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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start problems



  • Yes, the park/neutral switch is a possibility. My question is where is it? On some of my cars this switch is on/in the tranny and on some it's part of the steering column. Anyone have a clue where this switch is on a 2001 Suburban?
  • Before you go any further, I would make sure to load test the battery to make 100% sure that it's up to snuff. I've had several experiences where a battery with a dead cell would light the lights, run the radio, etc. but when the key was turned, nothing but silence under the hood. Most auto parts stores will do this for free. Good luck.
  • Battery is new and has been load tested. I did have a bit of good luck today. While someone else was turning the key, I was checking for juice at the starter motor. While fishing around trying to get the meter on the terminal I happened to wiggle the cable from the battery down at the starter motor. The car started. Problem is that I don't really know whether it was the cable I wiggled or the person repeatedly turning the key that caused it to start. I've started it 5 times since and it's like it's back to normal. No hint that it had any trouble starting. This is still a mystery and I'm sure I'll have to deal with it again, but for now the car is starting.
  • sounds like you just have a looses connection somewhere on the starter or somewhere else. a way to test this is to wiggle the wire and see if it starts. if it doesnt then you could most likely wiggle it again until it works
  • your going to wanna kick yourself for this, but i have the same problem, all i did was add about 3 gallons of gas into the car and it worked. my car will not start if i let the gas meter get to about 1/4 tank. not sure why. im probably too late on this reply to help you but... hey.
  • Wow, that is odd. My car just started after 3 days. No explanation why. It just started like nothing was ever wrong. Sure, in those three days I jiggled every wire I could find, replaced fuses, jumped the battery (my battery was only 3 months old), tried to diagnose the key lock cylinder switch... nothing looked bad. The car started after three days and has started every day since then. I can't explain it and I am not of a mind to pay GM $000's to replace every part in the car trying to figure it out either. Glad you got yours going. I did have a BMW once that was supposed to look for fuel pressure in the fuel injection before cranking the car... wonder whether the GM engineers copied that idea and hence the gas in your tank somehow restored fuel pressure to the FI system?
  • Pimpmatt73 said: "All I did was add about 3 gallons of gas into the car and it worked."
    Maybe when your fuel guage gets to 1/4 your tank is actually empty. Better check the accuracy of your fuel guage.
  • I have a 2001 Tahoe LT with 101000 miles in it. Over the past few months, it will not start on the first try. It'll crank just fine but thats all. All gauges respond as they should. It almost seems like its not getting fuel or spark. It always starts by the 3rd try.
    Any ideas?

  • I bought my Tahoe back in December '06. I love the idea of remote start. My remote periodically will start the vehicle and the vehicle dies. You cannot restart it from the remote. You can start it with the key at the point. I have taken it to the dealer once and they reprogrammed it. They said it is getting an engine code causing it to die immediately.
  • richarr3richarr3 Posts: 3
    I have an occasional (every 4 or 5 months or so) a recurring issue with my Tahoe. It will turn over, rev up like its starting and then immediately die. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once at 70k another at 190k. Fuel filter replaced too numerous to count. The longest period of time between starting problems (about 15 months), the dealer replaced the negative battery cable. In the past it may run after about 10 minutes, or it may be later in the day, or not at all. This week I did a little off roading, (not mud riding), it ran fine. Got out, hiked for about 3 hours and came back, it would not start. Just crank, rev, die. Rolled the tahoe forward about 20 yards and it ran just fine. No problems since, but of course I'm scared to get to far from civilization. Any suggestions? Can it possibly be the negative battery cable? Thanks in advance.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312

    As your problem is very intermittent it kind of says you have a loose wire connection somewhere. And it most certainly is not the negative battery cable. If it was, your engine simply would not crank when you try to start.

    I have a '04 Tahoe LT and have had a couple bad connection issues.

    The first one was wire harness to MAP sensor. When engine was in idle it shut off when I touched the wire harness. And this did not even leave a code in the computer.

    I'm not sure if loose MAP sensor wire would prevent engine from starting but it could. Map sensor is located on top of the engine by the fire wall under the plastic engine cover.

    Another problem I had with MAF wire harness. Soldering those wires to connectors improved my engine performance a bit. This should not prevent the engine from starting though.

    You could have a bad connection on the crank shaft position sensor or the sensor itself is bad. This sensor is located behind the starter motor, which must be removed to gain access to the sensor. This is not very bad job if you are a hands on person. It does require a torque wrench though for tightening the starter motor bolts to correct tightness.

    Crank shaft position sensor cost about $70 I think. I replaced mine and it was $65 + tax. Replacing it would rule that out as a problem and this sensor will prevent the engine from starting if it goes bad or signal does not get to the computer for a bad connection.

    Another sensor that would not let engine start is cam shaft position sensor. It works the same way as crank shaft sensor and is located in a more difficult place on top of the engine by the fire wall. It is lower on back side on engine that the MAP sensor and is quite hard to reach. I would think that a good mechanic would be able to change this without removing the intake manifold from the engine.

  • michael_hmichael_h Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Tahoe that is occasionally having trouble starting. At times it cranks, tries to start, and dies, so I knwo it is getting fuel and ignition. It is not the starter or battery. Appears to happen only in mornings or in humid environments. Sometimes after several attempts it will start, but most of the time it will either start first time, or will not start at all after multiple attempts. I have seen similar posts on this issue, but have not seen a resolution. Has anyone solved this problem??
  • mworkmanmworkman Posts: 3
    My truck will not start after a rain shower or during high cranks and turns over but will not start..any suggestions? I've changed the distributor/rotar (looked fine) after checking it for cracks..none found.
  • mtnman7mtnman7 Posts: 2
    Truck is hard to start when cold start in the a.m.

    Must turn ignition on and off several times before engine will fire. Have to give it gas to start. Almost sounds like it’s “gargling” when it does. The problem goes away once warm. Seems more of an issue with a full tank of gas.

    Fuel pump replaced last summer.
    Not starting as fast as before.
    Truck stalled twice this summer when coming to a hard stop with the A/C on.
    Service Engine light came on 2 weeks ago. P0452 Fuel Tank Pressure Signal circuit Input below minimum.
    The difficulty starting has become more serious over the last 2 weeks.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Tahoe Starting Problems may be helpful.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Thank you. I did previously read whatever I could find for Tahoe's with similar problems. It seems to boil down to the fuel pressure regulator or perhaps a security bug. I'm getting spark, so I'm pretty certain that it's not electronic or security in nature, since security systems always cancel the spark or prevent power going to the starter. I'm thinking more about the FPR. I could smell fuel in the exhaust pipe and saw the threads on the plugs were a little wet, but that could mean fuel is maybe just dribbling into the chamber. A spark will ignite fuel vapor but not just liquid fuel. Could the FPR possibly be letting in low-pressure fuel that the injectors are not vaporzing?

    I read that the FPR is on the drivers side, but didn't see a pic. I presume like most liquid pressure regulators that it would be disc-shaped with a pipe connection in the center, on both sides? I read that if you take the top hose off (vacuum side) and if fuel comes out, the FPR is bad. Also, every time I turned the key to ON, the pump would prime. Wouldn't the system be primed and the FPR tell it not to prime if I had just tried cranking it over? Other cars I've had have done that. You would get a very short prime if you had just primed it, since the system was fully pressurized.
  • So I did a little more investigating. Went to the schrader valve on the fuel crossover rail to see if there was pressure. Inserted a small screwdriver to press the center nipple down and nothing. Not a spritz or even a drip. Then I primed the pump 4 times, figuring that should for sure build pressure. Tried the valve again and nothing at all.

    So since I smelled fuel during cranking, I feel that very low pressure fuel is getting into the cylinders somehow. So quite possibly my regulator went bad. Where exactly is the thing??

    My other possibility is the factory alarm is preventing fuel flow, BUT doesn't it prevent the fuel pump from running? Seems odd it still prime the system if the alarm is telling it not too. The horn doesn't honk or anything like it's alarming when trying to start the truck. The security light does go on while cranking the motor. That normal? Is they some definitive way to 'reset' the factory alarm or to make sure it's off so I can rule it out?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Give Got a Quick, Technical Question? a try. Maybe one of the experts over there could help you.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Thanks; I posted there too.

    So I've decided to change the regulator and see if the pump is pumping fuel by removing the filter inlet line and priming the pump. Any tips or tricks on replacing the regulator? Do I need any special tools to get it unhooked from the lines? Twist and pull??
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