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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab



  • slr9589slr9589 Posts: 121
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    Three strikes and Dodge is out. You are doing the right thing my friend. Its a tough decision I know, but in the long run, you have to weigh how much you like the truck now vs. how much its going to cost you down the road.
    You gave Dodge three chances to get it right. You are much more patient and forgiving than I am :) Hope the Chevy performs well for you.

    On another note, the valve covers for the 4.7 engine are going to yuk.....plastic! read on...........

    Dana Corporation Supplying New Cylinder-Head Cover Module for DaimlerChrysler 4.7L V-8 Engine

    Toledo, Ohio -- Apr 09, 2003 --

    Dana Corporation (NYSE: DCN) announced today that it has begun supplying the cylinder-head, cam-cover module for DaimlerChrysler’s 4.7L V-8 engine for the Jeep® Grand Cherokee, Dodge Durango, Dodge Dakota, and Dodge Ram vehicles.

    The new thermoset plastic cylinder-head cover module was developed in just 12 months and replaces a magnesium component. Due to innovative manufacturing processes, Dana was able to reduce the overall cost of the module, while incrementally improving noise, vibration, and harshness, or NVH.

    “Innovation within modules and systems provides a wonderful opportunity to reduce complexity, improve functionality, and create added value for our customers,” said Dana Chairman and CEO Joe Magliochetti. “The cylinder-head cover module for DaimlerChrysler demonstrates our commitment to satisfying customers’ needs with new and unique solutions.”

    “Dana brought an extensive range of advanced capabilities and technologies to the development process, helping DaimlerChrysler meet its aggressive launch deadline while also increasing the value of the final solution,” said Mike Laisure, president of Dana’s Engine and Fluid Management Group.

    The vinyl ester glass-reinforced thermoset plastic modules, which are unique to the left- and right-side cylinders, include the cover, gasket, and fasteners. These components are produced at Dana’s Composite Sealing Center in Paris, Tenn.

    With this new sealing system, Dana developed a custom compound material for gaskets and grommets. Dana also provided prototyping for the gasket and isolator molds to ensure the design met all of the customer’s specifications. The system relies on a self-retaining, “press-in-place” gasket to improve function and quality consistency. This innovation eliminates the time-consuming and costly steps of precisely aligning and attaching the gasket to the valve cover with adhesive.

    Dana engineers worked closely with DaimlerChrysler’s technical staff to provide 3-D solid models to fit tight, under-the-hood requirements. Dana also provided material development and component validation to ensure robust system performance. This collaborative effort eliminated the prototype step for the cover housing, which in turn reduced development time and cost by allowing the component to move directly from design to production.

    A leader in the reduction of NVH, Dana provided extensive finite element analysis, or FEA, to ensure accurate NVH predictive analyses during the product development process. This capability allowed an incremental NVH improvement to be realized over the already favorable acoustical performance of the previous die-cast magnesium component.

    Dana also supplies piston rings and rod bearings for DaimlerChrysler’s 4.7L V-8 engine.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I don't understand why you say "yuk." Why not use a material that is cheaper, reduces assembly time, does the job better, and reduces noise?

  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    usually, in Detroits world, translates to a cheaper product.
    I speak from experience once leasing a 95 Taurus that had, when I turned it in, a pretty good leak on the rear valve cover. It too was plastic.
    So too for a family friend with an old AMC eagle that had a crack in the high tech plastic valve cover and had to spend nearly 200 bucks to order it and replace it. So much for being cheaper.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    .......materials are stronger than metals (especially cast) given the same thickness. You will notice that just about everybody is using this type of material for intake manifolds and throttle bodys where they have been exceptionally reliable, I might add.

    The only good reason to be using metals nowadays is when you need to transfer heat or electric current, or you don't care about weight. Casting in metal is commonly more expensive unless you are using really low-grade metal. Valve covers use to be stamped many years ago, and they were often the source of leaks from distortion caused by over tightening, and they would crack, too.

    Those magnesium alloy valve covers on the 4.7 motor, by the way, are actually quite fragile and highly susceptible to damage from harsh solvents and cleansers.

  • My wife and I continue to enjoy our Dakota Quad Cab. It's been a fun 7,000 miles so far and my local dealer has been extremely interested in keeping me happy. I get a call from them after every scheduled service visit to make sure everything is satisfactory. This was my first new car purchase and I was extemely anxious about the experience. The Dakota has settled in nicely at about the 6,000 mile mark and the old 3.9 has done all that was asked of it and more. Take care and have a happy holiday. Thanks for all the good conversation here!
  • jimtjimt Posts: 56
    Wishing everyone a safe and enjoyable Thanksgiving!As always thanks for the good information and good will that has been provided here. JimT
  • I've got a 2001 Quad cab with 72000 kms on it (the full warranty just ran out at 60000). My rear drivers side window just stopped working and the window is sitting at about 1/4 open. I push it up with my hands and it just droops back down again. Anybody out there have an idea how to fix it. My past experience with pulling off interior plastic on other vehicles is:
    1) I'm never quite sure where to start pulling, just in case I'm breaking something instead of pulling out a removable plastic fastener.
    2)The panels never seem to go back own the way they were originally.
    I'm hoping its something cheap and simple like a belt or something. I've never seen the internals of one, but I'm willing to try to fix it instead of paying some dealer.
    Any suggestions? Or know of free manuals on-line somewhere that would describe the fix?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The item that moves the window is called the "window regulator." I don't know what Dodge uses for a rear window regulator system, but in the past some used a bead chain or a worm drive.

    To remove the rear door Trim Panel on the Dakota, perform the following:

    1. Open the door.

    2. Roll the window down.

    3. Remove the screws that attach the trim panel to the door frame.

    CAUTION: Do not use excessive force to pull the trim panel away from the door or damage may occur.

    NOTE: The Door Trim Panel is attached using L-shaped retainers that are molded-in and part of the panel. When installed, the "L" of the retainer is pointing downwards, toward the bottom of the door. These retainers are aligned to rectangular holes in the door frame and this is what holds the Trim Panel to the door frame.

    4. Grasp the trim panel at the bottom and simultaneously lift the trim panel upward and outward to release the retainers from the door frame.

    5. While supporting the Trim Panel, disengage the inside door release linkage rod.

    6. Disconnect the power window motor/lock harness connector.

    7. Pull the trim panel away. If necessary, pull the upper trim extension outward to disengage the rear door.

    8. To inspect the window regulator, use extreme care and remove the water shield.

    If you need help beyond this, let me know.

    Good luck,
  • Hi, first I want to say I've been lurking for some time but have never posted. All of you have taught me alot about the Dakotas. I have an '03 4.7 QC 4WD automatic with about 9k miles on it. I've noticed for the past few months that the idle (in gear) when stopped is running rougher than it was when brand new. I checked any possible codes and there are none. The dealer says it's normal, they all do it. I find it hard to believe that such a sophisticated engine could possibly run rough. I've searched through this board for '03 solutions but didn't find any. Can anyone help? Thanks.... Ray
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926

    Is this problem intermittent?

    Does it appear to be more noticeable in certain temperature ranges?

    If the heater control is moved to the defrost mode, does the idle quality improve?

    If you answer "yes" to all of the above, a likely suspect would be spark plugs.

    If you answered "yes' to the last two only, I would suspect contamination build up at the idle air port in the Throttlebody. You might try some fuel injector cleaner, but removing the Idle Air Control Motor and manually cleaning the port is more effective.

    There could be a computer problem, but I think it's less likely to be the issue. If spark plugs and the idle air port are not the problem, and you ran a few tanks of fuel injector cleaner through the engine, you might have a lazy or defective fuel injector.

    Best regards,
  • Dusty, thanks for taking the time to answer my question. I know that the idle is roughest when the engine is cold and smoothes out a little after warmup. I don't know about the defrost test but I will try it on my way home tonight. Also, the problem isn't intermittent, it's there everyday. I will get back to you tonight or tomorrow.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Well, we made the trip but the 1268 miles were for a good part achieved in bumper to bumper traffic. It was the Thanksgiving holiday weekend and although we expected traffic to be heavy, it went way beyond our expectations. Must of the stoppages were for "gaperblocking" as folks stopped to stare at the accident vehicles. Next year, that won't happen, as all of these good folks have now seen an accident and thus will feel no need to stop, slow down and stare. If anyone is interested in purchasing a used car or truck I can now show them a lot of vehicles with "as new" turn signal bulbs. Some, never used. "Left Lane Louie" is alive and well, I can assure you. The Quad ran like a proverbial top although I averaged under 18MPG due to the fact that I was constantly in first, second and third gear. We left on Saturday morning from LBI, NJ and arrived this morning @ 11:00 AM. We stayed over two nights in lieu of the planned stay of one night, but last night we learned the true meaning of the "screeching halt!" Mozart, after a few moments of pitiful crying turned out to be a wonderful little traveling kitty and enjoyed staying in the hotels. Happy to have arrived unscathed, and safe and sound.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I checked with my local Dodge technician and he tells me that they have yet to replace a fuel injector for a 287 (4.7) motor. He did say that he has heard of reflashing the computer for rough idle, but doesn't believe it's the root cause.

    He agreed with me on either worn spark plugs or idle air port/motor being the most likely causes. He also said that on a few the PCV valve was the cure for rough idle. These were all winter-time complaints and they were accompanied by a slight sludge build up around the PCV valve. He also said to check the air filter. He has found two that were caused by the filter even though they looked fairly clean.

    I should state that I had a intermittent bumpy idle that seem to start at around 7500 miles. It was a very slight thing and not always noticeable. It was intermittent and went away by going into the defrost mode. This raises the idle speed slightly by energizing the idle air motor and opening the idle air port. There were some days that I thought it idled just like it did when new, which was like glass.

    I tried running some fuel injector cleaner through it, but could not detect any difference. I removed some of the plugs and other than being .002-.003 over the gap setting they looked fine. I replaced the plugs with Bosch 4418 Platinum+4s and for three days the 4.7 idled like glass.

    But the intermittent idle came back, although I think it was still improved. Now at 18,000+ miles it idles fine and has done so for the last 7,000 miles or so.

    Best regards,
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    My 02 4.7 has had a rough idle since it was new. It is most noticable in the winter. In the summer with the A/C on, the idle speed is increased and the problem goes away. Same thing with turning the defroster on in the winter. The dealer has never found anything wrong and replacing the plugs and air filter at 30K miles didn't change anything. Most of the time the idle is about 600-650 RPM. Sometimes it is as low as 450-500 RPM. That is when it is rough. This seems to be a common problem on the 4.7L and there isn't any one fix, if there is any at all.
  • Thanks for the in-depth tips! I tried the defrost method several times while stopped on my way home tonight. I could feel the idle going faintly higher but it didn't make any difference. The roughness I'm getting is best explained: when stopped and in gear, if I slightly take my foot off the gas pedal, the truck bumps forward in a jerky motion. The idle (in gear) stays at about 600. Once I put my foot on the gas it smooths right out and is very responsive. I will look at the air cleaner tomorrow. Thanks so much...Ray
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    there was a flash for the PCM that took care of the rough idle on my rig.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Sunburn & Raybo,

    Yes, I noticed that the rough idle occured on mine when the idle speeed dropped below around 600 RPM. I am not sure why it drops that low at times. But in the last few months it has not repeated this symptom at all and idles very smoothly even at 500 RPM.

    This could be caused by a marginal idle air port motor. I have been told that removing the motor and cleaning the port area solves this problem for a long time.

    Raybo, there's nothing to say that you don't have a vacuum leak or something else going on that could cause a rough idle. I would start with the simply things, if you are going to try to tackle this yourself. After the air filter, I would try cleaning the idle air port, then plugs, I guess.

  • ferousferous Posts: 226
    This is my fourth fall with my 4.7 (65K miles) and when it's cold in the morning and warm in the afternoon, the 4.7 runs rough. The computer takes longer to adjust for the cold intake air temp. This is normal and you shouldn't worry about it. It's just the way it is. Kind of like getting use to your wife (10 years and counting).
  • Thanks Dusty and everyone,

    I'll keep you posted as I try different things to cure this rough idle. You guys are great!

This discussion has been closed.