Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2009 Honda Civic

11315171819

Comments

  • sr1945sr1945 Posts: 38
    TTL stands for Tax, Title and Lic fee's

    Black Book is what the dealerships normally look at, not the Kelly Blue Book and the dealership normally always try to give you Average not the Clean Price, which is normally about a thousand or more over Average depending on the condition of your car. They tried that with me on a one year old honda Accord and then changed it to Clean when I brought this to their attention.

    Not only that, the mileage will play a part as well. Low mileage gives you more money and more mileage then normal you will take a bigger hit.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,715
    I don't mean this to sound harsh, but you made one of the biggest mistakes a car buyer can make: you told the sales rep that you want a payment "under $XXX." And of course they came back with $299/month, which is what you asked for. But is it a good deal? Instead, you should negotiate the price of the new car, the EX, as low as you can get it (note that other buyers are getting some deals on 2009 Civics), THEN bring up the trade as a separate transaction and see what they will give you for it. That is the only way you'll know what deal they are giving you on the new car, and what value your trade has.

    Or... since the Hybrid is such a great car with great fuel economy and has an extended warranty, why not just keep it? :surprise:
  • I have the following quotes from a dealer in NYC but can't really decide which one is better. Please advise and let me know if they are indeed good deals:

    USED, NOT CERTIFIED
    2006 EX AT Sedan, 36k miles: $15,200
    I saw the car and it looks in very good condition.
    The CarFax report came out clean. One owner.

    NEW: 2009:
    4D SEDAN AT LX: $17200 including destination charge.
    Other only fees are TTL.

    4D SEDAN AT LX S: $17,750 including destination charge.
    Other only fees are TTL.

    No matter what car I buy, I would finance. I have excellent credit and I'm sure I'll qualify for the 1.9%, 36 months or 3.9% 60 months. I have no idea what APR I would get if I get the used one.

    Are these good deals? Am I better off buying used or new given these offers? I'm afraid that if I buy used, once I add any extended warranty and probably pay a higher APR, the price would probably be as much as buying new.

    Any probability that Honda APR would go even lower (0%?) after 1/09?

    Please advise. This forum is great.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I've never been a fan of Hondas as used cars as I just don't feel the value is there, so I'd stay new. Both the prices on the new vehicles seem decent, so I'd give my business to the one that has been the most upfront and professional, assuming both dealers are equally conveniently close to you.
  • I am also looking for an LX Sedan or LX-S Sedan. Can you let me know which dealership in NYC gave you these quotes? Thanks.
  • mth2mth2 Posts: 25
    Has anyone out there purchased a 2009 SI Sedan? I was wondering how you like it - other than the new car euphoria, have you had any issues or concerns? I heard there was a problem with the throttle in 3rd gear ( I don't know enough about that kind of thing to know what that really means) where the throttle "sticks" ?

    Thanks!
  • Hi, Ski353

    I'd have to go through my email to double-check the dealer. I've received so many quotes from different dealers that I'm starting to lose track. I'm sure I can find it, though. What if we can join forces and probably go to this dealer and request an even lower deal?

    Let me know if you have any idea of how we can go about this.

    Thanks.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    What if we can join forces and probably go to this dealer and request an even lower deal?

    That question has been asked quite a bit on different forums here and the consensus is that it won't help you. Buying more than one vehicle at the same time is still treated like seperate purchases.
  • Does anyone know where you can find invoice price for the accessories (lip spoiler, fog lights, etc.)?
  • i paid $20,000 (destination charge included) +TTL for a 2009 civic ex coupe last week in dallas.

    i didn't care for the extras but they were included:
    - 4 wheel locks nuts
    - tinted windows
    - trunk tray
    - moon roof visor

    does anyone know the invoice prices for the front, side and rear under spoiler? thinking of buying them.

    thanks...
  • Thanks, pretty good prices. There seemed to be no negotiation with accessories being added on when running through the numbers with the dealer for buying the car last week. In fact, he told me to buy them elsewhere because of the insane mark-up that Honda charges for the accessories and labor.
  • Hi Everyone!

    I will (hopefully) soon be a first time new car buyer and hoping that I can enlist your opinions regarding two vehicles that are in two completely different classes :blush: . I am currently torn between purchasing a 2009 Honda Civic EX-L with Nav, versus a comparably equipped Nissan Altima Coupe. Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! :)
  • dromandroman Posts: 18
    As much as I enjoy the looks of my Civic, the quality is horrible. Specifically body integrity (squeaks, rattles, interior plastics that scratch easily). Basically it feels like my '89 Prelude after 10 years and 100,000 miles, yet it only has 24,000 miles. If you can afford it, take the Altima. It is an absolutely gorgeous car. Although it (4 cylinder) doesn't perform as well as the Civic in terms of handling (the Civic feels "racier") the Altima leaves a much better taste in your mouth in terms of overall driving experience. You feel like you are driving something much more expensive. The Civic has the opposite effect. I feel like I am driving something much cheaper than the 21,000 G I paid for the car. If you can opt for the V6 version, forget about it the Civic. It shouldn't even enter your thoughts.
  • Thank you so much Droman! This is just the type of feedback/advice that I was looking for! Do you happen to know the Nissan's reliability/longevity compared to the Civic's? Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
  • lvtltnlvtltn Posts: 10
    Which month is the the best month to buy a new car? And which date and day of the month? Thanks for your input.
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    This is usually a good time of year to buy, as most folks aren't into buying big ticket items. In the process of buying a car right now for one of my kids and the showroom is kinda empty. The car with the option package she wants is very hard to find but there is one in our area. This recession that we're in isn't helping either.
    Contrary to what others are saying about the Civic, I still love mine even with the few warranty issues that honda has had to correct. Is it a pain to sit in the waiting room to get these things corrected...YES! But I bought a 1st year model...my bad, and things happen. But i felt...and still do, that it was the car that fit my needs...and wants perfectly. The only other cars I considered were the Volvo S40, a bit pricey, and the Nazda 3 which the wife owns.
    Great car overall.

    The Sandman :)
  • dromandroman Posts: 18
    Although I don't know about the resale value on the Altima coupe specifically, I would suspect that it is probably right up there with other imports (Mazda, Toyota, Honda, etc.) I suggest that you visit the Altima discussion board on this site to get more information from people who actually own the car. Good luck!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,715
    Probably the last month of any quarter i.e March, June, October, December is a good month to buy a new car. And a few days before the end of the month is the best time to buy, IMO. Some will say the last day of the month (or of the quarter) is the best day to buy, but I agree with those who say a few days earlier is better. Why? Because the maximum discounts will be available from dealers who are trying to reach special sales incentives for volume sold. If you go in on the last day of the month, and they've already made their incentives or are so far away they have no chance, the odds of getting a big discount are less than if the dealer is still working to get to the sales numbers that will trigger the incentive. I saw this first-hand a couple of months ago when I called a dealer to check on pricing on a Sonata, a few days before the end of the month. I was quoted an excellent price--not quite good enough to make me travel quite a distance to jump on it, but I was tempted. A few days later, right at the end of the month, other shoppers reported that the price quotes at that dealership had gone up.

    Or one could argue that in today's economic climate, with the auto market as depressed as it is, ANY day is a good day to buy a car. ;)
  • Sorry, I also posted in another portion, but thought it would not hurt to ask in this one.

    I will be shopping in Portland / Salem, OR.

    Can anyone tell me what the dealer invoice is for an EX, 2-door, manual trans?

    There opening offer is $19.1, thou I see in the other forums where peeps are picking them up for 17.5.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks ! ! ! :)
  • The Civic has an incredibly annoying alarm behavior, is there any way to modify it?

    This is for a 2009 Civic EX.

    The problem is this:
    1) I use the remote to unlock the car.
    2) I open the door, then I close the door.
    My previous Honda (Accord) would at this time disable the alarm for ever.
    But - the Civic again alarms after a few minutes. :(
    3) If now after a few minutes I open the door again, or if I'm inside if I start the car, in either case the alarm starts blaring. :mad:
    I've to click on unlock again to quieten the alarm.

    This is quite poor behavior - there are a few cases when I have to unlock the door and then do something else for a few minutes - like fix something in the car, or if outside, then remove snow from the car, etc.Seems like a very poor alarm implementation, is there something I'm missing - is there some way to permanently keep the alarm shut until I start the car after unlocking it?
  • dromandroman Posts: 18
    I think there is something wrong with your alarm. I have never experienced this problem. The only thing similar that my 06 Civic does is that if you use the remote to disable the alarm and don't open either door within 30 seconds the alarm will reset. However once you open either door within that timeframe the alarm should be disabled until you reset it. I say take it in to the dealership.
  • Well, I took my car into the dealer - took them 2 hours to understand the problem! The system is certainly behaving strangely - clicking the unlock button twice then opening the driver's door seems to disable the alarm. But clicking it just once only allows around 30 secs of time to open the door and start the car before the alarm starts blaring.

    Dealer took one more hour and could not fix it. They are stumped - so will be going back in later. This is a bummer... I suspect in cases like this the dealer is just going to try to keep swapping parts until it works...
  • Hi I test drove and put a deposit down on a Civic but I may be cancelling the deal.
    The problem is the front hood. It slopes down and I can't see the front of the hood.
    Can anyone give me some feedback on how it is driving like this. I'm short but I've spoken to other people and none of them can see the front hood. How can you park with no reference. Please help
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,715
    Many cars are like this due to streamlining for fuel economy. Consider that no matter what, you will not be able to see the front bumper, which is the key thing when parking. In short order you will learn how long the front of the car is. One thing you can do is, rather than aligning your front bumper with the front of the parking space, align your car with the front door e.g. A pillar or B pillar, of one of the cars next to you. Since the front of the Civic is so short, that will almost always give you plenty of cushion up front--unless maybe you are parked next to 2 Smart cars! :)
  • larsblarsb Posts: 8,204
    As previous posters said, you will VERY QUICKLY learn to judge how close to park to things.

    It's more of a feeling than an direct eye-to-eye comparison.

    I've learned that on about my last 4 cars.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm 6'5" and can't see the front of the hood in any car I've driven, save for full-size trucks, which are always quite squared off on the front. Minivan drivers never see the front of the hood. It's not a problem for most; with any new car, you have to learn where the boundaries are without physically seeing them from the driver's seat.

    It's been over 15 years since many sedans/coupes were made where you could see the front of the hood. Below are cars from the eighties, and then new models available today.

    image
    image
    image

    ###################
    image
    image
    image
  • I can't see it either. It's a little strange at first. Also be aware that the front end is very low and is easily hung up on concrete stops that are at the end of parking spaces or curbs if you are pulling in to a spot nose first.

    I just was more cautious at first, probably staying a little further back than I had to. After a while you just get a sense of where that front end is at. I understand your concern though and as others have said, a lot of cars just don't give you that reference point anymore. As a matter of fact turn around and look back and see if you can see your trunk lid. Very few cars give you that view either, yet you do learn to approximate.

    Jack
  • I just got home and read all your messages. I did go out and drive the car again and
    feel a lot more confident. Thanks to you all for your input and advice and for letting me know that it's not just because I'm short (5 feet) that I can't see over the hood. I've been driving the same car (Ford Escort) for 11years so I know things have changed. The tips on parking were very helpful. If anyone has some more please let me know. There seem to be a lot of very nice people on this site.
  • Sourthern California

    price - 16564

    mud guard - 179 (I know, daylight robbery)
    truck tray - 179

    Vehicle Theft R - 399.99 (should not buy it)

    6yr/100000mi extended warranty - 1593 (most of people said it is uesless)

    Doc fee - 55
    TTL - 206.75

    Tax - 1259.76
Sign In or Register to comment.