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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    To check the for the simplest solution would be the "flasher can." There are two separate flashing relays, one is for the four way flashers (yours are okay) and one is for the turn signals. As a rule, even if the "can" is faulty, you would get some indication from the dash, but that is the first place that I would look.

    Bookitty
  • tjcintjcin Posts: 4
    I've got a fairly new Chrysler minivan and didn't get the extended warranty when I bought it. What company provided your extended warranty and would you recommend them. It seems that after reading these horror stories on this website that I should have an extended warranty on this new van
  • amend1amend1 Posts: 98
    rich28,
    I was having the problem mostly on the highway when in cruise control. Then I began to notice that even around town when the trans would go into overdrive & lockup, the gas pedal seemed ultra sensitive and it would happen even when I hit the slightest bump. The next time on the highway, I got so pissed off, I floored the gas pedal and pressed it up and down a bunch of times doing about 65MPH. The problem went away. That got me thinking it was the TPS. I took it out, two screws, and turned it by hand several times and replaced it. You actually can do that by just working the gas pedal with the engine OFF from idle to WOT several times. This will accomplish the same thing. It's an easy repair if you decide to take that route. Good luck!
    Bill
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    You stated you had spark but now are saying you suspect electrical.....if you have spark then it can't be electrical.
    If, as stated, you have fuel,spark, and compression then the only thing left is a timing problem.
  • :) :shades: ;) It was the relay...fixed it right up. thanks
  • I have a 95 dodge dakota v6. It has started running really rough after warm-up. I have replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor without any luck. I thought I had some bad gas, tried the seafoam, no luck. I can get it up to maybe 25 mph, it will run fine for a few minutes, then start running rough again. Then you can get it up to 40 mph, and the same thing happens. Well now it stalled, and will not restart. Any ideas what could be wrong? Any ideas/help will be greatly appreciated. Thinking maybe fuel pump?
  • rich28rich28 Posts: 23
    Bill,
    Did you install a new TPS? I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "working the gas pedal with the engine OFF from idle to WOT several times". Also, where is the TPS located...I guess I need to get an engine diagram from somewhere. Any details would be greatly appreciated!

    By the way, my truck also surged when I hit bumps...sounds like the same problem. I have to get this fixed before I drive 14hrs. to the Outer Banks for some 4wheel'n fun - last year the truck surged all the way home, it sucked!

    Thanks!
    Rich
  • I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9 L Club Cab. I have had great suuccess in the past with solving the various irritating problems that come up. My most recent little irritation has to do with the drivers seat. The lever on the side of the drivers seat that would tilt the back forward is acting up. It used to flip completely forward and all you had to do was push it back and it would click into the "correct' place. Now to push the seat back yopu must pull up the lever and hopefully get into the right spot and realease it. I have inspected the mechanism as well as I could, and only notice a white piece of plastic drops down when the lever is pulled to tilt the seat back forward. If I use a hand to push this up into a track like area when I pull the seat lever up I can push the seat back into the correct position.

    I had hoped to remove the drivers seat and figue out the system, but it seems I will need to remove the entire front row of seats. I have the "bench" style front seat with the armrest that flips up and down. Any suggestions. I can only imagine what a dealer would charge for this stupid thing. Oh by the way in my looking I attempted to unhook the upholstery to see better and a tiny spring with a long tail (appears to be broken) was found on the floor.
  • I have a 1997 Dakota with a V6, 3.9 engine. My pressure gauge was operating sporadically and now only goes to 20 psi. Can you tell me where the oil pressure sensor is located on the engine?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    If you will go to Auto Zone website you can locate components on almost any engine.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Begining in 2005 the 4.7 received carbon fiber valve covers.

    At 58K my '03 4.7 shows no signs of leaking at either valve cover. However, I noticed yesterday I have something leaking oil at the front of the engine.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • If only Dodge would take care of this issue! I bought a 2000 Dakota new in March of 2000... By September of 2001 I had already had the front rotors turned or replaced 5 times without fixing the issue. I pursued a Lemon Law claim in Washington State and Got a new truck. I settled with Chrysler before going through the procedures and they agreed to replace it under the terms of the lemon law.

    Under the terms in Washington State I was required to pay for mileage (based on a stanadardized formula available on the state website). The net result was a new truck with a slightly lower payment. But overall, aside from the fact that it reset the clock on my car loan, the benefits of the new truck outweighed the fact that I would pay longer. It was almost like I had leased the first truck. Dodge even gave me credit for the Rhino lining I had installed.

    I will say that I had to educate the dealer on the Lemon Law... I had to bring documentation from the state website and argue for weeks about who pays license fees & taxes, etc. In fact, they had to custom order my new truck, and it arrived and sat on their lot for 3 weeks while we wrangled with paperwork (I refused to pick it up until they agreed to follow the terms of the settlement). But overall it was definitely worth it. I put miles on the old truck, and felt it fair that I should pay for those. But it all came out in the wash. It basically cost me nothing out of pocket to upgrade to the new truck (except restarting the clock on my payments).

    My point is, it was a pain but it was worth it to go through with it in my case. Having said that though, the 2002 they replaced it with had the same brake issue. Finally on the 3rd try, I let them put ventilated rotors on. That solved the issue and I am at 60k miles on the ventilated rotors with VERY good success. (NOTE: Get a spec sheet on the rotors and verify they follow 100% of the installation instructions!)

    I say go for it... Get your new truck. I encourage everyone to do that - because until more do, Dodge will not acknowledge this serious deficiency in the brakes of the Dakota. I also encourage you to go to NHTSA.GOV and report the issues there. The more public complaining you do, the more likely Dodge will correct the problem!

    Good luck!
  • amend1amend1 Posts: 98
    Rich, Yes, the bump thing happened to me too. The TPS is a small device located on the throttle body unit. On the 4.7L engine, it's on the drivers side. It's about the size of a golf ball and held there with two small screws. R&R is simple, just make sure you have it canted a little when you put it back to "catch" the throttle shaft. All it does is rotate with the throttle shaft and send electrical signals back to the confuser. I think what happens is that over time, the surface of the resistor becomes a little worn and dirty, thus giving the computer "funny" readings. You can remove it and turn it by hand to "clean" the surface of the resistor, or simply work the gas pedal to rotate the throttle shaft, accomplishing the same thing, with the engine off, that is. You can also R&R it, either yourself or bring it to a shop. I hope this helps. If you wish to e-mail me, it's w_amend@yahoo.com.
    Bill
    PS: Online auto parts stores that sell the TPS indicate "better than stock" quality, which means to me thev've been having problems with them.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    A friend of mine had a Dodge Shadow with a similar problem. It turned out to be the timing belt broke. There was no internal damage because the engine is a non-interference design. Good luck.
  • rockotarockota Posts: 1
    i've got the tank dropped already but, can not figure out how to pull the in-tank assembly. I had a 1990 ram 250 cargo van that I replaced the fuel pump in. It had a ring clamp or whatever that I loosened up witha screwdriver and the whole deal slid right out. Anyway, hopefully someone can steer me in the right direction. I don't want to screw anything up. thanks.
  • mkelley1mkelley1 Posts: 6
    Thanks for your words of encouragement. I had to hire a lawyer for advice and to pursue Michigan lemon law. I'm still fighting and have been fighting since February. The dealership and Chrysler deny there are any problems with vibration in my 05 Dodge quad cab. They have refused to work on the truck after they changed the axles. They say it is normal. It still vibrates and I'm very frustrated. Hopefully, my lawyer will be able to help. I have also filed a complaint at NHTSA.GOV.
  • arnold7arnold7 Posts: 1
    2001 DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB TRUCK HEADLIGHTS AND DASH LAMPS FLICKER. 90,000 MILES ON VEHICLE. THE CAR HAS TO BE RUNNING FOR WARM-UP TO HAVE THE PROBLEM TO OCCUR. INTERMITTENT FLICKER ABOUT 10 SECONDS. IF AC IS ON , OCCURS SOONER AND WITH MORE FREQUENCY.
  • I replaced my in tank fuel pump on my 95 Dodge Dakota
    I broke the hose fitting off on the rollover valve.
    my question is how will this effect the way the truck runs
    or will it?
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    Anyone out there know what the heater/AC calibration procedure is for an 02 Dakota? I recently had the heater core replaced in mine and now the recirculate air function is not working quite right. It seems to almost always recirculate, when it should be drawing in outside air. I've heard that there is a calibration procedure for the HVAC system that "trains" the DC servo-motors where the various stop limits are for the doors and flaps in the HVAC system. If I can find out the procedure, I would give it a try before taking it back into the shop to get it looked at. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Lariat, that makes a kind of squeaking noise when it is put into drive. It makes the noise when I come to a stop and when I take off. Please help some!!!
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Check the universal joints......
  • I had them checked. But that is not what it is. I can hear the noise inside the truck but cannot hear it on the outside. It actually sounds like something might be rubbing. The mecahnic that I took it to said it could be the shock but he said that it was in a steel casing and you should not be able to hear it.
  • palm55palm55 Posts: 3
    :mad:
    I have a Dakota Quad with 5.9 V8. Last Friday, with just over 39,000 miles on the clock, traveling at 35 mph on flat pavement, the engine failed.

    Initial diagnosis by the dealership: Exhaust valve at #1 cylinder shattered into 3 pieces. Three calls to Chrysler left me stonewalled. The 2000 was covered by 3/36, and I bought a 5/60 extended warranty. And so, Chrysler's stance is "Tough luck, bud!!!"

    Anyone else had a similar problem dealing with the "friendly folks at Chrysler?" And if so, any tips on next steps?

    This has caused us much grief... Had to re-finance the home to buy a new vehicle for the wife so that I can drive her old one to work.
  • palm55palm55 Posts: 3
    A quick correction to the above: It was the Valve Spring that shattered... The tech also found a bent pushrod.

    I have authorized the dealership to pull the head off to check for further damage (valve/piston/cylinder). The valve spring failure was CLEARLY the cause of engine failure. Yet Chrysler will not respond.

    This is VERY frustrating. I have a background in automotive technology (and have actually written service training programs for Chrysler). I had ASSUMED that the company would be anxious to know WHY one of its most reliable engines had failed so early. Not so. It seems that these folks aren't terribly concerned with how a vehicle performs once they get your money, and get the thing over the curb.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,941
    Is it possible they are interpreting your mechanical failure to over-revving, which does produce a similar type of damage?

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  • rick49rick49 Posts: 1
    Dose anyone know which fuse is used by the fuel gauge in a 1995 dodge dakota. Secondly this dekota has a fuel where the fill pipe meets the gas tank. How is the filler pipe connected to the fuel tank?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    wild guess here.... a clamp on the rubber hose that leads from the filler-inlet?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    "wild guess here.... a clamp on the rubber hose that leads from the filler-inlet?"

    bpeebles, you been peeking under my old Dak again?? :D
  • mnallmnall Posts: 8
    Hey Palm55..........the good people at Chrysler/Dodge wont do anything to help anybody........they suck!!
    My 05 Dakota is my first and last Chrysler product for sure.
This discussion has been closed.