Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

bookitty

I do remember reading a posting regarding the power door locks actuating at will. The previous posting reported a mysterious "cure" so that he could not take it to the dealer. Unfortunately, I cannot remember in which topic the posting took place due to the myriad of topics previously dedicated to the Dodge Dakota. Perhaps one of the other members can recall the report.

Bookitty

jhuttonwv

Thanks to quark and cowtownaggie for the .02
For spouse reasons, we will do the auto which ever engine we go with. Certainly, the 4.7 is well liked and seems most popular although the 1500-2500rpm torque difference between it and the 5.9 is staggering. No doubt a next generation 5.9 would be very nice indeed. Primary use will not involve any sig towing but heh the joy of big V8's and stump pulling torque is delightful and 100% All American. I'd love the 5.9HO Cummings in the Dakota. Rams are too large for my tastes.

goldwing

wantaquad

well, for 2001 you can option the heated mirrors (now code GTS) with the sliding rear window.....yea, that's a change from the 2000 models. So that's what I went with, but got a bit concerned when the dealer told me he thought that they were manual controls......but thanks for the update......the code calls them power heated mirrors, fold away.......and that's where the debate began....power heated or power and heated.......well thanks for the update.....

also, i have the codes for the 2001 if anyone is interested (scanned in right from the dealer book)......just let me know........

zonk

There is a discussion on synthetic oil and its definition and value in Topic 2072. Don't want to start trouble here, but I know that several QC owners really like synthetic oils. It would be nice if themacguy or others would give me the benefit of their wisdom on this. Basically, some vendors can legally meet the definition of synthetic oil and not give you a "real" synthetic product? Also, there was some interesting comments about acid contaminates in aircraft engines being a reason for the FAA not approving the lengthening of the time between aircraft engine oil changes when using synthetics. Is this a problem for vehicle engines, too? Thanks for your comments.

deborahm

I would like to see the dealer codes for the 2001 models if you still have them.
Does anyone know how long the wait is now for a 2001 model? How about a price?

iowabigguy

I use Mobile 1 synthetic, or at least I did in my last Dakota. I changed oil and filter every 3 to 4 thousand miles. (depended on when I got time to change it myself). I got started with synthetics back in 1978. I had bought a ford Fiesta, had a 1.6L 4 cylinder engine and a 4 speed. That year we had a hellaceous cold snap. It took almost 2 hands on the shifter to change gears before the car warmed up (if it ever did at -24F). A friend suggested I change the transmission oil with a product called Amsoil, never heard of it or synthetics before. It allowed the transmission to shift as easily as it did in the summer. I was hooked so I used it in the engine too. It started easier and the oil pressure gauge showed full oil pressure faster than the dino oil however Amsoil was about $6 or $7 a quart so when Mobile showed up at about 1/2 the price I switched to it with just as good results. I stay with Mobile because they have provided satisfactory results over the years and because I don't trust all the newcomers who are now showing up, claiming great things, without a proven track record. I don't know if Mobile 1 is better than dino oil but it sure performs better in the cold weather we have in the Midwest. Rick

iowabigguy

I haven't started using Mobile 1 in my Quad yet because if it is as slippery as Mobile implies then I want to make sure the engine is fully broken in before I start using it in my baby. I'll start using it once I get 6 to 7 thousand miles racked up, probably by time Fall gets here. Rick

quark99

Must be a deep south thang....'nuff jokin' around...I'm going to change over to Mobil 1 also...if i can find the correct filter...nobody stocks it in the deep, deep southern part of the East Bay in Northern California..
-quark

zonk

Thanks for the answers guys, I appreciate it.

resqman

My 94 Dodge Caravan had the possessed door lock syndrome. Was sitting in the den watching TV when I heard a strange noise coming from the garage. Got up and went to the garage. The vehicle was continously locking the doors as fast as it could. The vehicle had been at is so long that the battery was half dead. Disconnected the battery and called a tow service. The dealer claimed the onboard computer had gone hairwire.

Replaced the computer and the mystery door locking went away. Only $325! Of course I had other signs the computer was not working correctly. The dash would alternately turn on and off with the guages reading normally and then zero and then normal.

Bought the van new in Sept 94. Mar 00 had the computer replaced. When the vehicle reached 15 mph, the doors automatically locked. It had never done this before the computer was replaced. I noticed in the owners manual for the Quad that this is a feature that can be selectively turned off or on. Apparently it was never turned on in the van until the comptuer was replaced. Two months later traded in the van for the Quad.

rixis7

Dean, you might have been told correctly. The most DC Customer Service has told me is generic parts restriction information, and they have usually referred me to the dealer for more info.

At least you're getting through. I've called several times each day since 7/3 (except 7/4) and get only a busy signal. Never had this problem before last week. I thought maybe they were closed for holiday, but if they answered your call...

I ordered my Quad on 4/14, but the order never made it past BG status. The dealer finally admitted in early June that it wouldn't be built as a 2000, that it had to be reordered. The sales manager talked about price protection and preferencing the build date on the new order. As late as 6/30, though, he said he still couldn't order the 2001 Quad. Check again, I said, others in this topic were already getting mid-July ship dates. Amazingly, I had the new VON within 24 hours.

All is not well, though. He told me this morning the order is in BG status - so we're back where we were in April! Looks like the promises of preferencing haven't taken hold, though he said he talks with his district rep about the order every couple of days. Because I haven't been able to reach DC Customer Service, I cannot confirm the status. Maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised.

Meanwhile, the Farm Bureau discount is set to expire in 3 weeks.

At least all the positive experiences posted here by those who already have their Quads gives us reason for optimism.

aeroshots

My 2000 Quad 4x4 feels like it is driving over a piece of corrugated tin on every little bump in the road, also could be described as light turbulence. Between 40 and 50 mph it does the same, but to a much lesser degree. Very smooth ride at all other speeds and no bounce etc. at speed. I do not remember my test ride vehicle showing this tendency. I've experimented with tire pressures from 30 psi up to 40 psi in 2 psi increments--same symptom. Is this just the way it is? Do any of you have the same ride conditions? I fly for a living and make every effort to avoid even light turbulence--kind of ironic that I get the same sensation in my new truck.

wantaquad

Well, just thought that I'd post again........ordered a 2001 quad back on the 6th of July. The dealer just called with good news: my order just went to D-1 status........

YEA!!!

victx

Dealer gave me a build date of Jul 19th for my Quad. I actually have two trucks coming with my name on them. They ordered the first one w/o the overhead convenience group because DC had it on restriction when the order was placed, so the system conveniently accepts the order minus the restricted item. When I got the list of options ordered I saw the overhead option missing, so they had to order a second one.

If anyone wants an Intense Blue Quad, 4.7L, 4x4 sport plus, HD service group, power heated mirrors... (all options except auto tranny, leather, towing hitch, and of course the overhead convence group). I went through Autobytel and they are selling to me $500 over invoice, you could probably get a little lower if you go to them directly. The dealer is Crenwelge Dodge in Kerrville, TX. Let them know I referred you, maybe I get brownie points.

themacguy

The acids are a by-product of the combustion process. They are carried away by the oil you use into the crankcase and some is blown out the exhaust (though minimally). Frequent oil changes will really help here. Higher quality (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc) actually have some different types of modifiers and additives in the new SJ config. The most recent have less zinc content (harms cat. converters) and many more friction modifiers for better economy (mpg). We'll soon see 5W-20 being normal in the warranty sections of our owners manuals, though I'll stick to 10W-30 for TX heat. If you want any further stuff, just send me an e:mail and I'll walk you through 'everything petroleum' 101.

Anyway, I tend to feel that the WORST grade of synthetic - if it has a company name with any heritage at all - is probably better than ANY petro-based oil made. Which is NOT to say that regular petro-based oils are bad (at all). Change the stuff at frequent intervals and your engine should last just as long as one running synthetics at normal change intervals in the crankcase. A lot of my thinking here is related to viscosity breakdown in any petro-based product that I know of vs. the inherent resistance of vis breakdown in the synth oils (primarily in extreme use environs such as desert heat or arctic cold). It's really just that simple for me. And yes, I've been following the 'Pilot vs. Tim' thread over in that other Topic since it started. I just wanted the pilot to fully disclose his point (it isn't even fully related to the Topic's 'topic'), and watch Tim fend him off with his simple logic: Synth is better than petro any day of the week. Why? It is engineered to BE that way. Period.

quark - If you need a (some?) Mobil 1 filters, just e:mail me and I"ll get it (some) for you...

steve234

Do what I plan on doing. The book says to maintain the oil change intervals, but when I get my new quad started on syn oil, I am going to the 7500 interval. I too have been doing the 3K with my F150 and have 60 OC in the book. In reality, I should be doing the 3 month interval, but I am just caught in the habit of 3K changes.

iowabigguy

While we are on the subject of oil changes and intervals. I've noticed if you use the schedule "A" you are required to change oil at 7,500 miles or every 6 months but if you change using schedule "B" the only requirement is every 3000 miles with no monthly requirement. I wondered about the logic behind that decision by DC. I have 4 cars in our household fleet. I have a 95 Nissan Altima SE (5 speed), gets its oil changed by dealer every 2,000 miles, this is the wifes car, it only gets about 6000 miles a year use. Both my daughters have 5 speed Neons, a Plymouth Breeze DOHC and the other a Dodge R/T. These get the oil changed by the dealer every 3,000 miles, or about every other month. My personal truck ONLY gets worked on by me if at all possible. I have used only Mobil 1 in my previous Dakota CC and will in my Quad once it is broken in. I change the synthetics every 3,000 to 4,000. I have never had a oil related problem in any of my present or previously owned vehicles regardless of type oil used. I think the main "secret" of engine longevity is just frequent oil and filter changes.
I've also noticed another reason I don't like automatics, schedule "B" requires a fluid and filter change every 12,000 miles. So if someone drives as much as Quark99 they could be doing that every 3 to 4 months. Bet that gets expensive!

Has anyone replaced the differential lube with synthetic. If so did you use just the synthetic or did you add the Mopar friction modifier! Rick

ferous

I have always been a "every 3,000 miles" type of guy, but with my new quad, I'm going every 7K. At 3K I put in Mobil 1 and 2 months later I just turned 8K and the Mobil 1 looks nice and clean. So I'm going to stay on a "every 7K miles". I think the 6 qt. capacity helps to get extra miles out it.

ferous

Last month you heard towcrazy2 and myself complain about the $2 plus a gallon gas prices here in Michigan. We knew it was price fixing, and had nothing to due with "green gas" and shortages.

Last night I filled up with $1.52/gal gas. That's 57 cents a gallon cheaper than 4 weeks ago ($10 cheaper to fill the truck up). I think this goes to prove that the big oil companies were fixing the prices in the midwest.

bsparx

So this is where the traffic went. Good to see all the familiar names again. I've been languishing in the Crew Cab forum for the last week wondering why it was so slow...Thanks to all who set this up.

In my last vehicle (Ford truck) the manual explained that the max AC recirculated the air in the cab while the reg AC cooled new air from the outside. Anyone know if that's the same with the DDQC? If so, maybe the vent which shuts off the outside air is stuck open on the AC only blowing 60 deg? Just a thought...

Still working on my dealer for my wheel grind tsb problem. I had to cancel my appointment because of a work conflict. Anyone else have this going on besides me and badassbob? Anyone subscribe to Alldata, and know what the problem really is?

Thanks, as always,
Ben

jcstewart

I was just wondering what tire pressure you fellow owners run. I have had my Quad for three months now (SLT+, 4.7, auto, tire & handling, 2WD, 3.55) and am disappointed with the MPG. I barely get 12 MPG city (85% of my driving with ~6 mile round trip to work and back) and have never done better than 15.5 MPG highway. I also do not have a heavy foot. I only occasionally try to dust some punk kid in his Mitsu Eclipse. I know tire pressure has alot to do with my poor mileage. The chart on the rear edge of the drivers door is for the 215 tires and recommends 35 psi. I am currently running 38 psi but think 45 would be more appropriate. My mother-in-law has the same truck and gets more than 3+ MPG in similar driving conditions. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Much of the information on this site has been very helpful to me in my purchase of this truck and I do love it (upgrade from a 1988 Mazda B2200).

Thank You

kmenne

I am thinking of going synthetic and doing the oil changes myself. I have 5.9 and auto trans., 4x4.

What have you "doit yourselfers" found out about this task? Are there any tricks? problems?

I am assuming that there are no lube points on the chassis?

knkresort

Hey Jack,

Living in Houston, I changed my Quad's oil at 3500 miles to 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic in early June. Did I go wrong? Should I have gone to 10W30 and if I did go wrong, was it a big mistake (like change the oil again this weekend?) or can it wait until 7000-8000 miles?

KnK

2drive

Here in Minnesota gas prices also have dropped significantly over the last month. 87 oc has dropped from $1.90 to $1.35!! Must be all that cheap imported oil that they are pumping now!!

themacguy

You're fine with the 5W-30 until your next scheduled change. The "W" in 5W-30 (5W-40, etc.) means "Winter." As the temp on your engine goes up from cold to hot, here's what happens: your oil flows like a 5-weight at 0 degrees F., thens changes (thickens) towards a 30-weight at or near boiling (212 degrees F.). Essentially, your oil will probably never see the 5 (or 10) weight 'thinning' as your engine never gets below 60 or so in the spring, summer or fall weather cycles here in TX. Other areas of the country should use what the temp cycles and viscosities require, accordingly. Just move the 5 to a 10 at next change. Oh, and the synth oils in the 30 weights protect the same as a 40 weight (heat wise) in a petro-based oil. BUT, more is not necessarily better as the 10W-40 synth oils act like a 50 weight at or near 212 F., so they are really only needed (or wanted) for really TOTAL heavy duty or race use. It's just too thick for most normal use.

Oh, and just for the record: little, if any price fixing by the major oil companies was going on in the midwest. SOME price gouging was inevitable by some unscrupulous types, sure. The reason your price 'spike' was so high was due to fuel stock problems - since your politicians voted in some very stringent requirements about adding methanol to your fuels for clean burning, and to help farmers out, etc. The problem was the unexpected rise in futures prices that had refineries (mostly non-majors) 'hedging' on their fuel stocks. In essence they were hoping for a price DROP in crude about Mar. / Apr. for the summer blending run that didn't happen due to OPEC's getting their act together (a first) to control our prices. The refiners were also caught with their pants down with regards to availability of certain chemicals 'required' to blend your gasohol mixes. It was a one-two punch that drove up prices artificially.

In Midland, TX (where I live and work in the largest domestic area for produced crude) our prices are right where they were $1.59 to $1.89, and will likely continue to stay. We make nominal livings as well - we pay through the nose like everybody else. It hurts us like the dickens, too!

Of course, ya'll can gripe and moan (hopefully good-naturedly) about how we're getting rich and all that (stuff), but I'll bet the oil industry NEVER gets a dime of the federal funding to save jobs (we've lost half a million in TX alone in the last 15 years) that farmers (and others) have enjoyed for decades. We have been THE whipping boy of Congress for a long, long time. I'll also bet your vegetable and beef prices are much lower in the midwest too. That's fine that govt. tries to help the little guy stave off the big predatory agri-business swallowing up family farms - I HATE little guys getting swallowed up. My concern is that the petroleum industry - thanks to certain monopolistic tycoons in the early part of this century - was RUINED for the past, and Congress continues to view us as 'cash cows' for their little empire in the present.

We are in the same boat folks. Our end (domestic oil) has 'sunk' however, and the public was warned this would happen back in the mid 80's - to no avail. So get used to higher prices, and buy more efficient cars and trucks - it's going to be a long haul. Until SOMEONE with cajones can convince Congress and the American public that compressed natural gas (CNG) is THE alternative for gasoline. More efficient direct rail diesels, and to some extent, gasohols or other 'blends' will help alleviate this fuel price situation as well.

The so called hybrid engines - unless they are CNG / kinetic electric types - are way off and very impractical (read horrendously expensive) to conceive of at this time. The hydrogen needed for these engines will come from hydrocarbons anyway, so that's not a 'clean' solution - CNG IS, in most every respect, better. off-soap-box O:-)

steve234

As far as the A/C goes, there is a simple test that you can do in an instant to test that you are going from regular to max. Turn the A/C on and the fan to maximum with all noise makers off. When you switch from normal to max, you will shortly hear a distinct change in the fan sound if the door is operating properly.
Jack forgot to mention one other thing about the gas prices in the Chi area. Your retailers misjudged the demand this year. All oil for that area goes thru the Tulsa area. When Chicago did not stock enough oil, they had to buy more. To get it, they had to bid against other refineries. The result was that OK, KS and other states in this area were paying higher than the national avg, because of the competition. There are other factors involved, but that is a major reason why this area had crappy prices. BTW $1.27/gal. now.

steve234

Just called. My Q is moving down the line as we speak and is shipping out today. Hoorah. I feel like a kid on Christmas eve, creaky and achey, but like a kid.

ferous

Best one I've heard so far - use the top half of a 2L bottle under you oil filter to reduce the amount of spillage. I had mess the first (only) time I changed my oil.

steve234

I did call the 800 number. Because of a small problem that I had, I have a priority shipment. I saw someone mention that they had a 7-12 ship date, but have not heard further on that. I am supposedly getting the first 01 in the South Central states. Dealer still does not know how much until he gets the invoice from DC. As I hear anything, I will pass it along. Right now I am looking to see who will loan me a digital camera or I will have to scan some pics when it comes in.

cowtownkid

Greetings Fellow Quadders! I too thought my ac wasn't cooling properly. Back in May (we were already hitting middle 90's in Ft. Worth) I took truck in and talked to my dealer. I was welcomed in the service area and the mechanic explained that my Quad held 1 & 3/4 lbs. of R-34. Turned out mine was 1/2 lb. low. Currently we are seeing tempatures of 105-108 degrees in cowtown. After servicing, my Quad cools down very quickly and gets down right cold after 10-15 minutes of driving. Of course I use the Max position to start initial cooling but after a bit I switch to normal and stay very comfortable.

Gas mileage side note: 4X2, 4.7, auto, 3.92 lsd...Couple of weekends ago I filled up in a small town in very hilly countryside, drove without ac, cruise set at 65mph. Before hitting Ft. Worth I had driven 64.8 miles and filled up again (do not want re-formulated gas). It took 3.035 gallons to fill up, mileage was 21.42 mpg. No kidding... When driving in town. I average 14-14.5 mpg. The 21 mpg was best to date though I haven't tried to duplicate this senario again to confirm, and have yet to drive for an extended period of time on any Inter-State. I currently have 5200 miles on my Quad.

cowtownkid

newquad

Hi all,
I know I already posted this dilemma about the squeaking driver seat problem, and my dealership is just goofing around with the problem. Someone posted the fix for a bench seat, but I have the bucket seats. Anyone out there that had a squeaky driver bucket seat? I also have the power seat. If someone knows the part name (seat rail assembly, I believe) and part # for the bucket seat fix, I would love to have it before bringing my truck in again. Also, how did the dealership figure out what was needed to fix the problem? Apparently there is no TSB out for this.
Thanks in advance.

rixis7

Has anyone heard whether the Farm Bureau discount will be extended for another year beyond July 31?

2drive

Yes, according to my latest issue of FB The Voice of Agriculture.

gbilhimer

Ok we all have one Quad in the driveway by now, So my question is has anybody bought two?
I hear some of you talk of the wives not wanting to give you back the keys after driving them so I figure someone out there must be the first 2 Quad Family!!

Greg

iowabigguy

"Ok we all have one Quad in the driveway by now, So my question is has anybody bought two?"

I'm making payments on a 99 Neon R/T and a 00 Quad (house is paid for). I think once the Neon is paid for I might go for another Dakota but not a Quad, I was thinking more along the lines of a R/T Club Cab that only has one set of keys! Mine. Rick

iowabigguy

Why are you woried about stock diameter? Find the tire/wheel combo you like and have your dealer update the Quads computer with the new tire revolutions per mile. Rick

themacguy

So heed iowabigguy's advice and just get the right tires / wheels and spend the $70 bucks to reset the speedo. I've done it 6 times to date, believe you me, the first time's the hardest.

First, go to [www.hotchkis.net] and look at what they've done to/for the Quad. Call them up and ask em about their truck. Next, do the same with Motor Trend - they did one fine Quad with a near .9g result, AND their engineers are looking at ways to use shock valving to get to 1g! I've only used some of their stuff to date and believe me, I've run some pretty incredible auto-x times in this thing - and I'm not nearly finished with it. But, I want a decent ride and some hauling ability with mine - it is STILL a truck for gosh sakes.

With the P-Zeros (nice tires), or their equivalents, you can shave or just 'sipe' the treads to get a bit of extra traction, And the 2/2 drop you want will probably be a 2/3 (the only really good one I've seen). The R/T stuff is really not substantial enough for serious work - my opinion only; obviously not D/C's - you'll want the Hotchkis goodies for really well engineered handling. They wrote the book on it to date. Ranchos may be all right; I don't know, I tend to go with Konis (yellow) with 'reworked' shock valve units ($$$) on most of my autocrossers.

Now, the bad news. With the dropped chassis, shocks, BIG sway bar(s), low profile meat and - what the heck, 'some corner weighting' thrown in for good measure, you'll have yourself one FINE handling machine = 'possibly' BMW coupe territory. However, getting your significant other to ride in your new 'knuckle dragger' (regularly) is going to be a whole nuther Topic I'm sure... and I hope you've already had 'all' your kids, if you know what I mean - and I think you do. ;-)

cowtownaggie

Hey Guys,

I also posted this in #2032 (only afterwards remembered this one) :=)

Hope someone can help. I am looking for a oil pan drain valve to fit my 4.7L. I have seen / gone to the fumoto site (www.fumotovalve.com) & they have a pretty good one (like their warranty also). However I am looking for other options / different types. Does anyone know where I can find them?

Also, does anyone know what size, pitch, etc. the drain plug in the 4.7 is? I could not find it in the Big Orange Book.


Thanx for the help

PDS

qc2001

called dealer on fri. 7-14. he looked in my file and said that i had gone to D1 status, and then he looked closer and said that the ship date would be 7-14. i am going to call on mon. and see what the exact status of the 2001 QC is in according to them. i am really excited now as i am sure the rest of the 01 waiters are. i am ordering a CD deck for the quad this week and am glad to see that tere is finially a price on the bed extender. i enclosed the order status codes for those of you in the procees of receiving your order.

ORDER STATUS CODES
BB - review by fleet department
BD - special equipment processing
BE - edit error
BG - passed edit n/a for schedule
BGL - edit ok parts unavailable
BX - passed edit available for schedule
C - sub firm
D - firm schedule - dealer has allocation and allparts available
D - 1 gateline schedule - scheduled to be built
E - frame
F - paint
G - trim
I - built not ok'd
J - built ok'd
JB - shipped to body vendor
JE - emission check
JS - shipped to storage
KZ - released by plant , invoiced
KZL - released - not shipped
KZM - first rail departure
KZN - first rail arrival
KZO - delayed/recieved
KZOA - plant holds
KZOB - zone/distribution holds
KZOC - carrier delays
KZOD - carrier holds
KZOE - mis-shipped vehicle
KZOF - show/test vehicle
KZOG - damaged vehicle
KZOH - all other reasons
KZT - second rail departure
KZU - second rail arrival
KZX - delivered to dealer
ZA - canceled

really excited. salesman also said that i would get FB even if discontinued and his dealership would fight with DC since in the deal, they were paying for the membership and offseting that cost with the rebate for their profit. so far they are ***** in the sales department.

Evan

guanner

I too played with the tire pressure to see if I could get rid of the wash board. found that the quad rides smoothest on the stock 31-10.5R15 at 40psi.. If any one else has a thaught on this it would be usefull.

Thanx
Scott

samg42

I was talking to my dad today and found out that an uncle is working at the yard where my truck may come in. His crew is working to expand the yard for the RR. So now he is on the alert to get the word out when my truck arrives at the yard. My family can sometimes beat the internet for getting information out.

moparorbust

Hi all, what a great treat to find there is already a "Quad Club" OnLine!!! We own a '98 Sport right now, but have decided to buy a Quad. After 3 weeks of back-and-forth trying to find a 2000 optioned out right, I began to lean towards the '01. From the comments here, it sounds like a good leaning! I'm a longtime MoPar/Dodge guy, been into the Challengers & performance stuff; my daily driver is an '88 Shelby Daytona with 209,700 miles so far and going strong. BTW, re: the synth oil & change interval ??s, I've been using Durablend ever since it came out. (Used to mix "Turbo Formula" Valvo & Valvo Synth 50/50 before they did, too.) I've NEVER had any oiling problem - 440 race engine, 340 equipment van/hauler, the 2.2 Turbo - all of 'em loved it. The Shelby Dodge Auto Club guys had some 'experts' who told me to loose the 20/50 (yep, I mix viscosities too) in the turbo engine, but I always use at least 1 qt. of 20/50, and 10/40 the rest, up to half 20/50 in summer, changed every 3,000-4,000, with good results.

When I rebuilt the turbo engine last year (it was OK, but I figure 'once every 12 years or 200,000 miles, whichever comes first') I was amazed at how clean it was inside. The best authorities I've heard on the topic say the advantage of Synth oil is the resistance to coking (remember the Mobil 1 TV ad with the frying pans?) and resulting obstruction of oil passages & breakdown of the oil's cooling & lubricating properties which dino oils suffer. The change interval is determined by the engine's service severity, not the type of oil (sorry, but good synth or blend still needs to be changed as often as straight fossil oil.)

Speaking of the Shelby guys, Larry Sheppard (sp?) was there & had a great tidbit which may help the "hissing A/C" crowd. He noticed my Shelby's leaky steering rack and told me "they all will do that eventually. The A/C condensate discharge nipple comes out of the firewall right above the rack & drips into the output seal, causing it to corrode enough to leak. When you have the head off & can get to it, attach some tubing to the nipple & run it down past the K member, BEFORE you replace the rack." We don't have our Quad yet, so I can't say whether a piece of tubing could be the solution... but will be looking into it!

We will be towing a big horse trailer (main justification for the 5.9) and my wife will drive the Quad to work 8 miles each way. So mileage isn't a real big concern, but torque is. Still, I'm thinking the 3.55 gear will be plenty behind the 5.9. Anybody have any reports back on the 4.7 vs. 5.9 question? Or heavy towing in general??

We pretty well have decided to get the 01, but would love to see the options listed & discussed. How does the Taupe look? We're thinking Amber Fire, and it sounds like a good match. Glad to hear the T&H is 16s now - 16 x 8? - with what tire size? And of all the seemingly little things that will make a big difference when you NEED it - finally, the Heated, Power, foldaway BIG mirrors!

Anybody HAVE their '01 yet??? What's it look like????? Any other noteworthy differences?

Thanks, and we're looking forward to getting to know y'all a bit more!

qc2001

i am not an owner of a 01 yet, but hope to be within the end of the month. to answer your question on tire sizes, i looked it up on the 01 order sheet i received from my salesman.

4x2 new P255/60R16
4x4 new P265/70R16

either way its alot of meat. the rest of your questions i am not informed enough to answer.
good luck on your choice of a Dak QC.

Evan

victx

QC2001, thanks for the update on the 2001. My 2001 has a build date of 7-19. Did you have a typo: you said you called your dealer on 7-14 and you have a ship date of 7-14? I am curious to know if 7-19 is the first build date. I'm still waiting on pricing info and kinda curious to see what the new fascia looks like. My dealer said they should get the invoice a couple of days after the truck is built, so I should know pricing in the next two weeks.

moparorbust the 4.7 is a much newer design, that is the engine I am getting. I looked at the power difference, mileage and decided I would go with the newer 4.7. I believe the 5.9 should be replaced soon. I don't think anyone has a 2001 one yet, I believe this week will be the first production run of Quads. Significant changes for 2001 are the new color of silver, a new fascia, new 16 inch wheels (in the Tire and Handling package) Homelink in the overhead convenience group, Theft deterrent key.

steve234

In case anyone was wondering who is samg42, that was me. I was not on my regular hookup. I remembered right after I posted, but apparently a server went down. Aint computers wonderful.

steve234

The 01 started production on 7-10 and the first run is already headed out on the rails.

qc2001

sorry that i didn't explain better. i ordered a 2000 in mid may and was canceled. i then reordered a 01 on june 14 and called on july 14 to check his most current order status, in which he then stated that my truck was scheduled to be shipped that very same day. i called the 1-800 today and was told that my most current status is G or trim and that it should pass build inspection by wed. and shipped by the end of the week.

iowabigguy

I noticed in a previous post you mentioned a Motor Trend project Quad. I was on their web site but could find nothing on the vehicle other than the picture from the SEMA show. Do you have any info??? I'm in the looking stage right now but I also am considering a 2/3" drop. The Quad looks TOO tall right now. Have you dropped your Quad? If so could you provide details. I'd also be interested in what other suspension mods you have made.
What wheels are you using for your everyday use. I like the look of the R/T 17" rims but am invested in 2 sets of the 15x8 split star factory rims right now. I thought I saw somewhere that the 17" rims are available from DC now as accessories in the $170 range rather than the ridiculious replacement parts price approaching $400.
I'm just full of questions today, hope you don't mind. Thanks too for the drop in gas prices, $1.49 here this week. ;-} Rick

themacguy

1st - April '00 issue of Motor Trend has the Quad.

2nd - It was heavily modified in the suspension & exhaust, mildly modified 'on' the engine itself and they heavily reworked the cab. Nice results. Your local library should have it - I think M/T sells back issues for about 5 bones.

3rd - Suspension mods. were (for a 2/3 F/R drop): lowering springs, firmer F/R anti-sways, & Hotchkis spec Bilstein gas shocks. More to come, they say. Mine didn't have the T & H package so it's 1 1/2" LOWER than any other variation. Fits me to a 'T' so much I haven't done any lowering.

4th - Mine 'was' a stock Sport w/ 15X7 wheels and 235X15 tires. I have a set (from ebay) of the 8" wheels I use as everyday drivers with a set of K/S 'Road Huggers' (255X70's that don't change the speedo) that have been 'siped,' yielding a VERY smooth ride with great street handling that can (does) medium weight trailer hauling (4,500#) at a moments notice. My track setup uses the R/T wheels with a set of 245X45ZR17 Yoko A032R tires set up for auto-x. I've had a couple of sets of polished (Borbet) & 1 other chrome variation of wheels & several sets of tires I did or didn't like. Plus, chroming can actually weaken a wheel. Whatever. I use Koni yellows and stiffer F/R antisways, higher # springs and I've made some fairly serious efforts at corner weighting. All of this was less expensive than when I bolted in the 3.21 rear to try for some more mpg (big mistake). And it rides like velvet. MUCH better than stock. More later.

5th - Aftermaket sets (repros) of the 17" are going for about $750 / set - I don't know anything about Dodge lowering their ridiculous set prices for the 17" R/T wheels. They should, but with the 16" wheels coming, why worry... And, I like your idea of using TWO sets of 15X8 wheels; it's THE way to go. Good pick.

6th - You're welcome.

asta

I've been going to my old Quad topic on Edmunds and confused as to why there were no posts since June 27! Now I know - everyone's here at the new club forum. Been waiting to hear from my dealer about resumed ordering for the 2001 Quads and I can seee by the all posts that my dealer pretty much dropped the ball in calling me - uh, I'm giving you my money, dude - don't you want it???!!

Anyway, I'm back in the groove and I'm going to place my order next week after I get back from a quick trip to Idaho (Coeur d'alene). My query, before I order, is what's new for 2001 and where can I find the info on the web? KBB has not updated for 2001 Quads yet so I have no idea what is available and what it will cost. Could call my dealer I suppose, but you guys are so much better informed (and a heckuva lot more entertaining). Can't wait to be a new uad owner - which brings me to my last question - how long is everyone waiting on a new 2001 order on the average??? Feel free to email me offline with any info so as not to bore other posters who know all this stuff already. thanks! and congrats to all those who fought the good fight getting the owners forum up and running. I knew there was a reason I bailed on the Supercrew! Dodge drivers do have more fun (and manage to get their trucks into their parking spaces at the end of the day)