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Chrysler 300M Electrical/Lighting



  • this am my abs and trac control warning lights went on and stayed on . used car last night and all was fine. when starting ,trac light on light comes on and goes off but trac off light stays on . have a 99 300 m .should i disconnect battery cable and let it clear out? any ideas?
  • Hello, i have seen some similar posts on braking but none that clearly deifne an issue. I have a 99 300M with 144K on it. This morning as I am backing out of the driveway I continued to role back into traffic with my 2 little ones in the back. Thank GOD! we were able to stop as I practically stood on the brake.
    I get a hissing sound when I push the brake pedal. You can hear it while sitting in the car, the brake has to be pressed all the way to the floor. I have not driven it at all as this would definitely not be safe. I have thought master cylinder could be the problem or perhaps the brake power booster. I mean we all have the same car their has to be similar fixes right?
    And for most of you who are having electrical issues or stall out issues. Try simply getting the battery positive ad negative terminal wires and posts changed. For some reason chrysler thought it a good idea to place the battery low on the car and by the wheel well no less. I was stalling bad, thought it was the alternator, NOPE simply the positive/negative connection wires that were beyond corroded and the posts were barely touching the battery(stripped)
  • Hey i have a 2000 300M and i was wonderin how to replace the roof click sights. They both went out. They doors will be open and all the lights come on except the roof ones. I want to get new bulbs but i dont know how to take off the little covers. Can anyone help? :confuse:
  • I've read lots of posts and am not the least bit encouraged by what I find. I've determined that my car is a major POS....but I can't afford to replace it just yet.

    I'm having problems with the front passenger power window. The damn thing is stuck in the down position...fortunately it's not down all the way (this time). It was stuck in the down position one other time so I took it in to the shop to have it fixed. I had to have the door torn open and the motor replaced - cost me $150. Now the window is only down a little bit, but is stuck again. I don't want to pay to have another motor replaced, so for now I've got plastic taped over the opening...real attractive.

    Anyone have any ideas for getting the stupid window back up....that won't cost me money? I've already tried forcing it back up...didn't work.
  • I have a 2004 300m, and all of the interior lights blink and flash and sometimes the dome lights will just come on while im driving down the road. Ive noticed that if i mess with the switch it will stop most of the time. However, there have also been times when while the car is parked, off and the keys removed that the headlights will come on and off by themselves. Sometimes quickly and sometimes they will stay on for several seconds. This spell can last as long as 10-15 minutes according to people who have noticed it. Any thoughts on the problem?
  • Good morning,

    I am curious about your car's headlights coming on and off by themselves, as I have had ta similar experience with my 2001 300m. The car belonged to my father, who passed earlier this year. On two separate occasions (as I stood talking to two friends)~the tail lights came on a off a number of times in rapid succession, as if they were blinking at us. The car had not been driven recently, was locked, the keys were in the house, and no one else was in the vicinity. Yesterday was the second occurrance of this phenomonen, and this time, the lights went on and off about three times and then stayed on. After several minutes, with the lights still on, I told my friends~ the same friends that had been with me the first time~ that I was not going anywhere until the lights went off~which they did, about three seconds after I made the comment! Is this similar to the experience you have had? I am curious to know more about this phenomenom, and if others have witnessed the same thing. Thanks!
  • We have the same problem with a 1999 300M and have no idea what is causing the problem We suspect it is the light sensor on the top of the dash, but don't know Now that my daugher has taken the car to college, it is periodically running the battery all the way down and leaving her stranded. If you find out what's wrong, please post the answer.
  • Hi, thanks for your message. If I discover the cause, I will contact you asap!
    By the way, are you familiar with the device that keeps a car battery charged at all times? It is mostly intended for people that don't use their cars very often, but it might be helpful for your daughter, if her battery runs down frequently due to this problem. If you need more info, let me know and I will check on details from my friend who has this device.
    Best wishes,
  • Thanks Diane, I am anxious to find out the cause of the problem. If you are referring to a trickle charger, I don't think that will help her as the parking is in a large lot in the middle of nowhere.

    Please forward your solution.

    Thanks :)
  • The first time this happened to us we had our mechanic look at the windows and all they had to do was get the window pane lose from the door's insulation.

    There are two simple ways to prevent this problem. This problem is the result of the windows becoming stuck in the door frame insulation. If the windows are closed to just touching the door frame they will not get stuck. Close them all the way and then open it just enough that the window stays in contact with the door, but is not driven deep inside the insulation. Another solution is to just make a point of opening the windows once weekly because if they move out of the door insulation periodically they do not get stuck inside it. I find it works well in winter to just make opening the windows for a moment part of my routine of letting the car warm up.
  • I have a 2001 300m with about 140k miles on it. I'm not looking to dump a bunch of money into the car. Sometimes, the front driver window will always go down, but will just not always go back up. Randomly, it will just work again without changing anything. Electrical systems seem to be running properly. All other windows, heated motorized seats, and other electrical processes are running just fine. Am I looking at a motor issue in the driver door? If so, what might the cost be to replace and how easy is that to do on your own? Any info anybody can give me would be much appreciated!
  • jsharonjsharon Posts: 1
    It looks like the amp has gone bad and the dealer has no options for replacement. I also checked with Crutchfield to either bypass the amp or replace it and they had no solutions. What fuses and where are they located that may have blown, other than the fuse box by the drivers door? Don't want to upgrade anything but just a simply replacement to get the radio working. All other functions appear correct except no sound from any speaker, power going to everything, connections good and with all the speakers I assume the amp is in series with the radio and the most likely problem. Thanks in advance for any help.
  • I had this problem a year ago, the mechanic ( same one since new) who KNOWS this car, said it was the ignition switch... while this seems strange, it does have the Auto light section of the switch. He replaced the switch an problem went away.
  • Ok, I have had the flickering lights issue an posted a reply as to what my mechanic did to fix it a year ago. My issue now is yesterday my tail lights stayed on after I turned of the lights. I did not see them on later an assumed they were somehow related to the headlight timer (even though the headlights themselves turned off just fine). This morning the car was hard to start. when I finished my errand, I turned off headlights, an noticed red reflections on objects behind me, rotated the headlight switch through range a-off-on- off, but did not fix. I removed the keys, got out an went to back an saw the taillights were still on. It was still dark out an I could not read fuse panel to remove light fuse. Has anyone had this problem, if so what did you find, please?
  • Did you get that fixed, I have the same problem??
  • bruhnskabruhnska Posts: 4
    I am also having this issue with my '02 300M special. On a few occasions I have witnessed while driving my lights flicker, thought the light sensor was confused by shade/sun. Then it will do it in the middle of the night, one time it happened for a few seconds flashing on and off, then this last time (my husband and I were sleeping) my neighbor saw it and it happened for a few hours, she thought something was wrong and I was trying to signal for help so she knocked on the door (we just thought our dog heard an animal LOL), but we didn't even get up.

    Also my temp control panel light has gone out. It used to go on then dim down but it doesn't bother turning on, It is set to 'auto' in hopes that I will get what I need but is it a fuse or a bulb that I can change out in my dash?
  • Ok we have a 99 300m and all the problems u are having we had too! WE changed 2 computers, and still have the same problems! We even took our car to Chysler and had them replace the BCM and same things are happening! It has something to do with the BCM and fuse box but they cant even figure it out! Good luck and if you get anywhere please let us know
  • Hi. I just bought a 99 300 and it is having the same problem. I did a google search and found a YouTube video of a guy that claimed he also had the same problem. He claims to have fixed it buy pulling the plug and cleaning the wires that went into it. I am going to try it myself once the sun comes up here where I live. I'll let you know how it goes. Worst case, they sell units for around 80 bucks on ebay.
  • I just purchased a 99 Chrysler 300 from my cousin and he said the sunroof had been hard wired to the fuse box when he got it, but had disconnected it and couldn't recall where to reconnect it. When I open the fuse panel on the inside of the car there are 2 red wires dangling in there that apparently go to it. Is there an easy way to reconnect them to SOMETHING to get it to work again? I have looked at the wiring diagram for it, but it may as well be written in hieroglyphics
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