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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    WOW -- a dealer replaced the PCM before checking a KNOWN failure item (Crank position sensor)

    Like I have said before, the engine computer (PCM) does not get "flakey",,,it either WORKS or DOES NOT WORK...there is no in between.

    I hope you did not have to PAY for the PCM!!
  • Actually didn't use the dealer at all. PCM was used and was returned (p/n wasn't exact so he took it back). I wish I had known about the CPS before I went down that road...but it all turned out well in the end. Hopefully, my experience will help someone else out...
  • Oops, :blush: bpeebles, didn't relize you were responding to Seth's post.
    I would like to echo Seth's THANK YOU to all the people who have posted their solutions to similar PCM problems.... :shades:
  • Now the dealer is telling me that I need Oxygen sensors also. May have my truck back this evening if all goes well?
  • Did you ever get this solved? I have a similar problem. However, if I shutoff the ac for about 5 minutes then back on it will work for awhile then shuts down again.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Dont forget that the O2 sensors (As well as the PCM) are all coverend by the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE. Depending on the model-year of your vehicle, that may be up to 10 years 100,000 miles.

    Read the documentaiton that came with the owners manual to get details about the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Even if the transmission would bolt up...and I'm not sure about that...you may find that a 318 is too powerful for the old four-cylinder transmission.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Without going back and looking at your olderposts, the intake manifold gasket was a problem on the earlier magnum motors. I doubt very much that a catalytic converter would cause an intake manifold gasket problem anyway.

    Regarding the O2 sensor, with air leaking passed the throttlebody via the defective intake manifold, you may get a bad O2 problem code. The O2 sensors on earlier 3.9s, 318s, and 360s don't usually go bad in the full state way, but get lazy in that they are slow to react to exhaust air stream temperatures. In fact, on a lot of them after the engine gets run at operating temperature for a while they act almost normal. However, in a high mileage engine it might be worth changing it out anyway.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • 2000 Dakota, 3.9L and my headlights wouldn't come on after a cold morning start. I tried restarting the engine, cycling the light switch, and tapping the relay(s). Headlights didn't come on until I used the turn signal and they came on immediately. Lights worked OK all summer. Sounds like a possible cold solder joint - but where?

    3250man
  • Well, I finally got my truck back from the dealer. You were right Dusty, no problem with the converter just mainly the intake gasket. They replaced some other items also. They replaced one injector, some water hoses, my new plug wires that I posted earlier, the oxygen sensors etc. My truck seems to be running better than it was before I started having the trouble :D Thanks for the warranty info also but I'm at 164000 on the mileage so warranty's not an issue. The majority of the cost of the repair (1.6K) was the labor. Thanks to everyone who posted their thoughts and tried to help. Think I'll tow my boat to the river for a little R & R today :shades:
    Steve
  • does anyone have any suggestions. i purchased the belltech rear shackle kit to lower my 2000 dakota and u have to take the rivets out of the leaf spring brackets. i am having a very hard time with the rivets. any suggestions?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Glad to hear that things worked out okay and the truck is running good.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Are not operational. Have checked fuses- which were not blown- but replaced for good measure. Still not working. Any other suggestions?
  • It's a long shot but check the ground. They both use the same ground point (G207). If you pull down the carpet just to the right of the gas pedal you will see two ground points. The forward one is G207. I say "long shot" because if the ground is bad there should be other problems as the ground is shared with other components.
    Good luck
  • Hi,

    I have exactly the same problem on my 2002 Dakota. There is an inch of water under my carpet on the passenger side. Did you ever get your problem successfully resolved?
  • I have a 99 Dakota sport CC 4X4 with 77000 miles and have to replace ball joints and tie rods. Has any one else had this problem? what is the best to replace it with? I can not believe these would go bad with this mileage on them. I had a 1990 Dakota with 250000 miles and never had a problem Thanks
  • There was a problem with the evaporator drain on a lot of the Dakotas. The drain is just a short straight tube that protrudes through the firewall on the passenger side. While driving, the drain water was being blown back along the tube and into the passenger compartment. I think Dodge has a fix that installs a drain tube and seals the firewall opening with silicone. Along with that problem I had a leaking windshield on my '01 CC.
  • I to just bought a 2005 quad 4x2 and it shimmies, took it to the dealer and there has been bulletin out for warped axles and then the brake drums have to be replaced. So go to the dealer and have them pull up the service bulletin, then the have to check the numbers on the axles and you will find out the problem could be as the SRB describes.
  • I have a 2005 Quad cab and the same shimmie, Ask your dealer about the Service Bulletin that is out for that problem, the axles are warpped and the drums need replacing. They have known about this problem for six months
  • Hi, I've got a 2002 Quad Cab 4.7L auto 4wd that has recently started acting up. For the most part, it's doing fine, but every once in a while, the 4wd system decides to engage on its own. The 4High light comes on, and you can tell by its resistance to turn on dry pavement that it is actually engaged. You can usually get it to disengage again by shutting the ignition off and back on a few times. The "Service 4WD" light comes on when this is happening as well.

    Also (possibly related) the dome lights came on a few days ago without being switched on (and they refused to go off). At the same time, the key chime was going off even though the keys weren't in the ignition.

    What's up? Is the chassis control computer going wacky, or is this a problem with the TCCM? I've got an AutoTAP OBDII scan tool -- should it be able to retrieve transfer case error codes?

    Thanks in advance for your help!
    kst8engineer
  • check the battery first. if the battery is weak strange things can happen. Too much electronics in todays cars and trucks
  • The blower on my heater/ AC doesn't come on got a resistor to try but can't buy a copy of a manual for an 03 in Racine/Milwaukee Wi where is the resistor located,ordered the service manual but it will take a week to get here and I'm fogging up.

    Norm :confuse:
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    The blower resistor is located in the blower plenum to the left of the blower motor. It is held in by two 8mm hex head screws. There is a wire harness with five wires going to it. It is easiest to remove the resistor before removing the wiring connector. It's difficult to see without crawling underneath the dash a bit. The leftmost screw is a bit of a pain to get to. I just replaced the one in my 02 QC last month.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Been in the auto repair business and around cars most of my life. I've seen ball joints and tie-rods wear and fail at mileage much less than yours. Ford Falcons and early Mustangs, for example, typically required ball joints at 25,000 miles.

    However, on you '99 Dakota there was a issue with the ball joint seals prematurely failing allowing moisture and water to enter the internal joint connection and cause rust. Chrysler has extended the warranty on the upper ball joints up to 2003. The newer ball joints have a much more durable seal.

    As to tie-rods, at 77,000 miles this seems early based on my experience from fellow Dakota owners, but I have read of a few being replaced in the Edmunds forums.

    As to replacements, I can't recommend any particular brand. When I worked in the business Moog was usually a good quality replacement for most everything.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Since your problem it intermittent, the battery suggestion is on solid ground especially if its the factory original. As the previous posted stated, flaky things happen to a Dak when the battery is on the threshold of going belly up. However, the Central Timer Modules (CTM) on previous years also have a higher than normal failure rate.

    As to reading TCCM codes with an OBD2, I have no idea. The current tool recommended by Dodge is the OBD3.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • I have a 2005 Dakota Quad Cab 4X4 that I use on the farm. On dirt roads particularly the ones that are really rippled up by heavy truck traffic, my truck rides extremely rough, almost like a 3/4 ton. The back end hops around horribly. It has stock 245-75-16 tires, and stock shocks. Will a 265-70-16 tire and different shocks help to smooth this truck out, or is there another solution. I tried dropping my air pressure down to 26 psi, that helps in rough fields but on the road the ride is the same.
  • This message is to all of you with the "Warped Axel, Bad brake drums etc." problem. I haven't posted for a while, trying not to jinx my outcome. Chrysler admitted that they couldn't fix the problem and they bought my truck back. I have the check in hand, it took two months to get through all their red tape I held my breath the whole time. I am in the Pittsburgh area and would be happy to answer questions. They put me through hell, but I kept my mouth shut. Hope this helps. By the way I bought the truck in May, took it back the first time two weeks later. I had it back 4 times before they involved the Chrysler rep. He tried twice (everything from axels to drums to wheels), the last time he brought another rep and they took the fuse for the anti-lock brakes, still no help.

    :lemon:
  • Can anyone help me here?
    I've tried everything related to poor fuel economy on my 1989 Dodge Dakota.
    Here's the short list:
    1. Replaced entire exhaust system (cat converter, muffler, pipes) from engine to exhaust pipe.
    2. Major tune-up: Injector system cleaned professionally. Replaced Oxigen sensor, fuel filter, pcv valve, spark plugs and wires, gas cap, air filter, etc (everything!).
    3. Compression and cylinder leak down test: all within specifications (130 psi plus or minus 15 according to Dodge). Fuel pressure test passed.
    4. New Tires (3-months old) kept at 38-40 psi.
    5. Using premium gasoline (Chevron).
    6. No engine leaks (new oil pan and valve cover gasket). Using 15-50 Mobil 1 plus 1 qt. lucus.

    After all this, I still only get 11-12 mpg on the the highway. I used to get 18-20 mpg with my bed (with camper shell) fully loaded with gear going from Los Angeles to San Francisco!!!!
  • Found it and was a breeze to change, under the glovebox on passenger side had to clip the tags on the side of the new resistor

    :shades: Norm
  • I too bought my 05 Quad Cab 4X4 Dakota in the Pittsburgh area. I have never been so fed up with a new vehicle in my life. I absolutely hate this truck because it vibrates, and Dodge refuses to fix it.

    I have been trying to avoid seeing an attorney, though it looks like that is my last resort.

    Would you be willing to speak with me to give me some advise? If its preferable, I could even meet with you somewhere like a resturaunt in the Western PA area (?) to discuss your experience and how you handled this situation.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks.
This discussion has been closed.