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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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  • found a disscussion on the Solara board: (floating calipers.)

    scsolara "Toyota Solara--Part 6" May 18, 2001 8:29am

    My solara '00 Se v6 manual did this as well it was more of a loud click then a thump though as I remember. One of the other items that some people had been disscussing at one time was the fuel tank actually makeing a thunking noise. Mine never did that though.
  • a safety issue?
  • Not that I'd heard of
  • wainwain Posts: 479
    Anyone had one of these?
    I am getting a little oil in the middle and the bottom of the timing belt cover, and I think its coming from the camshaft end seal.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    those oil seals do start to leak eventually. It's best to change them with every timing belt change. It's about an additional $30 to the timing belt job.
  • wainwain Posts: 479
    I had the belt done at 60k by the dealer.
    now 105k.
    I doubt the seal was replaced at 60k - all up cost at dealer, inc belt was like $150 at the time in 1999.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Yea, wish I had mine done at the 120,000 mile mark. Still original. At this point only minor seepage, nothing to write home about. engine only uses 24-28 ounces of oil between 7500 mile changes (seepage and consumption) so I cannot complain at 153,000 miles.
  • wainwain Posts: 479
    for nissan maximas there is a web site that has step by step pictures of many repairs
    http://www.motorvate.ca/

    since there are probably 5x as many camrys as maximas, is there a similar site for Camrys?
  • Right now, the antenna on my 96 camry is stuck in the raised position. When I turn the car on and off, you can hear the motor running. Any solutions?
  • wainwain Posts: 479
    take the thing in the trunk apart, get the broken drive piece out and replace it with one from Pep boys Harada brand OE (19.99) or the same part from Toyota at $39.99
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    As noted above the plastic track belt for the shaft has broken. requires removing the unit in the trunk, then removing a few bolts and once apart the old belt comes out. reinstall, then place the new track into the hole and move the key to acc. The motor will catch the new belt and the rest is obvious. More like $75=$100 at a dealer with labor. Or, you can remove or unplug the motor and go with one that stays up permanently!
  • ivbd85ivbd85 Posts: 5
    Uhh does anybody know what's going on here... I am 17. Just bought a 1995 Camry Le (4cyl.) in December 2002. Purchase price was 3800. Since I bout the car I put new brake pads and rotors, but this doesn't matter. As of now I have black exhuast smoke coming out of my pipe, especially when the gas tank is below 1/4. Strong gas smell often accompanies the problem. Does anyone know what's up. Not to mention the fact that the idle jumps back and forth from 0-1 and the car vibrates inside???? Dont want to put alot of money into the car to fix it. I only plan to keep it till im 18 in Dec2003, but the prob is really getting serious. Wont pass inspection of course.
  • elrlawelrlaw Posts: 20
    '98 Camery CE, 6cyl, AT. Pulls left. Front inside tire treads wearing abnomally. Possible causes? Possible solutions? Thanks, elrlaw
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    ivbd85: Black smoke means the engine is running too rich. Tons of causes, ranging from: blocked air filter, bad mass air flow sensor, blocked throttle plate, bad spark plugs, bad ignition coil, bad spark plug leads, bad O2 sensors, bad fuel injectors etc etc. How many miles on the car and it's history? Any engine codes? You may need to spend some money (depending on the cause(s) from 50 to over 2000 dollars) to get this sorted out unfortunately.

    elrlaw: Likely cause: Bad alignment. Solution: Take it to a workshop for a wheel alignment. About 60-80 dollars excluding any parts such as bent suspension components (if required).
  • frd2kfrd2k Posts: 1
    DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO CHANGE THE BULB.HAD EVERYTHING OFF BUT DON'T SEE A BULBIS IT IN THE INDICATOR IF IT IS HOW DO OPEN IT UP.THANK YOU
  • elrlawelrlaw Posts: 20
    Additional info. for my inquiry #1284 re: Camery pulling left. Pull left is most pronounced when quick acceleration is made at lower speed. When accelerator is not depressed, steering does not pull. Thanks for any help you give.
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    ...may be affected by torque steer such as what you describe, which may be a symptom of bent components, and/or out of alignment suspension.
  • placebidplacebid Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I'm looking to buy a new 4 D sedan. As an older female I need a car I don't need to worry about (ha if that is possible !). AFter reading posts for the Camry, I'm wondering if this car is right for my situation? I'm getting rid of a minv van and looking at Camry, Accord, Taurus & Stratus/Sebring... any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • kybillkybill Posts: 44
    My wife drives a 2000 Camry XLE 4 door and really likes the car. Room, handling, safety, comfort and Toyota reliability are hard to beat. Prior to this, she drove an Olds Bravada and she wasn't sure she would like going back to a car. Now, I'm not sure she would go back to an SUV. Anyway, I suggest that you give the Camry serious consideration.
  • s15as15a Posts: 14
    Hi,

    I have a 129K miles on 1990 Camry. Need to change both axles(clicking sounds when turning). Dealer says inner boots are gone. From calling around/web research, it appears it better to change the axles because the labor is the same.

    1. My question is are the AutoZone or Oreilly CV axles good enough for this job? Dealer CV axles are horribly expensive. Which is better Autozone or Oreilly Auto Parts?

    2. What does an American Made 1990 Camry 4 cylinder with stick shift take for CV axles? Bolt-on or Slip-on CV axles? Autozone couldn't tell me(i'd have to get down under the car to look at it). Oreilly said bolt on.

    Thanks.
  • s15as15a Posts: 14
    Hi,

    I have a 129K miles on 1990 Camry. Need to change both axles(clicking sounds when turning). Dealer says inner boots are gone. From calling around/web research, it appears it better to change the axles because the labor is the same.

    1. My question is are the AutoZone or Oreilly CV axles good enough for this job? Dealer CV axles are horribly expensive. Which is better Autozone or Oreilly Auto Parts?

    2. What does an American Made 1990 Camry 4 cylinder with stick shift take for CV axles? Bolt-on or Slip-on CV axles? Autozone couldn't tell me(i'd have to get down under the car to look at it). Oreilly said bolt on.

    Thanks.
  • s15as15a Posts: 14
    Hi,

    I have a 129K miles on 1990 Camry. Need to change both axles(clicking sounds when turning). Dealer says inner boots are gone. From calling around/web research, it appears it better to change the axles because the labor is the same.

    1. My question is are the AutoZone or Oreilly CV axles good enough for this job? Dealer CV axles are horribly expensive. Which is better Autozone or Oreilly Auto Parts?

    2. What does an American Made 1990 Camry 4 cylinder with stick shift take for CV axles? Bolt-on or Slip-on CV axles? Autozone couldn't tell me(i'd have to get down under the car to look at it). Oreilly said "bolt on" CV axles.

    Thanks.
  • ctaylor4ctaylor4 Posts: 9
    I have a '02 Camry LE. It pulls to the left...on a highway, with in 50 yards I can drift into the other lane if I hold the steering wheel loose.

    The dealer said its not the alingment. The tires are good.

    The wierd thing is that i drove 3 used 2002's and a new 2003 and they all seem to do it.

    I also find myself having to correct to the right a little. Its not something that happens when i brake.

    I know it could be connected to the brakes in some way...has anyone experienced or heard of this being a problem with '02/'03 Camry Le's?
  • 1violinist1violinist Posts: 338
    Ctaylor4:

    I used to have a Chrysler LeBaron that had the same problem. Even after having the wheel alignment service the problem remained. It turned out to be a defect in the rack and pinion. I don't know if that's the case with your Camry.

    Another thought: does it happen all the time in all places? I drive a certain route where there's always a cross-wind from the right, which makes the car pull to the left.

    Good luck!
    Tony
  • ctaylor4ctaylor4 Posts: 9
    thanks! I'm not sure why all of the ones I drove did this pulling thing.

    i drove on all different roads because the dealer told me the highway in front of their place was uneven. (hmmmm)

    I took the one I'm thinking of buying back to the dealer and made the service manager go for a ride. he said it shouldnt do that. there going to look into it tomorrow.

    the dealer and salesman have been great dealer so far...they've gone pretty far to make sure i'm happy..and this is a used car.

    I signed a contract on it to get 3.9% financing which ended 2/28, but its all contingent on me accepting the vehicle. And i'm holding a down payment check until its ok.

    if anyone is in Delaware and looking for a good dealer..i'll let you know how this all goes. so far so good. they're giving me a loaner car tomorrow, which is cool.
  • 1violinist1violinist Posts: 338
    Sounds like a good dealer, but do NOT buy the car unless the problem is accurately diagnosed, properly fixed and guaranteed to you IN WRITING!

    Gool luck!
    Tony
  • jdeibjdeib Posts: 70
    My '02 SE had a rattle that seemed to be behind the glovebox. My dealer was able to fix it by retorquing the strut bolts. The TSB number is SU001-03. If anyone knows of TSB fixes for any other rattle issues please post them. I am having an intermittent rattle on the driver's side where the seatbelt mounts to the side pillar.

    Thanks in advance for any help.

    Jayme
  • This was posted by: macabee who works at a Toyota delaership...I live in PA where the door pillar rattle only surfaces when the temp is above 35 or so...which would be a heat wave at this point in time...I am hopefull in the spring the dealer can fix the door pillars without creating other rattles. Also, when the temp is below 35, I get an assortment of other rattles from the dash...hopefully these go away in the spring. Finally, I copied your post to the RATTLES forum where there are quite a few folks who will appreciate the TSB number...personally I have heard of these strut noise solutions. But in my car the rattle really appeards to come from the dash, mostly on the drivers side. Here was mackabee's post:

    Andre, sorry for not getting back to you sooner. It's month end around here and I don't know why but seems like everybody and their sister want to buy a car at the end of the month. I didn't get the TSB numbers but they do exist, I even saw the one for the "thunk in the trunk" most are very easy fixes, the thunk in the trunk and even some in the front are from the struts. The nut that goes over the struts were not tightened to specs according to the tsb. I'm sure if you bring this up to your service department they can look them up for you. Have them look in the TIS computer, they should know what you are talking about or in the Dealer Daily. If they ask how you know about these systems, just tell them you have connections with Toyota ; )
                             Mackabee
  • ctaylor4ctaylor4 Posts: 9
    You're right...i wont buy it unless its perfect and guaranteed in writing.

    when we drew up the contract i had them write this on it...that i could back out of the deal unless I was satisfied it was ok. Assuming they fix it and tell me what was wrong and it makes sense to me, I'll add that also. thanks.

    i have the balance of the 36 month warranty..and its certified (although i thought they were supposed to check these things!) and they added bumper to bumper to the certified warranty...so its covered with that until 2008.

    other then that problem the car seems great...12k miles, clean. they said they got them thru toyota, who was leasing them on a one year program..i think around Washington DC. They have like 8 of them.

    so far its been my best experience with a dealer. hopefully it continues.

    everything in writing!! this thing will have to drive dead straight and they'll have to write down exatly what was wrong.

    thanks

    colleen
  • 1violinist1violinist Posts: 338
    Hey Colleen!

    Since they're trying so hard to please you, you might as well tell them to install an in-dash 6-cup Coffee Maker hooked up to the cup holders!!! :-)

    If you have a 36 month warranty, that will cover your car till 2006 not 2008. It should also mention the mileage (usually 36,000), whichever comes first. Please double check all the info before you accept the deal.

    Let me know how things go.
    Tony
This discussion has been closed.