It is coming from a little piece of hard rubber/plastic that runs on the inside of the top of the door area that the window closes into. The rattle/crackle occurs with the window up or down or when you push on this little piece with your fingers. Some have said to spray silicon in this area but I do not see how this would help unless the silicon got up underneath this piece. I probably did not do a great job describingg the part but if you look in the area on the inside of the car and follow along the portion where the window goes when fully closed you will see it. It is the same way on the passenger side which explains why I get the same noise there.
    Is there a fix? IS there a bulletin? If I could get rid of these (and the one behind my radio) my car would be almost perfect!!!
This discussion has been closed.