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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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  • Hi, just thought I'd post a update.

    I had the fluid changed last week and used Redline 80w-140 $8.00 per qt used about 2.3 qts. My mechanic ended recommending not breaking the factory seal unless nessary thus he sucked the case out and flushed it with reg gear oil before installing the redline oil... He said he got a lot of thick gray sedement like stuff out of it which concerns me however since he installed the redline oil the chattering rubbing noise I was exp is completly gone! I took the truck on a memorial day trip to Orlando Fl and put over 500 hwy mile it since and still no noise... So hopefully this fluid change and switch to redline oil solved my problem.....
     
    My only concern was that gray sediment the mechanic mentioned finding?
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Sounds like it's very finely ground steel from the gear set. Did the mechanic test it with a magnet? The amount and rate of production of these metal fragments has probably decreased from those initial levels experienced during those break-in miles. Obviously some is good while all of the surfaces are initally mating together but a lot all of the time spells trouble.

    The "factory seal" isn't a big deal to achieve. In my experience with the prescribed Mopar silicone caulk, it takes time (labor $) to thoroughly clean off all of the old and wait a bit for the new to harden up before loading in the new oil. I also waited several hours before test driving (figure 8's to work the oil into the LSD) while the caulk around the plug cured.

    It sounds like your mechanic removed some percentage of that muck. Removal is a good thing but a little is always going to be there, so don't worry. The next time you change the oil, remove the cover and look to see the amount of muck build up, the condition of the gear teeth, and the wear pattern on the teeth. It's sort of like reading the tea leaves to tell you about your past and to predict the future if all stays the same.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am curious if you noted any MPG improvement. You did not mention if you have 4X4 and manual tranny (like I orderd from factory)

    When I changed over to RedLine in both Diffs, Xfer case and tranny, I immediatly noted 2-4 MPG improvemnet.... especially on the highway.

    The manual-tranny shifting was also much improved.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The gray muck is from the clutch material and as Spike said there will always be some of this residue in the gear oil. However, in my experience the worst it ever gets is just after manufacturing. I think this is due to the initial loss of clutch facing material during break in.

    Again, as Spike noted, using the correct Mopar RTV sealant leaks are never a problem unless it wasn't applied correctly. If you use the common RTV sealants you will eventually see a leak. There is a special differential gear oil resistant type that is required for differential covers.

    When I changed mine out I literally flushed out the differential and the inside of the case with a solvent to get as much of the clutch facing material out. There is also a magnet glued to the bottom of the differential housing on the inside that should be checked for metal bits. You obviously can't do that if you don't remove the cover.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • It has been some time since I posted so I wanted to give an update on tires. My dilemna last fall was in deciding on what tires to replace the OEM GoodYear tires with. I purchased the Yokohama Geolander H-T/S tires from Tire Rack. They have been excellent. The tires were good in snow. The best attribute has been the ride and it is much smoother now.

    I have left the Edelbrock IAS shocks on as the new tires have more than compensated for the stiffer ride with the shocks. I would buy the tires again without looking at anything else.

    Now that the truck is approaching the 50 k mark it is time to finally replace the brakes. The steering wheel is telling me it is time. Actually in looking at the rotors, it looks like there is a build up of material which in all likelihood is from the pads. I see there are many posts on brakes and pros/cons with whatever purchase is made (OEM vs aftermarket, etc..) so I will make a choice and see what happens.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Dave,

    How many miles do you have on the tires and how do you judge the wearing?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    davewarwick1 - I have a '00 Quad, 4WD, 4.7L, 5sp, 3.55 LSD rear, and 31x10.5-15 tires. My suggestion is to stay with the standard semi-metallic pads, similar to the OEM or stay with OEM. Although a good pad, ceramics appear to be more than necessary and expensive. Although I had run the ceramics for approximately 20K, I went back to my original OEM's that still have 75% - 50% of the pad left today at 60K. They appear to be a good product.

    I don't know how you can test them before hand but good metallurgy is the key to getting a good rotor that doesn't warp prematurely and that doesn't create profuse amounts of brake dust. You could get lucky going OEM and that depends on what and when the supplier made them for Mopar. I have Power Slots ($) but they warped a little too and have been successfully resurfaced by my local shop. I guess rotors are available from stores like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, NAPA, etc. and could be good stuff but I have no rotor experience in that regard.

    My experience with tires is the classic "double-edged sword". In hindsight, as the GY RT/S wore out wet-traction deteriorated and they became very dangerous. Gas mileage (19-21 mpg on trips) and ride-comfort (a low wife complaint quotient) were OK for a truck. Last November, I put on the Bridgestone AT - Revo and both my mud-bogging / snow abilities and wet-traction greatly improved but gas mileage and ride-comfort (she'd rather go to the dentist than ride in the truck) took a hit. Although these tires are light years ahead of the GY RT/S in the attributes that are more important to me, they are heavy, stiff-walled truck tires and are a bit noisier. I can't spin these (if ever) like the GY's but a 54 yr old should probably stay away from that adolescent behavior anyway.
  • jimt1jimt1 Posts: 4
    I haven't posted in some time, but have a couple of comments and a question. (2001 quad 4x4,4.7,auto, 3.92LS, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Airide air bags, 97,000miles). I replaced Goodyear RTS`s at 82,000 with Yokahoma Geolander HTS tires and am well pleased with them. Minimal discernable wear in 15,000 miles, good ride quality,quieter, and great on wet roads ( South Fl). Have had diff. problems despite fluid change to synthetic(factory) and have had total rebuild of rear. I am installing PML cast aluminum cover this week and return to synthetic fluid (Amsoil). I hope this will be end of rear problems, but dealer probably contributed to early demise. Transmission is now coming out of lockup when in overdrive at steady speeds ( ie. 65mph, level ground, on cruise control) I am afraid this is indication of further problem. It seems to occur less frequently when I drive manually as opposed to on cruise. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. JimT
  • Dusty,

    I now have 6k on the tires and just had them rotated. The front tires were just barely starting to get that "cupped" inner/outer edge. I would say the wear has been good and look to get in the 40k + range again. I do have access to a tire groover and should the ride still be good at 40K we can get a little more out of them and see if we can approach 50k with safety in mind. These tires would have to have something bad happen for me not to buy them again.

    Spike - Thanks for the note on brakes. In all likelihood, I will go with OEM and see what happens. I have yet to see a DDQC that had front rims where you can see the color. By the way, my off roading is right after I swerve to miss deer. So far so good with the Yoko's.

    Dave
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    I've really been surprised by the absence of brake dust since I change to the Power Slots from the '00 OEM rotors. Like I noted earlier, I'm using the same OEM pads so the previous condition had to be caused by the OEM rotors.

    I've seen some poorly kept Durangos that had either black or rust colored front wheels. I still shake my head when I see a BMW, Mercedes, etc. with extreme amounts of brake dust on the front wheels. Either they are lazy owners or the car is leased.

    Good luck on your choices.
  • Hi bepeebles, I have an 01 4.7 auto 2wd sport plus lsd rear 3.55 4 whl antilocks etc
    one day after this fluid change I took a 500 mile round trip to Orlando Fl and avg about 19-20mpg doing about 75mph. I will continue to monitor the mpg and let you know though.
  • Hi, Dustyk,I agree removing the cover completly would proberly be the better way to flush the rear diff. However, he just felt that since the truck only has 33k it was not nessary. Although it would have been nice to take a look at the gears and the magnet. The positive thing that came out of this whole fluid change regardless of the method used is the chattering noise is totally gone so hopefully the new fluid did the trick... 800 miles and all is good
  • Just thought I'd give my two cents on these. I installed a set of the yoko's ht-s also. 275/55/17 size mounted on a set of the R/T's 17 in rims. Love the tires awesome traction wet or dry and are wearing great! Ride is diffently harsher but the truck handle's much better. I also have a set of the edelbrock ias shocks and like those as well. I installed the shocks prior to getting the tires just to see how they effected the ride and handling. They made a big difference.The truck is more responsive and controlled feeling and rides over the bumps much nicer then with the oems.
  • jeffs17jeffs17 Posts: 9
    I have a 2003 2WD Quad Cab (with rear disc brakes) and every time I go into reverse when it is raining (any temperature) or the temperature is near freezing, there is a groaning or moaning noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. Does anyone know what is causing this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Are you saying that just GOING into reverse causes the problem? (The vehicle is NOT moving?)
  • jeffs17jeffs17 Posts: 9
    No. The vehicle must be moving in reverse to make the noise.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    I guess the next questions are:

    1. Do you think that the groaning sound is coming from one or both wheels (brake caliber problems) or do you think that it is in the rear differential (drive-train clearance issues)?

    2. Is the sound continuous (brakes and/or rear dif) as you back-up for any amount of distance or is abrupt and only occurs when the suspension gets loaded in the opposite direction (dry rubber bushings on the leaf springs, sway bar, or shocks that are tighter in cool weather)?

    3. Is it repeatable every time you go into reverse in one whole day or is it once and done for the day until it sits over night?

    4. Does the groaning "always" occur in cooler weather or only in certain types, e.g. frozen slush under the truck versus "dry" cold?

    Probably the wrong time of the year (weather-wise) to run a test but stand outside the truck while someone else moves it in reverse. You know best what sound to listen for.
  • dakownerdakowner Posts: 21
    This problem is associated with the 03 Dakotas with 4 wheel disc brakes. I experienced it on my 03 Quad cab for a couple hundred miles during the first 500 miles on it. There is a TSB (0500603) covering this and the fix is to install bushings on the rear calipers. I didn't have mine done and I've never heard it since. Take it in and they'll do the fix.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have been in other vehicles that moan while backing up. Apparently, rear disk brakes have a tendancy to do this. I would ignore it.

    My Dak, has DRUMS in the rear, they squeel every time I stop. (Just like a delivery truck might)
    I have taken them apart and PMd them. The squeeling came back within a month. It stops when I push on the brake pedal, that is all that counts.
  • jeffs17jeffs17 Posts: 9
    I cannot tell for sure if the groaning sound is coming from the brakes or rear axle. It does not sound like surface rust being ground off the brake discs by brake pads which commonly happens when a vehicle is initially driven after sitting unused for several days. It does sound like metal-to-metal rubbing.

    The sound is continuous when backing up, regardless of the distance traveled. It seems to get louder if I accelerate in reverse.

    It is repeatable throughout the day when the noise occurs. The truck does not have to sit overnight for the noise to reoccur.

    The noise frequently occurs when the outside temperature is below 40 degrees F, regardless if it is dry, raining, or snowing. And it also occurs at warmer temperatures but only when the truck has been sitting in rain for some time.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    jeffs17 - It seems that dakowner might have the "fix" to your problem. Since the groaning is always there, this could well be caused by the brake caliper clearance issue noted in dakowner's reference to a Mopar TSB.

    Print-off the TSB, read over it, walk into the dealer with it, in-hand, and asked to get it fixed. Make sure that they test it out with you in the truck. If they say that your's doesn't need it (checked on the lift) or they do apply the fix, let us know if it worked (no groaning in reverse). I don't know how handy you are, but if there seems to be a cost issue (shouldn't be), you could get the parts and install them yourself. If she's still groaning let us know and we can go from there.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,018

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Karen, thanks for the "heads up" on the Dodge Dakota history. Very interesting.

    Bookitty
  • jeffs17jeffs17 Posts: 9
    I had the TSB work performed on my Dakota for the moaning noise. Now I have to wait and hear if the noise is gone. The dealer could not replicate the problem, but still did the work for free under warranty.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    I have recently started wondering if my '00 QC 4x4 could be lowered approx. 4". I've noticed that it could easily be achieved in the back by reattaching the leaf springs so that they are below the axle as is the case in a 4x2 unit versus below the springs in a 4x4.

    The front end is where it would get tricky. One could adjust the torsion bar anchors to some degree but only as much as the camber can be adjusted and stay in spec. I don't know if that adjustment would be enough to keep the overall ride slightly "tail-high". I also wonder how these changes might impact the current 4x4 height shocks.

    I like the 4x4 mode and in some cases the 4x4 height but that tailgate seems like a mountain when heaving motorcycles, a dead deer, or construction materials into the bed.
  • jodyjody Posts: 4
    I've been hearing the same noises in my '99 for the last six months. It really just sounds like the front end suspention could use a little lubrication
  • My 03 QC is running well with only 8,000 miles on it. My only complaint is that the engine compartment on drivers side is extremely dirty while the other side is still clean. I noticed a hole between fenderwell and engine so I took it to dealer and they said this is normal, I don't believe this. Anyone have this problem? -JD
  • anybody blown there infinity speakers? if so did you replace them with the factory ones or go after market?

    seems theres very little choice out there for aftermarket I would like to stick with infinity's and i'm considering the infinity 6002si reference models 6 1/2's.

    also anyone install a sub in the q/c. not much choice here either if you still wanna retain the full function of the rear seats...
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Try moving the front end of the vehicle up and down slightly. If you hear the noise the most likely suspect are the sway bar bushings. Very common on Dakotas. They'll need to be replaced.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I've got nearly 30K on mine and I haven't noticed this to be a problem.

    Can you be more specific as to the opening between the fenderwell and engine?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
This discussion has been closed.