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Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start problems

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Comments

  • luschez28luschez28 Posts: 3
    Another Update:

    My next step was to replace the fuel pressure regulator, about $40. It ran rough for about a minute, I guess as fuel got back in the lines. Then, I thought it died. Actually, it smoothed out and ran like brand new! So quiet I had to rev the engine to hear it. :)
  • ag7579ag7579 Posts: 1
    @spitfire

    My 96 Burb is doing the exact same thing. Like you, I changed ignition switch, starter and battery tested good. Move key to start---one click and all power goes out. Wait 5 seconds and the power comes back. Turn to start again--same result. Hoping you got yours figured out by now.
  • litlsuzzylitlsuzzy Posts: 1
    I had a check engine light for my 99 Chevy Suburban k1500 in February. I took it to Autozone and the computer said that it was the fuel pressure sensor. Now the truck won't start. More specifically, there is no noise from the fuel pump ( was loud enough to hear 10 feet away) and it won't turn over. My father in law looked at the truck and said that all the plugs and fuses looked good and everything he could see was connected. He told me that he is most likely the fuel pump and a small chance that it was the fuel relay or the security system. He's good with cars but not a mechanic. Is it possible that it's the pressure sensor? And if it is, is that easy to replace? I may have to fix it myself.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would suspect the fuel pump, as well.

    The sensor might have been telling you the fuel pressure was low, not necessarily that the sensor itself was bad.

    The error codes tend to get you to the right area, then it is hands on diagnostics that get you to the actual failing components.
  • I love my Tahoe. But I think it was rode hard and put up wet. First its a hard start in mornings and when it does start there is a whirring sound ( I am hard of hearing so cant pin point location ) but it goes through gears fine. Did notice though if I have to climb a steep hill there was a slight missing or possible very light jerking. If I put it into 3rd instead of keeping it in OD it climbs hills fine. I did a pretty good tune up on the other day as the cap and rotor was shot and still running original wires and Fuel Filter and PCV. I took Tahoe to Firestone to have entire cooling system flushed and on my 15 mile drive home ata steady speed of 55 on flat road she jerked so violently I thought something was going to break. I noticed if I accelerated it would stop. I dont know what sensors to start checking. The Check Engine light never came on. The Tahoe's odometer reads 135,000 ( wich i think it has more mileage and previous owner may have swapped out gauge cluster, I could almost swear to it ) Any advice or passed on knowledge would be so great. Thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited August 2010
    Have you checked fuel pump / fuel pressure? Highway speeds long hill is max fuel demands.
  • Hello all. Please help if you have the time.
    Just had the transmission rebuilt in my 02 Tahoe.
    While at the tranny shop, passlock reset had to be done.
    Picked up today and shut off and started numerous times without any trouble.
    Went out a little while later to run to the store and it won't crank.
    No security light blinking this time.
    All electrical works, interior lights, headlamps, radio, etc.
    Towed to repair shop, started up every time. Brought it home, parked in driveway. started it up about ten times just to be sure , no problems.
    went back out an hour later, same thing, wont start, all electrical dash components, etc work, just no crank.
    towed to the shop again, you guessed it. started right up. Took it for a ride and they tried to duplicate what I did..drive for 20 minutes, park it at the shop, start and shut off numerous times, let it sit for a while, still starts.
    It sat at the shop for the long holiday weekend, started right up this morning. Guaranteed if I go get it and bring it home, it wont start tomorrow morning, and I really would rather not have it towed every other day.
    any suggestions, or similar stories with a solution?
  • 2003 Tahoe Z71 will start most of the time. When it fails, the starter turns over and continues to grind but engine doesn't catch.

    Won't fail at the shop; mechanic guessed fuel pump.

    Have determined that it hardly ever fails to crank when the fuel tank is more than half full. If it fails, adding more fuel has helped. What is the likely cause of this failure to crank when the tank is less than half full?
  • we are getting fire from coil but not from distributar :sick:
  • :confuse: The 1st error was when I tried to start 4WD 1500 5.7L with 120K miles it just clicked once. Battery is new so I thought maybe the starter had a dead spot. As I was pulling the starter, it engaged! Crap, forgot to unhook the battery. Pulled the negative termil off then thought maybe it would work now so I put the starter back in and secured. When I went to reconnect the - battery terminal the truck tried starting all by itself.....with the key off.

    Pulled the starter and bench test fine, replaced the solenoid just for grins. Put starter back in and now I cannot connect the battery without it trying to start on its own?

    Dealer has no clue......unless of course I have it towed in so they can look at it.

    Any ideas anyone? Thanks :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Disconnect the wire going to the solenoid, so that the solenoid is not powered/engaged. Verify that the starter is NOT turning. If it is starting, then your solenoid is bad and permanently engaged..

    Assuming not starting, put a voltmeter on the start wire normally connected to the solenoid. If it's 12+ volts, then something upstream is trying to give power to the solenoid and engage the starter.
  • My wife's tahoe started having intermittant starting problems about a week ago. Most of the time it will start and run just fine, but occasionally it takes three or four tries before it starts and idles. It always fires, but will die when it tries to idle. Yesterday I was driving it, it ran just fine until I pulled over to stop and then it died at idle. After three times trying to start, I found that it would catch if you kept your foot partially on the accelerator. While driving home, it would die at idle unless you watched the tach and kept it held above idle speed with accelerator. It appears to be an intermittant idling problem, and the repair shop said " gotta be a leaking intake manifold gasket, pay us 500 bucks and we'll see if that is it". Any ideas?
  • I would go another route. i would change the fuel filter first to make sure it is getting the fuel on its own without any help pressing on the gas. I would lean more to a failing fuel pump than air. I think starting at 16.00 for a filter first is the way to go especially if it has not been changed in a year or more. Good lucl
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are there any fault error codes in the computer?
  • scooter89scooter89 Posts: 6
    edited October 2010
    How do I check for computer error codes? There are no indications on my dashboard lights, does this have to be done at a dealer or a repair shop? I can work on my 75 Ford pickup, but this new electronic stuff has me baffled.
  • You should be able to take your vehicle to a auto zone or advanced auto and they will check it for free. Call them first before you go. Once you have the codes, you can usually look them up on the internet. The most common is one that will code when you need a new gas cap. Once codes are cleared they will reappear in 50 miles or 3 starts if it is a continuous problem.
  • scooter89scooter89 Posts: 6
    edited October 2010
    haven't had time to get my tahoe to get the computer codes checked, but it has now sat for almost a week. I started it today and drove it around in my driveway, and it idled a bit rough. Revved it up to 2000, held it for 20 seconds, and then it wouldn't idle, just die unless you held the accelerator pedal down just enough to keep it at idle speed. After 30 seconds of having to keep it idling, it started to work fine. Revved it up and tried it again, now it idles just fine, and has been idling all through the time I came inside, logged in, wrote this message, went out and checked again, wiggled every hose, wire, etc. I could wiggle, revved it up once more, it still works fine. Just went out and checked it again, it's still idling fine, completely warmed up, drove it around the driveway, (big driveway) came in and sent this message. Doesn't sound to me like an intake manifold gasket, but there is something going on. Anyone else had this kind of problem? Still gonna get the codes checked, change the fuel filter, etc. Edit: new clue, now 10 minutes later, drove it down the driveway, the ABS light and Brake light would flash on the dash while driving in my driveway, and it didn't want to idle. First time I've seen that. After 15 secs, all is well again, wiggled the vacuum hose to the brake assist, still no problems, now all is fine again.
  • alanrsalanrs Posts: 25
    Ref: 2001 Suburban K1500 110K miles
    When I try to start, it behaves exactly as though it were in gear instead of Neutral or Park. There is some clicking under the dash, but nothing at all from the engine compartment. I have checked the fuses, etc, and the battery is good. A jump start/boost has no effect.

    This afternoon I tried to pull the starter so I could check power at the solenoid. I consider myself a decent mechanic, but darned if I could even get it out from its location. The dipstick tube blocks the forward motion so that the gear snout will not come out of the bell housing. What a pain!

    So I have decided to start from scratch, and think of other possibilites, such as the Neutral Switch. If that fails, would it prevent a start at all? Where is it located, and how could I check its function?

    Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, including a technique to get the darn starter off!

    Thanks, Alan
  • I have an 04 tahoe that appears to have the same problem as a lot of the other posts where everything is running fine then all of a sudden it won't start.. and it's not battery or starter related.

    The difference for me was i was driving, made a left turn, and the truck started sputtering (not responding to the throttle). As i pulled into a parking lot the low fuel light came on. Although i knew i had gas, i put more in it but still can't get it to start. It sounds like it has enough to fire once but goes right back to the starter spinning. Several posts have mentioned the MAP sensor, FPR, fuel filter, and/or fuel pump. Given my symptoms where should i start???
  • It runs! It's been 3 weeks now and now my Tahoe is running fine. After my last message, (#249), and letting the car sit for 1/2 hour to cool off, it started the same thing again, but this time it wouldn't try to fire at all when trying to start the engine, even if you held the accelerator slightly depressed. After trying 5 or 6 times, the entire dash and car went dead. Just like the battery cable was disconnected. Hmmm. Tried to start it again, just a slight blink of power and then dead again. Went out, removed the battery cables, they looked fine, no corrosion, but cleaned them with a wire brush anyway. Got back in, the car started, idled just fine, and now it has given me no trouble for 3 weeks. In my experience, usually a bad connection at the battery would give you some kind of sign, but nothing indicated that, but buffing up the battery terminals seems to have fixed my intermittant idling problems. Go figure.
  • alanrsalanrs Posts: 25
    edited November 2010
    More likely it was the disconnect of the battery itself that did the job in your case. Like re-booting your computer at home, the computer in modern cars can be re-booted by a total disconnect from battery power. Other than stored fault codes, the system will usually be "blank" if the electrical interruption lasts at least five minutes. From there, the onboard computer polls all of the sensors, and learns what is "normal" for them. Over a number of start/run cycles, the system parameters are then set as "usual" or "standard".
    I'd be thinking that for your case, there was some bad data stored in the active memory, and killing the power for a bit got rid of it and set your Tahoe's PCM back to original programming.
  • dukeboodukeboo Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    We recently replaced the fuse panel under the hood (mice built nest underneath and fried the daytime running light fuse and relay)
    brand new fuse (junction box) put on today and we get all indicators lighting up on the dash, headlights work, but driver side seems dimmer the the passenger.

    we noticed that there is no little line under the PRND like before that let you know what gear you are in. we can move the shifter and we can select auto 2x 4x 4l no problem and it moves to the selected choice.

    when we turn the key we get only a faint click from around the battery area, and nothing for a turn over. all the dash lights go dark but come right back on when we let the key return.

    we have a dual battery F250 hooked to it for boosting, so i don't think power is an issue as far as supply goes.

    any ideas, does this missing indicator line under the PRND have something to do with it not turning over.

    thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Since you had the fuse box wiring tore apart, I don't believe anyone remotely can diagnose your problem based on the symptoms and how the 'normal' wiring would be.

    I guess what I'd suggest is this:
    - if you paid someone to fix this, take it back and have them finish the job correctly.
    - if you repaired this yourself, then take the electrical schematics and a meter and start troubleshooting the circuits. You either don't have something hooked up correctly, or something else was blown that should have been replaced, and wasn't.
    - I don't know whether there are multiple (different) fuse panels and whether they gave you the correct part, but having an incorrect part might also be a possibility.

    I'd start by measuring the voltage on all the main buses and fused circuits, to make sure everything is indeed powered. Assuming everything okay, then I'd move to the start circuit. You getting a click and no starter turn, sounds like you don't have full voltage to the starter.
  • neddanedda Posts: 2
    Can someone tell me where the fuel pressure regulator in a 2001 Chevy Tahoe is located?
  • alanrsalanrs Posts: 25
    OK! So indeed the procedure for removing the starter includes taking out the dipstick tube (AKA Oil Level Indicator Tube). Required unbolting the starter and making sure all wiring was out ofthe way, then getting a Mapp gas torch to really heat up the boss in the block, while a helper pulled/wiggled/twisted the tube from above. Not easy! That allowed the starter enough room to be moved forward then rotated down. YAY! The original issue with starting was caused by a bad main wire between the solenoid and the starter windings.
    Back in business now, the Sub starts easily. :)
    A couple of notes for anyone doing this job: Get a new dipstick tube in advance, the old one will be damaged. The new one will fit too tight, I had to reduce the portion which fits into the block by 0.004 after the paint was removed (belt sander). Then, I had to make a tool out of a 20" long piece of galvanized pipe to get the tube to seat into the block. Makes no sense to be that tight, there is an o-ring for sealing it. The current part which is a replacement heat shield for the solenoid is INCORRECT! If you can recover the old one, use it. I removed/sealed some rust and repainted the sheild for my truck..
  • Like many other, I also experience the problem with my 2007 Tahoe not starting at times. Since I have owned the truck I had to take it back to the dealer "Towed In" twice because the truck would not start. The first time I experienced this was 2009 and the dealer informed me the battery was the issue. ... Yeah they could not find any electrical problems and replaced the battery. Early January 2011 the truck had the same issue where it wouldn’t not start for two day. ( 94K ) and had to be towed in. The dealer informed me that the truck sat overnight and started up the next day. They also informed me that the battery needs to be replaced. Informed them they just replaced it not even 18 months ago. Picked the truck up after a week and on the way home the message center indicated low oil pressure shut off engine. This happed three times on the way back to the dealer. The third time I continued to drive the truck until the message went out. Has not come on since. The other issue is with the radio preset buttons not staying set. Truck was in the dealer when the truck was still under warranty and could not reproduce the problem. There is some electrical malfunction with this Tahoe. The other problem I encountered 2-3 years ago the message indicated displayed Engine To Hot Shutting Of AC. How can this be when it was 10 degrees out in January of that year? Still dealer could not find anything wrong. Are other experiencing this type of electrical issues?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,166
    joealb64,
    Can you please email me with your VIN and your user name here. I would like to look into this for you.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • My 99 suburban was running terrible and would not start. I replaced the dist cap, rotor, plugs, and wires and it runs like it should again. The problem I noticed is that when I first start it up (cold or hot) the engine races for about 30 seconds then settles down. Might I have knocked something loose, or is something broken that I need to replace?

    Thanks.
  • My 2007 suburban has started to either not start or slowly start. Checked for codes, none. got stabila track service and traction control service. Disconnected bat and replaced battery and no longer service message but still trouble starting. Dealership says nothing wrong. I've never had this much trouble out of a suburban.
  • I am having problems with my 2005 Tahoe that only has 43,000 mile on it.
    It will not start and its not the battery. When you turn it over all it will do is click and the all the light will come on. Can anyone help me with this.

    Thanks
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