Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

2456758

Comments

  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    I looked at the Durango and they have color coded body side molding. It appears to have the color encasulated in clear plastic bonded to the black rubber molding. The front doors should be the same size as the Durango. The back doors are pretty close. If not close enough, you could order 4 front door molding and trim for the rear doors.

    I have the two tone (silver rocker panels) paint scheme. The black molding is not what I want.
  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    In one of the older DAK topics someone mentioned that under the rear passenger side of the spare tire is a "Y" in the wiring harness. There is a single wire pigtale with a label "CHMSL" (Center High Mounted Stop Lamp??). They were going to test and confirm but never seemed to get back to the topic.

    Can anyone with the Big Orange Book confirm or deny that this pigtail is prewired for the center mount brake light? I am having a bed cap installed this week and they want to splice into the tail lights. I to have this pigtail and it seems like this would be a much easier and better choice. Could Dodge possibly have foreseen this need and prewired for a Cyclops break light?
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    On the Quad the pigtail is tucked up between the spare and the bumper on the passenger side. It is labled CHMSL. I had a Leer topper put on my Quad and they used the pigtail. They were going to splice into the lights for the topper dome light. I would not let them hook it up. I'm going to tap into the 7 wire connector for the trailer hookup ( I have the trailer tow package) there is a 12 volt source with a 40amp fuse that will work just fine for me. Rick
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    PS, I was told by the topper installer that most trucks made since 93 have a pigtail for the third light from the factory.
  • 99slt99slt Posts: 14
    I'm looking for heavy vinyl bed-rail guards. Mopar makes a checker-plate chrome guard, but I'm looking for one similar to those made by FFFFFFFord (just can't say that word). Also looking for a ladder rack (side mounted) not one that goes over the the whole bed. Does any have any experience with either of these two after market items? Thanks in advance.
  • quark99quark99 Posts: 136
    My dealer quoted me $48 apiece for the color-matched molding strips, thats $200 for all four for the Quad, ouch...
    (that's after the 10% DC owner discount, regularly $53 apiece) It seems rather steep...and
    I thought the $30 for the 4 sill protectors was expensive....guess I'm looking for some aftermarket stuff, too..
  • vmanvman Posts: 103
    I went to an auto paint supply store. The top aftermarket moulding manufacturer seems to be Pro Stripe. The guy let me take his sample book out to the parking lot to compare with the truck. The book actually had a Dodge section that seemed to match OEM styles pretty well. I have a sport, so black was the ticket, but for $45, there was enough material to do both sides front to back. Just thought I'd toss that in if it will help.

    BTW, for sport owners, the Pro Stripe M-104 ties in beautifully with the black section of the rear bumper.
  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    Thanks for the confirmation about the CHMSL pigtail. I will make sure the bed cap installer knows about it. They offered a 12 volt light and they were going to steal power from the brake lights. I did not like the idea of that.

    I also had a sinking feeling that someone would inadvertantly leave the light on in the bed and drain the battery. I asked if the installer would tie into the bed light mounted on the cab so that I could control the light from inside the cab. He responded "Why would you want to turn the light on from inside the cab when you will be looking in the bed?" 1) I have a rear sliding window so the kids can reach into the bed from inside the cab while riding to get stuff. 2)So that it is part of the vehicle lighting system that turns itself off automagically after 15 minutes so I don't drain the battery. 3)Because I am the customer and that is what I want. Anyway the installer refused on the grounds it was too complicated for them to figure out.

    Instead I ordered the cap with two battery lights. One center rear, one center forward. Basically a flashlight screwed to the roof of the cap. One for access from the rear sliding window and one for access from the tailgate. I anticipate using up a few batteries when one gets left on by accident but at least the vehicle will start. Hey, that is why Sam's sells batteries in 12 packs.
  • vmanvman Posts: 103
    Hmmmm.... Some of those touch lite things might do well for that application.


    Accessory Review:

    I just installed the BAK rail caps. Nice product, but I'm a little disappointed with the final appearance. There is some variation in mine that makes one side seem shorter than the other. Starting from the back during installation, there's no way to adjust this. Also, the lines (when looking down the outside of the bed) are somewhat crooked and seem to drop towards the rear. Not a huge problem, just annoying. My truck had a dealer installed pin stripe and the caps visually throw the lines off a little.
  • tjumptjump Posts: 14
    Last week I received and installed the rack on my Quad Cab. The basic rack is composed of a pair of rails that mount on the bed-rails. The rack comes in two forms, one that mounts with bolts vertical through the top of the bed rails, and one that mounts with bolts horizontal through the inside lip of the bed rails (I have the latter). While the adverts & online catalog (at www.rackwarehouse.com) do not have this length shown, the rack rails come pre-made in a length specifically for the Quad Cab and require no preparation on the owner's part prior to installation. The rack rails are made of aluminum, coated in black (electrolytically I think, it is NOT paint). The inside lip nearly covers the inside lip of the bed rail, providing it good protection IMHO from stuff carried in the bed. Mounting the rails after my Mopar drop-in under-rail bed cover was installed was no problem. The kit THEORETICALLY comes with all mounting hardware (stainless steel bolts and nylock-insert locking nuts) and a single-sheet of instructions - I say theoretically because rackwarehouse actually omitted them from my package - they are sending me a kit however, after the fact as it is. I just ran out to Lowes and bought some appropriate hardware because I needed to get the rack on the truck. The package that I received additionally came with Yakima bicycle rack components (locking RailRider towers, cross-bars, and Boa bike mounts).

    Mounting is simple: place the rack rail on the side of the bed, hold it in place, drill pilot holes with a 1/8" bit, and then final holes with a 1/4" bit. Once the holes are drilled, bolt the rack rail to the truck bed and that is it. Repeat for other rail. I do not know if the hardware kit comes with any "friction tape" or equivalent, but in my personal paranoia I did not want the possibility of vibration between the rails and the truck bed, so I put some neoprene washers between the rails and the truck (fixed to the rails with Goop adhesive). This will have the additional advantage of allowing any water that gets between the rails and the truck to more easily evaporate.

    Once the rack rails are installed, putting the Yakima RailRider towers on and the rest of the bicycle rack hardware was dead-simple (much easier than clamp-on Yakima roof rack that I've been using on my Honda for the last five years). With the Yakima lock-cores installed, I now have the capability of completing locking the bikes attached to the truck. Good "keep honest people honest" security.

    The rack looks good, particularly with the over-the-top bed-front and tailgate portions of the Mopar cover, and is doing a good job of protecting the sides rails of the bed, both inner lip and top. The width of the rack will easily accomodate three forward facing mountain bikes, five or six if interleaved forward-backward. With both Yakima rails used to support the bikes front and back, everything would be elevated above the bed rails, leaving the truck bed for other cargo.

    After using this for two weeks I am very happy with the configuration from all three sides (strength, security, and looks).

    I am only "middling" impressed with RackWarehouse. The took almost two weeks to get the stuff to me via UPS (they are in N.H., I am in Texas), they forgot the mounting hardware & instructions - but faxed the instructions to me when asked and are sending me the hardware. Their prices were good, hopefully the lack that I experienced was an anomoly.

    Cheers,
    -Ted
  • jones27jones27 Posts: 42
    I also installed a bike rack, but with no extra drilling. I installed a Rhode Gear rear hitch bike rack that slides into a standard 2" hitch receiver and tightens up with the twirl of a lever. It takes 30 seconds to install and remove. Mount the bikes and secure with straps. The rack also has a locking bar for security. This rack enabled me to use the entire bed of truck for other things.

    I transported two bikes 500 miles and back again during my vacation. Have used other bike racks in the past, including racks that mount inside a truck bed and I have to say......this is the best I ever used!
  • tjumptjump Posts: 14
    I thought about the hitch-mounted rack for a while, but decided against it because of planned events in a year or so which would require the hitch + racking capabilities.

    I also prefer to leave the back end of the vehicle clear of equipment I care about in case some idiot decides that their vehicle wants to try to merge with mine. Paranoid? A little. Would insurance cover the bikes? Probably. Do I want to go w/o my MTB for a couple weeks to find out? Definitely NOT. ;^)

    BTW: The rack, when properly used, completely elevates the bikes above the top of the bed rails. While this does impose some limitations on the height of stuff in the bed, this does leave the bed completely empty and the back of the vehicle completely unemcumbered.

    The hitch-mount racks are cool though, nice and easy to take off when not in use.
  • guannerguanner Posts: 31
    Bike racks.. You might want to check with your insurance co. to see if they cover your bikes fully if you get rearended. mine said no, so we got the yakamia rack for the honda few years back. it has sence made its way to the top of the Quad.. Just some thing to check into..

    Scott
  • david150david150 Posts: 5
    New Pendaliner went in last Saturday. Camein handy for several loads. Thanks for all the suggestions.
  • themacguythemacguy Posts: 416
    That's a GREAT point. I forget about that kind of thing all the time. Trailers are another area to look into, and guess what? Same thing... My ins. co. will replace everything in or on my trailer when it's attacked or injured by another vehicle or if I hit another object (with comprehensive). BUT anything stolen out of or off of the trailer at any time is not covered UNLESS the trailer is padlocked to the truck and the stuff stolen is padlockled to the trailer. Weird.
  • 99slt99slt Posts: 14
    Thanks for the info on the BAK Liner website. The "ProCaps" are just what I was looking for. The literature says they are paintable. I'll check it out and advise.
  • haasmanhaasman Posts: 5
    As of 7/21/00 the SUN TACH 2 will not work with this engine. I tried and got erroneous needle readings. Talked to the manufacturer an he said that they are 2 years behind of what's on market. He suggested AUTOMETER but I haven't seen one to work with this application. haasman
  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    If you put a cap on the bed, think real hard about including WinDoors.

    I had an A.R.E. CH (Cab Height) cap installed on the bed two weeks ago. I paid for a few upgrades when ordering. Two interior battery operated interior lights (BOIL), Light Grey Carpeting (Platinum Floss), sliding rear window, and 2 Windoors.

    WinDoors are ARE's term for side windows that open like the rear entry. They have two T-handles with keyed locks. The window is hinged at the top and opens upward with assistance from two gas shocks. Approximately 12 inches high by 48 inches long.

    The cap was installed Tuesday afternoon and I took the Quad for a road trip Friday morning. 1800 miles round trip from Raleigh North Carolina to Upstate New York. Loading and unloading was so easy since I could reach all the way to the front of the bed from either side via access of the WinDoors. They give me access to the entire bed with no crawling in. Well worth the $100 per window.

    They may not look quite as sexy as some of the other styles but they sure are useful. Function over form.

    For comparison, here is what they quoted.

    ARE CH cap $895
    Rear sliding window $50
    Battery Light $10 each
    Carpeting (Floss) $115
    WinDoors $100 each
    Rear Brake Light $30
    Upgraded foam gasket $25

    As mentioned in another post, I happened to speak to the owner on the phone when calling around for price quotes. Mentioned I was shopping price. He quoted much lower prices than when I went in and talked to salesperson. Got him on the phone and he honored his phone quote.

    Salesperson wrote up the ticket and prices changed to:

    ARE CH cap $895
    Rear sliding window Free
    Battery Light $10 each
    Carpeting (Floss) $115
    WinDoors $75 each
    Rear Brake Light Free
    Upgraded foam gasket $25

    Handy Andy's of Garner, North Carolina did a fine job of installing the cap. Wiring for the third brake light included inline fuses for both the ground and the hot. Very neat and tidy. They also changed out the locks so that all 5 were the same (the rear lock was different from the side locks when delivered).

    The battery lights are pretty lame but useful at night. The carpeting really finishes off the inside of the cap. Looks like a custom headliner. Cap installer said some people get fiberglass splinters that don't have the carpeting.

    ARE did a nice job of making the cap fit the body styling including a little wave near the where the bed meets the cab. Follows way the bed wraps around the cab. Overall I am pleased with the result.
  • bsparxbsparx Posts: 84
    I've got the leer 100 cap on my quad, with the sliding windows. Wish I'd spent the $$ for their version of the ARE 'windoors' they would make life easier. Bought the quad after several full-size Fords, though, so I'm even more used to scrambling up into the back, and used to reaching even farther inside to rescue the apple or dog toy which rolled up to the front...

    On racks, I put the small raingutter-like pieces on the sides of the shell, but I haven't tried tha canoe yet, because of the hang over the cab. Anyone else dealt with this yet? I have some Thules also, from Ford Exploder days, I'm hoping they come up with a fit. On the exploder, the system was rather ingenious, instead of clipping over (and squishing) the weatherstripping like the Yakima, they provided a screw and a small 3" wide clip. You were to drill out one of the weatherstripping rivets, install the clip behind the weatherstripping, where it was designed to be a perfect fit against the frame (it was) and then screw the weatherstrip back into the same hole, through the clip also. The foot then, sat on the edge of the roof but pulled against the clip...worked very well, strong as could be, and no leaks in the 5 years they were on that vehicle. I think the same would work for the DD QC.

    Anybody ever had one of Cabela's truck back tents? In my old trucks, sleeping in the back after a long hike or before early morning waterfowling was no problem, as the beds were 6.5 or 8 feet. In the quad, however... At www.cabelas.com you can follow the prompts to:

    Location: Storefront : Automotive/ATV : Vehicle Accessories : Exterior Vehicle Accessories : Camper Top Tent

    and see what I'm talking about. It looks good, but I'd be more confident if I heard from someone who's used one...

    Thanks

    Ben
  • newquadnewquad Posts: 33
    Thanks for the info on the windoors. I have been waiting around to get my cap, just trying to figure out the best combination. I am going to get the ARE cap, just not sure which one. Thing is, I carry two German Shepherds in crates in my truck right now. I have to turn them sideways next to each other to fit. I was thinking of getting a windoor on one side of the cap, and a sliding window for ventilation on the other. Two windoors would give them no ventilation while traveling, so I don't want to do them both. But one windoor would be great, so I can have easy access to the crates to move them around, and also for better ventilation once stopped. I compete with my dogs, so they spend 8 hrs or so in and out of the crates on a weekend day. So,what do you think? Would it look OK to have one windoor only??
This discussion has been closed.