Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Dodge Dakota - Club Cab

191012141517

Comments

  • I want to the change the gear ratio in my 98 Dakota 318 from 3.55 to 3.92. Will this effect the speedometer? And is the ring and pinion gears the only gears I would have to change? Thank you for any advice.
  • rascalrascal Posts: 26
    You guys are pros...
    98 SLT 5.2L V8, Club Cab, loaded. Hard cover on the bed..60k miles
    is $10,500 a good deal for this? Truck belonged to my bro-in-law who just suddenly passed away. Car has had excellent maintenance.
    I would like to buy it if you folks think its a good deal.
    Please share your thoughts here or email me at:
    Thanks!

    rascal2064@yahoo.com
  • bja4bja4 Posts: 67
    I paid $11,000 for a 92 Dakota Sport 4x4 back in 1996. The truck had the following: 318, bright package(chrome), Mopar off-road light bar, power everything, 3.92 rear end, split rear window, cruze, and 4 spd auto. The truck also had low millage at 32K miles.
    If the truck had 4WD, It would be worth it. 4WD holds its value a little better. I sold my old truck in 99 with 67K miles on it for $8200. It had $1200 worth of hail damage on it.
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    I have a 2001 with 5,000 miles and it is the only vechicle I ever owned that you can wash your feet while driving.

    Compartment floods (passenger side).

    Brought it to dealer and after two days of water testing they replaced Pillar in A-frame.

    One week later carpet was saturated.

    Brought it back and mechanics admitted thy were stumped?

    Chrysler stated they are aware of the problem and said evaporator and evaporator housing has to be replaced along with my carpeting.

    Of course these parts are not available and I was told it would take another week. In the meantime the cab smells, and the windows fog quickly and my grandchildren love playing in the water. All I need is to provide sand and pretend were at the beach.

    What disturbs me why these certified mechanics didn't get it right the first time. Carpets clearly showed stains most likely chemical in origin.

    Would like to know if AC fan is supposed to run continuously? Enjoy your discussions! Appreciate the advice.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Sorry to hear of your water woes. You did not specify but I assume that this flooding takes place while it is NOT raining outside? Are you saying that the drain for the evaporator is plugged up?

    To answer your question about the AC fan... I need some more info...specifically WHAT fan are you asking about? Is there a fan under your dashboard that runs continously? The only fan I am aware of that runs ALL THE WHILE THE AC IS TURNED ON is the supplamental electric fan attached to the radiator. Is this the one you are asking about?
  • ahasherahasher Posts: 236
    that the A/C aux fan (electric) what you asked about? (bpeebles question post 338).. if so, I had to add that from recent personal experience the fan should NOT run ALL the time, as in after the engine is off. ;-) By the time I got the fan disabled, I had a melted fan relay and fuse box.. and a 2- week wait for a fusebox/wireharness transplant. My point.. watch that fan and check relays often .. I know of only 1 other post on stuck/burned fan relay.. so I guess I have the honor of bring it up to inform others.. and if you read back posts, bpeebles added good technical info on relays and wiring along the way...
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    hairydog: You may be right about the quality of the mechanics, but I suspect that the weather there has been rainy or at least humid. The problem sounds like the evaporator is not draining properly. If this is the case, there is no 'chemicals' to be in the water. The only way that there could be chemicals in the water is if the heater unit is leaking coolant. Since you have not mentioned your radiator constantly going dry, I would assume that this is not the case. There is a number of things that could be wrong or a combination of problems because we are talking complex mechanical systems.

    We love to bad mouth the quality of mechanics, but the reality is that we try to encourage our kids to aspire to the 'good' white collar jobs and most kids today are wanting to get into a computer related job. As things get more complex, our best and brightess are being told that there is no future for them in being a mechanic or machinist. We are facing a severe shortage in these fields and it is getting ready to bite us.
  • gjblegjble Posts: 23
    I had a water leak on the passenger side of my ext cab 2001 a while back after a rain. A real flood inside. The dealer farms out water leaks but they sealed something ( They didn't say what or where) and I haven't had any problems since.They only had the truck one day. I thought at first that the AC was causing the problem but I am convinced now it was a genuine leak around the door area. Hope this is usefull.

    In Atlanta
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    Sorry gentleman, I should have been more specific regarding problems.

    AC fan that I was referring to is the auxillary fan. It only runs (loud) when the AC is on. I believe Mr. Peebles has answered the question. Apparently I have never owned a vechicle with this setup.

    Flooding problem occurs only when AC is running. Dealer literaly flooded vechicle with water to initially determine if external water (rain) was the problem. They (mechanics) decided the Pillar was defective and replaced it. Less than a week later flooding of floorboard was found by my grandchildren.

    Stain on my rubber mat was clearly chemical in origin. I just scrubbed it off today. It caused my black rubber mats to turn ashen gray. I am assuming whatever is coming from the AC?

    Yes I did check the radiator as suggested and it is static. No problem there.

    Since I am not mechanically inclined or knowledgeable on the internal workings of the evaporator housing and associated plug this is foreign to me.
    This is what the dealer and Chrysler has decided is the problem. I was told maybe next Tuesday the parts will be available along with new carpet. To date dealer has had vechicle four days with this particular problem.

    We certainly appreciate your responses to date, it has been most informative.

    I spent two hours last evening reading every message posted regarding Dodge Dakota's. I must say I am humbled by the knowledge each of you possess. My field is science and consumes my time. I envy those of you who have the skills to address auto mechanics and willing to share your skills. In this nation auto mechanics is not a requiste in owning a vechicle. Just turn the key and go.

    Once again, we thank you for your interest and rapid response and will look forward to reading the posted messages.
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    Well the saga continues regarding the flooding.
    I brought my vechicle in on Tuesday as directed, and was told the parts are in but the technician with the skills to work was off sick. Okay, I can wait another day except it was July fourth and the dealership would be closed. So I took it in on Thursday the fifth of July at the crack of dawn. I was told it would be ready by closing. Dealer never called. I called on the sixth of July and was told by service manager they had bad news. I went to dealership and what I saw was a sight I never will forget. The complete interior was stripped and laid out on the ground. Dash board, panels, carpet. and windshield. I thought at first my vechicle was in a wreck.

    The service manager then began to explain that they discovered leaks from front windshield, door, and AC. More parts needed to be ordered!

    If you have been following my posts, you will now find my first experience resulted in a Pillar in the A-frame followed by evaporator housing, evaporator plug and now another whatcha ma call it.

    Now this vechicle has just 5,000 miles on the odometer. I will leave it up to you to judge the quality that went into my 2001 Dodge Dakota CC 4x4 and the skills or lack of them in resolving the problem.

    I know water leaks can be a problem to track, but this a soap opera in the making. I can't help but wonder what other quality part is lurking in the wings. What can I expect tommorow?

    Now I am told it will be Monday before parts arrive.
  • kruzerkruzer Posts: 9
    I'm the frustrated new owner of a 01 Club Cab. I bought it less than 3 weeks ago, new. I got a great deal. It's an SLT 4x4, with the 4.7, all the Heavy Duty bells and whistles. I got one extra that I didn't order, however. As I type this, my truck is back at the dealer for THIRD service with same problem. This is all within 3 weeks and less than 600 miles.

    Seems the computer says there is an "evaporative system leak". First time they replaced the sensor pump. Next, the purge solenoid. This time the jury is still out (along with my truck). The truck drives fine. It is just a major inconvenience having to drop off a BRAND NEW truck, literally every week to leave for a day or three.

    Me being "mechanically challenged", my question is... Evaporative System seems to be only involved with emissions type issues. Is this correct? Service Manager described it as just a diagnostic tool for onboard computer.

    BTW, I will be starting my State's "Lemon Law" procedures if the dreaded light comes back on. So far the dealership is very polite; but equally incompetent at finding root of problem. Maybe with Daimler/Chrysler ticked off at my 5 Star dealer, they will become smarter??
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    By any chance did you change the gas cap to a locking version? If you did, did you get it from Dodge?

    The reason I ask is that I did thios and had the same problem. Turned out that for 2001 the cap was changed but part stores only list to 2000. 2000- cap is different. It will fit but you will get a leak.

    When I went back to the OEM cap everything went back to normal. Luckily Stant Mfg. was nice and exchanged my wrong locking cap with a correct one. Everything is fine now.
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    I can only sympathize with your problem. It is frustrating to have your vechicle sitting at the dealer wondering do these people really know what their doing.

    After reading every post regarding Dodge I am not sure if I made the right choice. I am concerned as to what else my vechicle will experience in the months or more likely weeks ahead.
    I have yet to take my Dodge off road yet and put it through it paces.

    I live to deer hunt, and this fall my Dodge had better be up to the challenge or I will replace it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    To answer your (only?) question;

    The EEC test. (Everaptive Emissions Control) is PERFORMED by the onboard computer. A brief explanation of its operation follows

    This diagnostic is performed in 2 parts only under specific conditions.

    1) An air pump actually creates a slight pressure in the air in the fuel tank. A verification is made to ensure that this pressure is held.(ie...no leaks exist)

    2) A more critical test is performed on how fast this pressure "bleeds down" under specific
    conditions.

    The onboard computer controls the air pump, several solenoids and a couple of servos to perform these tests.

    As namfflow suggests.... Leaving your gas cap loose after filling with fuel will DEFINATLY cause the tests to fail and the trouble light to come on.

    For more info ... please take this discussion to the Dakota Maintenance Forum.
  • kruzerkruzer Posts: 9
    That was the first thing the dealer tried. They just tightened cap and reset light. The light was on the next morning when I turned on truck. If I were to count that "off the record" try, then I would be up to number 4. I will go by dealership today and see if there is an update. Thanks for all the advice. Hopefully things will get sorted out soon..
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    It surely is a dissapointment when a brand new truck needs work. Must have been heartbreaking to see your truck stripped out like that.
    Give the dealer a chance to properly fix it right for you. There is always the lemon law...etc if they can't get you up and running again.
    My Quad cab had a bad window regulator right off the lot. It got fixed under warranty.
    It is a bummer being without the truck but give them a chance to fix it.
  • shawnh2shawnh2 Posts: 13
    Just a question...I noticed in the owners manual, DC recommends to replace the rear axle oil with either a heavier duty oil or a synthetic if the vehicle is used for towing. I do some light towing and was considering having this completed by the dealer at the next oil change. My question is this: is this a big job? what should I expect in the way of cost?

    Thanks,
    Shawn
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    When I read the owners manual, it seems to indicate that towing up to 2000 lbs, that there is no need for fluid change.

    I may have to help a friend out and tow his boat to my house. It may be over the 2k lbs.

    Would it hurt to tow it one way less than 15 miles without the fluid change? I will definately take it easy on this trip.

    Also, should a person get the front axle fluid changed as well, if it is a 4x4?

    Thank you for any input.
    Bob
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your dealer has the tools to diagnose the problem and isolate it to a specific failure mechanism. (There is a question of if the skills are available tho...)

    One thing you can do is to "pull" the troublecode for yourself and write it down. To do this, just turn the keyswitch from OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (three iterations ending in ON without turning the starter at all)

    This initiates a diagnostic sequence that parses the onboard computer memory for any logged troublecodes. You can watch the process on the display that is normally the odometer. After several seconds of running the diagnostic, any logged troublecodes will be displayed on this display. Anyone with a shop manual can "decode" the troublecode for you.

    BTW I had the EEC failure myself which WAS NOT the gas cap either. A porcupine nibbled on several hoses under my truck. The dealer had to order an entire new hose assembly from the engine to the gastank. (I am very grateful that he covered it under warantee :-) 5 STAR DOES HAVE SOME GOOD POINTS!
  • kruzerkruzer Posts: 9
    Well, I started this thread here so I'll finish(?) it here. Dealer had made third attempt to fix my EEC problem. So far light is still only visible when doing normal cycle at crank up. Yeah!! Here's to keeping my fingers crossed.

    BTW, the problem this time is being claimed by dealership. They say a "mechanic" must have messed up a vacumn hose when they changed out EEC sensor pump first time. If they say Human error, that would seem to preclude warranty issues. No problem really. I just want my truck to run smoothly.

    Hey thanks bpeebles for that diagnostic tip with the keyswitch. That will help me keep my mind at ease if I can "check up" on my dealer. I shouldn't be so untrusting but have heard the Urban Legends of dealers just disabling pesky problem lights.
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    Five days later on my third try to fix the flooding I finally got my vechicle back. I see by the invoice my Dak was sent to a sublet for glass/repair.
    Invoice states AC system leaks. Replaced evaporator coil evac and recharge system co.
    Parts: Housing E., Housing H., Evaporator, seal kit,carpet floor,seal front,adhesive and seal package.
    Tommorow it will be 90 degrees and a forecast of severe thunderstorms. You can bet I will have the air cranked up and I will drive through the storms with my eyes on the carpet.
    Thanks for the help. We appreciate it.
  • hairydoghairydog Posts: 44
    Happy to report the leaking has stopped.

    I have driven through some wicked storms with my A/C cranked up and haven't had a drop of water in the cab.

    What I have noticed that is different, I can visually see water puddling on my driveway once it is parked. Obviously it is coming from the A/C.

    Prior to being repaired I observed only a few drops from the A/C on the driveway.

    Thanks folks for your assistance. It was greatly appreciated.
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    in hip waders to drive your rig.
    Sounds like the boys on the assembly line kinda got in a hurry the day they built yours.
    Best of luck in the future on AC performance
  • pyreardonpyreardon Posts: 2
    Howdy all!

    Well for the last month or so I have been reading the reviews, checking out the plusses and minuses, checking on costs and now I have gone and done it. Yesterday I drove the 2 hours (110 miles) to purchase my 2001 Dakota Club Cab, 4.7 V8, Auto, SLT +, red and silver. Of course no one for 80 miles around my area had the CC V8 SLT+ so I had to drive.
    I did an internet sale/purchase and picked up the Dakota for $18,117 after rebate + TT&L, absolutely no additional charges. They got invoice plus $150 or so and their "advertizing" bump. I guess I could have fought a bit more but overall I think it was generally fair - perhaps I am wrong??--hope not!

    Anyway, all the way home I looked at the floor to check for water leaks, check and recheck my engine light, felt for problems with auto - slamming from 2nd to 3rd......sheesh reading everyones negative comments got me paranoid....hahaha!

    But no problems. I'm sure the truck will be alright and without problems. I have a grin on my face and think I will end this and go out for a spin :) Nice to join the group!
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Dean, congratulations and good luck with your new truck. You will love it. Check out all of the Dodge Dakota owners pages and the Dodge Dakota Quad Cab as well There is always information exchanged that is apropos for all of the Dodge Dakotas as well as a good deal of general stuff that applies to any/all vehicles. Welcome to the club.

    Bookitty
  • gjblegjble Posts: 23
    I thought my leak had returned.The carpet was wet but the floor mat was not. The dealer checked for leaks but there wasn't one. Turns out the pad under the carpet is enclosed with plastic and was saturated with the water from the previous real leak and when a passenger stepped on the floor water would be squeezed out onto the carpet I am getting all new carpet and pads when they come in. I asked for a new truck but the service department said they wern't theirs to give away..I toought I'd try.

    In Atlanta
  • kruzerkruzer Posts: 9
    Congrats on the purchase. I'm the one with the never ending Engine Light. Any new vehicle can have a Gremlin to work out. The dealer claimed that their improper work caused both the return trips after the first fix. I LOVE my truck. Even with the hassles I had. I would Definitely do it again.

    Hope you enjoy your CC!

    Travis
  • pyreardonpyreardon Posts: 2
    Thanks everyone for the congrats on my new truck. Now if I could only sell my car..haha

    When I bought the truck I didn't trade in my car at the dealership. So Friday night I drove my truck happily home. On Sat., my sales associate and another driver drove my car back to me (110 mi) at no charge!

    Now I need to look for a decent bedliner. I've heard that Duraliner is the way to go. Not sure I want a spay in liner as it can never be removed and can chip. I'll have to call around and see who sells the Duraliner.
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    Some of you have experienced a rattling noise in the front end of your Dakotas without a resolution. Well, I had to take my 01 Dakota in to the dealer because the inner fender well was coming out. It turns out it is a part that just snaps in place. Once it was snapped back into place I noticed that when going over speed bumps and the like there was more noise in the front. Apparently there is a slight amount of movement in the inner fender well and this is making the noise. So for me at least it isn't something to worry about.

    It may be the case for some of you. You can probably check it by playing around with it.
  • kruzerkruzer Posts: 9
    I put in the Rhino Liner. I love it. I actually wanted a "softer" liner as I am more likely to move furniture and such for my better half than rocks, nails, etc... The Rhino seemed less abrasive than Line-x, or Speedliner (no experience with Duraliner). It also has a lifetime warranty....(see below) YMMV.

    I would think that most any "name brand liner" would work well. The biggest variable is the installer. There are a lot of horror stories from putting in Brand-X with an installer that doesn't know what they are doing. Also, will the installer cover repairs/warranty work? Get references!

    Travis
This discussion has been closed.