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Dodge Dakota - FAQs

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I would suspect that the cold temperatures are aggravating an already pre-existing condition. My first guess would be a defective sending unit.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • ja812ja812 Posts: 33
    what is the fastest you can go on the expressway for any length of time without doing any damage to the components of the 4wd?
  • I am the new owner of a 2002 Quad Cab and would like to know how I could acquire a build sheet on my truck. I have no idea which rear end it has and whether or not it's a posi-trac setup. Thanks in advance.
  • haselhasel Posts: 64
    you should find it on thr glove box door, not build sheet but the info you want. hasel
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Chrysler use to leave a "Production Broadcast" sheet under the front carpet on cars. Don't know if they ever did that with trucks, but the broadcast sheet had all kinds of need information.

    What Hasel described is called the "Equipment Identification Plate." Although the Dakota service manual says this is located on the "left front of the inner hood panel," Hasel is correct that your 2002 should have it on the inside of the glove box door.

    There is a "Body Code Plate" and the service manual says it is spot welded to the floor pan under the passenger seat on Dakotas. You must remove the seat to view this. This plate will give you other information such as interior trim (color) code, primary and secondary paint codes, engine code, transmission code, market code, etc.

    There's a Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label on the underside of the hood on the right side. This provides some engine family, timing, sparkplug type and gap, and idle speed info.

    There is also a Vehicle Safety Certification Label (VSCL) located on the front facing door jamb of the driver's front door. This contains the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR) and Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR), the Vehicle Identification Number, rim size, tire size as shipped from the factory, number of axles, tire inflation pressures. It also contains the build date by month, day, and hour (MDH), the primary paint code, country of origin, and trim codes.

    Good luck with your new Dakota.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • jodyjody Posts: 4
    My ABS, and brake warning lamps came on, and my speedometer died at the same time... I'm thinking the rear wheel speed senser is out, cause frome their the wires go to the ABS system, which in turn senses the problem and shuts itself off. When I put a volt meter in series w/ the 10 amp fuse slot (for the ABS), I read a partial short... Anybody know if I'm on the right track?
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    If this is a part time 4wd system and a dry highway, you've already broken something as soon as you've flipped that switch or pulled the lever.
  • Yes, I have the same problem on my 1995 dakota
    I fixed it once and it is leaking again some two years later. The dealership is useless. They just take more money and know results. Try contacting Dodge national customer service manager in Detroit, Michigan. They have helped me with other things, and got the dealer to cover some repairs.
  • I have a 1995 dakota 5.2 v8 and have had the same problem at about the exact same time (mileage).
    I went with the mopar over autozone. Dodge warranties part and labor for 12 months or 12 thousand miles. With Autozone you save money but what's the reliability? and Warranty? They probably warranty the part but not labor. I don't think you'll find anybody to warranty the labor if the part goes, unless you do it your self. Good luck it's your call.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am trained in electronics and have been using DVMs (Digital Volt Meters) for over 25 years.

    When you say ". When I put a volt meter in series w/ the 10 amp fuse slot (for the ABS), I read a partial short... Anybody know if I'm on the right track?"

    I am not clear what you are expecting to measure and what reading you are seeing.

    A "VoltMeter" cannot measure a "short" (That would be done with an OHMmeter)

    If you are truly putting a VoltMeter in "series" with a fuse, then you are not measuring anything very meaningful. (I would expect that you would measure battery voltage if the key were turned on) I am wondering how in the world you got a voltmeter in "series" with a fuse. (most folks measure voltage across or "parallel" to a fuse)

    If one measures in "series" with a fuse, it is usually CURRENT (amps) that would be measuerd. This value is most often measured if a fuse were constantly blowing. I would NOT recommend a novice to be making this measurement. (easy to fry your meter)

    This leads me to ask some additional questions so I understand the conditions under which you are making measurements.

    *)Why are you taking this measurement?
    *)What voltage are you reading for each position of the keyswitch?
    *)Do you have 2wheel or 4wheel ABS on your Dak?

    I would not recommend that you mess with the ABS system very much. Failure of the ABS system may compromize your safety.

    If you really wish to take some meaningful measurements, why not unscrew that sensor from the rear axle and test it with an ohmmeter on the bench? (2 wheel ABS only)
  • Hi everybody! I just found the Dakota board and signed up. I don't know the rules of the road re: etiquette on this board, so I hope I don't step on anybody's toes.

    I bought a 2001 Dakota Sport Extended Cab 4x4 with the 4.7 V8 today (Intense Blue) with 46,000 miles on it. It's the first truck I've ever bought, and its the truck I've always wanted, so I'm real excited about it!

    I have a couple of questions, and I was wondering if anybody could help me out. (Sorry if these have been posted before and I didn't find them on the search)

    1. Where can I get an owner's manual? Is it possible to download a PDF online, or is hard copy the only thing available? The truck came with everything but that, and not only do I not know the maintenance schedule, I can't even set the darn clock on the CD player!

    2. Are there any well known problems that I should watch out for (because its a 4x4, or problems with the 4.7 engine, or problems in general for the 2001 model)?

    Thanks for any help you can give!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    WELCOME!

    I have a 2000 Dak 4X4 and had the dealer throw in the shop manual. It is at least 3 inches thick and explains most of the mechanical systems in great detail. Either pay full price at a Dodge dealer or check out Ebay. Oftentiomes these can be found there.

    Known problems?...
     The 4.7L engine has been pretty bulletproof. Change the 6-quarts of oil every 5K miles and it will outlast the truck.

    There is an "issue" with water-oil emulsion (AKA snot) buildup in the oil-fill tube. This is most evident in cooler weather. About once a week, remove the oil-fill cap and pull out the "baffle" (about 6-inch long insert inside the oil-fill tube). I can saturate 3 paper towles with the water that builds up in there.

    Be prepared to replace the front brakes/rotors more frequently than with other vehicles. If you install the best components you can find, it will help.

    original shock absorbers are cr$p. Mine wore out and were leaking in a year. Most folks install "Edelbrock IAS" which are perhaps the best available for the Dak.

    If you replace all gear oils (front/rear diff, xfer case.) with RedLine, you can get about 2-4 more MPG.
      
    A/C can be a bit whimpy, I have improved my A/C with some pipe-insulation. Ask if you want details.

    The 2001 was somwhat "cheepened" by Dodge, the spare is not the same aluminum wheel as the other 4. The insulation under the hood was not installed on most 2001s. ... I can go on but you get the idea.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    Welcome, I have an '01 CC 2WD 4.7. You can get an owners manual from Techauthority.com for $10.00 and the Service Manual is $90.00 (hard copy or CD) if you are into your own maintenance. I don't know of any place that you can download from. To set the clock look for the letters "H" and "M" on the face of the radio at the top right. There are two little buttons that you just push in on. I use a toothpick. Let us know if you have any other problems.
                                           Dick
  • Bruce - Thanks for the advice. Its great to hear that the 4.7 is a good engine. I like the idea on switching to RedLine. I switched to all synthetics on my previous ride (an Eagle Talon TSI AWD) and it definitely made a difference. Plus, I'm a firm believer on clean fluids and synthetics. The shocks are crap, just like you said. Do the Edelbrocks help eliminate the bucking I get when going over rough pavement?

    Dick - Thanks for the tip on clock changing and owners manual info. I've now got both in hand.

    Vic
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    YES! The Edelbrock IAS shocks absolutely ELIMINATE the "bucking" over rough pavement.

    My dak had got to the point wheras over expansion joints (on bridges) the reazr end would "buck" about 4-6 inches to the side. This was VERY scary at 65MPH. Alsom I could not accelelrate over rough pavement because the rear wheels would "buck" all over the place.

    After switching to the Edelbrock IAS absorbers, the rear end stays planted. I can acclerate at full-throttle in second gear and the rear end just 'squats' a little bit over the rough stuff.... but it NEVER "bucks" anymore.

    As a bonus, the special valving in the Edelbrock IAS, actually improves cornering and braking because the absorbers are "smart enough" to remain "stiff" under those conditions.

    Make no mistake, the Edelbrock IAS are a high-pressure MONOTUBE shock absorber. Not the cheaper design of a dual tube with low pressure in it. Also, the Edelbrock IAS patented valves require them to be installed "upside down" from what other absorbers normally are. This places the valves on the lower MOVING part of the mechinism. This allows a built-in weight to "sense" the accelleration of the wheel and instanty adjust the valves to control the wheel movement.
  • These shocks sound almost too good to be true. Where did you find the best price for them?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I got my Edelbrock IAS from http://www.shockwarehouse.com/

    Their price was competitive and their website is very informative.
  • I appreciate the info!

    Do you know of anybody that's put an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system or aftermarket cold air kit on a 4.7 Dakota? I'm wondering if its worth the money.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have the BORLA cat-back on my 4.7L Dak. It sounds good on the outside but remains un-obtrusive on the inside. The main reason I went with the BORLA is because of their "Million Mile Warantee". It is made from the very best stainless steel and I want it to last for at least 12 years. (The factory "stainless" system is rotting in my back yard.)

    My BORLA system has been thru several Vermont winters and has no rust at all.

    A couple of things to consider when you look for cat-back system for the 4.7L.
    1) Any more that 2.5inch diamater may LOSE power.
    2) The so-called "dual" systems with 2 pipes from the muffler back add more weight and are not as good as a SINGLE pipe.

    As far as INTAKES go, here are a few of my many links that I have bookmarked. Some are homemade and some are bolt-on. (I have a homemade one.)

    http://www.360airintakez.com/
    http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/articles.php?do=coldair
    http://members.aol.com/bsbets/truck/intake1.jpg
    http://www.geocities.com/intense79/intake.html

    Here is perhaps the very best intake for the 4.7L. (The "Z-tube")
    http://www.intenseperformance.com/

    Here is a bolt-on SUPERCHARGER kit for the 4.7L:
    http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?id=50
  • I'am new to this form but not new to dodge dakota's I now have a 2004 4.7l 5 speed . Here's the problems #1 up shift light is inop . I was told by the dealer the light will come when you turn the key on but it's not suppose to work . Can any one confirm this????. The second problem is with the heater controls . When i select floor heat only. I get heat out of the defrost vent and the floor . The service rep said that all dakota's do that . Neither of these answers sound right. any help will be welcome thanks
  • I think the dealer may be telling the truth.

     

    My 2000 Dakota Quad with the 4.7 5 speed manual did not have the upshift light either. I believe that was used on the 4 or 6 cylinder motors only.

     

    When my heater was set for on the floor I remember heat still coming from the defroster vents for the side windows.

     

    I traded for a Ram 1500 in 2003 so I'm working from memory. Rick
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I can't comment on the manual upshift lamp since I have an automatic.

     

    In my '03 Dakota there is a small amount of air movement coming from the side window demisters when the heater mode switch is in the 'floor heat' position. At the moment I'm not sure about air coming out of the windshield defroster outlet, but let me say that I've found the Dakota is very quick to have the windshield mist up when in the floor heat mode. I usually run it in the floor-defroster split mode to prevent this. Maybe on the 2004s they increased some air movement through to the windshield to eliminate this problem.

     

    Best regards,

    Dusty
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Rick is correct. i wondered where the upshift light was when I received my 2000 QC, 4.7 5 speed. I had one on my 1995 Extended Cab, 318 5 speed. I checked with Dodge and it was not available with my present configuration. Happy new year.

     

    Bookitty
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Upshift light was operatable when you got the 2.5L I-4 engine with its 5 sp manual (no auto). I'm looking at my 2000 sales brochure - fun what you save.
  • rebel1rebel1 Posts: 2
    Iowabigguy,dustyk,bookitty,and spike50 .Thanks for your come back on the up shift indicator and the heater questions. This is my second Dakota, and about my 8th chrysler product.I've had more odd ball problems on the two Dakota's than the other 7 cars and trucks. I like the truck it has 7800 miles on it. I'am now wondering if i should try another make of truck ????

            Thank again

           Happy New Year to all, and the best of luck for the coming year.

           Wayne
  • shansenshansen Posts: 1
    Just drove it home. When you start it up, the info center has a light that has SECURITY. I only got a key, no manual. Light goes out like the other check lights. Am I missing a remote? Does the key have a chip? If I am missing something, where can I get it?

    Thanks!!!
  • studlygtstudlygt Posts: 1
    hey I have 2000 dodge dakota and i have a noise that sounds like a grind knockong sound like it coming for the motor sounds like a know but it only dose it when you hit the gas really quick and it seems to come frow the pasenger side i was told it was some kind of a pump just wondered if you here it in you truck if you could email me at StudlyGT500@cs.com
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,014
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  • mikkimikki Posts: 1
    My husband bought a 2005 Dakota SLT Quad Cab that he absolutely LOVES. Or at least he did, until he discovered water leaking from under the dash onto the passenger side floor. We've had the truck a month. The dealer told us that this model is not intended to be parked on an incline; if it is and it rains, the truck will leak. Since we live in Seattle, where it's very hilly and rains 9 months of the year, this is not an acceptable answer. Has anyone out there heard of anything so ridiculous?

    We're getting the truck back tonight. Supposedly, they've made and installed some sort of baffle that will deflect the rainwater out to the sides and keep it from coming into the truck. I don't even know where to go with this. Thanks for any advice/information!
  • saabgirlsaabgirl Posts: 184
    Both Chevy Colorado and Toyota Tacoma threads also have complaints about similar leaks. In the Chevy's case the problem seems to be an unfinished seal under the windshield. I think other posters reported a hole in the sheet metal that had to be plugged. I would guess a defective seal somewhere under there is the problem. I would take the dealer's explanation with a very large helping of salt and would call the Dakota 800 number for good measure.
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