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Subaru Legacy: Typical high-mileage repairs?

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Comments

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    If you haven't done it before, do the expensive injection cleaner process where they actually hook up a machine. I have a 1988 that wouldn't even pass. Cost me a little over $100. Difference in passing was tremendous.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    in this situation. It's good for regular maintenence, but not when the injectors are seriously clogged. On my 1988 Dodge I did the Jiffy Lube Process in February. It cleaned it up some, but not as good as the dedicated machine which was done this month.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well mine wasn't a jiffy lube per se, it was a dedicated machine @ my lube place though, and it worked wonders.

    -mike
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    That's different than the one I had in February. Jiffy put something in the oil, ran a solution through the vacuum hose and put a fuel injector cleaner in the tank. If you had an actual machine then that would be the correct procedure.

    BTW, the other procedure has worked very well on my 2 other cars.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I may go have that done on my Miata. It's a '93 and I'm not sure it's ever been done because I bought it used.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    It also passes inspection easier.
  • thanks for the advice i will try to get the injectors cleaned asap. question though, if it was the injectors would it happen only after driving for awhile at highway speeds, and then only last for a few minutes before it was fine again. that is what has me baffled.

    thanks again for any thoughts on this prob
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    When our 626 had the problem, it showed up as a hesitation from low speeds. But it just felt like it gained 20 horsepower after the cleaning.

    It can't hurt. Even if it's not the only problem, you'll probably gain a bit of pep.

    Funny, I'm talking myself into doing it on the Miata.

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    MtnBob: On My Dodge that I just had the fuel injectors cleaned, it was very sporadic. I tried to track patterns for about three month, and it changed constantly. Slow initial acceleration is not so obvious because the change occurs over time. Like Shock Absorbers it is gradual and often not really noticed. After it's done the power difference is really noticible. Gas mileage improved on mine by about 5%.

    Suco: My Mazda mechanic recommends the big treatment at least every 50K.
  • The Check Engine Light illuminated this week in our 96 Legacy GT with 96K miles.
    I opened the hood and found the engine still there. What a relief!.
    Joking aside, does anyone know if this is a preprogramed pollution control warning that can be ignored, or do I need to have this checked out.
    Interesting enough, we are seeing the best fuel performace ever for the last several weeks.
    I'm almost afraid to have anyone tinker.
    Also
    Is there a way for me to adjust the headlight aim?
    We had some front end repairs after taking out a deer last year and the lights are aimed too high.
    I had both my body guy and the local Subie dealer look at these and they say they are in spec.
    Prior to the front end repair the lighting was exceptionally good. Now it is mediocre and we are being flashed by on-coming traffic with some regularity.
    Owners manual was of no help.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The check engine light means the powertrain control module has detected an anomaly in one of it's monitored systems/circuits and has stored a diagnostic trouble code. They're often (but not always) emission control related. 1996 and newer vehicles are OBD-II compliant and a scan tool will be required to retrieve the stored DTC. One of the more common causes, btw, is a loose or defective gas cap.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    A solid light is just a warning. A blinking light means trouble - park it.

    If yours is solid you can try an ECU reset. Make sure the engine is cool, and pull the negative battery terminal. Wait 30 minutes, then reconnect.

    Start her up and let her idle until she warms up, then drive off. That works a lot of the time because a CEL can be for a single misfire.

    If not, check all the vacuum hoses to make sure they are air tight. Tighten the gas cap several clicks, too.

    I can adjust my Forester's headlight aim from behind the unit itself, but I'm sure yours is different.

    -juice
  • evilizardevilizard Posts: 195
    It can be adjusted. There are a couple of white tubes with knobs on the headlight assembly. Just tweek it like you want it.
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    he he Tom, when you said that I couldn't help chuckling about my experience with those knobs.
    Mine went like "thunk" "grind" and "@#$%" (that's me cursing), and ripped flesh.
    But,... I got it to like I want it. :-D

    -Dave
  • evilizardevilizard Posts: 195
    Glad it worked out for you. I used a cresecent wrench.
  • Hi,

    I heard a rumor and don't know whether it is true or not. I own a Subaru Legacy. Subaru's as you probably all know are all wheel drive. My front two tires are wearing down, the back two are okay. I could rotate them, but I guess the back two are worn badly because I needed an alignment, but failed to get one. News to me...the car seemed to be driving straight.

    Anyhow, here is the rumor/question...do I need to replace all of the tires on my car, or just the ones on the same axle?

    Do the tires I used to replace my current tires need to be the same brand/model as those that I currently have, or can they be different.

    My last car was front wheel drive. I rotated my tires often and would buy tires an axle at a time. No big deal. I feel, however, as though someone mentioned that since my car was now all wheel drive, I could no longer do that.

    Please let me know what to do for those of you out there that know.

    Thanks!
  • I posted this in the general M&R section with no response.
    We have a 90 Legacy Wagon with 250 000Km's. The rear struts are starting to rub on the inside of the strut towers when we hit a bump. The
    struts have been changed (20 000Km ago).

    Any idea of where I should start to look? Suspension bushings? Strut mount?

    Also have 00 Legacy wagon- love it.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Judith: SoA recommend no more than 1/4 inch difference in circumference for all the tires.

    You could measure, but given the front are worn and the rears are uneven, I would definitely get 4 new tires. They are your only contact with the pavement.

    I would also get a full 4 wheel alignment from the same shop that balances and mounts the new tires.

    That's a lot of miles, Rob! :-)

    I don't have much experience with suspensions, but I would suspect the struts themselves. Maybe they are defective?

    -juice
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I suspect strut mounts based on a recent repair that I had on one of my cars.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    AWD, and especially if you have the older 4wd, need all tires to be with 1/4 of an inch according to the owners manual. I found a place that willingly rotates the tires every 3,000 miles. In my view well worth paying a little extra.
  • cptpltcptplt Posts: 1,075
    I can't say I've ever actually measured the size difference between the tires but I've replaced 2 at a time with no obvious problems in 3 Legacys. Though I never let them run too low on tread. If its still got a mm or 2 more than the treadwear indicators, in my book its time to change.Whats still legal isn't necessarily whats wise.
    Strut mount problems on older legacies are common from what my mechanic says, I will probably need it done somepoint on my 92, one is gone for sure but he said to wait till both went or it sounded real bad!
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,930
    I have noticed a few posts here regarding buying high milage cars, It cannot be more important than to have the car checked by a mechanic that you trust, there are also services whose sole business is checking cars for sale or purchase.

    It also makes a large difference if the miles are city or highway, city driving means more wear and tear on everything,motor, brakes, suspension, tires,even bushings,it is better to avoid a car with a lot of city miles.

    In a previous post Juice outlined a list of things to have replaced and I am in total agreement, I cannot remember if he advised timing belt replacement if it has not been replaced recently I would advise replacement of the belt and water pump,also top and bottom radiator hoses.

    Finally if there is any doubt about the age of the battery IE: more than 3 years old replace that also, and allow a cushion of at least $1000 over your final purchase price for the inevitable repairs which you are going to encounter in your first year of ownership this applies to any high milage cars not just Subaru,s.

    This advice might seem to be in the extreme but believe me I speak with the experience of having bought and owned a lot of high milage cars in my life.

    Cheers Pat.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    This from Tom and Ray of Cartalk.cars.com and National Public Radio.

    Also alocate $100/month for maintenence and repairs. Any extra is saved up for the next down payment. It has certainly relieved a lot of pressurem, and has avoided racking up the credit cards.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I've had my XT6 for just under 2 years. Bought it for $1000 off the bat with 52K miles 12 years old. Repairs to date:

    front axles and CVs @ purchase time $400
    fluids changed
    t-fluid changed again
    raidiator flush, T-stat $20
    Water Pump and T-belt $550
    air->nonair suspension conversion $600

    I've put on about 30K hard miles plus 2 seasons of auto-x. This car is un-beatable!

    -mike
  • tocatoca Posts: 147
    "It also makes a large difference if the miles are city or highway, city driving means more wear and tear on everything,motor, brakes, suspension, tires,even bushings,it is better to avoid a car with a lot of city miles."

    You ever hear a seller say "oh, by the way, these were mostly city miles"? If you did, they are far and few between. So unless the owner is from a large city (which then raises the question of why his car HAS high mileage - unless its well along in years) most owners are going to say "my car has mostly highway mileage".
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yep exactly.

    It's always "highway miles" :)

    -mike
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Look for 2 things; wear on the edge of the driver's seat back and cushion, and wear on the driver's door hinge pins. If minimal, they probably are highway miles.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,930
    Al, you beat me to it, unless the seller has spent a lot of money reconditioning the vehicle you can always tell when a vehicle has had a lot of stop and start driving, and Alcan in post 238 has outlined two of the most obvious, there are others such as badly worn rubbers on the pedals or in the other instance brand new one,s on a car with high miles.

    Ther are many other ways to determine city and highway miles and that is the reason a professional inspection is the best money you will ever spend.

    Cheers Pat.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,694
    Miles are still miles, and a car has to wear out sooner or later. So if a car has 200K on it, it's pretty worthless since its predicted life is like ZILCH. It MAY run a long time yet, but statistically, it won't. Of course, if it has been rebuilt or reconditioned this may not apply

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  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,930
    I agree that a car with 200,000 miles is worth nothing and at that point it matters not how the miles were accumulated but you are missing the point here entirely.

    The advice asked for was in regard to buying cars that had anywhere between 70,000 and 100,000 thousand miles and in that instance miles are definitly not miles.

    A well maintained car with 100,000 highway miles has as much or more life left in it while a well maintained city car with the same milage is definitly well past its use by date, city miles are hard miles and no matter how well maintained it will wear out a lot sooner than a car that has mostly highway miles.

    Cheers Pat.
This discussion has been closed.