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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • snturnersnturner Posts: 2
    Dealer says it is the torque convertor. They are putting a new one in now. We'll see what happens :lemon:
  • ticc94ticc94 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Dakota Sport, 4WD. The end of the shift lever with the Overdrive On/Off Switch is loose, and the wires have worn to the point of random shorting in the lever. Any ideas what wiring colors are under the dash coming out of the column to install a replacement switch on the dash?
    Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    I use a neat tool that I found at WallyMart (near the car-batteries) to test the charging system. It is a voltmeter that plugs into the ciggerete-lighter socket.

    I can monitor the charging voltage "insitu" while driving under all kinds of conditions. This is the only REAL way to ensure that the charging system is working properly.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    If you are showing a charge then the alternator is charging the battery. Depending on the ambient temperature, the maximum charge rate would be something around 15 volts. Try to get a better instrument reading of the voltage at the battery terminals with an accurate voltmeter to verify the charging voltage. If it is indeed 16 volts it may be overcharging the battery and damaging it over time.

    The voltage regulator has been internal to the computer on Chrysler products since the early 80s at least. If your's is overcharging the computer is a likely suspect. Battery draw with the engine ignition switch in the off position and all lights and accessories off, should be approximately 20 milliamperes.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Dont forget that there is a tepmurture sensor under the battery. According to the facroty shop manual, that sensor is used to feedback the battery temperture to the regulator . (Which Dusty correctly identified as placed in the computer)

    If that temp. sensor is wrongly sensing the battery, obviously, the charging voltage could be affected.
  • my motor knocks bad when the accelarator is pushed.??just started yesterday.
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hello Everyone;

    I have a 01 QC 4x4 4.7l auto. Just today I noticed when I put my heat or A/c on the only speed that works is the high setting on the knob. The first three are dead- no fan movement. Any ideas what this may be???

    All responses appreciated

    Thanks
    Tom.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Yep. I'm pretty sure you'll find that the fan speed resistor is open. The high setting draws current directly without going through the resistor. It is not an expensive repair.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi Dusty;
    Where is it located, look like, and approx $..
    I have an extended warrantee so for my deduct.$50 is it worth it........
    Thanks
    Tom.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    On your 2001 I think it's attached to the bottom of the fan motor housing. However, Dakota had a change where they were mounted to the floor pan. Not sure on your 2001.
    I'm pretty sure the resistor is under $20. Not sure what Dodge will get for labor, but you might be close to your deductible.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    What you describe is "engine knock" or "pre-ignition"... is there any chance you reciently filld up with fuel? Too-low octaine fuel is the most common cause of knocking under load. Try a tank full of hi-test fuel and see if the problem goes away.

    If that does NOT cure the problem, then suspect lean-running conditions or carbon build-up in the combustion chambers. Somtimes, dirty injectors will not automize the fuel sufficently.

    Worst case, you may have a mechanical probelm such as collapsed lifter or failing bearing.
  • i think so on the mechanical.going to dealership tomm.thnxz
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    gtownguy, I also have a 2001 Dak. I replaced the resistor some time ago for the problem that you are experiencing. The resistor is about $10 at the dealer. It is mounted vertically in the fan case under the dash forward of the glove box. If you look under the dash on the passenger side you can see the five wires that go to the plug. It is easier if you remove the two attaching screws first and pull the resistor out with the plug attached. The plug has a locking catch that is a little difficult to figure out in place. Part # 4885635AC

    Good luck, Dick
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Here we were, tooling along on the Garden State Parkway and the "check engine" light came on. After affirming that I had oil, coolant and all of the belts in one piece, I proceeded to the nearest Dodge dealer in Manahawkin, NJ. It was late afternoon and I pulled the code, "P0442" and gave it to them. Got nothing but a dumb look and they asked for registration and mileage. I have an extended service plan with a $100.00 deductible. Well, it was the gas tank cap (not loose, but failed) and it cost me $100.00 plus $6.00 tax. But what could I do, as I was on the highway, and didn't have any options. As a matter of fact, I am taking the truck to PA on Thursday for routine LOF and probably could have had them read the code there. Anyhow, the light is out and I am also out; $106.00.

    Bookitty
  • spzerospzero Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 dodge dakota.2 wheel drive. 3.9 liter v6. i recently tried to install a cd player by myself. i think i might have blown a fuse or wire somewhere. the headlights,panel lights,and brake lights dont work. any advice
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi Dick;
    Thanks Dick and all others who replied. I got the part (10.00) and replaced it last night. It works fine now. It was exactly where you said and thanks for the tip to remove it first before uncliping it. This site seems to be saving me more and more $, thanks!
    Bookitty- sorry about your cap, same thing happened to me, but luckily someone said to try a $12. gas cap first. I did and it worked. Afterwards I took apart my 01 oem cap and saw why it failed. It had metal discs in there and they had corroded. (looked like some type of valveing).

    Here's and update on my ride mechanically, 01 QC 4x4, 4.7 auto. 50k miles, at 2k bad injector,(warranty +poss. dealer trumped up to get work?),at 20k had sway bar bushings changed(warr.), at 30k had armrest hinge cover replaced(warr),had faulty headlight switch replaced under warr. at 35k, had bad fuel cap at 42k, had ball joint recall at 45k, changed plugs with oems at 47k (worn bad) , 50k blower resistor block, and recently used a lot of fuel inj cleaners and seemed to help idle.
    Other than synt oil changes at every 5-6k ,tire rotation every 7-8k, a k&n air filter at 20k, and changed rear end oil to mob1 gear oil at 30k.
    This summer plan to- change rear end fluid again(did not like some metal shavings in there), front diff, poss transfer and trans?, change antifreeze.
    In fall plan- poss brakes, shocks??? I have an extended warr to 60k, but most of this little stuff after 36k I do myself as its not covered.

    Thanks, I may not always post, but I do check frequently.
    Tom.
  • Okay, we were able to get a new battery and start the truck. We took it in to have the alternator tested on the vehicle. It was showing up as faulty. We purchased a new one and installed it over the weekend.

    By Monday, the battery was dead again and the engine died upon reaching work.

    Just prior to dying, the engine revved up significantly and the voltage meter moved further to the left indicating less and less charge.

    Two Questions:
    We plan to have someone look at the computer now to see if there is anything wrong with that. Any items we should be looking out for when we talk to the technicians about the computer?

    I have not seen the heat sensor under the battery... can you describe it for me?

    Thanks for all the input!

    Joe
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    I don't think the '91s had the battery temperature sensor. My son had a '91 and I don't remember seeing it.

    From your incident description it just sounds like your not charging. If the alternator is proven to be good, there must be either a wiring or a voltage regulator problem.

    Recheck that alternator. I've seen my share of aftermarket or rebuilt alternator fail quickly.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    I agree with Dusty. The worst alternators are the ones that are "guaranteed for life" The reason they are soooo cheeep is that they DO NOT TEST THEM after rebuilding... they save money by letting the CUSTOMERS test them (by installing them in their cars) I know this because I have called the rebuilders and they said that the internal diodes are not even tested....just new bearings and brushes.

    I have personally had to replace one of those "guaranteed for life" alternators 3 times before getting one that lasted longer than a month.

    Depending on the amount of labor involved to replace the alternator, this may or may-not be a good way to go. On some vehicles, the entire bumper and radiator must be removed to replace the alternator.... in those cases, I would just purchanse a better replacement part to begin with.

    A good rule of thumb to live by " A 'NEW' COMPONENT DOES NOT MEAN IT IS A 'GOOD' COMPONENT "
  • Well we took it in to have someone run some tests to see what was up. Now we are seeing cut wires, burned wiring harnesses and so forth, which we didn't see before. It makes sense to me that these could be causing shorts in the system that are draining the battery or not telling the alternator to charge the battery.

    We have it going to an electrical shop now to see there is anything they can tell us. We will have them test the "new" alternator too while it's there to see if there is any indication it is bad.

    We'll see what happens next.

    Thanks for all the input!

    Joe
This discussion has been closed.