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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • Dusty,

    Thanks for your post, and the news that I can in fact access the codes. The bad news is that your procedure didn't reveal the codes. A coworker found this clever site:
    http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/95/45/

    which had a procedure that seemed to work:
    "To get the codes, put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number, then show the error codes starting with P."

    The display did not "go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number" but it did display two 3-digit numbers (one after the other):
    950
    999

    Unfortunately, neither of these codes is in the long list posted at the above link!!

    Have you any insight into '950' or '999' ?
    Do you have a better list of such codes?

    Thanks.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    On the way home from work today, my blower stopped working on my 02 QC. It's only the lowest setting that failed. Looks like the blower resistor. I looked under the dash this evening and only saw two sets of wires around the blower motor - 2 wires going directly to the blower motor and five wires going into a large vertical connector on the plenum box. Is this vertical connector the blower resistor? Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Blower resistor is located inside the air plenum. (the airflow helps keep it cool because it can run cherry-red hot) The blower resistor has one wire more than the number of fanspeeds available on the switch.

    I beleive on your 2002, the blower-resistor is accessed from behind the glovbox.
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota 4 wheel drive truck. I towed it behind my motorhome on my vacation. After visiting, I hooked it back up to my motorhome, but couldn't get it to stay in neutral so I could tow it again. I pushed the transfer button in, but it would not go into neutral. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! grannygrey
  • condensation water from a/c leaking into passenger side of cab . took it onto the dealership they said the air deflector was out of place all they did was reposition it. It still seems to be leaking.I think it is something inside the blower.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    When you performed the procedure that I described to you, did you get a "P done" in the oddomer display? If you did, there were no codes stored. When you perform this test the ignition switch transitions from on-to-off and off-to-on must be smooth and evenly timed in moderate succession. Going too fast or too slow will confuse the PCM logic. In addition, all doors should be closed and no other accessories or lights be operating.

    What you did perform is the Instrument Cluster test.

    The 950 code is "The instrument cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB." Basically, there is a problem in the anti-lock braking system and the "ABS" lamp is not illuminating, or the anti-lock brake controller (CAB) failed to give a self-test "ABS" lamp on signal when the engine was first started.

    The 999 code is "An error has been discovered." This is just a verification code that there's a problem. This was in effect generated by the 950 fault.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Bruce,

    glad all the gears and bearings are OK. Another solid testimonial for REDLINE.

    dataguru
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    Replaced the blower resistor on my 02 QC today. It's held in the bottom of the plenum box by 2 - 8 mm hex head screws. You have to drop the lower air duct a little bit to gain access to the leftmost screw. The new blower resistor appears to be a much more durable design than the original one.
  • Hi Guys (and maybe gals) - I'm a reasonably competant amateur mechanic and replaced the front calipers on my 92 Dak. 4 wh dr- traded old ones when I got the new , used my old fairly new pads but the new ones drag on the inside of the rim pretty badly, took them back to the parts store and they gave me another set - looked the same, by now the old ones were gone. Seems like the outside of the caliper is cocked up a little so that the outer upper part of the caliper body drags on the rim - factory mags. Took them off and looked good to see if I screwed up but don't think so - I think the old ones had a bushing of some sort which fit over the stainless mounting bolts and inside the rubber bolt boot but the new calipers only had the bolt directly inside the rubber bushing - any ideas??? Thanks
  • gas gauge some times just goes to E and can go back up right away or a few minutes later or next day, and lights on display for headlight switch goe out too but at same time, have tapped on dash and dipsly lights for head lights witch come back on, prob a loose connection but both seem to happen at same time. anyone know if the gas gauge is wired thru the head light switch, just ordered a new switch to try on error fixing
  • replaced my for the second time, only $17 at dealer and is located in the duct work just above the passaenger's feet area, follow wires , they plug into the bottom and is NOT BEHIND GLOVE BOX, dealer even told me it was behind the glove box
    2 screws and is very easy to replace, buy two at a time and keep one in the glove box, cheap fix but very annoying upon breaking
  • Help...I am trying to remove the bezel that covers the cd/radio etc. to get access to the cigar lighter power feed (to power a radar detector and revolving blue light -- I am a volunteer FF).

    Problem is, that after removing the 2 bottom screws, the bezel still won't budge. Are there "hidden screws" or releases?
    :confuse:
  • Does ANYone know what codes 950 or 999 mean on the '97 Dakota?

    I hear about "P" codes, but I see no such letter on the (odometer) readout.

    Does anyone have a list of complete codes for this Dakota?

    Thanks.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Looks like you missed my response in post #3621.

    When you performed the procedure that I described to you, did you get a "P done" in the oddometer display? If you did, there were no codes stored. When you perform this test the ignition switch transitions from on-to-off and off-to-on must be smooth and evenly timed in moderate succession. Going too fast or too slow will confuse the PCM logic. In addition, all doors should be closed and no other accessories or lights be operating.

    What you did perform is the Instrument Cluster test.

    The 950 code is "The instrument cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB." Basically, there is a problem in the anti-lock braking system and the "ABS" lamp is not illuminating, or the anti-lock brake controller (CAB) failed to give a self-test "ABS" lamp on signal when the engine was first started.

    The 999 code is "An error has been discovered." This is just a verification code that there's a problem. This was in effect generated by the 950 fault.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Hello all, does anyone know how to make an '02 QC 4.7L auto go higher than 100mph without cutting out on you? Just curious to know.

    Thanks.
    Jody
  • Yes, seems like I somehow missed your 9/1 post - sorry.

    Thanks all the same, Dusty - that helped clear up a bit on the 950 code.

    I went back and - again - tried to elicit the infamous P-code. I used your instructions to the letter - even closed doors and shut down all accessories. ZIPPO!

    Off-On-Off-On-Off-On

    All I see in the odometer is a readout of my mileage. And the cussin' Check Engine light is on (Actually, yesterday it was OFF all day!).

    I wish I could figure out just what the trick is to reveal the P-code. Can't imagine what I'm doing wrong. Seems very temperamental ...

    Is it possible I won't/can't get a P-code, and that the Check Engine is actually from the (very minor in my book) 950 ABS fault? Just a thought ...

    tommy
  • It depends on how bad you want to erase the speed limiter. Superchips tuner #3715 will do the job for around $400. It will also enhance the performance of your engine depending on the settings you choose. Higher performance means higher octane requirements. You are lucky to get 100mph. All I can get is 92.
  • Hey! I'm new to this forum and new to Dakota trucks, so here's my problem. I recently bought a 1997 Dodge Dakota 3.9L with high mileage (162,000). The truck looked and ran like it was very well maintained. I decided to do a little maintenance and change the oil and filter plus the transmission filter. Now for some reason I'm experiencing a huge loss of power and an occasional backfire that seems to be coming back up through the throttle body. I think the problem occured about two weeks after the oil and filter change so it may be unrelated? The power loss seems to happen after my truck has ran just long enough to warm up. The only code displayed is # 950? I'm at a loss. Does anyone have any ideas? :sick:
    stevem1961
  • I have an 03 Dakota SXT package, and have just broken 38,000 miles on it. Of course, at about the 36,800 mark, after the warranty ran out, something had to go wrong. What the problem is is that my climate control system is screwed up. When I put the fan setting on the first 3 speed settings, nothing happens. Then, when I put it on the 4th and highest setting, the system works as it should. I was told by a dealer that it is going to be 80 just to see what the problem is, and I was wondering if anyone knew what the cause of this may be. Any information would help. Thanks.
  • Common problem with Dakotas. It is the resister block for the fan. The first three speeds of the fan are resistor controlled. The high speed power does not go through the resistors. You can get the resistor block from the dealer for about $10 and change it yourself. It is located in the A/C plenum under the dash on the passenger side. Look for a vertically mounted plug with five wires. You may or may not have to move something to get access to the fasteners for the resistor block. It's easier to take out the resistor before trying to disconnect the electrical plug.
  • Just a little more information for ya. I checked the fuel pressure today and found it to be around 47psig. While my truck was idling it sounded like it was loading up and only running on a couple of cylinders. A quick flip of the throttle cleared it out but it would idle back and load up again after a couple of minutes. Could this be caused by a plugged up converter? :sick:
  • Does anyone know how to check a catalytic converter. A friend of mine said to check the temperature across the converter. The inlet temperature was 348* and the outlet temp. was 798* and was slowly climbing. (Checked with a Fluke touch probe not an infrared). Do these temps sound normal? :confuse:
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. I'm begining to wonder now if the "P" code diagnostics started in '97. I thought they did when they went to the new instrument panel design.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Can anyone tell me how to turn the "check 4wdr" light off. The tech at Dodge says there's no code, nothing wrong, and can't turm the light off either.
    Carl
  • Looks like a trip to the repair shop may be in order. I found out that when my truck is idling and starts loading up it sounds like it's trying to suck the hood right down through the intake. I found a small vacuum hose just laying under the breather where it connects to the throttle body, but I can't find any open ports. It's about 10" by 1/4" and was laying on the drivers side. Any ideas? Things that make you go Hmmm? :confuse:
  • cnegly, If you have 4wd I haven't a clue. If you have a 2wd there is a Service Bulletin to correct the problem. The SB number is 08-032-00 REV A. It applies to 2001 Dakotas built prior to 10/13/00. The corrective action is to replace the HVAC control assembly. I don't know what the HVAC Control has to do with 4wd but I replaced mine and corrected the problem. The Control cost me $150 from an online dealer in July of '03.
  • im trying to take off the knee bolster to make a flasher relay change out easier. i took out the three screws at the bottom. my haynes book says to use a dull bladed tool to dislodge the clips at tjhe top of the bolster. all i have managed to do is make gouges in the plastic. is there a trick to taking this thing off?? please help!! thanks
  • I have a 01 Dakota 4X4 with 69,000 miles on it. I live where it is very warm. Whenever I start my truck, it revs up and down until I finally "blip" it to make it stop. What could be the problems, and is it something I can fix on my own?
  • I have a 2001 Dakota Club Cab 4.7L V8 - Recently it quit while I was driving, lost all gauges and would not start again. It was running great prior. I had also just filled up with gas - now when you turn key it will cycle then gas gauge light comes on, check engine light, and check gauges light also the odometer will blink four times then reads "no bus". I tried to read the error code by turning key to on and pressing the odometer reset button on then letting it go. I received codes 920,921 & 999. I called the dealer to find out what these codes mean and of course they did not know. Does anyone know what they mean?? Has anyone else had a similar problem?? I would appreciate any help!image
  • I have had this problem for a while now. My 01 Dakota 4X4 quadcab's stock single CD/radio flashes on and off, and then sometimes the radio will come on eventually. If I want to hear a CD, I have to turn it off, put a CD in, then turn it back on, and it will play it no problem. If I try to put in a CD when the radio is flashing on and off, the CD goes in intermittently, and then doesn't play. Is this a simple fuse problem or something?
    I tell you, I have had nothing but problems with this vehicle since I bought it brand new. :lemon:
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