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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Was this a Dodge dealer that told you this?

    There's only one reason to replace the lower control arm, and that is from damage. Being told that two need to be replaced is suspect.

    Bushings are replaced independently and I believe they are even spared by Chrysler as a separate part. Now factory ball joints are spared with the control arm. Aftermarket joint assemblies, as I've already noted, are available as piece parts. I just had new upper ball joints replaced by Chrysler under warranty and they were installed as a separate unit.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • shadow99688shadow99688 Posts: 209
    Dodge has a recall for front axles have friend with 2002 durango axle snaped at yoke at 4k miles, Dealer told them to drive this unsafe vehicle 50 miles to shop, transfer case was destroyed by time they made it to the shop along with much of the left front side, they where charged for repairs at first, dealer claimed that extreme abuse caused the problem and would not be covered under warrenty, after threat of lawsuit Dealer ate the cost of the repairs, last year they got notice of recall for the front axle
  • bpeakebpeake Posts: 2
    I also have a 2001 Dakota Quad 4X4 4.7 whereupon the electric door locks take turns working and not working (come and go, door to door, two in particular). In addition, occaisionally I am hearing the fuel empty chime and the guage reads empty when there is plenty of gas in the tank. Stopping and re-starting the engine immediately puts that back to normal. Any ideas on these problems?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Outside of ordinary wiring issues, a couple of things come to mind.

    Do you still have the factory battery? If so, batteries that are entering their end-of-life zone appear to generate strange electrical problems on Dodge trucks.

    Another possibility is an intermittent Central Timer Module (CTM).

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • datagurudataguru Posts: 95
    For the past year. the front suspension of my 2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 5-45RFE 3.92 has been squeaking occasionally and clunking/creaking only on turns. Although the occasional minor squeak is acceptable, a clunking creaky sound during turns is not acceptable and suspicious. After close monitoring for 6 more months, the Right Front Wheel Bearing was replaced under warranty at 43,000 kilometres (27,720 miles) and the clunking creaking sounds heard during turns are gone. However, the odd suspension squeak still occurs which can be remedied by lubing the suspension bushings. My 2 cents...

    dataguru
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My squeak back two years ago turned out to be the ball joints needing grease, which was performed by the dealer and did resolve the problem. Earlier Dakotas suffered from squeaks caused by the sway bar bushings. Oddly, mine have never given me that symptom. I was told that they made a running change to a different bushing material in 2003.

    Now my front-end "clunk," or I would say more appropriately a snap, turned out to be the upper right ball joint. Mrs. Dodge replaced both upper for me a week or so ago and now the front end is quiet and tight.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • bpeakebpeake Posts: 2
    Is the CTM an easy module to check/replace? Approx. cost?
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    I had a simular problem on my 2001 Quad 2 years ago. The ignition switch was
    replace by dealer. Fixed my problem.
  • clutch_itclutch_it Posts: 1
    hello 1st timer--- starter will "click" sometimes for awhile then engine will start. other times the engine will start on 1st try, for about 5 or 10 start ups then back to the click-click-clicking again to get it started. plz lol any help out there tks clutch_it
  • datagurudataguru Posts: 95
    Hey Dusty,

    Glad to hear your rig is tracking tight and quiet again. Have you notice any signs of the shock absorbers going soft causing more body roll now than when new?

    My '03 QC has a late May 2003 Build Date so the upper ball joint Recall does not apply according to the dealer. They reference an official list of VIN numbers to which the ball joint Recall applies. To alleviate the concerns of 2003 owners, DCX has extended the ball joints warranty for all 2003 owners not affected by the Recall to 10 years from Date of Purchase.

    dataguru
  • pirat5pirat5 Posts: 20
    Did anybody run into similar problem? Engine light goes on and off for quite a long time, but it seems not to harm performance. Unfortunately, I had to go through emission test and it failed because of cylinder misfire. Anybody has any suggestions. Thanks!
  • karl9000karl9000 Posts: 1
    Howdy from a first timer.
    I replaced the upper and lower ball joints this weekend with Moog parts. Boy, this thing rides GREAT now! However, while the lower control arms were out, I noticed the bushings were shot. Everywhere I've checked, no one sells replacement bushings; they aren't even cataloged anywhere. The dealer wants to replace the entire control arm ($585 for each #*$&^$#^% arm!). That's ridiculous! BTW, I didn't mention that the front end is torsion bar, not springs.

    Is there any way to replace these bushings? I can't afford $1100+ in parts!

    Thanks!

    Karl
  • dakota01dakota01 Posts: 1
    i own an '01 quad cab and installed an aftermarket alarm. 3 months later the alarm completely quit working and all interior lights are stuck on. i was given the advice that a switch was stuck inside the door and WD40 needed to be applied. is this a possibility and where is a switch or relay for the interior lights at, is it accesible without removing door panel? i have no idea and would appreciate any advice thanks
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yes. The CTM is located behind the left cowl side trim panel just below the instrument panel. This trim panel located between the body and the parking brake foot lever. I am not aware of the price. I think its about $100, but not sure.

    The problem with replacing the CTM is that this module is easily damaged by another electrical problem, such as a short to vehicle frame (ground), a bad input or output device, or intermittent electrical connections.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I can't say I've noticed any change in body lean. I have the Club Cab Sport Plus which includes a rear sway bar. I also keep my tires at the high end of the pressure range, so maybe the two together compensate.

    What I have noticed, however, is bounce at certain speeds on certain types of pavement and a lot more suspension travel during some pavement undulations. This I'm pretty sure is because the shocks have softened up.

    Do you have a suggestion for shock replacements?

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • datagurudataguru Posts: 95
    My Quad Cab has a Rear sway bar as well but, I definitely notice a difference in more body lean lately as the shocks and other suspension components are softening up. I run about 36-37 lbs in the Goodyear Eagle LS P255/65R/16 tires. I'm beginning to think perhaps, the control arm, leaf spring, and sway bar bushings all needs replacing as well. Any thoughts on this?

    With the normal wearing of OEM shocks, I notice the same conditions as you with the increase in the amount of bounce at all speeds and terrain.

    With regards to shock replacements, I'm going with the Edelbrock IAS Performers; specific PNs, #33410 (Front), #34410 (Rear) for 2WD. For bushing replacements, I'm considering components from either Energy Suspension or Moog.

    Cheers,
    dataguru
  • kimhoffkimhoff Posts: 2
    I bought as 2000 Dak Club Cab and it dose not have the Digital Info Center in the Overhead Console. I see these on ebay all the time and I am wondering what else I would need to install this? Is the wiring in the head liner to hook this to? Will the computer need changing? Any help is appreciated.

    Kent
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Data, thanks for the reply.

    Rear leaf springs on Dakotas seem to be pretty tough and long lasting. I can't remember ever hearing of one being replaced unless the Dak was ten years old and had lots of miles. I don't think A-arm bushings are going to affect lean. The factory bushings are of good OEM quality. They usually cause squeaks or something as they get older. A new bushing or stiffer replacement would probably improve handing, though.

    Sway bar bushings on older Daks produced God-awful noises at times. Mine are the newer type and so far have been trouble free. These might affect body lean to a degree, but I'm not sure how much. If anything, front springs that have taken a set or been driven in a compressed state (hauling heavy loads) would more than likely affect body lean more. That applies to thew rear springs as well.

    Have you checked the front sway bar to see if it's broken? If seen this happen...not on a Dakota...but that would make a big difference. Or, you could install a heavier sway bar.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • bmalbertbmalbert Posts: 2
    I have my beast at the dealership and they want to charge me $1000 to fix my central timer module (amongst other things), in my Haynes manual I see nothing listed for it in the index and really the only place I find any mention of it is in the chassis electrical section where plain as day it show the central timer module and everything that it is tied in to. Does anyone know where i need to start with replacing this unit. where is it, how do i get to it, am i getting my self into something i don't want to do... i am fairly experienced with working on cars so i can handle fairly intensive jobs, but i have never even heard of a central timer module until now.
  • Can someone tell me if a 1990 Dakota has a fan resistor block, as chevy's do, my friends blower does not work on high speed, just trying to figure out if it's the switch, fan, or possibly the resistor, Thanks
  • I was just wondering how many miles on a dakota engine would be considered a lot? mine has 170,000. is that an engine on its last legs? so far so good but it has a lot of miles
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My son's old '91 Dakota has 303K on it and still going. When my son turned it over to the new owner at 270K it was still not using any oil.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The Central Timer Module (CTM) on '97s and up are located behind the trim panel that's between the parking brake pedal and the body, just below the instrument panel on the drivers side.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yes, they do...and still do. I think on older Daks they were mounted to the bottom of the fan blower motor housing.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • artgirlartgirl Posts: 1
    My husband has a 2001 Dakota SLT 4.7. He wants to know if there's any way you can disable the governor in it? There doesn't seem to be any superchips computer thing available for that year and engine size. What can he do?

    Thanks :confuse:
  • wisepmwisepm Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Dakota SXT that has 27k on it (still under warrenty). I have had it in the shop 6 times for the same problem. The engine light keeps coming on and I do not have any acceleration power. The truck will get up to speed eventually, but I takes awhile. I have had O2 sensors, solenoids, ECM (twice), and various other parts replaced on it. This always seems to fix the problem for a little while. But, alas, I have the problem again. The dealer can not seen to get this problem fixed for more than a couple of months at a time. Any suggestions? I am really tired of wasting my time taking it in every couple of months. Should the dealer replace my truck?
  • Try you rear wheel speed sensor, about $40 at the dealership. My brother and I both have dakota r/t's and his had a similar problem.
  • ratt2581ratt2581 Posts: 1
    Two questions - with the P0152 - O2 Sensor: does my o2 sensor just need to be replaced or should i be looking for something else?

    On the P0442 EVAP small leak? what is this? Are the two related?

    I have a 2002 dakota and my ac/heat also went - it seems that its just the blower that went because no air flow comes out despite the fan setting, but if i leave the ac on and drive you can feel a slight ac flow coming out (particulary when driving at a faster speed). Its a real pain now since the humidty up here (PA) has been drenching - i cant drive without coming out covered in sweat.

    Any help on these would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    ryan
    :sick:
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Has the reason for the check engine lamp illuminating always been the same (same code)?

    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My first suspect for the P0442 is a bad gas cap. Very common.

    I'd be a little surprised that you have a failed O2 sensor on a '02, but anything is possible. I'd look for a bad connection in the O2 circuit first.

    Regards,
    Dusty
This discussion has been closed.