Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Suburban and Tahoe No Start problems

16791112

Comments

  • I'm having the exact same issues with my 2007 suburban (80k). Noticed it was turning over slowly, so I replaced the battery (with more CCA than original) - condition didnt improve. Left my wife stranded today for wouldnt start at all...only clicked. Tried a few hours later and it started fine. Unbelievable that a 3yr old truck would be this unreliable.
  • I have a 2007 suburban with EXACTLY the same symptoms...new battery fully charged, but just a faint click and starter doesnt turn over or turns over VERY slowly. Frustrating that a $50,000 vehicle cant even make it 80,000 miles?! Adding insult to injury is the rumor that you have to "heat" and remove the oil dipstick tube to perform (what should be) a relatively simple starter replacement if that proves to be the problem. Has anyone found a solution to this (apparently common) problem.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    snortweasel,
    Have you taken your vehicle into a dealer? If not I would recommend doing so. Can you please email me with your VIN and current mileage as well? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I love it, how times have changed. When I was growing up, we had to do points, plugs, and condenser tune up's every 12-15K miles, and you'd be lucky if your vehicle ever made it to 75K miles.

    Now we all (me included) expect our vehicles to last forever, with no to minimal maintenance, and any parts to cost next to nothing.
  • OMG! I had no idea that SO MANY people were going through what I have been experiencing for about a year now. I have replaced my batteries 4 times now in a year, which is absolutely ridiculous. I do not believe that my battery is causing this problem. There has to be something electrical causing this. I have googled my issues and I did find one site that seems to indicate that the GM has issued a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 07033b). In putting this number in on the GM site, it does not seem to be recognized. I am very frustrated at this point and now that I see so many others having this same issue, I am going to report this to my local news media. I don't pay almost $700/month on garbage. This last time I replaced my battery (yesterday), now all the lights and horns, etc work. However, when you turn the key to the ignition, there's no sound at all - no clicking noices - NOTHING! I will fight for a resolution - one that comes sooner rather than later. Being one who's been drastically effected by this latest economic mess, I cannot afford to even trade out of this vehicle. My only comfort at this moment is that I only have a little more than a year left to pay on this. Yeah, it's nice to look at my clean gas guzzler on 24-inch rims in the driveway, but it would be nice to actually drive her occasionally.
  • tduinctduinc Posts: 8
    WOW......I am sitting here at my home with my 2005 Chevy Surburban with 72000 miles and I can not start this vehicle, same symptoms all power no start.....checked the starter rellay....this has been on on going problem for 6 months........new battery which it did not need. This is ridiculous..been to dealer and they cannot duplicate the problem, It usually just starts after a few minutes....Happens just about once a week..................but this time it has been all day.......................Hopefully GM customer service will see this reply..................on Long Island in NY
  • My 2005 Suburban has ho power in the morning. I must remove the battery cable and reattach it and then it starts up. The battery and starter were replaced by chevy and this still happens almost every day. I could spend hundreds of $ and no one will do the work without an hourly estimate. Was yours fixed?
  • My problem is almost the same. The dealer probably knows what the problem is they just wont commit to the fix. Much the same as the speedo problem. Chevy wanted $900.00 for the cluster in my 2005 Surburban. I found a shop to replace the little motors. All 6 for $125.00 in about an hour and he came to me.
  • tduinctduinc Posts: 8
    This is ridiculous on a $55,000 vehicle............GMC has to step up.........Has anyone received a response from their customer service?????????
  • tduinctduinc Posts: 8
    What is the dealer saying the answer is???????????
  • tdarrtdarr Posts: 5
    You mentioned that you had your speedo problem fixed. What was the repair? My speedometer will stick at higher speeds when hot outside. I can reset when cooled down by bumping ign. switch on and off until needle moves to o.
  • tduinctduinc Posts: 8
    The dealer just diagnosed my problem as to the BCM........Body Control Module..........will update if this is the problem.............
  • tduinctduinc Posts: 8
    Dealer just diagnosed my problem as the Body Control Module on a fail to start.........I got stuck twice and I removed the cable from the battery and it reset...................will update
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    tduinc,
    Can you please e-mail me with your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and contact information. I would like to look into this further for you.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • Recently my 09 fully loaded LTZ Tahoe failed to start. Electrically the vehicle was completely dead, but I had used the remote key only seconds before to unlock the vehicle so I knew something was wrong. I waited a few minutes and heard incessant clicking coming from the driver side door. I eventually figured it was just a computer glitch so I disconnected the battery in order to reboot the system. Once I reattached the battery cable the vehicle started immediately and all functions were normal.

    Unfortunately, this cycle started repeating itself until it became an everyday event. I bought this vehicle before I moved to Europe so I wouldn't have any problems and am not pleased. Good luck finding a GM dealer in Europe. GM customer service hasn't even responded to my questions.

    Today I located a Corvette and Cadillac dealer that agreed to take a look at the vehicle. On the way to the dealer the vehicle started behaving erratically. This was the first occurrence of any abnormal behavior once started. Twice when I stepped on the accelerator the vehicle seemed to shift itself to neutral and the RPMs rapidly climbed, simultaneously all of the door locks opened and closed repeatedly on their own. Additionally, the tach and speedo were moving from max indication to minimum indication in no relation to actual speed or RPM. All warning and/or advisory lights illuminated and the environmental control unit shut off. I could not accelerate during this period and nearly caused an accident trying to get off the road. After approximately 45 seconds the indications returned to normal and I could regain control of the accelerator and the transmission operated normally. I limped it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. The language barrier is a big problem, but they agreed to keep it a few days to run checks.

    I see that some of you are having problems fixing similar problems in the USA, I am worried that my situation is hopeless in Europe. Please help me with any suggestions I can give to the dealer. The vehicle is under warranty but it is apparently nearly impossible to get warranty work paid for in Europe. If I can't get this fixed I may have to ship the truck back home at great cost to myself.

    Thanks
  • Please help. My Suburban won't start. It appears to have a "dead short?" somewhere.

    With a new, fully charged battery, door buzzer, horn and interior lights are working. Turn the key - starter gives one grunt and then everything goes dead - no buzzer, horn, lights, etc.

    This is a 1990 R2500 Suburban, hydraulic-assisted, 4-speed manual transmission, two wheel drive, 350 cid. I removed the alternator and starter and had them checked at the local parts store. They test good. Battery cables are not corroded. The vehicle has been operating just fine until this.

    I'm a pretty good parts replacer but not a good diagnostician.
  • alanrsalanrs Posts: 25
    One of the first places to look for issues it the ground cable connection to the engine block. It is possible that a corroded cable itself has failed, but more likely that the connection is no longer capable of passing the kind of current required to activate the starter. My experience in that area was gained after numerous failed fusible links, which would pass enough current to operate the small lights, buzzers, etc., but were certainly inadequate for starting the engine. In addition, I'd check other ground straps as well, there should be several in the engine compartment which connect various components. Hope this helps! (BTW, a local dealership had one of my vehicles in many times, and replaced many parts, including a 2 week-old starter, and several fusible links. Somehow they missed the ground issue, a failing that I considered to be elemental. I found and corrected it myself it when the alternator failed on an interstate highway, due to being insufficiently ground-connected with the battery.)
  • alanrsalanrs Posts: 25
    Those of you experiencing starting issues should check and clean the main ground cable connection with the engine block before going further. On the 4WD trucks, it is very hard to get to! As I have stated in response to other posts, it is indeed commonly the source of all sorts of electrical gremlins. My starter turned out to have a failed (corroded and frayed) main strap between it and the attached solenoid.

    As far as the procedure requiring removal of the dipstick in order to get the starter out: That is no rumor, it is fact, and pointed to as necessary in the GM service manual for my 2001 K 1500 Suburban. After ten years, there was enough corrosion that heating the boss (with a Mapp gas torch) where the tube fits into the block was quite necessary. It is a two-person job! I had to reduce the diameter of the new tube in order to get it into the block. I believe that there should have been a designed-in clearance instead of a press or interference fit, especially in light of an o-ring seal being a part of the tube assembly.
  • steveqsteveq Posts: 14
    Like everyone else in this thread, I have had the same problem for about two years now. I took my 2007 Tahoe in last October and the dealer told me they could not find a problem. What is the status of this issue? It seems that everyone is having the same problem but there is no agreement to what the problem is exactly, nor is there a single solution. I just experienced this problem again yesterday. Please help!
    -Steve
  • steveqsteveq Posts: 14
    Have you found a solution to this problem? I'm having the same problem with my 2007 Tahoe and nobody seems to agree about what the problem is or how to get it fixed. My dealer could not find a problem yet it continues to happen. Please let me know!

    -Steve
  • tduinctduinc Posts: 8
    the dealer has reprogrammed the computer fixed ground problem and installed a new starter........what bothers me is that GM sees all of these complaints and knows there is a problem, but refuse to do anything about it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    tduinc,
    I apologize and understand your frustration. If you would like to email me I would be happy to look into this for you. Please include your VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, as well as complete contact information including a good number to reach you. Thank you!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    steveq,
    I apologize for you inconvenience. Can you please email me directly and include your VIN and what you are experiencing specifically?
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,113
    steveq,
    I apologize for your frustration. Can you please email me your VIN? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • tduinctduinc Posts: 8
    As of today, new starter has been installed.......did not sound right, so another new starter has been installed and after 10 days........no problems...............................will update good luck to all.........................
  • mls1185mls1185 Posts: 4
    This post is a little old but I'm sure someone out there is looking. I was...as my '01 is starting to act up again.

    I've got a 2001 that's had a couple "not starting" issues in the past.

    One issue was the fuel pump was intermittently not providing enough pressure. I hooked up a pressure gauge and left it under the hood to finally figure this out. I could hear the pump run for 3 seconds when the key was turned on but no pressure on the gauge. The filter and regulator had both been replaced previously. Filter is about $8-15, regulator $30-50, Delphi fuel pump ~$300. You have to drop the gas tank to replace the fuel pump.

    Another more common issue is the butterfly in the front of the intake gets carbon build up. A quick remedy is to disconnect the air tube to get access. Open the butterfly with your fingers and insert the handle of a large screwdriver to hold the butterfly open. Use a solvent that is sensor safe and a rag to clean the edges of the butterfly and the throat. Use gasoline, injector cleaner or anything to soften the carbon up and wipe it out with the rag. The dealer will charge several hundred $$$ to de-carbon the intake.

    This tip came from a Saturday mechanic show and found it's common to see on many makes of vehicles. Usually you'll have surging idle speeds or rough idle before it gets bad enough that it wont start.

    It seems like what contributes to this problem is there's a vent tube that dumps crankcase fumes into the manifold right where the cold air comes in through the butterfly and it tends to carbon up and at 70,000+ miles starts to become noticeable and more frequent.

    It had also had a bad cam position sensor pigtail once. There was an engine code that kicked. I'd replaced the sensor but later found that a squirrel must have chewed the wires on the back of the motor.

    Probably the worst and most expensive reason I've read about is the ECU was intermittently not firing the injectors and had to be replaced.
  • mls1185mls1185 Posts: 4
    If you're looking at the motor from the drivers side, it's about 2" round and silver. It's located above the electrical connector for the 4 ignition coils on the drivers side of the motor. The regulator has a vacuum line coming off the top. A clip holds it in.
  • lori32lori32 Posts: 1
    my truck will not run for more than 3 days. first we thought it was the battery, then fuel pump, we replaced all this. i turn it off at work then it wont crank that evening- next morning it was fine at lunch im going down the road and it just dies like its out of gas! nobody can find nuthin wrong with it. its been towed in 3 times this week. i think its the wiring. can a wiring malfunction make a vehicle go dead and cause it not to crank. i own a 2001 chev tahoe ls/lt v8 4 door. please help
  • plev2008plev2008 Posts: 1
    About two weeks ago my tahoe started having problems with shutting off and then not starting. The fuel pump fuse was blown the first time it happened. The fuse blew a second time after a quarter mile of driving and a third time after ten miles. It shut off again four days later. No blown fuse this time - it would crank but would not start. I left it alone for about five minutes and it started immediately. It shut off again another four days later. Once again, it would crank but would not start and, once again, started immediately after about five minutes of sitting. I am getting fault codes U0121(Lost Communication with ABS Control Module) and U0140(Lost Communication with Body Control Module) when it happens. I am taking it to the dealer in a couple of days and wanted to know if anyone has run across an issue like this. The only prior issue was a dead battery because of door locks cycling continuously a couple of months ago. Any help out there?
Sign In or Register to comment.