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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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Comments

  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    like us to be repetive.......ignore my second post.
  • Yup, I am aware of the 10 minute "Fudge Factor Flush". Presently, I don't consider the rough idle a problem. More like another unexpected nuisance I wouldn't have expected from a $40,000.00 (CAN) truck.
    .. however, a re-learnin' may be in the future, once the weather improves.
  • looking at a 2002 quadcab sport plus with 4 wheel drive and the 4.7. i have looked at pricing here and at kbb. wondering if you feel 17,500 is a fair price. truck has 39300 miles.

    I've been lurking for a bit, thanks all for the good info.
  • I've been lurking around for the past couple of weeks getting lots of useful Dakota info in this topic. Anyways, I paid a visit to a local Dodge dealer, tried out both a Quad cab and a Club cab, and things were looking pretty good until the dealer tried lowballing me on my trade-in($1000 below blue book). The main reason he gave me was that since my sports car (99 Merc Cougar V6) had a manual tranny. He also recommended that I add an automatic to my potential Dakota order, saying that the trade-in value down the road would be much higher. The fact that he only had auto Dakotas in his lot was most likely a motivating factor. Anyways, I thanked him for his time and walked out of the dealership. After I got into my car, another guy (probably the sales manager) came up to me and tried cutting a deal in which the proceeds from me selling the car on my own would be treated as the trade-in value. However, he didn't want to increase the trade-in offer himself. I said I'd think about it and drove off.

    I figured I'd mention this to see if anyone else out there encountered a similar situation. I like manual trannys in my vehicles. However, it looks like the great majority of folks want automatics in their vehicles. As a result, it appears that a car/truck with a manual is a liability when it's time to trade it in. Any thoughts/opinions on this would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    He is mostly feeding you BS. Besides, you have to consider that it COSTS nearly $800 for the auto tranny to begin with and you will get WORSE MPG and have to perform more costly preventive maintenance on it too.

    Get what you want. Why pay for somthing you dont really want betting that some future "trade in value" will be more. That is a pretty lame reason to pay for an option. Are you buying a vehicle as an INVESTMENT or for TRANSPORTATION?

    Another way to look at it....

    Use the edmunds "Used Car Appraiser" with and without the auto tranny.

    I just ran my 2000 Dak thru the "Used Car Appraiser" and found that the auto Xmission would be worth about $300-$400. I am glad I did not pay the Xtra $800 for one.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Resale value is determined by many things, but the primary factor is initial cost. The basic rule is the more you spend the more it will be worth.

    The "lower resale" comment for manual transmissions is true, but as Bpeebles points out so is the initial cost. The true resale value is the differential between what was paid and what can be returned in cash value. I ran several combinations of Dakota through the Kelly Used Car on-line and pretty much got the same result as Bpeebles.

    There is one disadvantage when trading in most manual transmission equiped vehicles, and it's the real reason why new car dealers talk them down on trade-in. The turnaround time is longer due to the fact that most people want an automatic transmission when looking for a vehicle. This means the marketability is lower and hence they have a tendency to sit longer on the lot.

    For this reason and this reason alone you may be more likely to get a low-ball offer on a manual, all other things being equal. This is especially true the newer the vehicle is because manual transmission trucks in the higher used price ranges are not as marketable as less expensive ones. A $4995 used Dakota with a manual has a lot more marketability, either to people looking for a truck as a second or third vehicle driven for specific purposes, or to the more youthful person who is either getting their first vehicle and often prefers a manual.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Alan, the dealer is trying to get you to pay, in order to simplify his business. When I sold (privately after hearing all of the dealer BS re standard shift) my Ford Explorer, the buyer commented, "I've been looking everywhere trying to find an Explorer with a 5 speed." When I sold my '95 Dakota with the 318 and the 5 speed the buyer commented, "I've been looking everywhere trying to find an Dakota V8 with a 5 speed." In both instances the new car dealer ran the sale as a "courtesy trade" to save me some sales tax. When asked by dealers as to why I don't want an automatic transmission, I always look them straight in the eye and respond thus; "I never learned how to drive one." Stick to your guns.

    Bookitty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    (bookitty) I will have to start using that line too ;-)
  • fastback2 - I tend to agree totally with bpeebles. Most of these dealerships are looking for any excuse to tell you why your trade in isn't worth as much as you think. I would bet that if you went to that same dealer and told him your trade in was automatic that there wouldn't have been much difference if any in the price difference. If possible I would always try for a private sale. There is a certain segment of the population that will always prefer a manual shift and it is becoming increasingly difficult to find them. I gave up and ordred my 2K Dak to get mine and it was the primary reason I didn't buy a Tundra 4x4. I also ordered a 98 Ram 2500 with manual and had a dealer tell me that I shouldn't order it because it was inapprpriate for northern Virginia, I told him that if it was my money and I wanted it that it was appropriate for me.

    Ron
  • ferousferous Posts: 226
    I have also received a lot of grief about my 4.7 with the 5spd man. After 66K miles I still love it! I was told that I should also order my truck with 4wd as it would improve the resale. I laughed at the dealer and told him that after 150K miles, I will save more in gas than the resale will ever make up. He responded back with "you actually keep a truck for that long?". Yes I do, so I won't be back any time soon.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    When those "poor resale value" manual transmissions in new trucks are sitting on a dealers lot, there's nothing wrong with them!

    Bests,
    Dusty
  • haselhasel Posts: 64
    I live in North Eastern New Mexico here most of the trucks are Stick Shift,
  • I've always preferred a manual myself, as I feel more like I'm driving the car or truck instead of just being along for the ride. IMHO, I think that any future trade-in money that I would save by having an automatic would be more than offset by the initial cost and the lower fuel mileage (especially since I figure on keeping the truck for several years if I get it). Tommorrow I'm off to pay a visit to another dealer to see what he can do for me. If I continue to get lowball offers on my car, I'm going to seriously consider doing a private sale of my car during the spring when getting a decent price will be easier. Thanks for the advice!
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    With the conclusion of deer hunting season (unsuccessful by choice), I can now wash all of the frozen mud, sticks and leaves off of the truck (from mirrors on down). BTW, the Bridgestone AT - Revo's got me out of some potential side-slipping door scrapers.

    My concern is that when I'm in 4W-Hi or Lo slogging along, the engine idle automatically increases from the normal (2W - road) 700 up to about 1,500 rpms. I have to modulate my forward speed by working the clutch (2000, 4.7L, 5sp). While under warranty (pre-36K), I did get the PCM flash to fix the stalling problem but never did any real "dirt-roading" until 40K-50K. This is the second hunting season that I've experienced high engine idle when I want to go "real" slow.

    Preliminary discussions with a service manager has not given me any comfort that they have a clue other than $. Any ideas?
  • well, our dakotas made headlines. Has anyone experienced the bad ball joints that they referred to on the news. Not the publicity that Dodge needs I'm sure- a dakota with the front wheel falling completely off????. -JD
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    This is OLD NEWS. A ball joint can get so bad that it breaks. This can happen on ANY vehcle with ball joints. The owners manual spells out a recommended maintenance schedule that includes inspecting the suspension regularly.

    I am not sure about your state but here in Vermont, all suspension parts are inspected annually. It is part of the manditory "Vermont State Inspection" and includes exhaust, emmissions and other items.

    I have replaced ONE upper balljoint on my 2000 Dakota. I used a MOOG brand balljoint that has a grease fitting. I have been keeping an eye on the other UBJ and it has not been an issue.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    I have had a few Dakota owners tell me that they had to replace ball joints -- usually uppers, I think -- but I have yet to heard of one breaking.

    I don't know about the rest of you, but I noticed the day I bought my 2003 that the grease seals were flat as if there wasn't a drop of grease in them. It wouldn't surprise me if most of the failures were the result of insufficient lubrication from day one.

    After 36,000 miles I plan on installing zerks so I can grease them. Of course with my luck, the damage may already be done.

    Dusty
  • Question for everybody. I know our brakes are the worst, so when you replaced them (most people seem to have gone with Power Slots) what pads did you use? Some say the Quiet stops and some say stay away from them. Any suggestions since I have to replace mine now too?
    Thanks,
    Eric
  • Seems like a lot of people went with the Rayb Quiet Stops. That's good enough for me! What was the best local price you found B?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    First, I don't think Dakota brakes are the worst. I know people here have had varied results with brake performance, but the vast majority of people I've personnaly talked to have had average to above average results. At just under 20,000 I have already reached the threshold where our Avalon needed rotors. My 2003 Dakota has lots of pad left and the rotors are still chatter free.

    Depending on the year, of course, Dodge has used various rotor and pad suppliers and the quality did vary. This is not a unique situation in the industry. If you visit any of the truck and SUV forums you'll find examples of similar complaints.

    Now, that being said, there are aftermarket rotors that are of better quality. The question is, are they worth it. Depending on your particular driving that may in fact be the case. As to pads, I've heard mixed results from folks who have used various brands, and that includes ceramics. Although some are advertised as "liftime guarantee," not everybody appears to be happy with them for various reasons.

    Ceramics will give you a lot less brake dust but some claim that stopping distances are increased. This could be specific to the model vehicle (I've heard Suburbans and GM pickups don't seem to like them).

    I have looked at Powerslots and they look like a very well made rotor. I was impressed with the machining and finish quality. I know a fellow who uses them on his '99 Dakota with factory pads and he seems to be very pleased.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
This discussion has been closed.