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2007 Chevrolet Impala



  • The problem with the dead car was my new special radio key to get me in my building at work. It interfered with my security system so the Impala thought someone wasn't using the correct key to try to start it and it would kill the start system. Well at least I know that system is working like it should.

    One of my previous flats (Chevy dealer repaired this one) is leaking at the plug and I need a new tire. New dealer says since I have hardly any tread wear (In 27700 miles???) I only need one tire. I always thought you bought tires in a pair?

    To the guy making $90 an hour in engine compartments. Good for you.....but... I do think the unions are going to kill the car industry in America by over inflating wages.

    I have a bachelors degree and some of my family members have masters degrees, and my mom is a pharmacist which is a high demand job. My older brother is the only one anywhere near your $90 but he doesn't get paid anywhere near that in pay because of all the money that the government gets for all his overhead charges and disabilty and stuff. My mom gets paid ~$50 in a very high demand job. $90 seems like way too much money for an assembly line worker if you ask me. If however you have gone to many classes and have training above and beyond you high school education than thats great. To you $90 an hour is great but to the rest of us that pay for that money everytime we buy a car considering the quality of American made cars lately it is going to drive us to buy a foreign car or a foreign car made in the US Like Honda, Toyota, or Hyundai.

    I also have problems with a CEO that runs a company into the ground is fired or told to leave and he still gets his negotiated deal for $millions. It seems like there should be a clause that states if you do a sucky job you get nothing but a pink slip and a kick in the pants out the door. Yes I am bitter I know but so little of my pay is able to be used for fun anymore because so many things are overpriced now.
  • levellevel Posts: 28
    I didn't want to bias the replies, but my problem is that no matter how cold it is outside, when I use the remote start I always get cold air not warm. It does not auto adjust to blow out warm air to warm the car!
  • rysterryster Posts: 476
    It can take anywhere from 5-10 minutes for the car to start blowing warm air at idle. It will initially come out cold, and will gradually get warmer as the car runs. When I remote start in the winter, after about 4-5 minutes I will get lukewarm air from the vents, but it will not blow hot air until after I start driving and get the engine up to normal operating temperature.

    We had an ice storm last week, and I needed to do 2 remote cycles to warm the car up enough to the point where the ice started melting off the windshield and side windows.

    If you are remote starting in the winter, and not getting some warm air after 5-10 minutes idling, then there is definitely an issue that the dealer should look at. Make sure you also check your coolant level, it seems the Impalas like to "use" coolant...low coolant can effect the heater's effectiveness.
  • leahtleaht Posts: 2
    Hey all. My sister was in a terrible accident this weekend in her band new 07 Impala. The airbags
    did not deploy even though she was hit head and then side-whacked, car is totaled. Do any of you
    know of any problems previously known with Impala airbags? Any references? Thx thx thx, Minnesota.
  • levellevel Posts: 28
    Thanks. Based on feedback from you out there, when I went in for service I explained the problem and what should be "expected". True enough they did the fix, which involved coolant in a hose near the firewall. They removed air from the hose which is part of the A/C Heating system and replaced it with coolant. Everything works fine now---Heat on cold nights when I use the remote start.
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    In January, I asked if anyone else was experiencing problems on slippery roads. Our '07 LT3 simply refused to track straight when the road was even a little slick. It got to the point where my wife refused to drive the car in wet weather.

    We recently bought the car as a GM certified used car from a local dealer. We finally got the car in, and they diagnosed bad front and rear alignment and three trashed tires. They covered everything. It wasn't cheap. I don't know whether the used car department ate it, or if GM did. I anteed up for the fourth tire to make a complete new set. I wish they would have caught this during the "117 point inspection", (according to the GM website) but I sure am glad they stepped up and made it right.

    Car doesn't handle radically better than before, but it is much quieter and seems to ride smoother. We're not out of winter here yet, so we'll see how it goes when the roads turn bad again, which they most certainly will.
  • zedo6zedo6 Posts: 7
    > I had the same problem with my 2007 SS which I purchased new. Same diagnosis.
    I had to eat the whole cost of 4 tires and the alignment. I live in Cleveland and you
    have to know how to drive in snow and around chuck holes. Never had this happen
    to me before. service manager said that he never seen anything like that. BS
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    I posted not ago describing my '07 LT3's inability to track straight on slippery roads, and the problem's supposed fix.

    We got hit with the snowstorm that went through the Midwest yesterday, and had ample opportunity to test the car. I'm happy to say it now tracks as straight as can be on nasty roads. Apparently, the bad front and rear alignment and resulting trashed tires were the problem. My wife will drive the car again.
  • tschutztschutz Posts: 4
    I have a 2007 impala with a 3.9. When the motor cuts from 6 cyl to 3 cly it is very noticeable, anybody else had or heard of this , if so what was the fix.
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    I don't really notice my 07 going from 6 to 3, but I really notice it going from 3 to 6. Between the trans going in and out of overdrive, and I assume, the torque converter locking and unlocking, plus the engine turning half of itself on and off, this car has a very busy powertrain, and not always smooth. I found it disconcerting at first, but I've gotten used to it...
  • rguthrierguthrie Posts: 8
    I have had my 2007, with the 3.9 engine, for about 14 months, and have never had a problem with the engine going from 6 cyl to 3 cyl or back to 6 cyl. I drive about 75% on the highway, over 55MPH.
  • kenwrenchkenwrench Posts: 14
    My driving is about the opposite, at least 75% in the city. On the highway, I agree, the transitions are imperceptible.
  • prigglypriggly Posts: 642
    I have a 2006 Impala SS with the small-block V-8 with Displacement-on-Demand and cannot tell whatsoever when it changes from 6 cylinders to 3 or vice versa.
  • tschutztschutz Posts: 4
    Thanks, I got a hold of Chevy again and they want to take a look at it. I have figured out it is when it goes from 3 cyl back to 6
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Check out the forums, and select light duty full size trucks and SUV forum. Search for the oil leak info. There were several threads on oil leaks with the 5.3 liter V8 on 2007 new body style full size pickups. I bet yours has exactly the same problem.
  • hartwj98hartwj98 Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2007 Impala LS, and it didnt come with any keyless entry remotes. I thought this was a standard option, am I correct on that? If it is, do I need to buy a specific remote to program it, or are there 'universal' remotes that can be programmed? The dealer told me I would have to get an aftermarket one installed, but I wanted to see if there was a different option.
  • hartwj98hartwj98 Posts: 2
    Great info, thanks for the response!!
  • whtchpl88whtchpl88 Posts: 5
    Good morning...I am addressing anyone who has a current Impala SS (2006-present) and is experiencing an oil leak. The oil leak that I am experiencing is one that doesn't exist. The oil simply disappears within the engine itself as it is consuming it as a "normal" internal combustion engine should. However, there is NO engine that has yet been built (and if so, it was done incorrectly) that consumes oil at a rate of at least a quart and a half every 2000 miles or less. This is a phenomenon that I have experienced since I bought the car...and since the low oil light doesn't come on untill you are nearly in danger of seizing, the consumer is none the wiser unless you are told by a machanic.
    I have brought this to the attention of the dealer I bought it from, and they looked for a leak and there wasn't one to find. There is no telltale sign of trouble, except for the disappearing oil. On my third visit, I was handed a letter/communique of some kind explaining that there was a feature in the V8 SS that I bought, unbeknownst to me. Namely that the engine NORMALLY comsumes that much oil in a 2000 mile period, and it even listed the VIN numbers of the ones that they knew/suspected had this feature.
    In my experience with vehicles that I have owned/driven in my driving years, I have NEVER owned any car or truck that did this. I DO understand that an engine consumes oil, I have never experienced one that consumed it at this rate EVER. Perhaps I have been extremely lucky or fortunate. But I have a funny feeling that this letter I possess is a 'get out of a recall free' card for GM. If they are ahead of the curve on it, they can circumvent the recall by telling the mechanics ahead of time.
    I still am paying for this car, but I feel like I have been had. Someone please tell me I am not wrong about this, so I may do something about it.
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