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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

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Comments

  • ritzoidritzoid Posts: 19
    Raven, I have a 2001 QC with buckets with the occasional seat squeak...driver's seat, right rear corner...near the seatbelt attachment point. I aperiodically squirt a little Triflo on the mounting points and it seems to take care of it...for a while. HTH Regards, Steve
  • RavenoneRavenone Posts: 20
    Dusty & Steve,

    Thanks for the information. I'll try the spray approach and let you know how it works.

    All the best,

    Raven
  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    OK guys/girls.... I'm getting a little frustrated. First, trying to find shocks for my truck (02, 4.7 4wd QC) is a circus. Every where I look, no one carries shocks for the 2000 and up Dak. I found Edelbrock IAS, but that was it. I finally got fed up and ordered the Edelbrocks and I'm sure they are worth the price (bushings must be gold plated or something). The second act of the Dodge circus has been trying to find a service manual for an '02 Dak. What is the deal with Chilton/Hayes???? Nothing on the Dak since '00??? Does anyone know where to get a cheap shop manual??? Not that I need it for the shocks, but for other upgrades/repairs.
  • haselhasel Posts: 64
    The Monroe Reflex will work Front 911220 Rear 911140 they are no problem to find cost $40.49 Front 41.54 Rear.
  • In order to install an airbag switch you have to get an exemption letter from NHTSA. Information is available at their website at ://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/airbags

    You need a letter since you have a rear seat, so in theory you shouldn't have to put kids in the front seat. Works fine unless you have more than 3 kids (like me!)

    Once you get a letter from NHTSA, you can get someone to install the switch. Cost me $325 3 years ago, and the service tech came to my car at work. Seems like a lot for "just a switch", but it ties into the car electronics so you get an airbag light when it's turned off etc.. Whomever modifies the vehicle has to submit record of the modification to NHTSA.

    Originally I thought to "do it myself" but decided in the end that I didn't want to deal with the safety issues associated with either accidental deployment, or lack of deployment when needed.

    Good luck.
  • I got Rancho RSX's last year for my 01 DAK Quad cab. Big difference from stock shocks. Bought them during Rancho's 4 for the price of 3 sale. I believe they are close to the Edelbrocks for about half the money. I believe the sale is going on this month.
  • traumagastraumagas Posts: 64
    Hello all
       Thanks to this board, I have found the code for my check engine light po155 and identified it to Oxygen sensor 2/1 heater element Malfunction. with that what does that mean ? Can I buy o2 sensor (the one located on the right exhaust manifold ) replace it then reset by battery disconect Also who should I get the o2 sensor from Napa or other ?

    Thanks again for any help on the above question
    Jon Stensloff
    Traumagas@aol.com
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Before you lay down some bread for an O2 sensor, I would check out the circuitry going to it first. You could have lost power to the heater circuit.

    I've seen and heard of mixed results when using aftermarket O2 sensor replacements. On older FWD Chrysler products the factory replacements were noticeably better. On GMs I don't ever remember a difference. I know people with Nissans and Toyotas that think aftermarket replacements are much better.

    I would seek other opinions.

    Good luck and best regards,
    Dusty
  • jhorljhorl Posts: 89
    Now that the dakota is gone and I'm waiting on my Ram diesel I have a few questions. bpeebles, I ordered with a 6 speed manual. Are you pleased with the Redline manual Tranny fluid you are using. What improvements if any did you notice. Also the brake break-in that has been mentioned here. Should I do something like that with a brand new truck. If so can you redirect me to that post so I can download it.
    Thanks
    John
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    My 02 QC, 4.7, auto, 4x4 turned 40K miles today. Everything seems to be holding up OK, except for the front rotors. They're pretty warped. The truck is starting to shake bad when braking at high speeds. Also, getting feedback through the steering wheel and pulsations through the brake pedal. This has all come on in the last 5K miles. I'll be ordering some new Brembo rotors and some new brake pads soon. I'm also starting to look for some new shocks. I've narrowed it down to either Monroe Reflex or Rancho RSXs.
  • glzr2glzr2 Posts: 70
    Just an update.... the front Edelbrock shocks final arrived. Installing the shocks was easy. The biggest problem I had was with the Craftsman "professional" grade floor jack. I wasted three hours and three trips to Sears. I just picked up the rear shocks yesterday and plan on installing them on Saturday.

    I really like the IAS shocks. Of course the OEMs were completely blown out, so anything is an improvement, but the IAS seem to handle really well. The Spring Detroit potholes and expansion joints used to really throw the truck around, but now it doesn't bounce.

    I'll give another update after I install the rears this weekend.

    I do have a question for anyone who has replaced the front OEM shocks with Edelbrock IAS. At the lower attachment, did you use the provided aluminum spacer between the IAS shock and the arm assembly? The spacer was in a separate bag (inside the box) with it's own assembly diagram, but it was not mentioned in the assembly instructions. I would guess that the spacer is used to provide additional clearance for the shock cylinder (to axle shaft?), but it seems that it would add addition stress to the bolt by increasing the distance between the point of downward force from the shock and the lower arm. Has anyone had a bolt break? Paranoid... yes

    Gordon

    02 4.7 Auto 4wd QC
  • jhorljhorl Posts: 89
    Yes, I did use the spacers. Without them on the clearance was too tight. Before I sold the Dakota I had no problems.
  • traumagastraumagas Posts: 64
    Well approx 8000 miles ago I placed new TRW Powerstop rotors along with Ceramic pads on the truck. which is 2001 quad 4.7 with HD & trailer tow pkg, 11 inch rear drums (wish I had DISC on the rear like Later Models)
       I now have warped rotors again whats up with that, I am easy on equipment no harsh braking
    even use OD on off for down shifting to assist.
       The wheels are orig no change in size of tires and truck is seldom loaded. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thought TRW was a good route any other makes of rotors out there that may
    be better?
      PS the rotors have never had Impact on them only Torqued

    Thanks Jon
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    (traumagas) Are you *SURE* that the rotors are warped? (By way of measuring the runout with approprate equipment)

    Judging from your description of being "easy" on the brakes, it is far more likely that you have a buildup of grunge on the rotors. (not visible to the eye) This causes the brake rotors to have uneven coefficent of friction on various areas of its surface. This is known to cause a "pulsing feeling" when braking. HOWEVER, Unlike warped rotors, this "pulsing feeling" is not felt in the brake pedal nor in the steering wheel.

    The "fix" for grungy brake rotors is to perform some HEAVY braking and make sure you let some smoke out. This should then be followed by about 30 minutes of continious driving to cool the brake components.

    I find a need to do this every 4-6 months. I drive up a steep hill (several miles to a ski area base-lodge) then accellerate down the hill stopping often with VERY heavy braking. When I get to the bottom, the brakes can be smelled. This burns off the oils and other crud imbedded in the rotors. Followed by 30 minutes of cooldown driving (continous), the brake pedal feel more solid and that funky "pulsing feeling" is gone for another several months.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Yeah, Bpeebles description is pretty accurate and with that few miles I suspect he's right.

    Most of the grunge I see on rotors, not just Dakotas, but others, too (my wife's Avalon does the same thing), is caused by rust that forms very lightly on the rotor surfaces overnight or anytime the vehicle is parked for a period. In fact, "easy" driving (like mine and yours) seems to make it worse.

    This rust scum piles up on one linear area of the rotor surface and takes a while to get burnt off by friction. I occasionally hard stop to get rid of the pulsing, but not as hard as Bpeebles does it. On trips over ten or fifteen miles my 2003 doesn't seem to experience it much. But my work commute is just under five miles one way, plus a half-dozen little quarter-mile hops on company property. For me the Monday through Friday routine is prone to do what I think your's might be doing.

    I have 23K on my factory brakes and the scuz build-up problem is just starting to become annoying. My pads look great. I haven't measured the rotors yet, but they are not whipped. Since in recent years I've just had bad luck trying to get a good and successful resurfacing on rotors, I'll probably just install new ones when I have to re-pad.

    Try cleaning the rotor surfaces with some heavy sandpaper. Don't use too much force and don't try to make them shinny. You just want to remove rough areas. I wouldn't be surprised if the pulsing goes away.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • haselhasel Posts: 64
    Go with the Brembo rotors they seem to have taken care of my problems, had no luck with the Raybestos Ceramic Linings or Rotors, on my Toyotas I got 108000 miles on my front pads, so am not hard on brakes, am back to using the the OEM pads that came with truck.
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    Do you know if AAM got the contract for axles for Dakotas?
    I was poking around at the dealer today (closed on Sunday in PA) and the rear ends of the Daks (v-8 equipped) didn't look like the Dana unit mine had.
    I did see on the heavy half ton rams, the AAM logo on the cover, but I could not see it on the Dak axles.
    The new Durango had a totally different axle, perhaps made by DC itself, than I have ever seen.

    The rest of the rig left a bit to be desired in terms of execution and styling.
  • ronslakieronslakie Posts: 58
    traumagas - Are the TRW power stop rotors you have the cross drilled version. I recently bought these after reading some good reviews but haven't installed them yet.

    Ron
    Springfield, VA
  • traumagastraumagas Posts: 64
    Well
      I tried the above recommendation on build up and I am sure my rotors are warped. I feel it in both pedal and wheel. My rotors Are the Slotted not drilled. I have ceramic pads. Will be looking for a new set of rotors which brand to buy now. Are these rotors just not big enough for this truck ? Do you guys with 4 wheel disc have the problem ? or is the braking better and more equal since it is 4 wheel disc.
      Thanks again for all comments
      Jon
This discussion has been closed.