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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • manu7manu7 Posts: 1
    I have a '93 camry 4cyl.
    When i start it for the first time in the day it goes out fine ( although initially it gives out a little white smoke). After driving it for quite a distance (8-10 miles) and letting it rest, when i start driving the car again, it leaves a huge puff of white smoke behind.
    Then the car works normally until brought to a stop. This usually happens when the car is kept resting for a short duration ( less than an hour or so).
    Any suggestions?Thanks!
  • kybillkybill Posts: 44
    I've fought that streaking problem on every vehicle I've owned. It's not just plasticers, but a combination of all kinds of gunk. I've tried all manner of cleaners, but they all seem to streak or leave a fogging of the glass. The best thing I've found is to just dry wipe the glass with a good cotton bath towel. It requires a bit of exertion, but leaves no residue to attract dirt. Hope this helps.
  • little pogi Its almost a week you cleaned the IAC valve let me know if every thing is running fine. I read in the book it says I have to remove whole throttle assembly to get to this valve. Is it easy or I need some special tools or skills?

    Awaiting for your comments.....
  • I just got the sign for the Malfunction Lamp on my 96 CAMRY LE. The manual says there might be a problem with the engine or transmssion electrical system. I have appt with the dealer in 2 days. They said it is a probably a problem in the computer circuit but I can drive it for a while.

    IS this a serious problem and how much does it cost to get this fixed normally.?

    Thanks in adavance.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Could be anything from a loose gas cap to a defective catalytic converter. There's no average repair cost as such. Depends on what's wrong. The only way to tell is to have the diagnostic trouble codes retrieved from the engine control computer, which AutoZone will do for free.
  • I have 1996 Camry LE which is displaying the Check engine. I took to a Toyota Dealer and they said the Emissions Control was malfunctioning VSV at Charcoal Canister not Switching, to clear the problem they will have to replace this the VSP unit and want $250 for the part + $100 for the labor.

    Are they asking too much and if so will a regular mechanic be able to do this for less?

    Thanks in advance and appreciate any feedback,
  • I have 1996 Camry LE which is displaying the Check engine. I took to a Toyota Dealer and they said the Emissions Control was malfunctioning VSV at Charcoal Canister not Switching, to clear the problem they will have to replace this the VSP unit and want $250 for the part + $100 for the labor.

    Are they asking too much and if so will a regular mechanic be able to do this for less?

    Thanks in advance and appreciate any feedback,
  • 1998 Camry XLE V6 - 91000 miles.
    This is in response to message 280, 289, and 274. After my experience with the IAC valve I just had to share in hopes of preventing another sale of an overpriced part that basically just needs to be cleaned.

    I replaced this valve myself. I knew this was the cause of my idle problem based on a friend who had the same problem. Also the local Toyota dealer says they replace these things everyday. You would think Toyota would come up with a solution.

    Yes - the only way to replace it is to remove the the throttle body (TB). The IAC valve is on the bottom of the TB with no access. The 4 screws that hold the valve to the TB were so tight I had to grab them with vice grips to break them loose! Be prepared to lose some coolant as their are two coolant hoses and a manifold air hose that connects to the IAC. I did not replace the gasket between the TB and the manifold. Treat it carefully and you should be OK.

    I discovered that the valve was stuck in the closed position due to carbon deposits. I was able to remove the electronic activator and work the valve back and forth with my fingers. A little solvent and it now works freely. Had I known this going in I could have easily done this same thing WITHOUT removing and replacing the IAC valve. The electronic actuator is easily accessible. Remove the large rubber intake hose and there is the electronic actuator (right below the butterfly throttle valve). Remove the 2 screws and pull it off. Twist the post (end of the valve mechanism) with fingers or something that will not mar it until it moves freely between the extreme positions. Reassemble and you are running like new again! Probably not a long term solution but a lot cheaper! I could do this procedure in about 15 to 30 minutes.

    Ideally, some type of spray aerosol that could be sprayed up the IAC valve intake tube that connects to the intake manifold would be able to clean the valve and keep it in good working condition.
  • tmt1961tmt1961 Posts: 14
    i have the same problem as you andrelaplume, sometimes it does not crank at 1st try, have to try a few times to crank. i see your post what happens to your rav4 starting problem.thanks,
  • That was a while back but as I recall the solution to the problem was to replace the Nuetral Saftey Switch...it was under warranty at the time but still I do not think it was really Expensive...$100 - $150 or less....not that that is cheap. Since replacement the problem has not returned.
  • I recently took ownership of my father's 1992 Camry and it came with the dampest trunk this sie of the Titanic. The trunk is damp and mildewy, and a package of napkins left overnight basically became wetnaps. I put a container of DampRid in the back but it does not seem to be helping. Ani ideas/suggestions?
  • My car in the mornings always starts to shake and the RPM's would bounce around like 100 this way and that way. I think this is because of the Idle Air Control Valve. I am wondering how do I clean it. I heard it is very easy but where is it and how do I take it apart and clean it. Please help me as i dont want to pay dealer's rediculous prices
  • cgwongcgwong Posts: 3
    Did you get a notice from toyota about a year ago? It was for California Emissions Warranty Enhancement.

    if it is your catalytic converter, they sent a notice about a "special enhancement for certain 96 through 98s on the evaporative control system for 14 years or 150K miles. it is supposed to cover "any other part or component betwen the fuel tank and the intake manifold (but not including the intake mainifold)designed to contain or conduct fuel vapor from the fuel system."

    i'm definitely not a mechanic. The last time I had a check engine light, my mechanic felt it might come under that warranty when he did the diagnostic. But, by the time i brought it to the dealership, the light cleared and so did the code.

    I do get the check engine light at least once a year, and it we think it's been related to the gas cap.
  • Hi,

    I am having a similar noise problem with my camry as posted in #273. Can any one tell me what I need to tell the dealer about it. I have been having this noise probelm since i bought the car in January, but hopefully planning to show it to dealer this weekend. Any tips will be helpful.

    Thanks
  • 1999 Camry CE I4 - 45000 miles.
    My wife jumped start the car in the morning last Friday. She drove around 10 miles to office. After she left office, the engine didn’t start again. Her colleague helped her to jump it again. I bought a brand new battery and changed the old one on Saturday. The battery ran out of electronic this morning. I guess the alternator died but I am a newbie for car. Do you have any idea?
  • The Solara car salesmen dont like negative questions. My car has ALWAYS made a hard noise going over bumps.
    Toyota says its normal. What the solution???
  • I just had to return my 2004 solara which the dealership reluctantly is buying back. My car pulled to the left which they could not fix. After finding the exact same car at another dealership, that pulled to the left as well. Now they won't sell me an SE Sport model in the 2004 because they think there is a problem with it, although they are still selling them to new customers who may not be aware of the problem. BEWARE! Any similar problems with other 2004 Solara or SE Sport models?
  • theflowtheflow Posts: 98
    I actually feel the car is drifting to both sides, but the drifting to the left is more noticeable. I haven't driven the car for the past couple of days. But I will try to find a flat road tomorrow and see if it drifts. Did the dealer rebalance the alignment? What other services have they done to the vehicle?

    So the dealership actually repurchased your vehicle? Which dealership is that? Do you know if Toyota is aware of the problem?
  • theflowtheflow Posts: 98
    I just drove my car. Seems like the steering wheel is a bit too "light." So a slight uneven on the road will kinda cause the steering wheel to turn, causing the car to drift to certain side. But that's only my observation. If you guys hear anything, please post it here.
  • Steering never str8! Get used to it. Front end seems to be failing at 50,ooo miles! Great!
  • The Solara is not built within it own specs. I have the same prob, cuz the ASI is 3 degrees off.This car sucks!
  • theflowtheflow Posts: 98
    "Front end seems to be failing at 50,ooo miles!"

    Damn. That spoils my weekend. Glad I purchased the extended warranty.

    "cuz the ASI is 3 degrees off."

    What is ASI? (I don't know too much about cars)

    Your Solara is 2000? Do you have problems, like uneven tire wear, due to the poor steering?
  • I just added some brake fluid and the break light came on. How do you reset it?
  • I have an 02 Camry SE. I put miles on my car. (highway) 33,200 to date. Since 8,000 miles, my rotors had a shimmy. The dealer cut them....WRONG. 6,000 miles later same thing. They should have been replaced. Try to go into a auto parts store and get rotors for a 02 Camry. NOT available. Catch 22. Toyota knows they are bad. You have to buy them from Toyota. Why should I if they could be the same type rotor. A real mess. You are lucky they replaced yours at no charge. I've been trying to no avail. I printed out all the complaints about the rotors and the solutions (replaced) from this web site to show them...Forget it..Anyone with suggestions?
  • mzincsmzincs Posts: 1
    I would be most appreciative for any guidance that my fellow Posters could provide for me. Specifically, my Camry appears to have a bad front suspension bushing on the passenger side. During casual conversation, the Service Writer at the local Toyota Dealership revealed that it is not uncommon for the Camry to develop a problem with the bushing that sits on top of the front suspension assembly. Moreover, he stated that upon replacement, the front strut would not need to be replaced. Upon further investigation, I received an estimate from a local independent mechanic: For $500 he would replace both front-end struts and both front stock tower bushings. In addition, he would align the car.
         Given that I hear the rattling noise only occasionally (usually in the AM going over speed-bumps), and I don't know whom to trust, I was thinking about not replacing anything! Therefore, I was hoping that a fellow Camry owner could provide with me some guidance concerning my situation.
  • jim260jim260 Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Solara and have experienced multiple component failures over the past two years. The first was a wheel hub and bearing assembly for $450, next were front struts and mounts for $600, and then last week was the a/c compressor for $2000. I'm smelling a lemon - anyone else having similar bad luck or is this fairly typical for the Solara?
  • jim260jim260 Posts: 2
    Toyota knows all about this problem. The top strut mounts are too light and will start too rattle after a while. Run, if you are still under warranty to get them replaced. I was 400Km over warranty and they said tough luck.
  • tmt1961tmt1961 Posts: 14
    what is your car mileage? a/c compressor for $2k, it sounds very high, check with other for the repair
  • I complained about this when the car was new, and it only happens in cooler weather. It seems to be common. Toyota checked my car a few times and said nothing wrong. My problem is a groan from the front passenger side. Would that be an accurate description???
  • I've got an 88 V-6 Camry with 90k miles that I plan to keep it another 3+ years. On my prior cars I'd usually replace the struts about this time rather than wait until the last minute. At least I'd get a few years of enjoyment out of them.

    It's just a bit bouncy at this point. The tail drags a bit with 4 adults. The strut tower problem was fixed long ago.

    Any thoughts on my timing and any advice on the brand of struts? I'd expect the OEMs to be the best but they have to be pricy.

    BTW - It's been everything you used to be able to count on in a Toyota. Strictly routine maintenance. Check engine light did come on once - 1,000 miles from home on a Saturday. Pulled into a dealer in Ft. Myers, got treated like the Mayor and was on my way in a hour.
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