Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

towcrazy2

WANT1 -- Would have posted this as "hidden," but couldn't figure out how to do it!

Just a quick "amen" on your perspective of the cat-back tests... MPH is relatively meaningless. Gains (hp AND torque) within specific RPM bands (in whatever gear) hold some water. And a nod of agreement that a COMPLETE install (header-to-tailpipe) is the only way to go for the max... Too bad about that Catastrophic Converter... Takes all the fun out of it!!!

bigal31

I brought it up only to pass on info..I thought that what these boards were for. It was simply from Petersens 4 wheel and off road Mag. A very good Mag. at that. There doesn't seem to be a lot of other POSTS on this subject. As I said take this for what it's worth and make up your own mind! Go out and buy one...I am going to hold out for more information on this topic.

When I do maybe I should keep it to myself...AMEN..


Allen-

towcrazy2

Allen -- Just a few points I'm compelled to pass on.

FIRST and FOREMOST... I for one THANK you for passing along the Peterson numbers. And while I questioned the test methodology, in NO WAY was that a reflection on you (REMEMBER! I'M the guy who fumbled with the freakin' light bar!!).

The fact is, if all of us participating in this forum were in total agreement on everything, what a boring place it would be!!!

SECOND -- Friendly debates aside, I've gained a LOT from hanging around the QC boards... It's clear that we're all pretty attached to these infernal trucks! Our tastes and priorities may differ... But ultimately, I'm convinced that the board accomplishes what a good one SHOULD: Making the ownership experience more satisfying for all.

FINALLY -- Does anyone have any experiences/opinions relative to auxiliary drivng lights? I'm in a quandary... Stuck between whether I should plunk the $200 down on a set of Ion Crystal Fogs or go with Super-White Driving units. It's that time of the year here in Michigan... Dead deer scattered along the secondary roadsides. Not sure whether the additional peripheral visibility with the fogs would be better than long-range with the driving units, or vice-versa... Any input would be appreciated!

bigal31

My thought was "don't shoot the messenger" that's all.

I'd love to see some insightful post from others on this subject.

Want1bad: More tests results, do tell..Maybe You know something that Petersen's and I don't. What do you have?? Have you thrown your rig up on the dyno? I thought not. Until you or someone else does..Well maybe you get the point.

Allen-

towcrazy2

ALLEN -- No "shooters" here (unless of course you're buying the JD!!)... Let's face it... We're ALL messengers!!

RECEIVER TIP -- A quick thought for those out there who are constantly slipping a hitch bar in and out of the receiver, and dislike the looks of the receiver all crudded and rusted... But who are as lazy as I am when it comes to "details"...

Some steel wool, a bottle of rust converter ("Extend" or similar) and a can of rubberized rustproofing can take care of the situation for about 5 years (as it did on my Ram). When the black parts are sufficiently ugly, wash & steel wool them, schlepp some paint thinner or other degreaser in there, dry it, then swab on a coating of converter (I use old, soft toothbrushes).

Let the converter dry, slide a piece of paper in between the receiver and bumper as a mask, then spritz on a light coat of the undercoating. If you want to go "show quality," do the same to the hitch bar. It looks good, you don't have the usual metal-on-metal rust problem, and the treatment can be repeated at least 4-5 times before any serious paint/rust stripping is required.

96g11

I just finished a 3" body lift from Performance Accessories. The job took about 6 hours for me. My quad is a 2x4 and I just wanted a taller stance. I must say I am impressed. I was able to use 32x11.5 pathfinder atr tires on the stock rims. I love the look! The only glitch was that I needed to lenghen the lower radiator hose. Luckily I had a scrap piece of aluminum tubing and some hose clamps handy. I was impressed with the quality of the Performance Accessories kit.

ohc_baby

I've been looking for a body lift for my 4x2 also, and would love some pictures of yours, if possible. My biggest problem so far with the new Quad has been locating parts for the exterior, with the new Silver paint. Has anyone with a Silver truck been able to order fender flares yet? If so, I need a part number desperately and maybe a dealership name. The flares and bed extender are gonna be a big chunk of change, so it's worth ordering from a cheap dealership and shipping it. Thanks for any help.

towcrazy2

Any chance you could post a photo of your QC with the lift kit installed? I've been "toying" with the idea of a kit, though for the moment, I'm inclined to wait until they come up with a somewhat milder 2-inch kit.

andy_jordan

towcrazy, personally I would go for the distance, but that is because I am frequently where there is nothing else around, whether that be rural roads or no road. If there is traffic around fairly often then you obviously won't be able to get the full benefit of the driving lights and may be better off with fogs.

If you go with long range lights take time to get used to them. It sounds stupid but it is very easy to drive way too fast when you have good long range visibility at night.

Course as I have a brush guard I can have both :-)

resqman

Fella here at work had an R/T. He mentioned that someone stole the spare tire while it was parked in his driveway. $700 for rim and tire. He filed an insurance claim and got a replacement set.

Mopar has a Spare tire lock kit which consists of a replacement part for the truck and replacement part for the jack kit. You lower the spare, pull a retaining pin, remove a metal tube, insert new metal tube, replace retaining pin, raise spare tire. The replacment tube has a star shaped key end, much like locking lug nuts, and a corresponding keyed tube that mates up which is part of the jack kit. $37.50 from the dealer.

No extra keys to add to your keyring, just use you jack kit normally with the replacment part.

I installed one on my truck this past weekend in about 10 minutes. Also gave me a chance to find out how the spare tire raise/lower/store system works. The kids enjoyed the opportunity to crawl under the truck.

I'm sure if someone really wanted the spare tire, they could still take it, but this will make it a little more difficult.

towcrazy2

Andy -- Thanks for your take on the driving vs. fog lights. It seems to support my "leaning" toward the driving beams, as I too am in a relatively rural area (hence the overpopulation of deer). There are two schools of thought here on deer avoidance: (1)Add peripheral visibility to detect animals that pop out of nowhere and typically run into the SIDES of vehicles (2)Add long-range visibility to detect the critters long before you can with stock high beams.

I've decided to go with #2... Piaa 910 series 110W Ion Crystal Driving beams, mounted at bumper height to the brush guard/light bar, with remote wireless switch velcro'd to the steering wheel hub for quick shutdown in case of oncoming traffic.

So far, my "bag record" is exceptionally low -- Only hit 2 deer in my 12 years out here... Hoping to hold it at that while I have the QC.

EXHAUST -- The Borla cat-back went on this morning... Very deep and mellow outside the vehicle, but aside from a more aggressive tone during acceleration, virtually the same as stock at all cruising speeds from inside the cabin (thank goodness!)... Exhaust gas temperature at the tailpipe is a good 100+ degrees higher than stock, indicating that not as much heat is being "bottled up" in front of the muffler... Anxious for an impression of any power gain and particularly mileage numbers once the computer's adjusted to the altered flow.

want1bad

I was having a bad day and , well, my venting wasn't meant to be aimed at Allen, but I appear to have wounded him. I'm sorry, I didn't mean to shoot the messenger. My post didn't adequately reflect the appreciation for the information you posted, nor my frustration with the original source - Petersons presentation of the results, IMO, sucks. But that's not bigal's fault.

On the other hand, sifting through the information and doing some reckoning of the information that Allen provided did result in some enlightenment. Thank you Allen for the post.

bigal31

not out. Want1bad: all is well..

Towcrazy2: If you want to know the truth deer is the real reason I installed the grill/brush guard. Hell thats the only way I'll get one this year. I'm getting too old to sit out in my stand. I hate the cold....Whish me luck??

Allen-

towcrazy2

Allen -- I'm with you on the tree stand vigils! I let a couple of guys bow hunt from stands in the woods on my spread... Sooner or later, they always get their deer... Problem is, they're so arthritic from sitting out there in those trees, they can't get them out of the woods without my help!

You've got the "big honking" brush guard, so I wouldn't be at all surprised if you could punch one without damage to your bumper or hood... With the light bar, I have to err on the side of caution.

So far, my "hits" have been limited to one in an aging Toyota and one in a '90 S-10 pickup... But it's a problem serious enough to give some serious thought around here.

A friend was out one night last October... Accustomed to the 'burbs, and a rather aggressive driver. I cautioned him about the deer hazard before he left for home... He answered with the usual "no problem man!"

About 10 minutes later, he gave new meaning to the term "fresh venison"... Like the taste of fresh (somewhat hairy) venison flank steak, seasoned with a dash of windshield glass.

I do enjoy fishing, though!!

bigal31

Wow that is too funny. "No problem man". Sure....


Fishing, well as long as it's not ice fishing. HEHEHE..

Allen-

towcrazy2

Allen -- I would have hidden this post (someone's going to have to clue me on HOW to do that)... But HAD TO relate what happened last night.

Elderly neighbor lady is housebound... Called and asked if we could get here a particular take-out order... I volunteered... Went out to pick up the order.

Drove SLOWLY (15 mph) down the private backroad to her house, then slowly back... On the way out, a doe popped out of nowhere... I was within a foot of being totally stopped when she ran into the edge of the front bumper, deflected off the light bar, and disappeared into the woods.

No damage whatesoever to the truck, though I'm sure she must be a bit sore this morning.

Self-fulfilling prophecy???

bookitty

Steve, glad to hear that you and your Quad emerged unscathed. To hide a posting: After you complete the comment and post it. Go down to your posting and click on the entry number. A screen prompt comes up with the offer to hide and/or scribble. Click on hide and go back to the forum. If you want to check on your progress, re-access the topic and you should see your "hidden response" heading.

Bookitty

towcrazy2

Norm -- Thanks for the heads-up on hiding a post!... Don't want to clutter up the board with anecdotal stuff. Actually, October is the only trecherous deer month here... When firearms season starts in November, they're hidden so deeply in the woods we rarely see them again until Spring... Thanks again!

bigal31

sounds like something out of a twilight episode..Maybe we should ixnay on the deersay..
Glad your ok..

Allen-

spike50

I went with Catz MSC (3.5" dia) yellow foglights in the factory holes. The Catz were $200 with taxes. Many hours to design a suitable backstop for mounting. In south central PA we have many deer too. The amount of road kills increase until late November when rifle season starts. Hit a 9 pt. with a Volvo once. Ate the dam deer out of spite.

The 77 degree spread give me the peripheral vision that I need. I don't drive that fast to need "flamethrowers". All I'm looking for is that retina "bounce back" to know where they are.

towcrazy2

Spike -- Good point on the retina bounce-back... I'm still waffling between fogs/flames, though the factory fogs seem to do a fairly decent job at low speeds (as I found out last night)... Our deer seasons seem to align... When gun season hits, they're GONE... But the "hazard season" is upon us, and I'll be making the move within a day or two.

mrjake

I am currently shopping for a set of wheels and tires for my 00'CC 4X4. I am wanting to find some wheels that stick out a little further than the stock 15X8's, but a little worried that 15X10's may be a bit to much. Just wondering exactly what you meant by 5" backspacing? Even though you got 15X8's do they stick out any farther? I am currently running 31X10.50 BFG Mud-Terrains, but am considering going to the 32's if there aren't any problems. Any pictures tuvtest?

mrjake

I posted in the maint board with no avail, but wanted to know if anyone has had any experience with paint sealer products such as diamondkote. The dealer here offers it for $250. My dakota is black, and I am willing to try something new to keep it looking new for a while. It is something they spray on after-market, and is supposed to replace the need to wax (I would probably still wax). Anyway, just looking for some insight.

towcrazy2

JAKE -- The dealer-applied sealants you refer to may have some marginal value, but no more than what you can accomplish at home with an over-the-counter polymer sealant.

Understand that the dealer-applied sealant is one of several so-called "services" that dealership insiders refer to as "Rust & Dust" add-ons that do little more than beef up the gross margin on a new vehicle (thereby beefing up the salesperson's commission).

Because of the relatively skinny gross profit on vehicles these days, some dealerships really push the sealants, scotchguard, undercoating, etc. to punch up margins. But the fact is, the real VALUE of these products is marginal at best. For example, in the case of undercoating, I believe it was Consumer Reports that indicated improperly applied undercoats could actually promote rather than prevent rust by allowing salt-laden moisture to become trapped between the coating and steel underneath.

I could go on about these margin-boosting "services"... Credit Life Insurance (called "Choke & Croak" on the inside) is another good one... Suffice to say, you're better off buying good-quality polishes and waxes, and taking care of that beautiful black paint job yourself.

A final note -- DON'T use ANYTHING on that paint for the first couple of months... Just hand-wash it and chamois it until the paint's had chance to fully cure.

Please take this simply as one man's opinion... Good luck!

livnlrn

Okay, had the QC for 2 almost 3 months now. Winter is fast approaching. Time for the first wax right? Use an orbital buffer, in straight lines front to back on the hood and roof. Up down on sides? Buff off in same manner. Am I right so far? Any tips, tricks??? Intense Blue.

towcrazy2

LIVNLRN -- You were wise to wait! I've had my QC for just 5 months now, and will be giving her the first wax job this weekend - same basic process as you described but with one other step first.

I'll be using a superfine polish (not wax), buffing it, then rinsing the truck onece more before applying the wax... Just an added step to assure that all surface dirt/impurities have been removed prior to waxing.

EXHAUST -- I've had the Borla on for about 150 miles now, and love the system! One interesting note... Immediately after the install, my idle speed jumped nearly 200 RPM... After 100 miles, that condition corrected itself, and idle is back to normal. I suspect that the computer is beginning to "understand" that something's different down there underneath.

tuvtest

Backspacing refers to how far back from the front of the rims the "mounting flange" is positioned. The 5" spacing ,I belive, mimics factory specs. If you went with 15x10's I would watch this closely,as there is not alot of room inboard of the hub for larger rims. IMHO the 32" aren't a problem, at least on my rims. The notching I talked about earlier may not even be neccessary since the tires seem to be beating me to it. I have to burn up the rest of the roll in the camera (probably this weekend) and have it developed. I can send you pics at that time. I haven't figured out how to post in the photo board yet, so that is out for now.
As for the paint sealer, I'm with Towcrazy, stay away from it. I used to work at a Dodge shop and those extras, if even they are actully performed, just line the dealers pockets. You are much better off using that $250 of a GOOD right angle polisher ( not the cheap polishers found at Sears,Western Auto, ect.) Milwaukee,or Porter-Cable, or Bosch would be my choice. Practice with it, and with a good quality ( Meguires pro line) wax, spend some quality time with your Dak.

mrjake

As far as the sealer is concerned, you guys just confirmed what I had suspected. Just needed to hear it from someone else. I know this black is going to be a bit of work to keep looking nice, but that's fine. Thanks for the info on the wheels tuvtest. Like I said, I'm hesitant to go with 15X10's but really want the tires to stick out a little more and fill out the fenders and flairs. So far have only found one wheel that comes in a 15X9 which would be a happy medium, but not real wild about the style. Maybe seeing 32's on your dak will convince me to stay with 15X8's. A picture would be great if you don't mind, just e-mail me (in my profile) and we can work it out when you get the pics. Thanks again

steel45

livinlrn posted some good questions on the proper way to wax. I think I saw a lot of posts in Maintenance? about this.
My 01, QC is Black/Silver. There is nothing prettier than a CLEAN black truck. There is nothing uglier than a bunch of swirls.
So do you use a straight line when applying & removing the wax/polish, or what?

towcrazy2

I understand the pro's recommend straight-line application and buffing for an optimum, swirl-free finish... Which is one reason why I drive white trucks... I HATE details!

dbhfd

Hi....anyone have information on the Kenne-Bell supercharger for the 4.7l engine? I want one for my truck and would greatly appreciate the input.

Thanks

bpeebles

Somone mentiond this in another forum and I was hoping that somone here has further info... Does MOPAR actually have a "cold air intake" for the 4.7L V8 hemi?

dakotacr

I was wondering if anyone knows of the possibility of installing 16" wheels on the Dak. I currently have 31x10,5/15, and was wondering if the same set up could be used with 16" wheels. I don't know if the Durango has available 16", maybe those would work. Help!!

towcrazy2

I would also be interested in knowing whether Mopar is actually venturing into air intakes, though I would be VERY surprised if they were!

I suspect that the reference is to a system such as K&N's Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit, which eliminates the stock airbox and feeds directly to the MAF ("Typhoon" is a "pretty" version of the same).

Unfortunately, last check by phone with K&N revealed that they don't have a Filtercharger kit part number for the 4.7 or 5.9 QC yet... Something about relocation of underhood components on '00-'01 Dakotas. They said it was coming, but not WHEN.

RELATED SIDENOTE -- K&N and Borla are either properties of the same company or have a joint venture agreement for intkae/exhaust coordination & kits. They carry the same "million-mile" warranties, use the same owner registration & feedback marketing mechanisms, and Borla includes repackaged Filtercharger kits as a part of its expanding "Powerset" exhaust/intake line. Unfortunately, the Powerset is currently unavailable for the Dakota (though it IS listed for the '98 Durango).

towcrazy2

A quick "second thought" on the possibility of Mopar offering a performance intake system...

Chrysler, Ford and others have used Harley-Davidson as a "benchmark" for its outstanding P&A sales and marketing. They've spent a LOT of time in the H-D stores and in Milwaukee observing and picking brains.

It so happens that H-D offers a low-restriction intake kit utilizing a trick air filter backing plate and 50-state emissions plumbing COMBINED with a K&N rechargeable air filter. I've installed one on each of my bikes, and they work GREAT with proper carb jetting and exhaust system.

With that in mind, COULD IT BE that Mopar is actually getting into something like that! I'd still be surprised, but would like to think that's the case!!!

tuvtest

Yes, 16" wheels are available for the Dak. The 2001s cam with 16x8" wheels ,with a 5" offset, and 265/70R16 Wrangler RT/S when the Tire & Handling pkg. is ordered. Since you have the 31" tires you also have that pkg. If you are interested, I have a set of 5 of these wheels with less than 100 miles on them. You can contact me at the address in my profile.

96g11

I just finished the installation of the Westin step bars. Got them from Alanta auto (thanks for the tip, great company). Well my quad has a 3" body lift and I figured I would have to do some serious re-fabrication to make the bars "tuck up" closer to the body. Imagine my suprise when I found that by simply reversing the entire installation procedure, the bars fit perfectly! Moving the rear bracket to the front and mounting it between the body and body spacer takes care of the front. Moving the front spacer to the back and rotating it 90 degrees takes care of the back. Then simply changing sides (of the bars left to right)so that the long side is to the back makes them fit right. The back will sit out about 1/4 inch more than the front at this point so I just notched the front mount (where it mounts to the body) by the same and "wallah" perfect fit! No special fabrication needed.

dutch4505

Looking for information for an after market cd changer. I have a 2000 Dakota Club cab with bucket seats. I want to keep the original AM FM Cassette (with cd controls) in my dash. Circuit City states that the part to match the cd changer to the factory radio is not available as yet.

Also where is the best place to install it. Behind the driver's seat?

Enjoy this site. Lots of great info.

victx

I put my 12 disc changer in the center console. Check my profile for link to the pictures.

tuvtest

The factory offers a nice 6-disc changer and a kit to fit it in the console. I also was looking for a aftermarket unit ,and there is a adapter available at $179 in addition to the price of the changer, to use non-Mopar changers. After some digging, I found that the factory unit is made by Alpine, which IMHO is one of the best changers out there, that I would go with that one. I also contacted Alpine directly, and, unfortunatly the store-bought Alpines are not interchangable with the Mopar unit. I found a good source for Mopar accessories at the link below. Their price for the changer is $300 and the console kit is $31. I have not ordered mine yet as it is lower on my neccessity list than some of the other truck parts, but it is coming soon. Here's the link
"http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyckoff-chrysler-parts/index.html"

rons9

I just bought a 2001 quad cab and am wondering if anyone has put a lumber rack on their truck? I love the truck and hate to break up the beautiful lines but need a rack. I doubt that the front would be able to cover the whole cab but would be interested to know how far anyone went forward with the front of the rack. I have enjoyed this forum for the last couple months and have to say you helped me choose a quad cab over all other possible choices. Thank you for your help. rons9

victx

This is where I get most of my car audio stuff for good prices. I think this is the CD changer that will work for your 2000 (seems the changer is different for the 2001 headunit with rounded corners). I'd email them to make sure. Pretty decent price: $279 includes the adapter and shipping. http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024.storefront/EN/Product/JEEPCHYDA

bobs5

http://rackwarehouse.com/
http://www.hitchhand.com/features.html

Here are a couple of sites for racks and stuff.

resqman

How about adding a frame hitch to the FRONT of the vehicle. Get one of those hitch mount supports and put it on the front. Cabella's had a thing that is T shaped that fits in a hitch. The vertical member is adjustable in height ~4-6 feet and the horiztonal member is adjustable in width to ~4 feet. I think it is rated for 3-500 lbs. Install in hitch when needed, take off when not.

There was a fella who was looking into various racks to carry his 17' canoe. Scroll back and I am sure you will find his solutions.

ron35

Dutch - I have the Mopar (Alpine) 6 disk CD player which I took with me when I traded my 98 Ram for my 2000 Dak. It has performed great and is an excellent quality unit. I have it mounted vertically under my back seat (Club Cab). I investigated buying a different CD player but a cable matching it to the controls on my radio was not available. I have since learned that Crutchfield (www.crutchfield.com) now has available a cable that will do this. This will give you another option if you so choose.

Ron
Springfield, VA

spike50

resqman - Unique idea. With a front and back trailer hitch (detachable ball type), one could use the "T" post/racks to haul long items. Still think that you may need something in the middle to keep it from shifting side to side in the turns. I've seen the bicycle racks that fit that way and although its secure it shakes around. With a "T" rack being higher and 300# of lumber up there would give me the "sweats".

Did look at Yakima racks the other weekend. Would be about $300, rides on the paint, caries only 150#. Still looking.

rons9

Bobs5 thanks for the links there were some intereresting racks offered online but none were what I'm looking for. Spike50 did you check out the hitchand at www.hitchand.com. resqman good idea but looking for a standard lumber rack. Thanks for the ideas.

dragonhawk

Does anyone have any experience with the "Advance Cover" (how do you like it, where did you get it, how much did it cost)? Web site is www.advancecover.com and it appears to be similar in design to the Fold-a-Cover. Metal construction, easily removable. However, the version they make for the quad cab has only 2 panels instead of 4.

b67k

MOPAR Performance has a cold air intake and a cat-back system pkg.called cool cat..
Intake system is by K&N, I assume as a K&N cleaning and recharging kit came in pkg.
Cat-back makes a 5.2 sound like a RT 5.9.
Probably the same system as the pipe angles and exit angles are the same.
Be advised that the intake system does create a little more noise under the hood ..even at idle.

csampson

I just purchased a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab SLT 4x4, 4.7 V8, Forest Green two weeks ago and have a couple of questions:

1. I am planning on removing the decals from the tailgate using the hairdryer/plastic spatula technique mentioned elsewhere in the forum. Will this work for the plastic badges on the truck as well? I intend to remove all of the badges with the exception of the one on the hood. This would include the "DAKOTA" lettering and "SLT" badges on the doors, the "Quad Cab" badges on the rear cab, as well as the "V8" badges on the front fenders.

2. In looking at the various options for bed caps/covers I am considering the LS II tonneau cover from ARE. Can anyone comment on the ease of removal/replacement of the cover when you need to haul something without the cover? I am also interested in any opinions from those who have the new power lock feature of the LS II.

Thanks...