Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

1…4546485051…87

Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Madcity, not sure what you are calling the "dash trim."

    If you are replacing the radio, I think you'll need to remove the Instrument Cluster Bezel. This is the molded, one-piece plastic item that covers the face of the instrument panel, including the speedomer/gauge cluster, heater control, radio, and dash vents.

    I believe your '99 has a different configuration instrument panel than my '03, but the instrument base should be very similar.

    1. Look for two screws just above the speedometer/gauges. If you have two screws there, remove them.

    2. Remove the steering column cover, or if you have tilt wheel, move the steering wheel to its lowest position.

    3. The instrument bezel should now be held in place by only molded-in clips. Using care, carefully begin prying the bezel away from the instrument panel housing from around the entire perimeter.

    4. After the bezel is completely free, begin removing the bezel away from the instrument housing from the right side. As you move the bezel away, you will expose more of the backside of the bezel and obtain enough space to reach over and disconnect various electrical connectors.

    5. Once all of the electrical connectors have been disconnected, tip the bezel toward the rear of the vehicle slightly and remove it.

    Never having done this to a '99, I hope this removal process is generic enough to work for you.

    Best of luck,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (spike50) I have been preaching this for years... (I guess you missed some sermons ;-) It is a good idea to "Let the smoke out" of the brakes once in a while. (every 6 months or so)

    You are not experiencing warped rotors... you are feeling the causes of NOT USED HEAVY ENOUGH rotors. Some areas of the rotors have 'slippery' or 'rough' spots. The heavy braking will 'burn off' residual oils and remove surface rust.

    I have one comment on how you performed this process. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP WHILE THE BRAKES ARE SMOKING HOT You are INVITING warped rotors by parking the vehicle while the brakes are smoking hot. This is because the portion of the rotor underneath the brake-pads will cool at a different rate than the rest of the rotor.

     Instead, continue to drive for 20 minutes or more (Not stop-go driving) to allow airflow to cool the brake components. Park only once you are convinced that the latent heat is removed from the brake components.

    Here in Vermont, there is a ski area 7 miles from my house. I just drive up to the base lodge then coast down using the brakes heavilly. To give you an idea how steep it is... I have to shift down to 3rd gear just to climb up to the base lodge! (Manual tranny)
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    bpeebles - It's easy to miss those kernels of truth in the 5,000+ posts in the Dakota forum over our last 3+ years. I'll more closely follow your procedure next time. After smoking the brakes, I was driving again in about 15 minutes. It appears that any warping, if it occurred, is not noticeable. I just have to work around the 4-wheel ABS to put the needed heat into those pads and front rotors.

    dustyk - I'm guilty as charged: 53 yr old retired guy, not driving much (or riding my old motorcycle), and central Pennsylvania is basically having a monsoon summer. Hell, the tomatoes won't even ripen from all the rain we're having. So, lots of moisture and probably rusty rotors that really need heated up more often so they perform as advertised.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I didn't do this in the way recommended by Bpeebles, but I just completed a 260 mile trip today, from Rochester, NY to the Corning, NY area, and back. When I got back I noticed that the brake pedal felt smoother and more glass like upon application. I just realized that I had burnt off some rust areas and whatever. Since this is the first "long trip" I've taken the Dakota on this year, I didn't realize that the rotors were starting to scuz up.

    Just like new now.

    Dusty
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    but the taste is somewhat lacking. Gosh, I sure do miss an Indiana grown tomato....just like maw and paw used to grow!
    hint: Lots of sawdust after the crop, tilled in, will make a nice acidic soil for next season.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    BTW.... There is a HUGE difference how warped rotors feel as compared to 'scuzzed up' rotors.

    Warped rotors are characterized by a definite 'throbbing' feel to the brake pedal accompanied by slight wiggling of the steering wheel back and forth while braking. It is VERY obvious when a rotor is warped.

    scuzzed up rotors may have a pulsing feeling to the vehicle when braking... but the brake pedal will not 'throb' under your foot. It is more a 'sense' that things are not right.

    As mentioned in previous appends... 'scuzzed up' rotors can often be renewed by some VERY heavy braking (to the point of smoking the brakes) followed by normal driving until everything cools back down again. If you live in a flat area where there are no hills... you can drive at highway speeds (no traffic behind you and straight roads) then use the brakes heavally (down to perhaps 40MPH) then accellerate back up to speed. Do this a few times to really heat up the brake components.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    dustyk - Many moons ago, we traveled all over the PA and NY sides of that line from Corning, east. Corning was the "home of the 88 cent six-pack of Genny" and the legal age was 18 to be a buyer. Fond memories - probably because I could have all of the fun and no responsibilities at the time.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Was that the Genny in the white cans, or Genny Cream Ale in the green? The green color for Genny Cream can or bottle was selected because that's was the color of your face the following day!

    Real beautiful country along the PA/NY border along there.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • glzr2glzr2 Member Posts: 70
    Hey guys,
    It's been 20k or so w/o a problem, but I have to jump in when the talk turns to Genny Cream Ale. My mother's side of the family is from North of Syracuse (my Grandmother lives on Oneida Lake) and every time I go out East, I have to pick up a case or three of Cream Ale. In fact, I will be taking the annual pilgrimage (duck hunting) to Oneida Lake on October 31.

    Unfortunately, this year my Eda ('02 QC 4.7 Sport Plus) will not be able to make the trip with me. The company that I work for is confiscating her so they can load her up with prototype cargo management/roof rack/running boards/tail gater system along with BBS wheels and Goodyear racing rubber, and they're shipping her off to the S.E.M.A. show in Las Vegas. Although I have to suffer through the trip out East with a Ford Escape (which will require much Genny), I can't wait to see how Eda looks when she's all tricked up.

    When she comes back, I have to perform the 40,000 mile maitenance, and thanks to you all, I can swap all the production fluids with the proper synthetics. I am still confused on the best spark plugs to use.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    ...Genny Cream Ale???!!! IRRC, we referred to it as "Green Death" in college. ;-)
  • mstanmstan Member Posts: 15
    I have a 97 Dakota that has started to develop a clunking sound from the front of the truck whenever I'm braking and just about at a complete stop. It's not a squeal as if it were the brakes, but it's more like a dull thud or clunking sound. It doesn't happen all the time, but it is starting to become more noticeable. Any thoughts on what it might be? Thanks in advance for any input.
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Does it feel like it's in the tranny? Wouldn't surpize me if the clunk was the tranny downshifting.
  • mstanmstan Member Posts: 15
    Not sure if it's the tranny. Again, the clunk seems to happen not when I hit the brakes, but after when I'm almost at a complete stop. It seems to be coming from the front of the truck. I thought maybe it could be something with the shocks or suspension (I've heard Dakotas are notorious for bad ball joints), but it could be the tranny - sometimes the sound seems like it's right in front of the cab.
  • bobs5bobs5 Member Posts: 557
    Mark,
    I had just brought my 2001 Quad Cab in for the 24k service interval.
    It also had a "thump" kind of a sound after coming to a complete stop, sometimes when just driving along and going over minor bumps in the road.

    They replaced the right upper control arm.

    Nice and quiet now.
    Good luck
    Bob
  • madcityrussmadcityruss Member Posts: 40
    Dusty, thanks for guidance on removing this piece. As it turned out, there were no screws to remove, just careful prying by hand. Upgraded from AM/FM cassette to AM/FM CD in a matter of minutes. Sounds great even with stock speakers! The CD head units are all over Ebay for anyone contemplating this upgrade.
  • madcityrussmadcityruss Member Posts: 40
    Anyone know a good source for the bed extender accessory at a reasonable (read cheap!) price. I've not been able to do better than $210.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Everything is Ok. As mentioned before, the Red-Line dealer recommended adding 4 oz of their friction-modifier (f-m) when I changed the 3.55 LSD rear's oil. As bpeebles pointed out before, Red-Line's 75-90W, that I used, already contained the additive. Again, I purchased a bottle ($5) anyway since it's a 60+ mile round trip. Just in case.

    After 2,000+ miles on the new oil, I was still getting enough "inside wheel" spin when pulling away from stop signs to make me want to add the friction-modifier. I started by siphoning off and saving about 8 oz to make room. The oil had already become "sooty" from the clutch plate dust. I added the f-m and then all of the saved oil plus a little bit more. In total, I needed about 5 oz (4 oz f-m & 1 oz 75-90W) to achieve the proper level. When I initially changed the oil, ambient temperatures were 90+ degrees F. I'm now going to recheck the transmission and x-fer case for their proper levels since the weather is cooler. Kind of amasing that either the rear's volume changed or that the oil itself expands and contracts that much due to the temperatures. Remember, I rechecked and insured that the levels were proper a week or so after the initial change over.

    Anyway, the additional f-m hasn't made much of a difference, if at all. The inside wheel still wants to rotate a bit faster than it needs to but again everything seems to be fine.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Viscous materials generally do expand with increasing temperatures, ATF and gear lubricants especially.

    Unless I have some weight in my 2003 Club Cab, I too will get inside wheel spin if I tickle the throttle pedal a little. I think you'll find that this is part of the design. I suspect that Chrysler's LSDs are using a little stronger clutch plate pressures nowadays. This will ensure dual-wheel traction on more slippery surfaces.

    Some of the older designs didn't quite have that much clutch plate pressure and if you're like me and have owned older vehicles with "Sure Grip," Posi-traction," or whatever,you are probably noticing the difference.

    When I changed mine a little while ago, I flushed the differential components and entire housing out to remove as much of the clutch soot as possible. I've since checked mine and I currently see no evidence of any soot, but finding it is very normal. I suspect the next time I change it I will again find the sooty residue, but I suspect it will be less.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (spike50) You may be confused about what the "friction modifier" is supposed to do for you. It is actually supposed to keep the clutch cones from 'chattering'.... not make them 'grab' more.

    In any case, are you SURE you have an LSD rear end? I find it almost impossible to spin one wheel (unless it is on ice while the other is not)
    More often, both rear wheels will break loose on pavement and the ENTIRE REAR END of the truck will begin to go sideways. This is the 'nature' of LSD operation. With an open differential, you may get one wheel to spin but the rear of the vehicle will not go sideways on you because the other wheel is "tracking" in a straight line.

    Keep in mind that "spinning" one wheel with an LSD will quickly destroy the clutch cones within the pumpkin. It would be akin to revving the engine and slipping the clutch until it smoked.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Yep, I have a 3.55 LSD. What I'm experiencing in slow tight turns (leaving a stop sign) is that the inside wheel wants to turn at "almost" the same speed to cover the same distance as the outside. I wanted to add the friction modifier (f-m) to increase the slippage within the clutch pack to reduce this. Maybe I wrongly assumed that f-m would increase slippage. The additive felt very slippery.

    As noted previously, I have not experience a gain or loss of inside wheel spin since adding the f-m. $5 for nothing, I guess.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I understand now... It is I that mis-understood what you were experiencing.

    you are seeing just what you should expect with LSD. Sharp turns at slow speeds causes the instide tire to try to pull forward and slip a bit.

    Drive and be happy ;-)
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    I've got a '01 quad 4wd 4.7. I had the check engine light come on this week. I hoped it was the gas cap but found it tight. I took it to the dealer and for $85 they told me the cap had rusted and wasn't working properly. Must be some metal hidden in that plastic cap somewhere. So, If you are getting that code, you may want to invest $6 in a new cap before the dealer trip. Kind of sad that it is less than 3 years old and it would rust out. Another thing to check is your vacuum hoses around the intake. My engine was hissing a while back and I found one of the hoses cracked in half with signs for further cracks along the hose. Interestingly, that leak didn't cause any idiot lights to go on.
  • jimtjimt Member Posts: 56
    I'm planning to service transfer case and can't find source for plus4 fluid other than dealer. I am attempting to avoid patronizing my dealer! Napa,Pep Boys, have plus 3 only. Thanks, JimT
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Amsoil and Redline do make a ATF+4s, but I am afraid I know of no local sources. You might try locating a dealer on their web sites.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Three time in the last 3 months, the check engine light (code 0455) has come on and each time I check the gas cap it's tight. I either wait for the light to reset (after 15 or so starts), or I just pull the battery cable off for a minute and the check engine light goes away. I will try a new gas cap to see if that fixes my problem as well.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    "P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak) "

    There are some vapor return line hoses that go to the top of the fuel tank that have been reported to have split and caused the same thing, I believe.

    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (ferous) Did you know that every time you pull the battery cable, the onboard computers lose ALL of their memorized settings?

    Sure, you can clear a troublecode like that....
    But you also lose all of the multitude of other settings such as:
     How to idle under various conditions
     How to start at various conditions
     How to produce the best MPG
     How to produce the most power
     How/when to shift (automatic tranny)

    Do not forget that the onboard computers LEARN as you drive and pulling the battery cable makes them 'stupid'. It may take WEEKS to relearn stuff. (even months for adverse conditions such as cold-weather running.)

    For the P0455 code, the shop manual describes how this gets reset. All it takes is a specific number of complete "trips" withour a failure. (a "trip" has a definition with a starting enging temp, run time, and ending engine temp. )
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    Had this problem last year, hoses where leaking at the gas tank
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    "Did you know that every time you pull the battery cable, the onboard computers lose ALL of their memorized settings?" (bpeebles)
    I don't necessarily know that is a true statement. I have been experimenting with upgrading the overhead display on my "Monster Quad" The one delivered on the Ram 1500 SLT gives you average miles per gallon, timer and distance traveled functions (called an OTIS) display. The Laramie models are supposed to have an EVIC unit that has greater capabilities as well as programming onboard options and a 3 channel homelink transmitter for garage doors etc. To change these units you have to pull the battery negative lead. I have done this several times trying different units and have had the negative lead off for upwards of 30 minutes or so. When I power back up I find I have lost all my radio presets however the average mpg, timer and miles traveled are always retained and reflect the last figure displayed prior to removing the negative lead. Based on this I suspect the data in the body control computer (BCM) does not get cleared, at least in the case of my 2003 Ram 1500. Rick
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Of course the "miles driven" will not be lost. This is part of the odometer readings. That is stored in NONvolitle memory.

    Disconneting the battery cable is commonly used by folks that PUROSLY want to reset the computer because it is running or shifting oddly. (If a vehicle is 'shared' by an aggressive driver and and a passive driver... the computer can get REALLY confused about how to shift properly)
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    reminds me of the 45RFE adaptive drive trans. I was the only driver and it flunked its shift patterns big time!
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    I just had the dealer do a tranny flush with ATF4 on my '01 4.7 auto quad. It was a little over due at 42K. I may be imagining it, but it seems to shift smoother now than it did before. It always felt like i had a shift kit in it before and it would slam into gear, especially when accellerating hard. I kind of liked that feeling because it rekindled my high school hot rod memories. Back then, even my Mom's car had more horse power than you can get in most vehicles today. I also just noticed some water drippng out of my muffler when parked with the nose facing up hill. Not quite 3 years and looks like there must it must be rusting through. Buffalo winters aren't kind to metal along with my short trip driving.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    2ndDak,

    By its very nature, ATF is prone to oxidation at a rate much faster than other petroleum-based lubricants/hydraulic fluids. A complete re-fresh of ATF in the transmission will likely make a noticeable difference to the person that drives the vehicle every day.

    In the case of your '01 Dakota, I wonder if you are also noticing the difference between ATF+3 that might have come with your '01 from the factory. I do not know exactly when ATF+4 was introduced, but I think in 2001 ATF+3 was the latest version available, or ATF+4 was introduced in that year.

    The major difference between ATF+4 and previous versions is that ATF+4 is a synthetic blend. The additive package has been significantly modified to broaden the temperature range by extending the pour-point and low temperature pumpability characteristics, typically from -35F to -60F. ATF+4 is listed as a High Friction Modified (HFM) fluid that reduces clutch face wear and subsequent shudder.

    ATF+4 is currently the highest rated ATF classification on the market and I'm being told that it is increasingly being used by independent transmission shops in lieu of Mercon and Dextron.

    Dusty
  • jhorljhorl Member Posts: 89
    There is a weep hole on the bottom of the muffler, I believe in the rear. It is designed to drain the condensation out of the muffler to help prevent internal rusting. I also get it.
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    Yeah Dusty, I was thinking the difference is because of the properties of ATF 4 vs 3, I'm curious to see if it changes my MPG at all. Glad to hear there is a weep hole in the muffler, I was thinking it was rusting out already.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My 2003 Dakota has a stainless steel exhaust system. I am not sure when Dakotas got that, but yours should have one I believe.

    Dusty
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    My 2002 QC supposedly has a stainless steel exhaust. But after 2 NY winters, it is getting rusty. My aluminized Dynomax muffler has less rust on it after one winter then the original stainless steel muffler did after one winter.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I have to chime in on this subject.

    My original cheep stainless steel (SS) exhaust is rusting in the back yard (awaiting disposal at the approprate metal-recycle place) The muffler has a hole in it... SURPRISE: only the PIPES are SS!

    The bottom line is that there are different kinds of SS. My current BORLA exhaust system is made of aircraft-quality T-304 stainless steel -- stainless inside and out. T-304 stainless steel has the highest chromium content, making it the most resistant to corrosion and therefore the most desirable material for a long-lasting exhaust system.

    I bought this BORLA system used and it looked as shiny as kitchen silverware. Now, after 2 winters of my use ... it is STILL just as shiny. It has a 1 MILLION MILE WARANTEE.... which means that it will NEVER wear out.

    I am planning on runnin my Dak for at leat 12 years... and this BORLA will pay for itself in the end. Thru experience, I know that anything less than T304 SS would need replacing every 3-5 years.

    Approxamate exhaust life expectancy in Vermont.
    Mild steel = 1winter
    aluminized mild steel = 2winters
    cheep SS = 4 winters
    T304 SS = FOREVER!
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    From time to time, I see Dakotas with dual pipes but they exit behind each rear wheel, not out the back. My casual web searches have been unsuccessful in locating the manufacturer. I saw that Gibson has a system but it's not for my Dakota ('00 4WD Quad) if any.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    spike50. I had a Nissan 4x4 pickup back in the 80s. I put a custom exhaust system on it that ran out the rear. The pipe ran within 1 1/2 inches of the spare tire. After about 2 years I needed to use the spare and found the heat had dried out the rubber in about an 8 square inch area and ruined the tire. This was a single exhaust so it probably ran a little hotter than duals would but I'd keep in mind clearances around the spare if you do decide to go that route. Rick
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Those are CUSTOM-BENT exhaust syetems that usually require perminant REMOVAL of the spare tire.

    http://www.geocities.com/maldbnsf/Dualback.html

    Do not forget that a properly-sized SINGLE pipe will produce more power than DUAL pipes. Besides, a TRUE dual exhaust on a Dakota is illegal. (removal of main cat is not allowed.) Splitting after the single main cat adds more weight and reduces exhaust velocity.

    Are you looking for power, looks, or sound from your exhaust system?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I don't think the visible rust on the outside is going to mean the system is near death. My wife's 1989 Plymouth Acclaim had a stainless system and that car went 11 years and 140,000 miles in New York winters on the original factory system. It had a solid coating of rust on it after two years.

    A neighbor has a '97 Dakota that's still original.

    I might be mistaken, but I thought the complete exhaust system on my '03 Dakota is stainless.

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    I had a '87 Dakota that had a stainless system from the factory and it was replaced in 3 years because it rusted out. That was in Syracuse, NY. Plenty of salt form November til April. Hopefully the systems have improved since then. My fingers are crossed that the water draining from my muffler is indeed from a planned weep hole.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    At this point, I'm just looking in anticipation to eventually needing to replace the existing system once it fails, which might be years from now. I'm just looking at store-bought systems, nothing custom and not touching the single Cat. If I'm replacing it, I would like one with some more sound, outside of the cab, (certain GM vehicle exhausts have an appealing tone). I'll have to investigate the potential benefits of their stainless offering (ss type) versus the cost differential.

    I've really only done internet searches on the possibilities. I've seen the footnotes about limiting the spare tire size for certain systems but nothing on eliminating a spare altogether. Thanks for bringing up the specter of spare tire heat damage. The local Gibson vendor pushed the single pipe system as the most trouble-free installation, which is an understandable position for them to take.

    bpeebles - Is the picture a Custom-Bend system? The one Dak I did see with dual side exiting tips was a lowered 2WD and that made it hard to see if the spare was removed.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Member Posts: 145
    In anticipation of installing dual split rear exhaust on my '01 CC I have been doing some research. The restriction on the size of the spare seems to be because it is not mounted in the center of the frame. There are about eight inches of clearance on the right side between the tire and the spring and only three inches on the left. I have the 16" spare tire and there are 2.25 inches of clearance between the tire and the stock tailpipe. I'm hoping that I can shift the spare mount enough to get 2.25 inch tailpipes on each side without frying the tire. If the spare cannot be repositioned I'll have to settle for side exit. I can't see carrying the spare around in the bed. I am not too concerned about the materials for the exhaust. There is not a lot of salt spread on the roads in the winter here in Miami. 8-)
                                 Dick
  • 2nddak2nddak Member Posts: 44
    After too many miles of thumping font brakes when I stop, I've decided I'd better replace them before the snow hits the ground. Is there any thing to look out for with the job? I've read that the old rotors tend to be rusted on. Has anyone had success with applying penetrating oil the night before? Also do the pucks simply compress back into the calipers or are they the type that screw in? Any other heads up that you all can provide me would be much appreciated.

    One last question, do those of you who have switched to power slot rotors and ceramic pads feel that the the improvements you have, justified the extra expense.

    I almost forgot shocks. I've seen a few names mentioned over the boards, any feed back on those used.

    Thanks in advanced for all your great answers.

    Kevin
  • haselhasel Member Posts: 64
    Use the Brembo Rotors$50.00 eack at the Tire Rack, I tried the Ceramic Linings They started to fail after 10000 miles (seperating from baking plate)reused my OEM pads and have great brakes using the Brembo Rotors, unless plated all rotors Rust this does not hurt anything.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    rotor is far better than the crap OEM made in mexico rotors.
    I had four sets in 28K and had I kept the truck, I would have gone powerslot or something else.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    ...in general, can be a risky proposition. Although we got 40K+ miles out of the factory rotors on our Avalon, the replacements didn't go 20K. I have had the same results over the past with just about any vehicle I've owned.

    I think you will find that the newer rotors on Dakotas are much better than they were a few years ago, but I don't think you will realize a big price difference between new, over-the-counter Chrysler and new somebody speciality units.

    At 16K miles the rotors and pads on my Club Cab are doing exceptionally well. I do build up a scuz layer of rust every couple of weeks, but someone in here, I think, suggested to hit the brakes hard once and a while and that seems to be working in my case. I just put on 300 miles over the weekend and the 240 or better interstate miles seem to have polished the rotors nicely.

    I seem to recall that PowerSlots were about $160 a piece. There are a few people that have used them and have had excellent results with them.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • sunburnsunburn Member Posts: 319
    My 02 QC just turned 35K miles. So, I'm down to the last 1K of warranty with a few unresolved problems still on the list; 1) front end popping noises when making sharp turns, 2) high-pitched squeal after starting in cold weather, and 3) weak start (barely turns over). All of the problems have been reported to my dealer, but are intermittent and don't repeat for the techs, so no fixes have been offered. At this point I'm about to leave it at the dealer until they repeat and they manage to fix them.

    On the good side, the new rear end seems to be doing fine. They pretty much replaced everything but the outer axle bearings, pinion bearing, and LSD unit. Just had the reaf diff drained and refilled with Redline 75W-140. The dealer only charged me $30 labor to do it.

    Everything else seems to be doing fine.

    Just for grins, today I priced out a 04 QC with the same options my 02 has. The MSRP was over $30K. My 02 was barely $28K. Ouch!
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles