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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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  • mkelly1mkelly1 Posts: 1
    I've got a 88 Dakota with rusted out front shock mounts. Dodge doesn't sell the part. Is there any aftermarket parts I can get?
  • TRY CHECKING YOUR BATTERY TERMINALS FOR GOOD CONNECTIONS
  • jaykay2jaykay2 Posts: 1
    1993 Dodge Dakota has no brakes. It is a 4 wheel drive with ABS system. Have replaced master cylinder and mechanical parts are all fine. Can I get a trouble shooting manual?
  • shineshine Posts: 20
    I'm sure this as been covered before but I did not find anything. What type of snow plow can be put on a Dakota? I don't need a driveway plow but a semi commercial one.
  • urban3urban3 Posts: 74
    I'm trying to do some basic problem investigation for the following situation. Any input would be appreciated.

    2001 QC 4.7 Auto 4x4 operating normally until today.

    Got in this morning with normal interior overhead illumination and key chime, then turn the key and <1 sec flash of system startup, then no power.

    The electrical systems resets itself "somewhat". After several minutes, power is again available for interior light, key chime and door locks with engine off.

    Went the key is turn same situation or if the headlight switch is turned on without turning key first. Then power cut out, time out period, then limited power.

    I'm checking fuses and relays but not an expert. I do have the 01 service manual (orange book, although that year it was green!)

    Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,083
    Soulds like whimpy battery that has enough juce to power the little things. When attempt to crank engine, the voltage dropps off.

    Have you checked the battery terminals and charged the battery?

    (PS) Most auto-parts stores will test your battery for you.
  • urban3urban3 Posts: 74
    Thanks for your quick response.

    That's one conclusion I came to as well. One of the first things I did check it with a simple meter, but only volts, not amps.

    Also, cleaned battery terminals and cable connectors. Did not start (same symptoms) with jumper cables.

    As you advise, going to stick to checking basics a while longer before calling the dealer.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Shine, the Dakota is not a Ram, and you should have heavy duty components on your truck such as a transmission cooler (if it has auto), HD battery, alternator and I would recommend premium shocks. Moving snow is hard on a truck. My son has a landscaping business, and had to move snow for his regular commercial accounts. He soon tired of tearing up his equipment, and started subcontracting snow removal out to all of the guys who had a 4WD and liked to play. He said that they can spend the time in the Spring fixing their trucks. He needed his for landscaping. The smalles truck that he had was an F-250 Super Duty and now has nothing smaller than an F-350 Super Duty. So imagine a mid size truck in that situation. Some of the more outstanding enemies are curbs and concrete parking lot bumpers.

    Bookitty
  • urban3urban3 Posts: 74
    Battery tested at 9.8V 0.00 CCA (volts were higher yesterday)

    Even if it took a charge doesn't look like it's ever going to be able to get back to its old self again.

    After 4 years of absolutely no electrical problems, I think it's time for new battery. I realize it is possible there's a problem in the charging system or other electrical circut fault that can drain the battery, but I think this one is telling me it's done.
  • ilsalesilsales Posts: 1
    Have a 2001 Dodge Dakota with electrical problems- No headlights of running lights but the brake lights work- windshield wipers only work on high and interior light out- getting a noise from both headlights and interior light like its charging even if the switch is off or the car is off- the interior flashes once in a while- flash even more when light switch disconnected. Any ideas out there. Checked most of the grounds with a meter already. I could isolate if I had a wiring diagram.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    There are plow set-ups for Dakota, but I believe they are all smaller than those for full-size trucks.

    Like other comments, plowing with a truck is tough on the platform. Even 1/2 ton versions get beat up pretty bad. Signs of a plow frame on a truck usually kill resale value.

    The Dakota is a tough and durable mid-size truck platform. Occasionally I will see a flat-bed Dakota even. But for plowing I agree with Bpeebles. I'm sure it would serve you fairly well in that duty, but it wouldn't be my first choice to plow with.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • Hi everyone.

    I am having a problem with my 95 Dodge Dakota 3.9L. Before
    I go ahead and put a new computer in, I want to see if anyone else has
    experienced this problem and knows what may be causing it. At random,
    the A/C will turn on and the OverDrive will turn off at the same time.
    Clicking the OD button has no effect on it and all of the fan/air
    conditioning controls are turned off completly yet the A/C is still
    running strong. My guess is it's one of two things, either the computer
    is going haywire or there is a loose ground somewhere. I haven't had a
    chance to really look it over, but has anyone else had this happen? I
    did check the fuses and relays and all is fine there.

    Thanks,
    Josh
  • I had an eighty six ranger that had simular problems. I found out later.. much later it had a pluged cat. Perhaps your prlblem? then again might just be your coil.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    When I was changing the oil on my 02 QC (55K miles) this weekend, I noticed that the bottoms of the bellows on the steering rack had a thin film of oil on them - both sides. It was just enough to be visible, but wasn't dripping. It looks like the seals at the ends of the steering rack are leaking a little bit. It does not appear to be coming from anywhere else.

    Has anyone else noticed a problem like this on their Dakotas?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Yes. It usually does not warrant any worry. It depends on how bad it gets. My 2003 shows no signs of oil on the bellows at 42K. My son's '91 usually showed signs of light oil as a precursor to inner seal failure. Later Dakotas have a much more reliable steering rack.

    For increased piece of mind, have your dealer inspect it and have it on record.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • aaronwiaaronwi Posts: 18
    I have an 02 Dakota with the 4.7 V8. Since I bought it, I have had very poor mileage. One tank reached 14mpg (all highway driving at 65). I average between 9 and 11 mpg (90% highway).

    Dealer says "that's within specs"

    I'm running full synthetics in the lowest recommended viscosities for all lubricants.

    Any other possiblilites?
  • mikem5mikem5 Posts: 1
    I have an 01 3.9 with 55K that idles rough. I gave it a complete tuneup, and cleaned the throtle body. It helped a little but the shaking is still there just not as rough. does anyone one have the same problem? I called the service dept.at my dealers and they said it was common/normal to have a little shake in the 3.9 motors.
  • gwhgwh Posts: 3
    I have a 00&#146; 4x4 QC 5.9 Auto with a little over 80K

    I noticed that when on highway with cruise control on, it feels like it wants to change into passing gear.
    My question is this, the cruise control, or worst the transmission. Anyone else had this problem.
  • okie here goes my problem as I could not find another place to make a post about my dodge dakota 98

    Got my break pads and rutters *sp replaced, the front ones. Recently, everything was working fine! Then next day I get in my truck to go somewhere and all the ABS and BREAK lights come on, shortly after the CHECK ENGINE light comes on.

    I notice shortly after while being mezmerized by the lights that my spedometer is no longer working either... I then look at the other lights oil, gas, water, etc..they are working fine. My Odometer,..*sp has stopped at 102,901 and is no longer taking count.

    I take it back to the break pad people and tell them they better double check thier work cause now I have alot of lights on mostly dealing with my breaks and I don't know wtf is going on.

    The man 2 hours later comes back to me and pretty much tells me he has no idea whats going on, and that the computer is giving out two readings about two diff problems. One being some #72...I forget what it said...and another he siad had to do with a HUC... or something like that. CAD? or CAB? Two problems relating to those. I don't know. But he insist nothing is his fault. And then further tells me that he can't find the problem because he doesn't have dodge certified software to understand the computer and that he only recieves a generic read out, because dodge doesn't share thier software or something?

    He says that two possible sensors are not working, one being the one with the spedmeter, and the other being in the back dealing with the back breaks which they didn't even replace, so the fact that it is all not working...is just coincidance.

    Now I have to take it to another place course cause this place I had the breaks replaced at is a "Hibdons" which as Im sure most of u know does mostly tires.

    I take it to another place and they tell me its going to take 78 dollars for them to use thier generic computer on the truck in hopes they can find out if it really is those two sensors or what not. and then after the 78 dollars they will see if they can fix it.

    Now Im sure you are all just titalated by my story, but your wondering..okie whats the question again?

    I guess its a couple questions.

    1. One being , wtf , dodge software!? Where can I get ahold of some of this! and who uses it!? If I go to the dealer about this Im going to get raped! And no thanks.

    My mother has some theory about the manufactiors installing sensors that auto distruct at 100,000ish miles or so , so you HAVE to take it into the dealer. I donno she's crazy paranoid imo.

    My other friend says that if they didn't put in the break lines or something correct they could have pushed back into the truck the old fluid which might have caused the break light and abs light to go off...because it would have fed into the back sensor by the breaks, and that one might then read to the spedometer sensor then breaking it, oh yea and my anti lock breaks are no longer functioning.

    Tho the break guy tells me that has nothing to do with what he did either. He also mentioned to me in there that the problem with my truck was right on the front of it, refering to the dodge symbol on the front of my truck...what a smuck...Tho IM thinking okie I take my truck in for break pads and a day after I get it back I no longer have anti lock breaks?! Sounds fishy to me, but Im okie with just calling it a coincidance...but personally I want ur opinion...2. what do u think might have happened?

    ...anyone got any ideas?

    Aq
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Well, the majority of people I know are doing better than that. My '03 4.7 has averaged 16.4 over the last four tanks, very little highway driving.

    A little more information would be helpful. You don't say what transmission, body style, 4x4, or how many miles. Nor did you indicate if you used the cruise control on highway trips or how hilly an area your in. There could be some engine tune issues affecting your trucks fuel consumption, like a dirty air filter, worn spark plugs, or a clogged PCV valve.

    The one area that will have the most impact on an otherwise mechanically sound and correctly running 4.7 is the driver's style. If you're the impatient type of driver your mileage is going to be lower. Mountainous areas or lots of traffic stops and start ups will hurt, too.

    My occasional trip down I-90 to the Pennsylvania border from Rochester, New York, always yields me over 20 MPG and that's with a 800 pounds of ATV and other gear (4.7 automatic, 3:55 rear axle, Club Cab, 4x2) and at a steady 65 MPH.

    Regards,
    Dusty
This discussion has been closed.