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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • Your problem appears to be dirty fuel injectors.

    Fill one tank with premium gas (i. e. Shell's new VPOWER with 5 detergents, adding one bottle of fuel injectors cleaner. It should fix your starting problem.

    If not, open the air hose into the fuel injector unit, spray in 2 cans of injector cleaner while revving the engine to about 3000 RPM to clean out any gummed up mechanism inside.

    These tricks solved my cold starting/idling problem.
  • If one blinker is burned, the other will blink at roughly twice the normal frequency.

    You should check both bulbs out, replace, clean or apply bulb oil as necessasy. Make sure the both bulbs are properly seated in the sockets and have good ground contact.
  • Thanks, RWL. Your message helped me get the dealer to fix the stuttering, jerky shift between 1st and 2nd gears on my 4-speed automatic transmission on my 2004 Camry LE. This intermittent problem was most noticeable during moderate acceleration after the transaxle reached normal operating temperature. Here is an update that other folks with this problem can print and take to the dealer get him to fix the problem (that is what I did with RWL's posting). First, Toyota issued a Service Bulletin on September 13, 2004 that identified the problem AND the fix (so at least now Toyota recognizes the problem and has a soluition). The Service Bulletin said that the Valve Body Assembly has been improved to correct this problem. Although it took the dealer 5 days to get and install the parts, the problem has gone away - hurray! The parts installed by the dealer to fix the problem are: 35410-33160 (Valve Body Assembly), 35168-21011 (Transaxle gasket), 35251-30020 (Check Ball Body), and 00279-000T4-01 (ATF Transmission Fluid). And, like you, they took care of the side curtain airbag recall at the same time (less that 1% of the vehicles actually have a problem with the side curtain air bags). My thanks to everyone who help track down this annoying problem.
  • monty1monty1 Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Camry XL E. The driver side window, once is rolled down by the power window, it does not come up right-a-way. I need to wait for a couple of minutes before it slowly comes up to the close position. It seems like the window power motor needs to be charged up before doing its thing. The battery is brand new on the car.

    Can anybody help??
    mk
  • bd21bd21 Posts: 437
    It has nothing to do with the battery. It is most likely the regulator attached to the window motor. You can go to almost any auto glass shop to get it fixed. The repair will run you $150 to $300, depending on the price of the part.
  • wabrywabry Posts: 2
    It takes about 3-4 seonds to start my 03 Camry LE (8300 miles only) in the morning. After it's started, there is no problem (takes about 1 seond) to start it again until next morning. It sounds like the battery is dying. But the battery is fine. If I add a bottle of HEET Gas-Line Antifreeze and Water Remover when I fill up gas, it would significantly improve starting. But I have to add a bottle of Heet everytime I fill up the gas tank to keep it that way. Any one knows what's wrong? Thanks.
  • bd21bd21 Posts: 437
    Take it to the dealer and leave it overnight. It could be a number of things, but why guess. You have a warranty, so let the dealer figure it out.
  • wabrywabry Posts: 2
    I guess I may have to. Posting it here to get some idea what might be wrong and, if the problem is not that serious, save two trips to dealer. Thanks anyway.
  • mbootmboot Posts: 1
    2003 Camry. most of the time, when I speed up the car, or when I hit the brake to stop it, there is a sound like fluid flowing backwords/forwards in pipes inside the car. What is causing it? Thanks in advance.
  • bd21bd21 Posts: 437
    You have air trapped in your radiator/heater core. Take it to the dealer, they can get it out. It can be messy job to try do yourself and you are under warranty anyway.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    More likely you are hearing gasoline sloshing around in a partly full gas tank, not in the radiator.
  • Please Help! My '97 Camry's Check Engine light came on (and yes I checked and the engine is there!) I purchased a engine analyzer (autoxray) and the following Trouble Codes came up: P0171 System Too Lean-Bank 1; P1130 A/F Sensor Performance Fault-Bank 1; P1135 A/F sensor Heater Circuit-Bank 1. Can someone tell me what part or parts need to be repaired or replaced? I'd rather do the work myself if I knew what was wrong and what part or parts I need. Anyone have any experience with this or can point me in the right direction. Much Thanks, Donna (Love the car-got 98,700 miles and lookin for an even 100K!)
  • donbaadonbaa Posts: 4
    My 97 LE 4cyl also has clattering near the engine that is worse on a cold start. It does not sound like an internal engine noise to me. I think this engine was always noisy and once asked the dealer service manager to listen to it. He said it was normal. But now it is much worse on start up. Anyone know what this might be? How about a belt tensioning pulley?
  • themoon77themoon77 Posts: 102
    As stated above I have an 89 Camry V6 with about 160,000 miles. When I start the car in the morning, the car stumbles for just a moment then revs way up(I have no tach, but the idle is way above the usual slight cold idle level) and stays at that rpm, lowering slightly as the engine warms up. It takes around 10 minutes on a cold morning for the idle to settle down(and this is while driving, I never let it just sit there). Also, and this may be related, I drive approximately 30 miles on the Freeway every day. After 15 miles one way of approximately 70 to 75 miles per hour, I come to a stop at the end of the exit ramp and the idle goes way down(the car sometimes actually dies) then rebounds only to slow way down again. This idle "roller coaster" has continued for approximately 3 minutes, but usually I'm not stopped at the light that long. What could be causing my problems? I have been considering changing the timing belt and water pump as it has been about 67,000 miles since it was last done(the belt that is, my pump is original equip). Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Take note, I have had the cold start injector serviced. The car starts fine when cold, it just idles extremely fast.

    Steve
  • esaculesacul Posts: 11
    My 96 Camry LE has the same problem. Whatever that motor stuff was replaced by the dealer to fix the problem and the problem still exists. It is not always there.
  • themoon77themoon77 Posts: 102
    That is usually caused by sticky valves. It takes a second or two for the oil pressure to build up to where they are properly lubricated, since they are right up on top just beneath the valve cover. It's not a serious problem. If you start to hear that clacking noise constantly(not the little clicking from the fuel injectors) you need a valve adjustment. Expect the clacking to be worse when the weather turns colder.

    Steve
  • I have had a reoccuring problem with my 95 camry. It sometimes stalls when I get to a stop light, and then it has some trouble starting. I can get it to turn over but it doesn't get the spark. You can sometimes smell gas when I am trying to start it. (I did not touch the gas) Lately, when I get ready to go at a stop light, I press the gas and it almost dies, so I let go and it recovers. I have already changed the ignition coil and Toyota cannot find anything else wrong. Some have said it could be with the fuel injectors. Any help would be great.

    Thanks
  • I'm having 2 problems with my 90 Camry and need some advice.
    1. When first starting car in the morning or after several hours, there's a large puff of blue-white smoke. I've been told this is caused by valve seals. Is this correct, and if so, what would be an estimated cost to replace?
    2. There's a "grinding" noise (that's the best way I can describe it) that sounds like its coming from the bottom front of the car when I'm driving. It's worse when I go over a rough road, speed bumps, etc. Doesn't matter if I'm applying brakes or not. I've had the car 3 months. Was told the brakes had been replaced all around. I've replaced timing belt and had new front struts put on. Any ideas what this noise could be coming from?
    Thanks,
    Jackie
  • bd21bd21 Posts: 437
    Valve seals are indeed most likely the cause, but it could be from gummed up oil journals in the head too, if they oil was not changed on a regular basis. Take off your oil cap and look with a flashlight for build up which will verify that problem. If it looks O.K., the valves seals will cost you several hundred dollars to replace. I would just keep driving it and check your oil regularly. It will run O.K. like that for a pretty long time. As far as the noise, I suspect your CV joints are bad. Sear, Firestone or any other shop can confirm that for you for free. Good luck!
  • Thanks for the advice. Someone had told me it could be bushings needed to be replaced, someone else said it wasn't bushings, but didn't know what it was. I'll take it to Sears. Thanks again.
  • I had the same thing happen with my 1990 Camry - on the interstate, no less! The fuel pump had gone bad. I replaced it and it's been fine since.
  • artmartm Posts: 1
    I'm not getting any heat in my 1990 Camry. The hoses going into the firewall are hot to the touch, so I suspect there is a baffle that makes the air flow over the heater. Where is that baffle and baffle switch located?
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 1998 Toyota Camry LE with 112,000 miles on it. It has the 2.2L 4-cylinder. I have been noticing that when you accelerate up a hill or when you first get going, there is some kind of a "fast rattling" type sound from the hood, but it goes away.

    Is this something that is supposed to happen?

    I was just curious, but the car runs GREAT. Everything works in it.

    Thanks for any comments!
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Also, on my Camry, when you floor it, it DOES NOT finally shift at higher speeds until 5800RPM! For example, if I am merging onto the interstate, if I like floor it up to speed (usually I go to 75MPH), the car goes up in RPM's until 5800, then finally shifts down to about 2800, which is where it runs at 75MPH.

    If I remember correctly, I think the car has always done this. But, maybe it is just because it is only a 4-cylinder trying to get to speed? Also, if the car is parked and you rev it, it doesn't stop revving until that EXACT same rotation speed (5800RPM).

    Beside that, normal acceleration and driving, the transmission shifts just fine and smoothly.

    THANKS!
  • ian721ian721 Posts: 93
    Any automatic tranny will rev higher than normal if you floor it. That's to take advantage of the higher power the engine puts out at higher rpms. If I'm going 55 and floor it my Camry will drop a gear and rev to around 6000 before it upshifts again into overdrive.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Also, on my Camry, when you floor it, it DOES NOT finally shift at higher speeds until 5800RPM! For example, if I am merging onto the interstate, if I like floor it up to speed (usually I go to 75MPH), the car goes up in RPM's until 5800, then finally shifts down to about 2800, which is where it runs at 75MPH.

    If I remember correctly, I think the car has always done this. But, maybe it is just because it is only a 4-cylinder trying to get to speed? Also, if the car is parked and you rev it, it doesn't stop revving until that EXACT same rotation speed (5800RPM).

    Beside that, normal acceleration and driving, the transmission shifts just fine and smoothly.

    THANKS!
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    Maintenance calls for trans service @ 30K on my '02 V6. Dealer wants $130 for a flush and fill. Why not just drain and replace fluid? What's the capacity if I just drain and fill myself? Flushing at 30K just sounds like a money maker for the service dept. And the flush doesn't include a new filter screen.
  • loucapriloucapri Posts: 214
    $130 for a flush and fill, I will have them do it. It will cost about $200 for the same job in Seattle.
    I remembered I took my Camry to GreaseMonkey to drain and replace the filter, it cost ~ $90.00 already. They can only drain about 1/3 of the fluid out from the system. A flush usually can suck out almost all of the fluid from the tranny. 30K sounds about a right time. If you didn't drive your car hard and your tran. fluid still looks pink and good, I guess you can wait for maybe 40k or 48k miles before getting a flush.
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  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    Loucapri.....The flush and fill at the dealer for $130 does not include removing the pan and cleaning the screen/filter. They say it's not necessary. The fluid looks good and smells good but changing the fluid at 30k is required to maintain the drive train warranty. I could drain the pan, clean the screen and replace the gasket and add new fluid myself for $30. Do you know what is required for the warranty, just drain and replace the fluid or a complete flush? Thanks.
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