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Subaru Legacy/Outback "Check Engine" Light Problems

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My guess would that its residual oil/grease/dirt burning off from the repair, give it a few 100 miles and see if it gets better.

    -mike
  • shiner50shiner50 Posts: 9
    I put my OB in the shop for a new a/c compressor. I picked up my soob and less than a mile later the check engine light came on. I figured that something was left unplugged by the mechanic. I checked all the connections reachable in the engine compartment and found nothing unplugged. It seems to coincidental to me. Any ideas? I have 81k on it and have had no other issues till now. What kind of scanner does it take to read the codes? Oh, I took it back and had the garage hook it up and check it. They said it was a manufacturer specific code. Does anyone know what that means? Thanks. Shiner50
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You need an ODBII scanner.

    Some Advance Auto Parts stores let you borrow them.

    You can buy one for $100 or less. I bought one.

    Dealers charge around $80 to scan a single code some times.
  • shiner50shiner50 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info..doesn't that seem a little coincidental, I mean the light coming on less than a mile from the mechanics shop after they have been under the hood for a day?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yup bring it back and have them fix it on their dime.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It's very likely.

    I'd still get a scanner. They're quite useful.
  • shiner50shiner50 Posts: 9
    I checked with the local dealer as to when the timing chain needed to be replaced on my 03' H6. The dealer told me that the 2.5's needed to be changed around 80-90 k and that I never needed to change out my chain ( H6). Does anyone know the truth about this? thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    on the H4 engines it's 105k miles for 2000+ year vehicles.
    on the H6 the Timing chain doesn't need replacement.

    -mike
  • ebaconebacon Posts: 1
    Have you solved your problem with the P0420 CEL code? I am having the same problem with a 1997 Subaru Outback, 2.5L, with 112K miles. The exhaust system including catalytic converter was replaced in Nov. CEL first came on in March. Gasket between converter and front exhaust pipes replaced. CEL back on after 40-50 miles. O2 Sensor replaced. CEL back on after 40-50 miles. Car runs fine. CEL has gone off a couple of times after filling gas tank but not always. Back on after few miles.
  • shiner50shiner50 Posts: 9
    I had a local garage replace my a/c compressor, high side line, liquid dryer, and expansion valve. I have had nothing but trouble since. Here is one for you subbie braniacs! Now I am getting a low pitch ( sounds like a low note played on a flute ) sound when I run the a/c. What I just described is what it sounds like from inside the car. I popped the hood and tracked the noise to the low side metal a/c line. It is actually reverberating in a cyclic manner. You can feel it reverberating when you put your hand on it. I have no clue other than some kind of restriction. HELP! SHINER 50
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That stinks, sorry to hear it.

    I can relate. I had the timing belt changed on my Miata, as well as the water pump, and I swear they retarded the timing because I feel like I've lost 10 horsepower.
  • shiner50shiner50 Posts: 9
    I had a local garage replace my a/c compressor, high side line, liquid dryer, and expansion valve. I have had nothing but trouble since. Here is one for you subbie braniacs! Now I am getting a low pitch ( sounds like a low note played on a flute ) sound when I run the a/c. What I just described is what it sounds like from inside the car. I popped the hood and tracked the noise to the low side metal a/c line. It is actually reverberating in a cyclic manner. You can feel it reverberating when you put your hand on it. I have no clue other than some kind of restriction. HELP! SHINER 50
  • paulo1967paulo1967 Posts: 1
    hi need some help badly i have a 1998 subaru legacy 2.5 4cam i have a problem with the check engine light coming on periodically but at the time this happens the car loses its power dramatically lately the car has felt like its pulling back all the time can anybody help ????
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You need to get the CEL code pulled, this will point you in the correct direction as to how to fix it.

    -mike
  • subyobsubyob Posts: 4
    I live in Australia and own a [non-permissible content removed]. spec. 2000 H6 Subaru Outback VDC wagon. The 'VDC off" light has recently come on. I have had my Subaru dealer check this and fix the problem but they told me there is normally a switch under the dash to reset this light. Apparently on mine it is not where they expected it to be and they could not find it. Does anyone have any ideas about how to clear this code/warning light?
  • carp53carp53 Posts: 4
    Any suggestions on where to get my 2003 Outback serviced in Seattle ?
    Check engine light on - P0030 code (bank one upstream A/F ratio sensor heater circuit)
  • I have a 2001 Outback Limited with 158,750 miles on it that I bought new. It has always had an intermittent "sluggishness" on acceleration from a stop or slow speed that Subaru service checked out more than once and told me it was the way the computer picked up on the way I drove the car. After clearing the computer 2 or 3 times to no avail, and since it was intermittent, I just lived with it. The car has been a great car up until about 130,000 miles. About a year ago, the CEL came on and the local mechanic (I live about 75 miles from nearest dealer) determined that the car needed a new catalytic converter. Had that replaced. No problems for about 6-7 months, then radiator went out while on out of town trip. Had radiator and belts replaced by local mechanic in nearby town. All was good for about a month then CEL light came on. Since I work in a small city (50 miles in the opposite direction of the Subaru dealer), I took it to a Nissan dealer there who had done a brake job on my Outback and had also replaced a leaking gasket. I have been very pleased with their work. The code showed P0303 Cyl 3 misfire so they replaced the spark plugs, coil assembly and spark plug wires. No problems for about a month, then CEL came on again. They (Nissan dealer service dept.) performed a fuel injection clean and changed fuel filter. Just a day or two later, the CEL came on again. Nissan people ran scan again, and again cyl 3 misfire. They have replaced wires, cleaned connections, checked and rechecked. They have "researched" and asked Subaru buddies that they know what to do. While they were trying to get info on what to look for, I was still driving my Outback even tho the CEL was on. Then last week after work, the car wouldn't start. It tried to start, but would just "cough" and die. Had it carried over to Nissan dealer, and they found fuel pump internally shorted. They replaced the fuel pump assembly and said that it has a slight miss at start up (very similar to the sluggishness that it has always had) and needs injectors replaced (approx $1200.00). I believe they have been honest and diligent in their work and think this is as good a guess as any. They did say that it is very unusual for ANY car to have the injectors go bad. Sooooo, my questions are .....Is this normal for a Subaru at this mileage? Does anyone have any other ideas? And, just what is the normal life span of a Subaru anyway? Is this the end? I was hoping to get a least 200,000 miles out of it. Now I'm thinking I need a new one. I have put quite a bit of money into this one so for this year. When do you stop putting money into an older car and start paying for a new one? I fell in love with my Outback and swore I would never own any other make of car, but now that I've read all the forum questions and problems and had similar ones with my car, I'm not sure. (I even test drove a Nissan! I feel like a traitor!) Any comments?????? (FYI - this Subaru lives in Texas, so no cold weather problems if that makes a difference.) -- 'Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Why would they replace all the injectors when it's only cylinder #3 that is bad?

    Also $1200 to replace the injectors is significantly higher than you should be paying. Let me look up the price of the injectors and we can go from there...

    The injectors are about $125/each and shouldn't take more than 2-3hrs to install for a competent mechanic. So even if they did all 4 we are talking $800, maybe. But like I said, you should only have to do the one that is a problem.

    As for all that other stuff leading up to the injector issue, some was regular maintenance, some was extranious. I've never seen a fuel pump go bad, if it were internally shorted it simply would not have worked.

    -mike
    Motorsports and Modifications Host
  • Thanks for the info. Decided to get a new 09 Forester. Picking it up tomorrow. Appreciate your reply.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Good luck, keep us posted!
  • I have a 2005 Legacey Gt 2.5 Turbo, Automatic. Just turned over 64000 miles (which of course takes me out of the power train warrenty). The car does not get driven much anymore but the wife and I took it shopping yesturday and suddenly got a Check Engine light with the blinking cruise. At first I was like humm loose gas cap or fuse something small. Then about 1/2 mile down the road it started to randomly make a Whoop ( kinda sounded like a siren) noise on the passenger side of the car seemed to be coming from under the hood. I was trying to baby it home so I cant say for sure if it was more under a turbo load or not but seemed to not make the noise if I wasnt on the gas. I didnt notice any true power loss but then again was trying to stay out of the gas as long as possible. I am waiting for a scanner to make its way to me but was hoping maybe someone could lend an idea. Thank you so very much... :confuse:
  • Ok here is what the scanner said. The code was a P0011 .. It read Camshaft Position... Actuator A Bank 1 Timing Over Advanced.. The car seems to run fine and no over heating or anything of that sort. So again any help?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,502
    Hmmm... not sure what it means exactly, but the timing is fully computer-controlled. I wonder if it was just a hiccup? Perhaps reset the error code and see if it pops up again soon. If so, probably something to take to a shop for diagnosis. Be sure to log this event (when it happened, driving conditions, etc), though, in case it ends up being a sporadic problem.
  • OK here is some info I was given today. There are 2 hydrolic adjusters one on each cylinder head, They have Banjo bolts with screens in them that will get cloged or even fall apart. The adjusters work by oil flowing thru them . As you get on the gas the oil pressure boost and it advances the timing for performance. Was told to replace them and to replace the Bango bolts in the turbo line just in case. Not sure where the bango bols are in the turbo oil line so any help there would be great. Have the parts on order at my local subaru dealer. .. Oh yeah and when I bought the car they said to use coventional motor oil but now are saying to use synthetic with this motor.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,502
    Synthetic has much better wear properties than conventional, so yes, I agree that synthetic is preferable.
  • 95sl95sl Posts: 1
    i have a 95 subaru legacy and the CEL came on and i went to get it scanned and it came bac as P1104 which is engine torque control signal circuit malfunction. When i had it scanned the guy told me he never heard of it and he owned a subaru himself. He told me to bring it into the dealer. Well i called around to local mechanics first before i would bring it in to the dealer and all the places i called have never heard of this problem either but they all said it probably had something to do with my transmisson. I was wondering if someone out there had this same problem or had a solution to this problem.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Been around subies for a long time, never heard of that code either. Sorry :(

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • This is exactly what I just experienced and our mileage is close. What happened? They originally replaced my oil sensor, but the check engine light came on again and now the dealer says I need a new turbo and catalytic converter to the tune of $5,000. I have had all the O2 sensor problems and many of the others discussed on this forum.
  • We have 2005 and 2008 Outback XT's with auto transmissions. The 2008 has a lurching shift between gears 2 and 3. The 2008 acceleration is also more sluggish that that of the 2005, even with the auto transmission in Sport Sharp mode. Has anyone else experienced similar symptoms with the 2008?
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