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How Long Can My Honda Civic Last??

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Comments

  • I have a 1994 Honda Civic LX 4dr sedan. It has over 228,000 miles on it.

    But I have to tell you. Over the life of the car I was religious about following the maintenance schedule recommended by Honda. And I had oil changes done 3-4 times a year.

    The engine is still good. The body is good. There is very little rust. And I was not good about washing the car.

    About 4 years ago she started burning oil. So, I have to put a quart of oil every 400-500 miles.

    I am hoping to get another year out of her.

    Enjoy your Civic!
  • My Civic has about 150,000 highway miles. Have it serviced at the dealer according to maintenance schedule. A couple days ago my A/C seemed to die. I tried to check the coolant level. Followed the manual instructions but found it impossible to see the max and min lines on the reservoir. Do I need to get under the car? Wanted to fill it myself if it was low, but I can't tell. Thanks. :P
  • Shame you didn't get the oil problem fixed cause you would be good to keep the car going indefinitely. I have a 97 Civic with 87,000 miles on it and plan to keep forever. Also have a 02 besides regular maintenance, tires, brakes replaced once and a battery replacing both sets of struts this year was the first major repair. Car looks like and runs like new. Why would anyone buy anything else?
  • awn7eawn7e Posts: 12
    I am delighted to read about fellow Civic owners who, like me, 1) love their cars 2) have put tons of miles on it 3) plan to keep it forever.

    Min4e is a 99 LX four door auto with 201,500 miles. I have done nothing except the regular oil changes and replacement of parts as they fail (timing belt, water pump, rotor, catalytic converter, oxygen sensor, manifold, alternator, mid-pipe).

    One major problem I have with this car is that it burns oil. A lot of times when I check the dipstick, it's either completely dry or below minimum. I have had this problem since almost day one. I am not sure what can be done about it.

    Any ideas?
  • Summary: Based on my experience and observations there should be no issues for at least 50k and with proper maintanence until 200k (or till car is 15). Then you will want to inventory the condition and possible corrosion issues. If you live in a cold climate washing the salt off the under body of the car during the winter is a good investment of time and money.

    Caveat: Obviously certain "unorthodox" driving styles can lead a dramatic decline in longevity. For reasons best understood by the practitioners some people shift automatic transmissions manually. More realistically superharsh gridlock commutes and saline drenched roads like the Chicago area can also be problematic.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----

    I had a 1993 Civic. I got it when I was 16 (it was new) and replaced it at 203k miles with a new Civic DX-VP this May. It absorbed a huge amount amount of punishment: I consistently drove it at terminal velocity when I first got my license and live in the pothole covered salt slicks of Chicago. Though being averse to bicycles and public transportation I never stirred the gearbox.

    The corrosion and a number of routine maintenance issues that were coming due on my 93 prompted the change to the new car. The 93 needed its tune-up and the 2nd timing belt/waterpump was overdue, its dilapidated radiator was a decade old, the brakes were kaput and the tires were bald. All important issues whose interval had arrived. The combined expense of these items was not a viable investment.

    Another incentive for change was my new Civic DX-VP at 14.2 cost only 2500 more than the original one did in 1993 (the 93 lacked the VP's A/C, hubcaps, power windows, passenger side mirror).

    I don't know if each generation of Civic's fares better against the onset of longterm corrosion but I suspect there is good chance that exposed to the same conditions your car might fare slightly better than my 5th generation did- the trend seems to be upward in that realm. But we won't know for 5 years.

    Unfortunately this corrosion is a threat and is time contingent as well and miles contingent. Flying in the face of some conventional and outmoded wisdom it will effect the suspension components and underbody of an Volvo, S-Class Mercedes or Jeep just as much as a subcompact. In fact, it is a less expensive problem for the cheaper to repair subcompact. I did have to replace a tie-rod at 193k miles. The gauntlet of potholes, bumps, salt and snow were the culprits. Move to a sunny climate with reasonable roads and this wouldn't have occurred unless I made a habit of plowing into curbs.

    I don't know if other snowy climates use the salt levels that Chicago does, or if the roads look like they have been hit with JDAM GDU anti-runway munitions. Those issues are outside of your control to some extent. The reason I harp on this issue is that corrosion can be an expensive nemesis for any high mileage vehicle.

    Complete the routine maintenance and that car should give no problems till 175k or so- though after that you will probably be looking at all the interval related expenses. This can vary depending on sequences. For example: the timing belt/waterpump is recommended to be replaced at 90k so the second one would be at 180-200 depending on when you changed the first one. With this and other engine related issues taken care of the car should continue to run fine.

    But I cannot reiterate enough- if you live in area with unconscionable roads and winter like Chicago in 5 years or so you will want to take a look at whats going on with corrosion type issues effecting the tie-rods and such (I had to replace 1 at 193k).
  • Well I am in desperate need for a car, used. I drive to the city a lot, which is about thirty minutes away. This 2007 honda civic (rebuilt title) has 95k, how long do they last, i love hondas, but i need a realistic mileage. Ive heard good and bad!
  • The fact that it has a rebuilt title means that no one can give you any realistic expectations. It all depends on how well it was rebuilt. I would never buy a rebuilt vehicle without having it thoroughly inspected by an independent mechanic.

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • truth91truth91 Posts: 1
    there is a product called "restore" they have 4-8 cyl canisters, this is an oil additive which you add at an oil change, it re-seals the piston walls, if the oil still burns it's a different and possibly bigger problem.
  • nike818nike818 Posts: 1
    hey i am currently a high school student i want to buy a honda civic ex coupe year 2000 and it has over 175,000 miles and they want 2,995. If anyone can help me decide to either get this car or walk away would help me and my wallet.
  • I have a 2001 Civic EX with 338,000 miles on it, mostly highway/interstate driven 110 miles each work-day. I just replaced the OEM alternator casue it was making a rattling noise..it seemed to be functioning perfectly. I just put in my third set of platinum spark plugs. Aside from routine maintenance like air filters, oil change, brake pads, and a timing belt change at 185K miles, nothing else has been done to the car...nothing. It gets 40 mpg on the highway, and I expect to get another 100-150K out of it.
  • You need to have it checked out bey a good mechanic/shop. You can't understand yourself if there are any unseen problems. Ask for maintenance records, such as timing belt change, brake work, transmission work, etc, or if they have a mechanic/shop that has been doing the work and inquire by VIN for records. I'd offer $2500 on condition that everything checks out OK: electrical, mechanical, A/C, heater, etc. You pay for the checkout. Timing belt replacement will run $500+ if needed, so you don't want to need that right away.
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