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Chrysler 300M Engine Problems

hello i have a 2001 300m and i have a few problems with it ok first for the last couple of months when ever i am driving when ever i press on the gas there is this loud rattling noise that sounds like its coming from under the hood i have been to a garage with it and they seem to think it's my converter you can put the car in reverse and hold on the brake and give it some gas and you can here the noise clear it sound's like it comeing from the passanger side right next to the motor has this happened to anyone else or does anyone know what this might be? p.s when i here the noise it fells like my car is loseing power while the rattling is going on..

and my next problem just started my car ran out of gas and my engine light came on i went to auto zone and they ran a test and it said there was a misfire on four of my sparkplugs so i changed all 6 spark plugs and the little ruber boots that sit on top of my spark plugs my engine light has gone off but now when i go to accelerate the car fells like it wants to kind of be slugish and it jerks back for a second like its not getting gas to the fuel tank do you think it needs to be replaced or has anyone had this problem

Comments

  • I have a 2003 300m with 72000 miles. When I start up the car I hear a herendous rattling noise and there after a hard knocking noise/ticking noise. It gets louder as I press on the gas pedal. One mechanic told me it was my camshaft or my extension rod and that I needed to replace my engine. Is this a common problem? The knocking noise appears to be coming from top of the engine not below. Can any one help me with this one?
  • beckysbeckys Posts: 1
    we have a 99 300m and think we are hearing the same noise...2 mechanices outside of the chrysler dealership said it sounded likes rods...we have been hearing this sound for 12 months! today we went to get the car from the transmission shop and they said it sounds like it is in the front of the engine and heard it before on a 300 and it ended up being the timing belt/brackets...I don't know alot about that area but when he lets me know I will respond back again...I am afraid it is costly...the whole front end has to come off!
  • Thanks for the info. I took it again to another mechanic and he also stated that it might be rods or the crank shaft. The timing belt/brackets suggestion is a new one for me. Yes, it is very costly. I recently took out an extended warranty on this vehicle so my deductible is only $100.00... I will keep you informed.
  • Similar problem in a Caddy my wife drove. Turned out to be a belt pulley with bad bearings. I can't recall if it was the belt tensioner wheel or another pulley. Luckily, it was easily accessible and not very costly to replace.

    Good luck.
  • My 2002, 300M engine starts jerking between 2 and 3 RPMs. What could be the problem?
  • My car is slugish or it jerks whatever you want to call it. When you take off and the needle gets up between the 2 & 3 RPMs it starts jerking back and forth. Or do you call it slugish. I have taken it to a Dealership and had a diagnostic test. They arent sure what it is. It could be 3 different things. Timing Belt, Fuel Pump, or possibly drive plate. So much for a diagnostic test. What a waste. I would really like to know. I love this car. It only has 73,000 miles on it. Now the check engine light is on of course until we fix the problem. If anyone out there knows what it is or they have had some experience with the same thing please let me know. Thanks
  • just had the 3.5 engine in my 2003 300m rebuilt at the dealer overlap bearing on the camshaft i now get 14 m per gal and the motor vibrates when ideling in gear at a stop a lot of weird sounds under the hood that i work at the plant that built this garbage so much for buy what you build by the way this car only has 81000 kilometers on it
  • My car will all of a sudden stall. it usually happens when i am just about stopped. i can put in neutral and start it back up but it is getting annoying. also when i am driving at highway speeds it will some times feel like it chugs. i have done a fuel system cleaner and that didnt see to help at all. is there any explanation for these things?
  • My rack and pinion just went out in my car i was wondering if it is a difficult fix or if it is something that i could do my self.
  • bswatsonbswatson Posts: 2
    try using your key code to see if there is a fault code.put your key in the ignition turn on to run but dont start.do three times on,off,on,off,on.you should see a code where your trip meter is.i have a 2002 300m and it did same thing.i got a p0206 fault,which is an injector 6 circuit fault.runs like a 300m now.
  • ihelgetihelget Posts: 4
    i was wondering if you would be able to tell me what the code P1684 means because my car has been stalling on me and i was wondering if that code has anything to do with it.
  • bswatsonbswatson Posts: 2
    p1684 means the battery has been disconected in the last 50 days
  • ihelgetihelget Posts: 4
    thanks. but the thing is that i havent disconnected my battery for at least 3 months could there e a bad connection or something that is giving me this code. i was wondering would this have someting to do with my car staling on me when i a driving down the road??????
  • joeymoosjoeymoos Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 300M and never had any problems with it until recently. A few weeks ago it wouldn't start and the battery was draining. The mechanic checked alternator and battery and that wasn't the problem. He pulled fuses #7 and 19 and there was no drain and the car would start for a few days. He replaced the interior light switch and ignition switch as others suggested. The car would be okay for about 4 or 5 days and then againwon't start. Sometimes also the interior lights go off after 2-3 seconds while other times there are on the for 20-30 seconds and the manual describes them to operate.

    It was working fine for a few days and then this morning my husband went to start it and it wouldn't start. He jumped it and let it run for a while. When I got in it this morning it barely started and all the cd lights were blinking for about 30 seconds. Also I haven't had a radio in about a year. I've read I got the bad radio for that year since it says RBB under the hour and minutes. Do you think the radio could have a short in it that's causing the battery drain?

    Has anyone ever had a problem like this and know what it is? Our mechanic talked to a friend of his at a Chrysler dealer and even he has no idea what the problem is and suggested we bring it to a dealer.

    The car is mint and only has 40,000 miles on it. I'd hate to get rid of it but I also don't want to keep putting money into it.

    I'd appreciate any help of suggestions. Thanks!

    Carolyn
  • jw300mjw300m Posts: 8
    Could possibly be the battery...I had similar problems and it ended up being a "dirty" positive connection to the battery...since it was original, I just replaced it and poof...no more wierd light shows and starting issues.
  • I have just replaced the cam in my 1999 300M after it ran hot. The cam was in two pieces and the car ran fine with a miss on one cylinder. The new cam from chrysler was just under $1000.00 so I am told. I got a used head for the cam and now then used the new found head and cam. Now the lifters are very loud, I have been driving it for two days now with no better results. Will driving the noise go away.
  • I need serious help.. i dont know what is wrong with my car. ok well i drove my car to my college the first time i drove it on a fourteen hour trip and when i got here it started to act weird. i was driving around town then when i went to park my car it would not go into park it wouldnt go past reverse. then finally i got in park then i drove it around again thinking it was fine when i went to park back at school it would not go it park no matter how hard i tried. then my shifter got really loose and the shifter would move to drive nuetral park reverse, but the car still remained in reverse so i had to shut it of because something was broke so now my car is stuck in reverse and i dont know if anyone possibly knows what im talking about or the problem with my car
  • today i installed a rebuilt alternator .when i put on the belt i could not tighten up on the belt. how do you tighten up the slack that is in the belt
  • I have a 2000 300m , 180,000 miles, while my wife was driving it cut off. Now it will not start. I was told the timing belt broke, and that I needed another engine..because the valves were probably bent.. Is it better to change the belt and heads or change the entire engine... Which would be cheaper!!!
  • i 'm having the same problem with my chyrsler 300m 1999, but it starts jerking when i'm driving with speeds 60-80mph..i let off the gas while slowing down and it stops (jerking)..what could be the problem?
  • :( My chrysler 300m 1999 starts jerking when the car is at speeds of 60-80mph. The check engine light flashes, of course the car is jerking/knocking. I let of the gas so the jerking can stop. it does but i want to get to the bottom of the problem and fix it. What could be the problem?
  • bnardbnard Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my '99m.....one or more of your coil packs are bad
  • Cheaper: Used heads from good junk yard. Have machine shop check for cracks, and check valves. Buy head gasket set, and Chiltons. may need to rent cam shaft tool
    Cheapest: Used low mileage, engine from good junk yard.
  • try replacing the park shift interlock switch. it shouldnt be no more that 15 or 20$ from auto zone.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Ok, now that i got the starting stalling issue fixed, my other issue is my engine recently started making a tapping sound. It starts after its been driven when the engine is warm. I hear it when I come to a stop sign and a stop light but it goes away when I pull off. It even goes away when the car is put in park. But I also noticed it becomes a little more pronounced if I have the car in park and or when I slightly turn the steering wheel to the left or right. It sounds like its coming from the left driver side but its hard to tell since im always driving.

    Any body have this same problem and what did you do to get it fixed? Any help would be appreciated.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    I like so many other 300m owners had that same problem recently, have your mechanic check the cam and crank sensor. I had mine replaced and now it starts and runs fine.
  • smm2004smm2004 Posts: 1
    How much did the cam cost you? I have had my 300 for less than a year and the cam is out on mine. I am so disappointed and still owe alot of money on it.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    I didnt have the cam replaced, it was the cam sensor and the crank sensor. My mechanic charged me $150.00 total.
  • WELL MY QUESTION TO YOU IS DO YOU ALWAYS BELIEVE WHAT SOMEONE TELLS YOU???? THERE IS A WAY TO TELL IF YOUR GONNA NEED A NEW ENGINE, THE PROBLEM IS IS THAT IT WILL COST YOU SOME FUNDS TO RE-TEST AND SEE IF INDEED THE VALVES ARE BENT, #1 A NEW BELT NEEDS TO BE PUT ON, #2 THEN A GOOD COMPLETE COMPRESSION TEST NEEDS TO BE DONE AND IT WILL DEFINATELY TELL YOU EITHER WAY, I JUST HAD ONE DONE BY A SHADE TREEE MECHANIC HE WAS LUCKY, IT DIDNT BEND ANYTHING, IF YOURS HAPPENS TO BE A FLUKE THEN THE COST OF PULLING THE HEAD AND LOOKING AT THE DAMAGE CAN BE QUITE EXPENSIVE IF YOU ARE NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED, BUT IF YOU HAPPEN TO KNOW SOMEONE WHO HAS GOOD COMMON SENSE AND LIKES A GOOD CHALLENGE THEN DONT BE AFRAID TO TAKE THE CHANCE, I MEAN 250.00 VS 1000 AND UP IS A PRETTY STEEP, AND THE LOWER MILAGE YOU FIND, BE PREPARED TO GET BENT OVER, THEN YOU HAVE THE LABOR TO R/R AND YOUR PROBABLE LOOKING SOMEWHERE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF 2200-2700.00 THEN ASK YOU SELF "IS IT WORTH IT"
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