Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions



  • It sounds like you need a major tune up...
  • You need to change your starter because those are the symptoms of a bad starter eventually it won't start anymore either that or check y our battery voltage.
  • Well it is a lot of miles but I had a 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport V6 with 255,000 miles it had a few leaks but it still ran good with no problems then I bought a 1997 Dodge dakota with 50,000 miles and it's giving me a lot of problems...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    This is an update on my 2000 Dak. With nearly 70K miles on it, the Rear axle pinion-seal started to leak. This happened durning the worst-possible time. I was on a 6hour round-trip to pick up a sofa for my daughter. The entire trip was on the interstate at highway speeds.

    Now the GOOD news -- Most of you may recall that I am running REDLINE lubricants in all the gearcases (front axle, rear axle, xfer case and manual tranny)
    The loss of lube in the rear-axle did NOT harm the expensive gears and bearings in any way.

    I have since replaced the seal and re-filled with REDLINE gear lube. I chatted with the REDLINE dealer when I purchesed the lube and told him the story about losing the gear-lube on a long trip with an load in the back. He mentioned that he has seen racecars running REDLINE in the rear-axle that have lost the fluid during the race... no damage to them either. REDLINE is so far superiour to most other lubricnats that it protects where other lubes cannot.

    I cannot say enough good things about REDLINE lubes ( ) Not only did they give me 3 -to- 4 MPG better fuel milage, they also saved me an expensive rebuild of my rear-axle.
  • Hi Dusty,

    Thanks for your reply, and for clarifying that the PCV valve doesn't have a dedicated sensor. No, I haven't checked for the presence of an active diagnostic code because I don't have the interface to do so (Dodge cleverly has kept that out of owners' hands in order to force us to dealerships). Wish that I did have the interface; I do have a Fluke meter.

    I also heard that discoonnecting the battery for a few minutes, and restarting should allow the on-board computer to reset. I believe I've tried this and the Check Engine light persisted.

    Any other thoughts/advice? :cry:
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    My 2001 4.7 auto Quad has a cold starting problem? When engine starts, rpms go to about
    2500 to 3000 rpms, there's a pinging sound and the throttle hunts up and down for a little until I put it in gear. After motor has warmed up, the problem doesn't return until truck
    has cooled down overnight. I have new plugs, cleaned the throttle body about 6 months ago. Has anyone else had this problem? I plan on taking it to the dealer.
    I suspect the TPS?
    My truck has just turned 60K miles, still on the orginal GY Eagle LS tires and brakes.
    I figure I'll need tires soon and I'll put the same tire back on.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Clean your throttlebody. (including the IAS - Intake Air Solenoid)

    I clean mine at least annually. It is easy to do and the idle quality is noticably improved.

    Also, look for an vacuum leak.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    Thanks, will try that first.
  • My 92 Dakota 3.9L V-6,120000 mi., auto w/OD hesitates then backfires through the intake when I accelerate while driving between 45-65mph. If i kick it down to increase RPM it goes.This doesn't happen constantly .Also the air vent doors close inside the cab(I can hear them shut) when I tramp on it.Code reads O2 system. Egr seems ok (I cleaned it) PCV good, fuel tank vent workingI'm lost,please help. Thanks,FIREDOME
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Actually, Chrysler's the only one that does allow you to see active codes.

    Starting with the ignition switch in the "off" position, rotate the ignition key as follows (do not go to the "start" position):


    Observe the oddometer's vacuum flouresent display and wait a few seconds. If you have an active code ("P" codes) they will be displayed in sequence. After all active codes are displayed the word "done" will be displayed.

    Best regards,
  • Dusty,

    Thanks for your post, and the news that I can in fact access the codes. The bad news is that your procedure didn't reveal the codes. A coworker found this clever site:

    which had a procedure that seemed to work:
    "To get the codes, put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number, then show the error codes starting with P."

    The display did not "go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number" but it did display two 3-digit numbers (one after the other):

    Unfortunately, neither of these codes is in the long list posted at the above link!!

    Have you any insight into '950' or '999' ?
    Do you have a better list of such codes?

  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    On the way home from work today, my blower stopped working on my 02 QC. It's only the lowest setting that failed. Looks like the blower resistor. I looked under the dash this evening and only saw two sets of wires around the blower motor - 2 wires going directly to the blower motor and five wires going into a large vertical connector on the plenum box. Is this vertical connector the blower resistor? Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Blower resistor is located inside the air plenum. (the airflow helps keep it cool because it can run cherry-red hot) The blower resistor has one wire more than the number of fanspeeds available on the switch.

    I beleive on your 2002, the blower-resistor is accessed from behind the glovbox.
  • I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota 4 wheel drive truck. I towed it behind my motorhome on my vacation. After visiting, I hooked it back up to my motorhome, but couldn't get it to stay in neutral so I could tow it again. I pushed the transfer button in, but it would not go into neutral. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! grannygrey
  • condensation water from a/c leaking into passenger side of cab . took it onto the dealership they said the air deflector was out of place all they did was reposition it. It still seems to be leaking.I think it is something inside the blower.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    When you performed the procedure that I described to you, did you get a "P done" in the oddomer display? If you did, there were no codes stored. When you perform this test the ignition switch transitions from on-to-off and off-to-on must be smooth and evenly timed in moderate succession. Going too fast or too slow will confuse the PCM logic. In addition, all doors should be closed and no other accessories or lights be operating.

    What you did perform is the Instrument Cluster test.

    The 950 code is "The instrument cluster is not receiving an ABS lamp-on message from the CAB." Basically, there is a problem in the anti-lock braking system and the "ABS" lamp is not illuminating, or the anti-lock brake controller (CAB) failed to give a self-test "ABS" lamp on signal when the engine was first started.

    The 999 code is "An error has been discovered." This is just a verification code that there's a problem. This was in effect generated by the 950 fault.

  • Bruce,

    glad all the gears and bearings are OK. Another solid testimonial for REDLINE.

  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    Replaced the blower resistor on my 02 QC today. It's held in the bottom of the plenum box by 2 - 8 mm hex head screws. You have to drop the lower air duct a little bit to gain access to the leftmost screw. The new blower resistor appears to be a much more durable design than the original one.
  • Hi Guys (and maybe gals) - I'm a reasonably competant amateur mechanic and replaced the front calipers on my 92 Dak. 4 wh dr- traded old ones when I got the new , used my old fairly new pads but the new ones drag on the inside of the rim pretty badly, took them back to the parts store and they gave me another set - looked the same, by now the old ones were gone. Seems like the outside of the caliper is cocked up a little so that the outer upper part of the caliper body drags on the rim - factory mags. Took them off and looked good to see if I screwed up but don't think so - I think the old ones had a bushing of some sort which fit over the stainless mounting bolts and inside the rubber bolt boot but the new calipers only had the bolt directly inside the rubber bushing - any ideas??? Thanks
  • gas gauge some times just goes to E and can go back up right away or a few minutes later or next day, and lights on display for headlight switch goe out too but at same time, have tapped on dash and dipsly lights for head lights witch come back on, prob a loose connection but both seem to happen at same time. anyone know if the gas gauge is wired thru the head light switch, just ordered a new switch to try on error fixing
This discussion has been closed.