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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start problems

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  • The security light is on and tahoe won't start. What can I do
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Try the other key. Each key has a security chip in it, which is programmed to work with the computer in the car.

    If that doesn't work, have the vehicle towed to the dealership with your keys, and they can reprogram the computer to accept the security chip in each key.
  • cujocececujocece Posts: 6
    I started having problems with my suburban in december.I have 190,000 on the vehicle, original everything. I replaced the starter and battery. I still had long cranks before starting. I replaced the cap and rotor started up and moved it up 10 feet and turned it off. Tried to start it and it just cranked. I replaced the wires and plugs and coil pack and checked the ignition module all ok. I have fuel at the rail. I bought a ignition pickup or crank shaft position starter and installed. The one I took out was only 1/2 there. Thought I found the issue. Replaced and started it up but then I shut it off and it would not restart. It will start maybe every 20 times that I try. Now I looked at the rotor and cap and they look like the ones that were on there for 14 years, I am wondering due to a bad crank shaft position sensor if I screwed the new rotor and cap up. Anyone out there have any ideas?
  • lthauslthaus Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Friend of mine is having problems starting her Tahoe.

    Symptoms:

    insert key and turn ignition...

    Engine turns over for about 2 seconds.

    Reset key

    Repeat.. Same 2 seconds.

    I plan to remove the starter and have it tested at an auto parts place.
    Any other words of wisdom or if you have seen this problem before?
    :confuse:

    Thank you all.
    Vito
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Security system?

    Is it possible the key microchip, isn't registered in the computer anymore? Can you try a different key to eliminate that as a possibility?
  • Just bought Suburban last week. Ran fine for the first few days then on way home came to a stop sign and fan motor kicked off followed by suburban completely dying. Turned key a few times and it started up no more problems for another couple of days. On Saturday drove just fine stopped would not start back up. Had my wife come jump me. At first it did nothing when I put key in run. The dash lights would come on but as soon as I moved key from on to start dash lights would go out. Then I noticed e break light flashing set and released e break and it started right up. Didn't run it over weekend. Went out to start on Monday and first time would get dash lights but as soon as key moved from on to start dash lights go out and starter clicks once. On subsequent attempts to start no dash lights and starter does not click. Have checked battery, starter all check good. Have replaced ignition switch still no joy. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
  • luschez28luschez28 Posts: 3
    I have read through this thread, and have not seen the exact same problem I am having.

    I bought my '01 Tahoe a little over a year ago. The first day the SES light came on, and went off again right away. But no symptoms were occuring. It did this off and on for the first year. My code reader kept saying multiple missfire, or bad 02 sensor, but still drove just fine. Then, starting this winter, it developed a rough idle, and sometimes hard to start.

    When starting, if it's been sitting for a while, it will start perfectly. If warmed up, it will just crank unless you push the pedal to the floor (like it's flooded). It will then start, but smoke eminates from the tailpipe, and you can smell the gasoline.

    The rough idle is never apparent at first, but after it sits idleing for a few minutes, it becomes rough, but never dies or stalls. After driving for a few minutes, it dissappears, but returns in a few minutes of idle.

    Now, I am getting the code P0446, so now I may have a fuel/vent/vacuum issue as well. But this just started a week ago.

    The spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter are all new within the last 3 months.

    Could all these issues be stemming from one problem? Or is multiple problems that are affecting the same system? I hate this, give me a 4bbl carb and a screw driver, and this would have been a 10 minute fix. :mad:
  • cujocececujocece Posts: 6
    I fixed the problem, it was the fuel pump again. I had changed it 2 years ago and it went again. I bought a OEM this time. Thanks for everyones help.
  • cujocececujocece Posts: 6
    It could be your fuel pump is losing pressure.Try a pressure regulator on the fuel rail.
  • luschez28luschez28 Posts: 3
    edited May 2010
    Update:

    I replaced the oxygen sensors, there were supposed to be four but ended up only having two.

    I also tightened the crap out of the fuel cap.

    Now, no codes come back. It's been going for two days without one code. Unfortunately, it still has the same symptoms, hard to start and rough idle. So I fixed something, just not what was causing the symptoms. Going to try the fuel pressure next.
  • luschez28luschez28 Posts: 3
    Another Update:

    My next step was to replace the fuel pressure regulator, about $40. It ran rough for about a minute, I guess as fuel got back in the lines. Then, I thought it died. Actually, it smoothed out and ran like brand new! So quiet I had to rev the engine to hear it. :)
  • ag7579ag7579 Posts: 1
    @spitfire

    My 96 Burb is doing the exact same thing. Like you, I changed ignition switch, starter and battery tested good. Move key to start---one click and all power goes out. Wait 5 seconds and the power comes back. Turn to start again--same result. Hoping you got yours figured out by now.
  • litlsuzzylitlsuzzy Posts: 1
    I had a check engine light for my 99 Chevy Suburban k1500 in February. I took it to Autozone and the computer said that it was the fuel pressure sensor. Now the truck won't start. More specifically, there is no noise from the fuel pump ( was loud enough to hear 10 feet away) and it won't turn over. My father in law looked at the truck and said that all the plugs and fuses looked good and everything he could see was connected. He told me that he is most likely the fuel pump and a small chance that it was the fuel relay or the security system. He's good with cars but not a mechanic. Is it possible that it's the pressure sensor? And if it is, is that easy to replace? I may have to fix it myself.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would suspect the fuel pump, as well.

    The sensor might have been telling you the fuel pressure was low, not necessarily that the sensor itself was bad.

    The error codes tend to get you to the right area, then it is hands on diagnostics that get you to the actual failing components.
  • I love my Tahoe. But I think it was rode hard and put up wet. First its a hard start in mornings and when it does start there is a whirring sound ( I am hard of hearing so cant pin point location ) but it goes through gears fine. Did notice though if I have to climb a steep hill there was a slight missing or possible very light jerking. If I put it into 3rd instead of keeping it in OD it climbs hills fine. I did a pretty good tune up on the other day as the cap and rotor was shot and still running original wires and Fuel Filter and PCV. I took Tahoe to Firestone to have entire cooling system flushed and on my 15 mile drive home ata steady speed of 55 on flat road she jerked so violently I thought something was going to break. I noticed if I accelerated it would stop. I dont know what sensors to start checking. The Check Engine light never came on. The Tahoe's odometer reads 135,000 ( wich i think it has more mileage and previous owner may have swapped out gauge cluster, I could almost swear to it ) Any advice or passed on knowledge would be so great. Thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited August 2010
    Have you checked fuel pump / fuel pressure? Highway speeds long hill is max fuel demands.
  • Hello all. Please help if you have the time.
    Just had the transmission rebuilt in my 02 Tahoe.
    While at the tranny shop, passlock reset had to be done.
    Picked up today and shut off and started numerous times without any trouble.
    Went out a little while later to run to the store and it won't crank.
    No security light blinking this time.
    All electrical works, interior lights, headlamps, radio, etc.
    Towed to repair shop, started up every time. Brought it home, parked in driveway. started it up about ten times just to be sure , no problems.
    went back out an hour later, same thing, wont start, all electrical dash components, etc work, just no crank.
    towed to the shop again, you guessed it. started right up. Took it for a ride and they tried to duplicate what I did..drive for 20 minutes, park it at the shop, start and shut off numerous times, let it sit for a while, still starts.
    It sat at the shop for the long holiday weekend, started right up this morning. Guaranteed if I go get it and bring it home, it wont start tomorrow morning, and I really would rather not have it towed every other day.
    any suggestions, or similar stories with a solution?
  • 2003 Tahoe Z71 will start most of the time. When it fails, the starter turns over and continues to grind but engine doesn't catch.

    Won't fail at the shop; mechanic guessed fuel pump.

    Have determined that it hardly ever fails to crank when the fuel tank is more than half full. If it fails, adding more fuel has helped. What is the likely cause of this failure to crank when the tank is less than half full?
  • we are getting fire from coil but not from distributar :sick:
  • :confuse: The 1st error was when I tried to start 4WD 1500 5.7L with 120K miles it just clicked once. Battery is new so I thought maybe the starter had a dead spot. As I was pulling the starter, it engaged! Crap, forgot to unhook the battery. Pulled the negative termil off then thought maybe it would work now so I put the starter back in and secured. When I went to reconnect the - battery terminal the truck tried starting all by itself.....with the key off.

    Pulled the starter and bench test fine, replaced the solenoid just for grins. Put starter back in and now I cannot connect the battery without it trying to start on its own?

    Dealer has no clue......unless of course I have it towed in so they can look at it.

    Any ideas anyone? Thanks :confuse:
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