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Chevrolet Uplander Steering & Suspension Issues

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Comments

  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    I suggest you get the vehicle thoroughly checked out by a good mechanic to see what other work needs to be done. The big selling feature for buying an Uplander is that they're cheap to buy. You'll be hard pressed to get comparative value with another used minivan for the price of the used Uplander. Good luck.
  • I have read all of the post for the Chevrolet Uplander and would like to know if anyone has gotten an answer on exactly what the front end noise is all about. The last post here was on April 28, 2012. The problems are all the same as mine, however, there are no post with resolutions. I can live with the fact that the side molding is discolored and coming off again, the rear wiper recently stopped working, the rubber weather piece on the bottom of the sliding doors has come off, the accessory plug on the dash has a broken wire and doesn't always work, the right front turn signal burns out every bulb put in, the interior lights flicker, the key fobs(had 3 or 4) do not work, the air went out around 40,000 mi, coolant lines were leaking and had to be replace, chair rails to front seats are rusting, as well as the hinges, the bolt to the windshield wipers kept falling out and the clips to the windshield wipers had to be replaced. My vehicle is paid off, has 61,000 mi (24,000 when bought in May 2006), seats 7, great for road trips and entertainment for my grandkids. I just want it to work! I've had it to two different places and it's brakes and rotors for the forth time and another set of tires. I don't want to keep replacing things that shouldn't wear out as quickly as they do, with reasonable usage. I shouldn't have to look for aftermarket parts to fix engineering defects! I've already sent the 8 digits of my two GM vehicles to socialmedia@gm as requested
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    chair rails to front seats are rusting

    Since you purchased your vehicle used and you're having many electrical problems, you may have a flood vehicle. Have you checked the vehicle's background?
  • Update: I replaced the rear brake pads two weeks ago and have not heard the groaning sound during turns since.
  • Sounds (pun intended) like I am having similar issues to those of you with the mysterious noise that sounds like a loud metal on metal banging when going over bumps or potholes (something that cannot be avoided on Michigan's horrid roads. I have replaced the shocks, struts, mounts, springs, tie rods, damn near everything and yet the noise is still there. My mechanic thinks it is the fuel tank bouncing around and replaced the straps, but the noise and feel (you can feel it every time it hits) are still there. Anyone else hear of this or have suggestions?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 2,309
    The sway bar bushings as well as the links at the ends can make a loud banging noise. The problem with anyone saying what a noise is or might be without hearing it in person and inspecting or testing to prove it makes it nothing more than another guess. Tools like "Chassis Ear" can assist a technician in identifying the actual source of a noise and should be used in a case like this.

    One other point, when doing any diagnostics, the tech must forget what has already been done. New or newer does not always equal trouble-free.
  • mrvangenmrvangen Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Chevy Uplander and the last few months, overtime I turn to the right, it makes a loud squealing noise. I replaced the power steering hose since there was a leak and the steering is just fine now. Except for that squealing. the smallest bump when turning or going straight it will make a smaller squeal, and then turning right it just gets louder. Does anyone have an idea of what it could be? I haven't found a mechanic I trust yet, and I'm a fast learner so most stuff i do myself. Id like to see if I can do this one too. Any help will do.
  • maddog0324maddog0324 Posts: 55
    @smedley53: I found that the heat shield for the fuel tank rattled every time I hit a bump. I wedged some foam insulation between the heat shield and undercarriage and no more annoying noise since.
  • ralomralom Posts: 1
    For the DIY
    I have a 2008 Uplander bought new. Normal wear and tear over the years and eventually developed terrible clunks and rattles specially over bumps. Did my own investigation and found a disconnected stab link! Ball came out of its socket. Apparently these things have to be greased, it had a grease fitting, lesson learned. Replaced both stabilizer links myself, no big deal, and I also bought me a grease gun. Some improvement in the noise issue but not much, observed and investigated further as well as researched any online info. I determined the front struts needed replacement. Ordered Monroe quick struts, these are complete assemblies and proceeded to replace both front left and right. Make sure you have a small sledge hammer when you do this to disconnect the old strut from the knuckle. The top three nuts holding the strut assembly are also a pain to remove due to limited access but can be done. Huge improvement in the noise over bumps issue. There was just a little clunk still. Read, researched and observed some more. On a weekend I replaced the rear shock absorbers, left and right, I just thought it was time anyway. After the struggle with the front struts this operation was too easy. Just make sure you have a breaker bar for loosening the top bolt and some liquid wrench helps . What do you know, the van rides like new. Hardly a dip when I stop at a red light and no clunks over bumps either. Hope this helps somebody.
  • snake769snake769 Posts: 1
    ralom said:
    For the DIY ..  . What do you know, the van rides like new. Hardly a dip when I stop at a red light and no clunks over bumps either. Hope this helps somebody.
    Ralom, Thanks so much for posting.   I just ordered new Monroe sensatrac rear shocks for my 2006 Uplander, since I noticed some black grease on the bottom half of the shocks... (I noticed the air hoses of the pump for the old air shocks had disintegrated,  not worth fixing based on my research and usage)
    My question, since I am new to auto repair, how tight should I torque the top and bottom bolts of the shocks?
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