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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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  • Alright thanks, yeah it was the same wheel for both calipers so I'll try changing the lines. Appreciate the advice haven't heard anyone tell me that yet.

    -Clint
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Have you checked the pick-up assembly inside the distributor?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • 68valiant68valiant Posts: 4
    Thanks Dusty. I re-tightened the ground on the CTM and cleaned the battery terminals. It has yet to malfunction. I am planning to replace the battery this weekend. If that doesn't fix it, I will to take it to the dealer.

    Thanks again,
    Jeremy
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Posts: 11
    Hello once again! My '02 Quad Cab produces a lot of engine noise when I step on the accelerator. I notice that the RPMs shoot up and engine noise increases louder than normal. This generally happens on really hot days here in Phoenix. I had my T-Stat replaced and radiator flushed and filled twice now and apparently that didn't do it. It doesn't make the noise all the time. I've gotten advice that maybe this is a transmission problem. The RPMs will shoot up to 6 maybe 7000 then it will shift down and run normal, when I do hear the eccessive engine noise, it's only when I accelerate from a complete stop. It's an automatic transmission by the way.

    Any Ideas?
    Jody
  • moaboveparmoabovepar Posts: 11
    Actually, it's more like 4 to 5000 that it will shoot up to...like it's in neutral.
  • motojaymotojay Posts: 2
    I just bought a used Dakota with 51K mi. Truck is in great shape, bought it private sale. On the test drive, I tried using the directional and it wasn't working. Owner said it was a coincidnece... Drove home, changed 25A fuse and all good. Put about 250 mi. on it so far and last night it blew AGAIN.

    Any suggestions before I start looking for this problem from scratch?

    Thanks!
  • motojaymotojay Posts: 2
    Anyone know about stock radio wiring harness compatibility?

    I'd like to swap my AM/FM/Cass stock radio for one with a CD player. Lots on Ebay but I don't know which years might be compat.. Was there a change in 2001?

    Jay
  • eden818eden818 Posts: 1
    Hi i have a problem. When i start my 99 dodge dakota sport truck up and then put it into drive the truck will accelerate but it hesitates to go into 2nd gear. After the first time it will not do it again. i stop and the go again and it is fine it is just at the beginning of every start.
    Is there any one that has had that problem or knows what i mean can you post a reply to me.

    Thanks
    Josh :confuse:
  • blue99rtblue99rt Posts: 1
    Man i saw your fruxtation with tire kingdom and i was like wow i will never even think of using tire kingdom again. i wanted a simple alignment on my 99 dakota r/t. went in there and asked the guy if they could check it for me he was a smart [non-permissible content removed] about it and i am pretty sure he was the manager he said our guys dont go to school for many years to become certified to be forced to work for free. after they aligned it they told me when i hit a bump it will be out of alinment again. why did they do it if they new it couldnt be aligned? he told me it was the control arm bushings. they shop that changed the bushings for me said there was nothing wrong with the ones i had on there. i went somewhere else and had them done and weht back to tire kingdom to do the alignment since i had a 1 year guarantee on it. so i went to tire knigdom and said i wanted an alignment and they did it. this time they tried to say it had frame damage and thats why it would align correct. luckley the 1st guy i delt with wrote on on the paperwork that it need upper control arm bushings. i showed it to him and he said i can get my money back on the alignment. i still was getting mad with them anbd one guy said if i call the 800 number they will take care of all of ot. he called and they said all i can get back is the moneyu for the alinment. then they assistant manager said give me 24 hours and i will take care of it. he did i got my money back on the alinment and the other shops laber and the parts. then come to fine out it need upoper tie rod ends. after doing that i still heard the noise that i heard the second i drove away from tire kingdom. the shop looked at it were i had the tierod ends done. they said that tire kingdom didnt tighten something up like they were suppose to. tire kingdom sucks and i will never use them again heck i will recomend to anyone that is going to have repairs done not to use them.
  • I have not had any major problems with my truck until now. There are two problems that may or may not be related. The first one is it starts fine, and then after driving for a couple of minutes, it will hestitate, like it is going to quit, and I hear a clicking noise the whole time, then it will run fine. It does this several times a day. I have learned that when it starts acting up, if I shift into neutral, the rpms will rev up, and then it will go to normal idle speed, and then I can shift back into drive and all is fine. It does this more at low speeds than high speeds. The second problem is when I am at high speeds, the transmition acts like it wants to shift. I feel a bump every so often. It does not do this if the overdrive is off.
  • johndakjohndak Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Dakota 2WD auto trans V8, 112k miles The "ENGINE CHECK" light came on this weekend, however the truck seemed to be running fine. I figured ok, the O2 sensor or something like that had gone. I took it to a dealer this morning and they said the check engine light was caused by no drop in RPM when it goes into OD, therefore, the torque converter is going. Bottom line - remove trans, replace torque converter, cost $2000. I am not sure this is a valid chain of logic based on the check engine light indicator. Has anyone else had this same problem? Any thoughts on where I should go from here? Second opinion? Trade? Leave it alone and chance trans failure and additional cost?

    Thanks for any input.
  • My air conditioning stopped working about 15 monthes ago. It would work initially (when cool ambient temp) but would stop when I actually needed. I took it into a garage to get checked out/recharged. The mechanic took a quick look and told me that the AC clutch was burned out ...and could not handle any real load. At some point it stopped even partially working.
    At that time ..... I chose not to fix it.
    But now I want to fix it. I checked out all the circuitry as prompted in my Haynes manual it it appeared to be alright. It had no recommended value for the electromagnet ring but mine showed zero ohms.
    I bought a used guaranteed-good AC clutch and changed it today. AC does still not work. The second electromagnetic ring also reads 0 ohms. I read another message which talked about a 3.7 ohm value for some AC component but did not understand which one.
    So .... what's my problem? Is it the electromagnetic ring or something else?
    Thanks, Greg.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My guess would be the torque converter clutch is not operating. I'd suspect other problems if the torque converter itself was bad.

    Two-thousand sounds like they want to rebuild.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • 05 Dakota Laramie 7000 miles and a bad shimmy that peaks around 40mph. I have had it in for service......Turned rotors, turned drums, Rotate & High speed balance. NO resolution. Still shakin. Dealer takes it for a test drive and says its fine and the next time I hop in the vehicle I find myself a 1/4 mile from the dealership heading down the hill for a stop light and Yysyydyyddyydyddyydyd My teeth start chattering...It is not absolutelty consistant. I have had the air bag light illuminate one time while breaking at highway speeds. I hope they can find a solution for all of us.
  • npsltnpslt Posts: 1
    I have the same problem -- What is the part number of the AC clutch?
    -- thanks
    Nick
  • gunrunr1gunrunr1 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 dakota v-8 5spd 85000mi , I'm experiencing engine noise( knocking-rattling-pinging, etc.), mostly when leaving from a dead stop, and then when I accelerate from low rpms. I use reg-unleaded, and 30w pennzoil. I live in the vegas desert so I hear it more in the summer mo. I'm the 2nd owner, the original owner used the truck to tow a 24ft trl from vegas to denver, I also have a loud squeak when I release the clutch in the lower gears, is this the throw-out bearing?
  • I don't know the part number. I have been dealing with used parts. All the V-8s of that time, seem to use the same compressor/clutch assembly.

    I have determined that the used replacement clutch which I installed is blowing the fuse immediately. Have checked out the circuit extensively and have not been able to locate short. When I plug a light into the circuit instead of the clutch ..... no fuses blow and everything works fine.

    I am blaming the replacement parts and chasing the seller for another replacement.

    I still would like to know the proper resistance of electromagnetic ring. The 2 or 3 ohms that I have on both rings (I initially thought it was zero) seems like a virtually non-existant load. :confuse:
  • cachercacher Posts: 1
    My dealer just suggested this when I went in for driveline service. He said it would cost $79.95.
    Does any one know what is the proceedure to flush the steering fluid myself?
  • bbrain44bbrain44 Posts: 3
    pentastar,
    I finally received my speed sensor from the autopartsstore.com. I just finished installing it (took about 20 minutes including the jackup and down)and my problem has been fixed. I don't know how long this sensor will hold up, but it sure beats paying the dealer $50 plus. I would suggest that anyone with a modicum of mechanical knowledge can replace this.
    Thanks everyone for the assist.

    George
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have replaced (flushed) my PS fluid several times. If you are not worried about using up a bit of fluid.... then it is VERY simple to do. Just suck the resivour empty and replace with fresh fluid .... then drive for a couple days and repeat. Just keep doing this until you are satisfied that you have diluted the old fluid with enough new fluid.

    Since I had a SPECIFIC problem that I was trying to fix (hard steering at -20F) I went a step further. First, I did the above until the fluid was almost water-clear.

    Then, I purchased RedLine PS fluid. I pulled off the return hose from the resivour and lowered into a bucket. Then turned the wheels lock-to-lock several times remove as much fluid as I could... then installed the RedLine fluid.

    The good news is that FOR THE 1st TIME EVER.... my Dakota will now steer when the outside temp. is below -15F.

    DONT FORGET THAT THE NEWER DAKS (2000 and above) HAVE A TSB ABOUT THE PS FLUID. SYNTHETIC FLUID IS RECOMMENDED.
This discussion has been closed.